Restoring the appearance of plastic elements of the car is a task that sooner or later faces every owner. Black plastic, especially on bumpers, moldings and rapids, is exposed to aggressive ultraviolet radiation, reagents and mechanical damage. Over time, it burns out, acquiring an unsightly grayish shade, which spoils the general appearance of even a well-groomed car.
The return of deep black is possible in a variety of ways, from simple polishing to capital painting. However, it is precisely plastic-painting It provides the most enduring and professional result that will last for years. In this article, we will discuss all the stages of the process, the choice of materials and the technical nuances that must be considered to obtain the perfect coating.
Before you start working, it is important to understand that plastic It is a complex material with low adhesion. Simply applying paint without proper preparation will lead to the fact that the coating will begin to peel after the first wash. Therefore, the key to success is not so much the paint itself, but the right one. surface.
The choice of materials: how to paint black plastic
The automotive chemistry market offers many solutions for color restoration. The main difference lies in the chemical composition and purpose of the products. For a deep and durable result, specialized enamel or structural paints are most often used. It is important to choose a composition that after drying will have sufficient elasticity so as not to crack when the part is deformed.
The most popular solution is matte-blackIt imitates the factory coating of rough bumpers. It hides small defects and scratches, unlike glossy counterparts, which require a perfectly flat surface. There are also two-component formulations that require mixing with a hardener, which significantly increases the chemical resistance of the coating.
- 🎨 Aerosol cans - convenient option for local repairs and beginners, not requiring additional equipment.
- 🔧 Two-component enamel Professional choice for full repainting, ensuring maximum strength of the layer.
- 💧 Adhesive grunts - a mandatory component for any work, creating a sticky layer for adhesion of paint with a polymer.
- 🛡️ Lucky. They are used to create a glossy effect or additional protection, but can change the texture of the surface.
⚠️ Warning: Never use conventional metal paints or nitro paints without special soil. They contain aggressive solvents that can literally melt or deform parts made of soft plastic.
Preparation of surface for staining
The quality of the final result depends on 80% of the preparation. Degreasing This is the first and critically important stage. On the surface of plastic there are always silicones, oils and road dirt, which cannot be removed with ordinary water. The use of a high-quality degreasing or antisilicone is mandatory.
After cleaning, the mechanical processing step follows. Smooth plastic elements must be wrapped. For this purpose, an abrasive material with a gradation is used. P400-P600. The goal is not to remove a layer of plastic, but to create micro-scratch that will catch the soil. If the surface has deep scratches or chips, they must be pre-slapped with a special elastic composition.
☑️ Training checklist
After the matting, thorough degreasing is again carried out. It is important not to touch the prepared surface with your hands, since skin fat will instantly reduce adhesion. Compressed air or a sticky napkin can be used to remove dust. Only then is the surface ready for the application of the primary layer.
Technology of applying soil and paint
The process of coloring requires compliance with temperature and humidity. The optimal temperature for work is from +18°C before +25°C. At lower temperatures, the paint may lie unevenly or not dry, and at high temperatures - dry too quickly, forming a shaking. Before starting work, the canister or mixed composition must be heated to room temperature.
The first layer is applied archetypal. It creates an intermediate layer between the plastic and the paint. It should be applied with a thin, translucent layer, avoiding undertone. The drying time is usually 15-20 minutes, but it is better to focus on the instructions of the specific manufacturer. After drying the soil, the surface can become matte and rough - this is a normal phenomenon.
The main layer of paint is applied in 2-3 passes. The first layer is made thin, "nailed" so that the paint catches with the soil. The subsequent layers are applied more saturatedly, but without fanaticism, to avoid the formation of an "orange peel". The distance from the sprayer to the part should be 20-30 cm. Movements should be smooth and uniform, with overlapping the previous lane by 50%.
Secrets of working with an aerosol balloon
To paint lay flat, the first 10-15 seconds after the start of spraying, it is better to release to the side. This allows you to level the pressure and remove possible clots that often clog the valve at the beginning of use. Also, the canister must be constantly shaken in the process of work so that the pigment does not settle to the bottom.
Table: Comparison of coating types for plastic
| Type of coating | Resilience | Difficulty applying | Appearance |
|---|---|---|---|
| aerosol enamel | Average (1-2 years) | Low. | Uniform matte |
| Two-component paint | High (3-5 years old) | Tall. | Professional |
| Structural paint | Tall. | Medium | Woolly (chuckling) |
| Reconstitutor (ink) | Low (1-2 months) | Minimum | Glossy/Fat |
Drying and polymerization of coatings
After the final layer is applied, the paint takes time to evaporate the solvents and polymerize. Touch the detail with your finger can be after 30-60 minutes, but the full strength of the coating gains much later. In the first 24 hours, it is better not to operate the car, especially in wet or dusty weather. Complete chemical resistance is achieved after 7-14 days.
Accelerate drying with heat guns or hair dryers should be with extreme caution. Local overheating can lead to boiling paint, the formation of bubbles or deformation of the plastic part itself, which can soften at a temperature higher. +60°C. Natural drying in a warm, dry room is the safest method.
If you painted the part in the cold season, let it warm up in a warm room for several hours before installing on the car. A sharp temperature drop can cause microcracks in the paint layer.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
One of the most common mistakes is not enough degreasing. Visually, the surface may appear clear, but the remnants of polishes or bitumen spots will appear after painting as "craters" or detachments. Another common problem is applying too thick a layer of paint, which leads to long drying and the risk of stains.
Ignoring the use of soil adhesive is a fatal mistake for plastic parts. Even the most expensive paint will not stick to polypropylene or ABS plastic without special preparation. Also, you should not save on materials: cheap paints can change color (yellow or gray) under the influence of ultraviolet light in one season.
- 🚫 Lack of soil - guarantee that the paint will peel off with a "stocking" at the first wash with a kerkerker.
- 💨 A draft in painting - leads to dust ingress and uneven drying of layers.
- 🌡️ Temperature disturbance Painting in the cold or under the scorching sun is unacceptable.
- 👐 Touching with your fingers Even clean hands leave greasy marks that violate adhesion.
⚠️ Warning: When working with aerosol cans and solvents, be sure to use a respirator and gloves. The paint vapors are toxic, and getting the compound on the skin can cause a severe chemical burn or allergic reaction.
Care for painted plastic
To paint plastic retains its appearance as long as possible, it must be properly cared for. The first two weeks after painting the car is better to wash only with water without the use of active chemicals and brushes. Water pressure when washing high pressure should also be limited, keeping the gun at a distance of at least 30 cm from painted surfaces.
For regular care, special spray cleaners for plastic or light car shampoo are ideal. Periodically (every 2-3 months) you can apply protective compounds based on Teflon or wax, which will create an additional hydrophobic layer. This will make it easier to remove dirt and protect the paint from burning out.
Durability of painting directly depends on the quality of surface preparation and compliance with drying intervals between layers. Saving time on these stages inevitably leads to a reworking of the work.
Can you paint plastic without removing the parts from your car?
Technically, this is possible, but it is highly discouraged. When painting on a car, it is very difficult to qualitatively protect adjacent elements (glass, body metal, rubber bands) from getting paint. In addition, access to hard-to-reach places will be limited, leading to neprocrastinations. The removed part is easier to prepare and paint from all sides.
How many layers of paint should you apply for black?
Usually 2-3 layers of paint are enough. The first layer is thin, binding. The second and third are the main ones, giving color and cover. Black color has a high covering ability, so 3-4 full layers usually cover even contrasting ground. The main thing is to give each layer time for rest (5-10 minutes).
Should I grind the plastic before painting if it is rough?
Factory texture (mashing) on bumpers do not need to be grinded, if it is not deep damage. Grinding is only needed to remove gloss, deep scratches, or if the previous coating is flaked. To wrap rough surfaces, it is enough to use the hard side of the sponge for washing dishes or a special scotch bright, so as not to clog the texture with dust.
What is the difference between plastic paint and regular paint?
Plastic paint contains special elastic additives (plasticizers) that allow the coating to stretch and contract together with the part when temperature changes or deformation. Regular paint becomes hard and brittle when drying, so on flexible plastic it will quickly be covered with a network of cracks.