Oxidation and the appearance of whitish plaque on the moldings and grilles are the first signs that aggressive winter reagents have begun to destroy a thin layer of coating. Unlike the stainless coating of the body, chrome-plate They do not have polymer protection on top, so contact with salt and acid causes an instant chemical reaction. Ignoring this process by the middle of winter leads to the formation of deep sores and detachment of the decorative layer, which can no longer be restored by polishing.
It is important to understand that a standard shampoo wash is not able to neutralize the ingrained salts, but only washes away surface dirt. Critical factors is the regular treatment of surfaces with preservatives that create a fat or polymer film. Without such a barrier, even a short-term parking in a garage or in a parking lot in high humidity conditions can be fatal for the appearance of the car. disk and the decor.
For owners of cars with an abundance of brilliant elements, preparing for the season becomes a mandatory procedure, comparable in importance to replacing oil or antifreeze. It is necessary not only to choose the right tool, but also to properly prepare the surface, otherwise any protection will be useless. Below we will discuss proven methods, types of compositions and an algorithm of actions that will keep the shine until spring.
Why chromium suffers the most in winter
The main problem lies in the galvanic nature of the coating. Chromium is applied with a thin layer on top of copper and nickel, and if the integrity of the upper layer is disturbed or the penetrating ability of the aggressive medium is high, electrochemical corrosion begins. Winter road reagents are a cocktail of chlorides, acetates and formates, which, when dissolved in snow porridge, form a powerful electrolyte.
- 🧪 Reagents penetrate into the microcracks of the coating, causing the underfilm corrosion.
- ❄️ Temperature variations lead to the expansion and compression of the metal, accelerating the destruction of the structure.
- 💧 Mud slurry acts as an abrasive, erasing the natural oxide layer of protection.
Especially vulnerable are the places of attachment of moldings and the edges of bumpers, where moisture often accumulates. If you do not do the processing, by spring you can find that decorative It is clouded or covered with a network of small cracks. In advanced cases, the metal begins to literally “bloom” with red spots, which indicates the release of rust from the deep layers of the base.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to wipe off winter plaque with dry wipes or hard brushes. Mechanical impact on frozen or contaminated surface is guaranteed to leave scratches that will become centers of further corrosion.
Chemical composition of reagents
Winter blends often contain calcium chloride and magnesium, which are hygroscopic. This means that they actively absorb moisture from the air, creating a constantly moist environment on the surface of the part, even at sub-zero temperatures, which repeatedly accelerates the oxidation of the metal.
Preparation of the surface before treatment
The quality of protection depends on how well the preliminary cleaning was carried out. Any residues of bitumen, silicone or old polish will block the penetration of the protective composition to the metal pores. The first step should always be a thorough wash using a degreasing agent or a specialized high pH shampoo.
After washing, it is necessary to dry the parts with compressed air or soft microfibre. It is important to make sure that there is no water left in the joints and gaps, which, when frozen, can damage the coating. For deep cleaning of porous chromium, which has already begun to tarnish, you can use soft polishing pastes that do not contain abrasive particles of a large fraction.
☑️ Checklist of preparations
If there are already traces of oxidation on the surface, they must be removed before protection is applied. For this purpose, special cleaners or “folk” remedies, such as a solution of baking soda or vinegar, are used, but with great care. After cleaning, the surface is again necessarily degreased to ensure maximum adhesion of the protective layer.
Review of means for protection of chrome parts
The autochemistry market offers a variety of solutions, and the choice depends on the desired durability and budget. All funds can be divided into three main categories: wax, silicone and ceramic. Each of them has its own advantages and features of use in winter.
| Type of instrument | Duration of validity | Difficulty of application | Reagent protection |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aerosol wax | 2-4 weeks | Low. | Medium |
| Silicone lubricant | 1-2 months | Low. | Tall. |
| Ceramic spray | 6-12 months | Tall. | Maximum |
| Oil preservatives | 1-3 months | Medium | Tall. |
The most affordable option is aerosol polyroles with content carnauba. They create a hydrophobic layer that repels water, but require frequent renewal. Silicone lubricants, often used for rubber seals, are great for chromium, creating a greasy film that prevents salt from penetrating the metal, although it looks less aesthetically pleasing.
For those who want to forget about the problem for the whole season, the best choice will be the best. ceramic spray Or liquid glass. They form a solid chemical bond with the surface, which is difficult to wash off even with active foam on sinks. However, such formulations require a perfectly clean surface and strict adherence to application technology, including exposure time.
Technology of application of protective coating
The process of applying protection should take place in a warm, dry room. Cold air and high humidity will reduce the effectiveness of most compounds to zero, since they will not have time to polymerize or fix on the surface. The temperature of the parts should not be lower than +15 ° C.
Apply the product with a thin, uniform layer, avoiding the formation of flows and inflows. For liquid formulations, use microfiber applicators or special wipes. If an aerosol is used, spray it not on the part, but on the applicator to control the amount of substance and not splash neighboring body elements.
- 🧽 Evenly distribute the composition in circular movements without strong pressure.
- ⏳ Keep the time specified by the manufacturer for polymerization (usually 5-10 minutes).
- ✨ Polish the surface with a dry, clean microfiber until the shine appears.
Pay special attention to hard-to-reach places where moisture accumulates. After applying the first layer, you can evaluate the result and, if necessary, apply the second to enhance the effect. Ceramic coatings Often require application in two layers with intermediate drying to achieve the manufacturer's declared strength.
⚠️ Attention: Do not apply protective compounds on hot parts or under direct sunlight. Rapid evaporation of solvents will lead to the appearance of rainbow spots, which are very difficult to remove without re-polishing.
Car washing rules in winter
Even the best protection won’t work forever if you don’t take care of your car in the winter. The main enemy is an automatic wash with brushes, which not only scratch the varnish, but also ruthlessly strip the protective layer from the chrome elements. In addition, the “chemistry” used there often has an alkaline base that destroys wax and silicone films.
The best option is a manual wash using two buckets or a contact wash using a soft sponge. It is important to flush the reagents thoroughly after each trip on the highway or treated streets. Do not let dirty slime dry on the body, turning into a solid shell.
Use the compressed air after washing. Residues of water in the gaps of moldings and grilles when frozen can damage the coating or the part itself. Pulling is especially relevant for hidden cavities.
If you can’t wash your car, try to at least rinse the critical areas with bottled water to wash off the salt concentrate. Regular use of fast spray-detailers with wax content after each wash will help extend the life of the main protective layer and preserve the shine. chrome-disc and decor.
Frequent errors in the preservation of chromium
Many motorists, wanting the best, make mistakes that reduce all efforts to nothing. The most common of these is the use of aggressive household chemicals, such as bath or toilet cleaners containing chlorine or strong acids. They will immediately erode the coating, making it matte and porous.
Another mistake is to apply protection to a dirty or wet surface. The water remaining in the pores is sealed under a layer of polish, creating ideal conditions for corrosion. Also, do not save on the frequency of treatments: one layer of wax applied in November is unlikely to live to March in the conditions of the metropolis.
- 🚫 Use of abrasive sponges and metal brushes for cleaning.
- 🚫 The use of solvents (acetone, gasoline) for degreasing (can damage the plastic nearby).
- 🚫 Ignoring the instructions for the time of drying the protective composition.
Remember that prevention is always cheaper and easier than recovery. If you notice that the water stopped rolling off the chrome elements "balls", and just lies with the film - then the protection is broken and re-treatment is required. Regular inspection and timely updating of the layer will allow your car to look presentable even after a harsh winter.
The main secret of the durability of chromium in winter is not so much an expensive remedy as the regularity of updating treatments and the lack of contact with abrasive brushes on sinks.
Can WD-40 be used to protect chromium?
The WD-40 is not recommended for long-term protection. It has excellent water repellent properties and can temporarily preserve the part, but quickly washed off and evaporates. For winter, specialized silicone lubricants or waxes are better suited, which create a more resistant film.
How to remove white plaque from chromium, if it has already appeared?
Fresh plaque can be tried to remove a special chromium cleaner or polyrene for metal with a soft abrasive. If the oxidation went deep and there were “craters”, only professional galvanic restoration or replacement of the part will help.
Do I need to wash off the protective agent before the next treatment?
Yes, before applying a new layer of protection, it is desirable to wash and degrease the surface. The accumulation of layers of old chemistry mixed with dirt can lead to uneven distribution of new composition and the appearance of spots.
Does chromelanding (liquid chromium) damage winter chemistry?
Chromelanding is a paintwork that mimics chromium. It is less resistant to mechanical damage than electroplating, but modern varnishes protect it well from reagents. The main thing is not to rub such details with brushes and avoid aggressive solvents.