Full painting of the car body with your own hands begins with a thorough cleaning of the old paintwork to metal and degreasing the surface with solvent. Ignoring the corrosion removal step or poor-quality grinding will cause the new paint to swell or peel off after a few months of operation. It is the quality of the preparation foundation 90% of the success of the whole work, not so much the brand of enamel.
The process requires a compressor, spray gun and, preferably, a separate room where there is no dust. Before mixing components, it is necessary to check the compatibility of materials: putty, primer and enamel should be one chemical basis, for example, acrylic. If you plan to use it metallic or mother-of-pearlThe application technology will differ from working with ordinary acrylic enamel by the presence of an additional layer of varnish.
The first stage of work involves dismantling all removable elements: handles, moldings, headlights and mirrors. This allows you to qualitatively process the ends of the parts and avoid sharp color transitions at the joints. Painting tape and cover paper or special film are used to protect the glass and rubber seals.
Selection of materials and necessary equipment
For quality work, it is not enough to simply buy a can of paint; you will need a full set of tools and consumables. The main instrument is spray-shoot (pulverizer), which shall have the torch and the feeding of the material adjusted. Cheap models are often spitting, leaving a shaver, so it is better to choose a professional tool with a duse of 1.3-1.5 mm for the base and 1.6-1.8 mm for the ground.
The second critical element is the air conditioning system. The compressor must provide stable pressure, and the presence of water-separator I'll be sure. Getting even microscopic drops of oil or condensate in the paint will lead to a defect that cannot be corrected locally. Also, you will need grinders with different eccentric strokes and a set of sandpaper graduation from P80 to P2000.
- 🛠️ Putty (Universal and with fiberglass for deep dents).
- 🧪 Degreaser (antisilicone) for final cleaning before painting.
- 🎭 Respirator. with carbon filters to protect the respiratory system from solvent vapor.
- 🌡️ Thermometer and a hygrometer to monitor conditions in the paint chamber.
⚠️ Warning: Never use gasoline or acetone as a degreasing agent for painting. They may leave a greasy film or react with materials, causing coating defects. Use only specialized antisilicones.
When choosing a varnish, pay attention to its hardness. For body elements subject to frequent washing and abrasive effects, two-component high-hardness varnishes (HS) are better suited. They give a deep shine and better hold polish in the future.
Buy all materials (soil, paint, varnish, solvent) of one manufacturer. This ensures their chemical compatibility and predictable drying results.
Body preparation: spatula and grinding
Surface preparation is the most time-consuming stage that determines the geometry of the body. If there are corrosion pockets on the metal, they must be completely cleaned to pure metal, possibly using a rust converter if corrosion cannot be removed mechanically. Then the primary soil (phosphate) is applied to protect against oxidation.
Application putty It takes skill. Mix the base with the hardener must be strictly according to the instructions, usually in the proportion of 2-3% of the hardener. An excess of hardener will make the putty fragile, and the lack will not allow it to polymerize. Apply the mixture across the scratches left by a large abrasive to drive air out of the pores.
Grinding of the putty is made gradually, changing the gradation of the abrasive. Start with P80 or P120 to level the terrain, then switch to P180-P240 to remove the drawings. It is important to constantly use a powder or spray to see the “pits” and “mounds”. A flat surface is the guarantee that the glossy paint will not be visible "lens" and distortion.
- 📉 Use a grinding bar to control the plane, do not grind your fingers.
- 💨 Blow the dust with compressed air after each step of grinding.
- 👁️ Check the surface with the lamp side light to detect defects.
Surface submersible of the vehicle
After grinding of the emplaced places and leveling of the whole body, acrylic soil-filler is applied. Its task is to fill the small risks from P240-P320 sandpaper and create the perfect adhesive base for the paint. The soil is applied in 2-3 wet layers with interlayer exposure specified in the technical sheet (usually 10-15 minutes).
It is important not to “overflow” the soil to avoid undercurrents, but also not to make the coating too dry, otherwise risks will appear. After complete polymerization (usually 12-24 hours at 20°C), the ground surface must be ground. For this purpose, abrasive P400-P500 for acrylic enamel and P600-P800 for metallics and bases with varnish are used.
Final wipe. antisilicone It's mandatory before painting. You need to wipe with two napkins: the first, moistened in solution, apply the composition, the second, dry, immediately remove the remains and divorces. Movements should be reciprocal so as not to smear pollution on the surface.
| Materials | Gradation of abrasive (dry grinding) | Drying time at 20°C | Purpose of grinding |
|---|---|---|---|
| Putty | P80 - P180 | 20-30 minutes | Geometry alignment |
| Sound filler | P400 - P500 | 12:24 hours. | Removal of shaven, preparation for enamel |
| Old paint (matiation) | P800 - P1000 | N/D | Creating adhesion for local repair |
| Lacquer (polishing) | P1500 - P3000 | 24 hours. | Removal of defects, preparation for gloss |
⚠️ Note: If you dry the soil or paint forcibly (with a heat gun or an IR emitter), do not exceed the temperature of 60 ° C. Overheating can lead to boiling of the solvent and the appearance of craters or bubbles.
Secrets of working with the soil
For better filling of the drawings, the first layer of soil can be applied "wet" on a special binder soil (adhesion promoter), but only if it is allowed by the technical regulations of the material manufacturer.
Paint and lacquer technology
The painting process itself requires cleanliness and proper equipment setting. The pressure at the outlet of the spray gun is usually 2.5-3 atmospheres, but the exact value depends on the viscosity of the paint. Before applying to the body, be sure to make a test "shot" on the card to check the torch and the absence of spitting.
Basic paint (metallic, mother of pearl or monotony) is applied in 2-3 layers. The first layer is thin, "nailed", it creates adhesion. The subsequent layers are applied more saturatedly, with an overlap of 50%. Between the layers, an exposure "for mattness" (10-15 minutes) is required. If the second layer is applied too early, the metal can boil (burst).
After drying the base (usually 20-30 minutes, it should become matte) is applied varnish. Lacquer is put in 2 layers. The first layer is thin, rubbing. The second layer is wet, glossy. It is the second layer that gives depth and shine. Move the spray gun quickly and evenly, starting the movement before the trigger is pressed and ending after the passage of the part.
- 🌀 Keep the gun strictly perpendicular to the surface at a distance of 15-20 cm.
- ⏱️ Observe the drying time intervals indicated on the can with the material.
- 🌬️ Provide good ventilation, but without drafts that raise dust.
The main secret of a flat layer is the speed of the hand. It should be permanent. Stopping even for a split second will cause a flow to form.
Drying, polishing and elimination of defects
Full polymerization of the paint coating takes from a few days to several weeks. Although the paint dries in an hour, it will take a long time to gain the final hardness. In the first days, it is better not to wash and not operate in dusty conditions. Drying at 60°C speeds up the process and increases the hardness of the coating.
After complete drying, small defects often appear: “dust”, “orange peel” (shagrin) or matteness. Removing them by method polishing. First, the surface is polished with water with abrasive P1500-P2000 to align the shaking, then P2500-P3000 to remove the mattage.
The final stage is polishing with pastes. First, a rough paste is used to remove the drawings from the sandpaper, then a finishing paste to give a deep gloss. Work with a polishing machine should be careful, without overheating the varnish, especially on the sharp edges of the body, where the paint layer is thinner.
⚠️ Warning: When polishing the edges of the doors and hood, be extremely careful. There, the layer of lacquer is minimal and it is very easy to wipe to metal or base paint, which will require repainting of the part.
☑️ Checklist before polishing
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One of the most common mistakes is saving on solvent and using an inappropriate diluent. This leads to the fact that the paint lies “stepping”, does not spread or, conversely, gives stains. Also, beginners often forget to heat the paint to room temperature before mixing, which changes its viscosity.
Insufficient surface preparation leads to peeling of the coating (breaking) together with the old varnish or soil. This happens if there is silicone, oil or moisture on the surface. Another mistake is the incorrect setting of the spray gun torch, which causes the paint to fall in stripes.
Dust in the paint room is the scourge of garage craftsmen. To minimize its amount, before painting the room must be plentifully moistened (spray water from the spray on the walls and floor) to nail the dust, and let it settle. It also helps to use a sticky napkin (tak-wipe) just before applying each layer.
- 🌡️ Do not paint on cold metal (below 15°C) without heating the room.
- 💧 Avoid high humidity (above 80%), this causes blurring of the varnish.
- 🧹 Clean the room carefully before starting work.
What do we do with the leaks?
If you notice the leak immediately, do not try to wipe it. Let the varnish dry (1-2 hours), carefully cut the flow with a blade, and after full drying (after a day) grind and polish this area.
Can I paint the car with a regular spray paint?
Theoretically possible, but the quality will be much lower than from the spray gun. Aerosols give a large shavern and have a small resource. This method is suitable only for spot repair of chipped or painting small plastic elements, but not for a complete repainting of the body.
How many layers of varnish do you need to apply?
Optimally apply 2 layers of varnish. The first is a thin binder, the second is the main wet. The three layers only make sense if you plan to polish deeply in the future, but this increases the risk of undercurrents.
How to dilute the paint if it is too thick?
Use only the solvent recommended by the paint manufacturer (usually included or specified in the instructions). Add it in small portions (5-10%) and mix thoroughly, checking the viscosity with a viscometer or experimentally on the test surface.
Do I need to remove the old paint completely to metal?
Not always. If the old coating is strong, has no bloating and is compatible with new materials, it can simply be wrapped (made matte) with abrasive P600-P800 and covered with soil. Complete removal to metal is required only in the presence of corrosion or serious defects.
At what temperature can you paint a car?
The optimal temperature for painting is from +18 ° C to +22 ° C. At lower temperatures, the paint dries longer and may not spread, forming a shaking. At high temperatures (>25°C), the solvent evaporates too quickly, which can lead to mattiness and porosity of the coating.