Restoring the paint coating of the car is a task that requires not only artistic taste, but also deep technical knowledge. The slightest deviation in the shade or structure of the enamel is immediately striking, especially on large planes of the body or under direct sunlight. That is why the question of how to choose the paint on the car, becomes paramount for any owner planning a local or complete repair.
The modern industry offers many solutions, from finished aerosols to complex computer coloring, but the success of the event depends on the accuracy of the initial data. To make a mistake in choosing the type of pigment or application technology means to get a result that will differ from the factory, reducing the market value of the machine. In this article, we will analyze all the stages of the process, from the search for factory codes to the nuances of mixing components.
The first thing that the master faces is the need to identify the original color. Manufacturers use complex coding systems that can vary depending on the year of model release and even the month of production. Understanding these nuances avoids expensive alterations and ensures that the selected enamel will perfectly match the rest of the body parts.
Search for factory paint code
Any professional painting begins with a search. factory-code (color code) It is a unique combination of numbers and letters that indicates the specific recipe for the mixture used in the manufacture of your car. Without this code, even the most experienced colorist will pick up the hue by pumping, which rarely leads to a perfect result.
The location of the code plate depends on the make and model of the vehicle. Most often, manufacturers place this information in the hood space, on door racks or in the luggage compartment. It is important not to confuse the sign with the VIN number, although sometimes they can be nearby.
Take a picture of the color code when you buy a car and save the photo in the cloud. This will save you in case of loss of documents or erase the paint from the sign itself.
On some premium cars, the code can be duplicated in a service book or on a special sticker inside the gas tank hatch. If you can’t find the marking visually, it’s worth looking at official dealer catalogs using the VIN code of the body.
- 🚗 European cars: Often have a code on the driver's door rack or in the spare wheel niche.
- 🇯🇵 Japanese stamps: Usually place the sign in the hood space, closer to the firewall.
- 🇺🇸 Americans: The code is often located on the central pillar of the body from the driver's side.
- 🇰🇷 Korean brands: They may be marked under the hood or on the inside of the trunk lid.
It is worth considering that over time, the tablets fade, become dirty or peel off. In such cases, the paint code on the car has to be searched through online directories by VIN code, which is a more reliable, but less fast way.
Recruitment technologies: computer coloring and fan catalogs
After receiving the code, the selection technology comes into play. There are two main approaches: using ready-made fan-catalogue (RAL, NCS, Mobihel) and computer coloring. The first method is suitable for old cars or versatile colors, where small deviations are allowed.
Computer coloring is a modern quality standard. Specialty software contains thousands of recipes for different brands and years of release. The colorist enters the paint code and the system calculates the exact proportions of the pigments, binder and solvent. This is especially important for complex colors such as “metallic” or “pearl”.
⚠️ Warning: Never rely solely on visual color comparisons on a monitor screen or in a printed catalog. Pigments can change shade depending on the lighting and viewing angle.
The mixing process requires high precision and the use of professional scales. Even a fraction of a gram of excess pigment can change the shade, making the repair spot noticeable. Therefore, for serious work it is better to contact specialized studios, where there is equipment for spectrophotometric analysis.
Types of car enamels and their features
The choice of enamel type directly affects the application technology and the final result. Different. chemical They require different solvents, drying temperatures and number of layers. The wrong choice of paint type can lead to defects such as shashawns, craters or even peeling off the coating.
The most common today are acrylic enamel of the type "base coating + varnish". They provide excellent color depth and resistance to external influences. However, retro cars or specific repairs may require single-component or alkyd paints.
| Type of enamel | Composition | Resilience | Application |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acrylic (2K) | Base + hardener | Tall. | Body repairs, full paint. |
| Nitrocellulosic | single-component | Low. | Retro car, small elements |
| Alkyd (ML) | Thermoactive | Medium | Factory paint, frames |
| Water-soluble | Water-based | Tall. | Environmentally friendly (requires a specialist). equipment |
Special attention should be paid to the effects added to the paint. Metallics contain aluminum powder, mother of pearl mica, and chameleons contain special pigments that change color. Selection of such colors is more difficult, since it is important not only to guess the color of the base, but also to correctly adjust the size and orientation of the particles.
When working with water-soluble paints, which are becoming standard in Europe, it is critical to observe the temperature and humidity in the paint chamber. Unlike solvent analogues, they are more sensitive to environmental conditions.
Accounting for burnout and age of coverage
One of the main problems that masters face is paint-burning In a car. Even the most accurate computer selection of code can fail if the body of the car was operated for several years under the scorching sun. Pigments are destroyed by ultraviolet light, and the actual color of the car is different from the factory standard.
In such cases, blindly following the recipe from the program will cause the new part to be brighter or darker than the others. Professionals always conduct test colors and compare them with the current state of the body, making adjustments to the recipe. This process is called “color binding.”
Why does the paint burn out unevenly?
Horizontal surfaces (roof, hood) burn out faster than vertical ones (doors, wings). In addition, plastic elements (bumpers) often have a different shade from nature, even when they are new.
To minimize the difference in shades, the “blending” method is often used. Paint is applied not only to the repaired element, but also goes to neighboring parts, creating a smooth gradient. This allows you to hide the micro-difference in shades, making it invisible to the human eye.
If the car has a large mileage, sometimes it makes sense to reshape the entire side or even the entire car to avoid patchiness. Local painting on a badly burned out car is always a compromise between cost and the perfect appearance.
Tools and conditions for accurate selection
Quality results are impossible without the right equipment. In addition to a computer with databases, a colorist is required. spectrophotometersHigh-precision scales and a set of reference colors. In garage conditions, achieving factory accuracy is almost impossible.
The most important condition is lighting. Color assessment shall be performed in daylight or under special lamps with a color reproduction index CRI > 90. A regular incandescent lamp or a cheap LED can distort the perception of shades, especially gray and beige tones.
☑️ Pre-mixing check
The viscosity of the paint must also be taken into account. It is regulated by the addition of a solvent, the amount of which depends on the temperature in the room and the method of application (prestos, brush, airbrush). Too thick paint will lie down with a shaking, and liquid can flow.
Don't forget about the filtering. After mixing, the components must be strained through a funnel with a mesh filter to remove lumps and dust. Getting garbage in the paint port can ruin all the work.
Frequent mistakes in self-selection
Trying to save money, motorists often make mistakes that ultimately cost more than a professional service. The most common of them is buying paint “by eye” or by the name of the color (for example, simply “black” or “white”). Each manufacturer can have dozens of shades of the same color.
Another mistake is ignoring the need to buy a varnish and hardener complete with the base. Buying components from different brands can lead to chemical incompatibility: the paint can curl up, not dry out, or swell after a month.
⚠️ Note: Do not mix paints from different manufacturers in the same can. Chemical formulas of solvents and resins can react in unpredictable ways.
Another risk is the use of old paint. Even in a closed jar, enamel can dissect or thicken over time. Before use, be sure to check the date of production and consistency of the material.
Independent selection of paint is justified only for hidden elements or cars that do not require an ideal cosmetic appearance. For visible parts of the body, it is better to trust professionals.
And finally, many people forget about surface preparation. Even a perfectly selected paint will not stay on a greasy, rusty or glossy surface. Printing and degreasing are mandatory stages, without which the selection of color loses meaning.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can you pick up paint only by VIN code without a sign?
Yeah, it's possible. The VIN code contains information about the complete set of the car, including the paint code installed at the factory. This information can be obtained from the official dealer or through specialized online services for decrypting VIN.
Why is the new bumper different in color from the body, if the paint code is the same?
Plastic and metal absorb and reflect light differently. In addition, factory paint on plastic is often applied using a different technology and may have a slightly different shade. Usually, you need to grind the color or paint with a transition.
How long is the diluted paint stored?
Diluted paint with hardener (2K) retains its properties from 2 to 24 hours depending on the temperature and type of activator. After this time, it begins to thicken and becomes unsuitable for high-quality painting.
Do I need to buy a separate varnish for metallic?
Yes, the base "metallic" has no gloss and protection. It is necessarily covered with a layer of transparent acrylic varnish. Without varnish, the pigment will quickly oxidize, fade and wear off.