Painting restoration is a process that requires jewelry precision. Even a microscopic divergence in shade can spoil the appearance of the entire body, turning quality repairs into a mosaic of different tones. That's why the search is paint-code This is the first and most critical step before ordering materials. Without this figure, even an experienced colorist cannot guarantee 100% color matching.
Many owners mistakenly believe that it is enough to simply name the color in the catalog, for example, "black mother of pearl" or "silver metallic". However, the same factory color could come in dozens of different variations over the years. Car manufacturers The chemical composition of pigments is constantly changing, so the visual definition does not work here. In this article, we will discuss in detail where to look for a factory plate, how to decipher incomprehensible symbols and avoid costly mistakes when choosing enamel.
Factory marking and its significance
Every car on the assembly line receives a unique color identifier, which is often called the "Color Identifier". paint-code RAL code (although the latter is not always true for auto enamels). This code is a combination of letters and numbers, which is recorded in the technical documentation and duplicated on special stickers or metal badges. Finding this code is the key to the original recipe for mixing components.
The location of the marking is strictly regulated for most brands, but can vary depending on the year of the model. Most often, the information is in the underhood space or on the racks of the body. It is important to understand that the nameplate can be indicated several codes: one for the body, another for the cabin, the third for the body. surface. You need to be able to distinguish them so as not to order paint for internal plastic elements.
β οΈ Warning: Never rely on visual color comparisons alone with a colorist fan in a store. Over the years of operation, factory paint fades in the sun, and a new canister, selected "by eye" according to the current state of the car, will differ from the hidden cavities of the body, where the color has been preserved original.
To find information, you may need the following tools:
- π¦ A flashlight is used to illuminate poorly visible places under the hood.
- π§Ό Wet wipe - to clean the sticker from dust and dirt.
- π± Smartphone β for photographing the nameplate and searching for code in the databases.
- π Documents on the car - sometimes the code is duplicated in the service book.
Make a high-quality photo of the nameplate with the paint code when buying a car. Over time, the sticker may fade or peel off, and the photo will be the only proof of the original color.
Where to look for paint code on popular brands
Search for cherished symbols can turn into a quest if you do not know the specifics of the specific manufacturer. European concernsVolkswagen, BMW and Mercedes generally adhere to the standards of placement in the under-hood space. However, Asian manufacturers, for example, Toyota or HyundaiThey often hide signs on the door racks or even in the trunk. Letβs look at the main locations for popular brands.
In cars of the VAG group (Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda) the code is most often on a sticker in the area of the hood lock or on the partition of the engine compartment. At BMW, look for a sign under the hood, often closer to the shock absorber glass or on the central body pillar. Japanese brands like to place information on the driver's door, on the very rack where the hinges are located. If there is nothing there, check the space under the feet of the driver or passenger.
In some cases, especially on older cars or rare models, the plate may be damaged by corrosion or not at all. Then he comes to the rescue. VIN code. Knowing it, you can contact the official dealer or use online services to decrypt the configuration. However, be careful: if the car was repainted not to factory standards, the VIN data may not correspond to the real color on the body.
Code decoding and conformity table
Once you have found the sticker, you will see a set of symbols that are not always obvious to the unprepared person. The paint code may be βLY7Cβ, β33Bβ or βG8Mβ. It is important not to confuse it with an interior code or option code. Usually next to the desired combination is marked "Color", "Paint" or "Farbe".
Below is a table with examples of notations for some popular manufacturers. Note that the same digital code for different brands can mean completely different colors.
| Make of car | Example of code | Name of the color | Type of coating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Volkswagen | LY7C | Deep Black Pearl | pearl |
| Toyota | 040 | Super White | acrylic |
| BMW | 475 | Black Sapphire | Metallic |
| Ford | UH | Oxford White | acrylic |
| Mercedes | 775 | Iridium Silver | Metallic |
For accurate identification, use specialized catalogues or paint manufacturers' websites, such as: Mobihel, Vika or Duxone. By typing the code into a search, you will get the exact name and mix recipe. Also, it is worth considering that the code may consist of the main part and an additional suffix, which indicates the year of release or manufacturer.
What if there is no code on the body?
If the sticker is destroyed by corrosion, try to find remnants of the sticker on other details, such as the inside of the trunk lid or the gas tank hatch. Sometimes a duplicate sticker glued in service centers during bodywork.
Features of search on domestic cars (Lada, UAZ)
Car owners VAZ (Lada) and UAZ were less fortunate in terms of standardization, but it is still possible to find the code. On modern models of Lada (Vesta, XRAY, Granta) the number of paint is most often stamped on a metal plate, which is mounted on a glass of shock absorber or on the central rack of the body. The information is also duplicated in the warranty card.
On older models, such as the Classic or the early Samaras, code could be written by hand in the trunk or on the back of a gas tank hatch. Simple numerical codes were often used, such as β100β for white or β600β for green. The problem is that over the decades of production, the palette changed, and one code could correspond to different shades in different years.
For accurate selection of domestic cars, it is best to use a fan of flowers Vika or MobihelNot only the code, but also the year of the car. If the code is not readable, you can use the method of computer selection, taking a sample from an inconspicuous place, for example, under the seal of the door or inside the opening.
- π Check the trunk - early VAZs often wrote code with a marker.
- π Check out the service book β dealers often type the code in there.
- π Contact the dealer β by the VIN code they can find the history of painting.
Selection of paint: computer or code?
When the code is found, the question arises: order enamel strictly by prescription or make a computer selection? Computer-assisted selection It is considered a more reliable method, especially for used cars. The mixer program takes into account not only the factory recipe, but also allows you to make adjustments if you bring a sample (gas tank cover, hatch).
A can of can or can of paint is a lottery. The factory recipe may differ from what is mixed in the color laboratory, due to differences in pigment batches. As mentioned, the paint on your car has already faded. Fresh enamel code will be brighter, creating the effect of "spotting" on the body.
β οΈ Note: When ordering paint code over the Internet, you risk receiving material that will differ in shade from the real color of your car. Always check the possibility of returning or until until the shade does not suit.
If you plan to paint the entire element (door, wing), then the paint code may be suitable, as there will be no transitions to other parts. But for local repairs (scratch, chip) computer-selection With a sample, the only right decision. The colorist mixes the composition so that it falls into the current color of your car, rather than the perfect factory standard of a decade ago.
Computer selection with the provision of a sample of the part (gas tank cover, hatch) gives 95% of the hit in color, while buying finished paint by code guarantees a match only on a new, not faded car.
Frequent errors in color determination
The most common mistake is confusion between the body color code and the cabin color code. The nameplate often has the designations "Trim" or "Upholstery", which refer to the fabric or skin of the seats. If you paint the body with paint for the cabin, the result will be deplorable, since the materials have a different chemical basis and resistance to external influences.
The second mistake is to ignore the type of coverage. Metallic, mother of pearl and acrylic (solid) require different application technologies. Pearl, for example, often consists of two or three layers (base, effect, varnish), and an error in sequence or proportion will give a dirty hue. Look closely at the designations: if there are letters at the end of the code indicating the type (for example, "M" for metallic), this should be considered.
The third mistake is trying to mix the paint yourself without the weights. The proportions in the recipe are indicated in grams, and a deviation of even 5-10 grams can change the hue. For a qualitative result, professional equipment and skills of working with coloristic scales are necessary.
βοΈ Checking before buying paint
Questions and Answers (FAQ)
Can I find the paint code only by VIN code online for free?
Completely free and accurate databases are rarely available. Official dealership systems are paid. However, there are third-party services and forums where users share transcripts. For 100% guarantee, it is better to make one paid request from a dealer or in a specialized recruitment service.
What to do if the label with the paint code is completely destroyed by rust?
In this case, only the option of computer selection remains. It is necessary to cut a small sample of paint from an inconspicuous place (under the molding, inside the opening) and take it to the laboratory. The spectral analyzer will determine the composition and select the formula.
Is the paint code for plastic bumpers different from the body?
The color code is the same, but the technology of painting plastic is different. For bumpers, special elastic additives (plasticizers) are often used to prevent the paint from being trawled when hit. When ordering, make sure that the paint is needed for plastic elements.
How long does the selected paint last?
In a closed container, high-quality car enamel can be stored from 1 to 3 years. However, the components can be layered, so before use, the can must be carefully shaken or mixed with a mixer. Metals and pearls require particularly careful mixing.