Gun lard is a legendary anti-corrosion compound, proven over decades of use in the harshest conditions. Originally developed to protect artillery pieces from rust, today it has become an indispensable tool for car owners seeking to reliably protect the body, underbody and hidden cavities of the car. But how to properly apply this thick preservative so that it works effectively and does not harm the paintwork?

Unlike modern liquid anticorrosion agents, gun lard forms a dense film that not only blocks the access of moisture to the metal, but also displaces existing corrosion. However, its high viscosity and specific composition require a special approach to application. In this article we will look at step-by-step processing technology, we will reveal the secrets of surface preparation, compare cannon fat with popular analogues such as Molykote or Tectyl, and we will warn you against typical mistakes that ruin all your efforts.

What is cannon lard and why is it better than modern anticorrosion agents?

Cannon fat (official name: conservation lubricant GOST 19537-83) is a plastic material based on petroleum oils thickened with soaps of higher fatty acids. Its uniqueness lies in its ability displace water from metal surfaces at the molecular level, while most modern anticorrosion agents only create a barrier layer. This makes it an ideal solution for processing:

  • 🚗 Car underbody - protects against salt, sand and chemicals;
  • 🔧 Hidden cavities (thresholds, side members, arches) - penetrates into microcracks;
  • 🔩 Threaded connections — prevents “sticking” of bolts;
  • 🛠️ Tools and spare parts during long-term storage.

Compared to liquid mastics (for example, Noxudol or Dinitrol), cannon fat does not drain over time and does not require annual renewal. However, it also has disadvantages: difficulty in applying to vertical surfaces and the need to warm up before use. Key advantage - price: a 1 kg jar costs 3–5 times less than imported analogues with comparable efficiency.

⚠️ Attention: Gun lard is not compatible with rubber seals and plastic parts! When it comes into contact with these materials, it causes them to swell and collapse. Always cover such elements with masking tape before processing.

Preparing the vehicle: what needs to be done before application?

The effectiveness of gun lard depends 70% on the quality of surface preparation. Neglecting this step leads to the fact that the lubricant spreads unevenly or does not adhere to the rust at all. Here mandatory checklist before processing:

Washing the body with removal of bitumen stains and road chemicals | Drying with compressed air or in a warm box (humidity < 10%) | Removing rust mechanically (brush, sandpaper) or chemically (converter) | Degreasing the surface with white spirit or solvent 646 | Sealing rubber seals and plastic with masking tape-->

Pay special attention to hidden cavities. To clean them use:

  • 🧹 Flexible brushes on an extension for thresholds;
  • 💨 Sandblasting machine (for severe corrosion);
  • 🔥 Industrial hair dryer for drying hard-to-reach places.

If there are traces of old mastic on the metal, remove them with a special remover for bitumen coatings (for example, Body 700). Gun lard does not adhere well to greasy or silicone surfaces. To check the degree of cleaning, run a clean cloth over the metal - there should be no traces left on it.

Sandpaper|Wireless brush|Sandblaster|Chemical converter|Do not remove-->

Application technology: step-by-step instructions with nuances

Cannon lard is sold in cans in a solid state, so it needs to be heated before use. Optimum temperature for application - 60–80°C. You can reheat:

  • 🔥 In a water bath (the safest way);
  • 🕯️ In a metal container over a gas burner (be careful not to overheat!);
  • 🔌 In the microwave (only in glass containers, at short intervals of 20 seconds).

For application use:

Processing area Tool Layer thickness Drying time
Bottom Wide brush or roller 0.5–1 mm 24 hours
Thresholds, side members Flexible spatula or spray gun 0.3–0.5 mm 12–18 hours
Threaded connections Brush with stiff bristles Thin layer 6–8 hours
Hidden cavities Extension wand with spray nozzle 0.2–0.3 mm 48 hours (due to poor ventilation)

Key application rules:

  1. Start with the most difficult to reach places (cavities, welds).
  2. Apply lard cross movements for even coverage.
  3. For vertical surfaces (such as arches), add lard 10–15% solvent to reduce viscosity.
  4. After treatment, let the car stand in a warm room. 1–2 days before use.
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To treat thresholds without dismantling the trim, use a medical syringe with an extended tube. Heat the lard to a liquid state and carefully pour it into the technological holes.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners make mistakes when working with cannon fat, which negate all its benefits. Here are the most common:

⚠️ Attention: Never apply gun fat to wet metal or over old mastic! This leads to the formation of bubbles and peeling of the coating after 2-3 months. If you are not sure that the surface is dry, use humidity indicator (sold in HVAC stores).
  • 🌡️ Overheating of lard (>100°C) leads to destruction of its structure and loss of protective properties. The optimal temperature is when the lard becomes fluid, but does not boil.
  • 🖌️ Using dirty brushes — even small dust particles spoil adhesion. Rinse the tool with white spirit after each layer.
  • 🚫 Processing in a cold garage (below +10°C). The lard thickens and does not penetrate microcracks. Use a heat gun to warm up the treatment area.
  • ⏳ Too thick layer (>1.5 mm) does not have time to polymerize and remains sticky for years. It is better to apply 2 thin layers with an interval of 12 hours.

Another critical mistake is ignoring technological holes in the back. Many car owners seal them after treatment, but this leads to the accumulation of condensation inside. Leave the holes open or install vented plugs (for example, from 3M).

What to do if the lard does not harden?

If the cannon fat remains sticky 24 hours after application, this means that:

1) It was overheated during heating (temperature exceeded 100°C);

2) The composition contains excess water or solvent;

3) Treatment was carried out at temperatures below +5°C.

Solution: remove the uncured layer with a solvent and reapply, following the technology.

To understand whether it is worth choosing cannon lard instead of modern products, let’s compare it with the most common anticorrosive agents according to key parameters:

Parameter Cannon fat Molykote (ML) Tectyl (ML) Noxudol 700
Protection period 5–7 years 3–5 years 4–6 years 2–3 years
Salt resistance ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ⭐⭐⭐⭐ ⭐⭐⭐
Ease of application ⭐⭐ (requires warming up) ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (aerosol) ⭐⭐⭐ (liquid consistency) ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (brush/roller)
Price for 1 kg ~300 rub. ~1200 rub. ~1500 rub. ~900 rub.
Compatible with paintwork No (for metal only) Yes Yes Partially

Cannon fat wins by durability and price, but loses in ease of use. It is advisable to use it for:

  • 🚜 Trucks and SUVs operated in difficult conditions;
  • 🔧 Repair workwhen you need to preserve a part for a long time;
  • 💰 Budget processing large areas (for example, trailers, frames).

For passenger cars with a galvanized body, it is better to choose Tectyl or Molykote — they do not spoil the factory coating and are easier to apply to vertical surfaces.

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Gun lard is the best choice for treating bare metal (after sandblasting) or hidden cavities. For external surfaces with paintwork, modern wax or rubber based mastics are preferred.

How to remove cannon fat if necessary?

Despite its durability, it is sometimes necessary to remove gun grease - for example, before welding or painting. It is almost impossible to do this mechanically (by scraping) due to its plasticity. Effective ways:

  1. Solvents:
    • White spirit (exposure time - 10–15 minutes);
    • Solvent 646 (more aggressive, effective in 5 minutes);
    • Special washes (for example, Body 700 Off).
  • Thermal method: heat the surface with a hair dryer until 80–100°C - the lard will soften and can be removed with a rag.
  • Sandblasting: a radical method for heavily soiled parts.

    • For hidden cavities use steam generator: Direct a stream of hot steam into the hole, then rinse with solvent. Repeat the procedure until completely removed. After cleaning, be sure to dry the metal and apply a new protective layer.

    ⚠️ Attention: Do not use gasoline or kerosene to remove gun grease! These substances leave a greasy film that impairs the adhesion of new mastic or paint. After using solvents, rinse the surface antisilicon (for example, APP W99).

    Frequently asked questions about cannon lard

    Is it possible to apply gun lard to a galvanized body?

    Yes, but only if the zinc coating is intact. Gun lard does not react with zinc, but if there are exposed areas of metal (for example, after welding), it will protect them from corrosion. For solid galvanized surfaces, it is better to use specialized compounds such as Zinc Rich Primer.

    How long does it take for cannon lard to dry at +5°C?

    At low temperatures, the polymerization time increases by 3–4 times. If at +20°C lard hardens in 24 hours, then at +5°C you will need 4–5 days. To speed up the process, use a heat gun or infrared heater aimed at the treated area (distance of at least 1 m).

    Is it possible to paint over gun fat?

    No, it's pointless. Gun lard is not compatible with most automotive paints and primers. If you need to paint a part after treatment, the grease must be completely removed with a solvent, then degrease the surface and apply epoxy primer for metal insulation.

    How often should the layer of cannon fat be renewed?

    When applied correctly to closed surfaces (for example, inside thresholds), lard retains its properties for up to 7 years. For open areas (bottom, arches) it is recommended to inspect every 2–3 years and local renewal of damaged areas. Complete reprocessing is required only when pockets of corrosion appear.

    Are there any analogues of gun lard in aerosol cans?

    Yes, but they are inferior in protective properties. Closest analogues:

    • Liqui Moly Wachs-Konservierer (wax preservative lubricant);
    • CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor (for hidden cavities);
    • Valve Movil with rust converter (budget option).

    These products are easier to apply, but they last for a maximum of 2–3 seasons.