Hidden metal corrosion is a silent body killer that is often discovered too late, when the rust has already eaten right through the metal. Thresholds are one of the most vulnerable areas of any car, as they are constantly exposed to aggressive moisture, reagents and mechanical impacts from gravel. Usage cannon fat for the preservation of these elements is considered a classic, time-tested method, which is often superior in efficiency to modern diluted anticorrosion agents.
This material is a thick, ointment-like mass of yellow or light brown color, consisting of a mixture of oxidized petroleum oil, ceresin, paraffin and various additives. Its key feature is its ability to maintain elasticity over a wide range of temperatures, without cracking in the cold or dripping in the heat. The operating temperature range of high-quality cannon lard is from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius, which makes it an ideal choice for Russian climatic conditions.
Self-processing allows you not only to save a significant amount compared to specialized services, but also to be confident in the quality of the work performed. You don't need to be a professional bodybuilder to apply this preservative, but the process requires careful surface preparation and adherence to technology. In this article we will analyze all stages of work, from the selection of tools to the final processing of hidden cavities.
Advantages and features of cannon lard
The main advantage of this anticorrosive agent is its exceptional adhesion to metal and its ability to self-tighten. If a scratch or chip forms on the coating, the thick mass prevents corrosion from spreading, and when heated in the sun, it can “spread” a little, tightening the damaged area. This property makes cannon fat a much more reliable protector than bitumen mastics, which harden and crack over time.
The material is inert to the effects of salts, acids and alkalis, which are present in abundance on roads in winter. It creates a durable hydrophobic film that completely blocks the access of oxygen and moisture to the metal surface. Unlike drying compounds, this preservative remains in a semi-liquid state for decades, providing constant lubrication and protection.
However, it is worth considering some features of working with this substance. High viscosity requires preheating before application, which complicates the process in the cold season. In addition, the material is difficult to wash off from clothing or skin, so work must be carried out in special protective equipment.
- 🛡️ Forms a durable, non-drying layer that lasts up to 10 years or more.
- 🌡️ Maintains elasticity at extremely low temperatures without cracking.
- 💧 Excellently displaces moisture and protects against electrochemical corrosion.
- 💰 Affordable cost compared to modern synthetic analogues.
⚠️ Attention: Cannon lard is not an independent rust converter. It is pointless to apply it over active corrosion without first stripping and treating it with a neutralizer - the rotting process will continue under the film.
Necessary tools and preparation of materials
For high-quality processing, you will need not only the anticorrosive agent itself, but also a specific set of tools that allows you to heat and apply the viscous mass to hard-to-reach places. The main working tool will be syringe gun or a specialized heated gun, although in garage conditions ordinary construction hair dryers and large-volume medical syringes are often used.
It is important to prepare solvents in advance for degreasing the surface. White spirit, Galosh gasoline or special alcohol-based degreasers are best suited. The use of acetone is not recommended as it can aggressively damage some factory plastics and rubbers if it gets on them.
To heat the material, you will need a container that is resistant to high temperatures and a heat source. An electric stove or gas burner with a divider is ideal, but you can also use a hair dryer if you heat the composition directly in the working container. Do not heat lard over an open fire without supervision - it is a fire hazard.
For convenient application into hidden cavities, purchase a set of plastic nozzle tubes of different lengths and diameters. You can buy them in hardware stores or make them yourself from droppers.
List of required equipment:
- 🔥 Heating source (stove, burner or powerful hair dryer).
- 💉 Syringe gun or construction syringe with a volume of 150-200 ml.
- 🧪 Solvent for degreasing and cleaning tools.
- 🧤 Protective gloves, glasses and respirator.
- 🔧 A set of drill bits and a drill for accessing hidden cavities.
Technology for preparing thresholds for processing
The quality of anti-corrosion treatment depends 90% on surface preparation. If applied cannon fat there will be no effect on dirt or loose rust. First of all, the car must be thoroughly washed, paying special attention to the arches and the lower part of the sills. To remove stubborn dirt and bitumen stains, use special cleaners or kerosene.
After washing and drying, troubleshooting should be carried out. All areas of corrosion must be mechanically cleaned to bare metal. To do this, use sandpaper, wire brushes or drill bits. If the rust is already through, more serious body repairs will be required with holes welded before starting preservation.
The cleaned areas must be treated with a rust converter if micro-foci of oxidation remain, and the surface must be degreased. Degreasing is a critically important step, since a greasy film will prevent the anti-corrosion agent from adhering to the metal. Wipe the surface with a rag soaked in solvent until the fabric stops getting dirty.
☑️ Surface preparation
To access the internal cavities of the thresholds, it is often necessary to drill technological holes. This must be done carefully, using metal drills, and immediately after processing, close the holes with rubber plugs or weld them.
The process of applying anticorrosive coating to external surfaces
Before application, the material must be heated to operating temperature, which is usually 80-90 degrees Celsius. At the same time, it becomes liquid, like sunflower oil, and easily penetrates microcracks. It is better to heat in a water bath or very carefully on the stove, stirring constantly to avoid local overheating and boiling.
Apply heated cannon fat on external surfaces (bottom of thresholds, arches) it is most convenient to use a brush with stiff bristles or a brush. This allows the composition to be rubbed into the metal, ensuring maximum filling of the pores. The layer should be uniform, without gaps, but also without thick deposits that can drain when heated.
If you are using a spray gun for external work, choose a nozzle with a fan spray. The jet should be directed at an angle so that the composition lies in an even layer. After application, the material must be given time to cool and polymerize, although complete drying as such does not occur - it simply thickens.
| Parameter | Meaning/Description | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Heating temperature | 80-90 °C | Do not bring to a boil |
| Viscosity upon application | Like sunflower oil | Control visually |
| Coating service life | 5-10 years | Depends on operating conditions |
| Material consumption | 0.3-0.5 kg per threshold | Depends on area and condition |
Treatment of hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places
The most important part of the job is protecting the internal cavity of the threshold, where corrosion most often begins due to condensation. For this purpose, special long nozzles on the syringe gun are used. The technology is simple: the nozzle is inserted into the technological hole until it stops, and when slowly removed, the composition is sprayed or squeezed out.
It is important to ensure that the entire cavity is filled, not just part of it. When working with a syringe, it is necessary to control the pressure of the piston so that the stream is not too strong and does not splash the material around, forming voids. It is optimal to fill the volume by 60-70%, since when heated in the sun, the material will expand and be distributed evenly.
For hard-to-reach corners and hidden reinforcements, the wicking method can be used. To do this, a metal rod or wire is dipped into a heated composition and problem areas are lubricated, or thin tubes are used to supply the material to a specific point. Cannon fat It has excellent fluidity when heated and will flow into the right places on its own.
⚠️ Attention: When drilling access holes, make sure there are no wiring harnesses or fuel pipes on the back of the sill wall. Use a mirror or endoscope for control.
What to do if you don’t have a syringe gun?
If there is no special equipment, you can use a large medical syringe with a long needle (without a needle, with a straw) or even a watering can with a long nose. In this case, the material is heated directly in the container into which the instrument is dipped, or heated in small portions in a mug. It takes longer, but is effective.
Common mistakes and safety precautions
One of the most common mistakes is applying cold or insufficiently heated material. In this case cannon fat lies in clumps, does not penetrate microcracks and quickly peels off at the first mechanical impact. The consistency should be exactly liquid, like butter.
The second mistake is ignoring degreasing. Many people think that greasy anticorrosive will fall on any surface, but this is not so. Dirt and oil film create a barrier, and under a layer of protection the metal will continue to rot. It is also dangerous to overheat the composition above 100 degrees - it may lose its properties or burst into flames.
Safety precautions when working with hot oil products are mandatory. Wear thick rubber gloves, protect your eyes from possible splashes with goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area. Vapors from solvents and heated oil are toxic.
- 🚫 Do not apply the material to a wet surface - the water will remain under the film.
- 🚫 Don’t skimp on solvent when degreasing.
- 🚫 Do not leave an open fire source unattended when heating.
- 🚫 Don’t forget to close the technological holes after processing.
The main secret of durability is not so much the material itself, but careful preparation of the surface and high-quality degreasing before application.
Coating care and service life
Properly applied cannon fat does not require complex care. It is not washed off with water and withstands high pressure washers. However, once every 1-2 years it is recommended to carry out a visual inspection of the treated areas, especially after the winter season. If you notice mechanical damage to the coating on external elements, they can be locally renewed by heating a small area with a hairdryer.
The service life of the coating inside the thresholds is practically unlimited and can reach 10-15 years, since there is no ultraviolet radiation and mechanical abrasion. On external parts (bottom, arches) the period can be reduced to 3-5 years due to the abrasive effects of sand and stones.
To remove excess grease from the body or glass (if they accidentally get dirty), use gasoline, kerosene or special bitumen stain cleaners. Plain water won't help here. Regular car washing in winter helps to wash away aggressive reagents, extending the life of any anticorrosive agent.
⚠️ Attention: Material characteristics and environmental requirements may change. Before purchasing a specific brand of gun lard, check its composition and certificates of conformity with the manufacturer's official sources to ensure it is safe to use for your body type.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to mix cannon lard with other anticorrosives?
Mix cannon fat It is not recommended to use bitumen mastics, as they may have different chemical bases and poorly compatible additives, which will lead to peeling of the coating. However, harder protective compounds are often applied over gun fat for external stone protection, but only after the underlying layer has completely polymerized.
At what temperature is it best to process?
The optimal ambient temperature for work is from +10 to +25 degrees Celsius. Under such conditions, the material cools more slowly, having time to distribute evenly and flow into all the cracks. It is extremely difficult to work in the cold: the metal is cold, the composition will quickly cool, and adhesion will be worse.
Is gun lard harmful to rubber seals?
Qualitative cannon fat inert to rubber and plastic, it is even useful for them, as it prevents drying out. However, some cheap analogues may contain aggressive solvents. Before mass processing, test the reaction of the material on a small, inconspicuous area of rubber.
Do I need to remove old gun fat before re-processing?
If the old coating holds tightly and does not have swelling or peeling, there is no need to completely remove it. It is enough to wash the surface, degrease and apply a new layer on top of the old one. Fresh material will dissolve the top layer of the old one and create a monolithic protection.