When the washing machine Siemens the water stops heating, the wash turns into a useless rinse, and a scary error code lights up on the display. Most often the cause is failure heating element, which among craftsmen is simply called heating element. This is a consumable part that is subject to wear due to scale and voltage surges, so replacing it is a standard equipment maintenance procedure.
Self-replacement allows you to significantly save your budget, since the cost of the spare part is relatively low, and the process itself does not require unique equipment. You will only need a basic set of tools and a clear understanding of the structure of your unit Siemens. In this article we will analyze all stages of work, from diagnostics to the first test run.
Before proceeding with disassembly, it is important to make sure that the problem lies in the heater and not in the control module or temperature sensor. Incorrect diagnosis will lead to the purchase of unnecessary parts and wasted time. Modern Siemens models are equipped with a self-diagnosis system, which often indicates a heater malfunction with code E18 or F18, but double-checking with a multimeter is required.
Diagnosis of heating element malfunction
The first sign of failure is cold water in the tub after starting a high-temperature wash cycle. The machine may hum while trying to heat the water, but the timer will remain stuck or the wash will take an indefinite amount of time. On display Siemens Specific codes may appear indicating heating problems or current leakage.
For an accurate check, you need to get to the contacts of the heating element, usually they are located at the back of the case. After disconnecting the machine from the network, remove the back cover and visualize the contacts. Testing with a multimeter - the only reliable way to confirm a breakdown or open circuit. If the resistance is infinite or zero, the part must be replaced.
It is also worth checking for scale on the surface of the tubes. A thick layer of deposits not only reduces heating efficiency, but also leads to local overheating, which causes destruction of the nichrome spiral inside. If the plaque is thick, you may need to clean or replace other components, for example, the temperature sensor.
- 🔌 No heating at a set temperature of 60-90 degrees.
- ⚡ Knocking out traffic jams or the RCD is triggered immediately when the heating mode is turned on.
- 📉 Error codes series F or E on the display related to temperature conditions.
Necessary tools and preparation
Replacing the heating element on a washing machine Siemens requires a minimum set of tools that most home craftsmen have. The main thing is to ensure safe working conditions and access to electrical communications. You should not start work if the floor is wet or the lighting is not bright enough.
You will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the back panel, pliers to work the clamps, and perhaps an 8mm or 10mm socket to remove the heater nut. Also, do not forget to prepare a container to drain the remaining water, since when removing the heating element, a small amount of liquid may spill out of the tank.
☑️ Preparation for repairs
Pay special attention when purchasing a new part. heating elements for Siemens washing machines come in different lengths, power and shape. It is important to choose a model with a temperature sensor (if it is built-in) or make sure that your old sensor can be rearranged. Universal heaters may not fit the mounting geometry.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the washing machine from the electrical network! Unplug the plug from the socket. Working with live electrical appliances is deadly.
Removing the old heating element
The removal process begins with dismantling the rear panel of the case. Most models Siemens it is attached to four screws around the perimeter. After unscrewing them, the panel moves down and is removed, opening access to the bottom of the tank, where the heating element is located.
The heating element is a curved metal tube extending from the tank. At its ends there are contacts covered with a plastic cover. Carefully remove the cover, having previously photographed the wire connection diagram, so that during assembly you do not confuse the polarity or ground connection.
The central nut that secures the heating element may be covered with rust or limescale. Before unscrewing, it is recommended to spray it with a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and wait 10-15 minutes. After unscrewing the nut, do not immediately pull on the contacts - first you need to press the bolt inside the tank to release the rubber cuff.
- 📸 Take a photo connecting wires before disconnecting them.
- 🔧 Use a penetrating lubricant for rusty fastening nuts.
- 🧹 Clean the installation site from dirt and remnants of old rubber.
After the nut is removed and the bolt is pressed in, carefully loosen the heating element from side to side and pull it towards you. Be careful not to damage the enamel of the tank or the plastic elements inside. If the heater is heavily clogged with scale, its diameter may be increased, and extraction will require effort.
What to do if the heating element cannot be removed?
If the heating element is stuck and will not budge, do not use excessive force to avoid puncturing the tank. Try gently tapping the protruding bolt with a hammer through a piece of wood or using a thin screwdriver to pry up the edges of the rubber. You can also pour boiling water over the exit area - the rubber will become more elastic, and it will be easier to pull out the part.”
Installation of a new heating element and assembly
Installation of a new heating element is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First, make sure that the new heating element matches the size and power (usually 1700-1900 W for Siemens). If the new part does not have a temperature sensor, carefully remove it from the old part, being careful as it is a fragile component.
Insert the new heating element into the tank hole until it stops. It is important that it sits evenly, without distortion. Then screw the nut onto the center bolt. Nut tightening should be moderate: excessive force may deform the flange or damage the rubber seal, which will lead to leakage, and weak tightening will cause the part to fly out under water pressure.
| Parameter | Meaning/Action | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Heating element power | 1700 - 1900 W | Depends on the specific Siemens model |
| Nut tightening torque | Medium | Do not overtighten to avoid crushing the rubber. |
| Resistance of a working heating element | 20 - 40 Ohm | Checked with a multimeter |
| Breakdown resistance | Infinity | Between contacts and housing |
Connect the wires according to the photograph you took earlier or the diagram on the cover. Make sure the terminals are tight and not loose. If the contacts are oxidized, they can be lightly sanded with fine sandpaper. After connecting the electrical part, replace the protective plastic cover.
The final stage of assembly is installing the back panel. Screw the screws and make sure that the panel fits into the grooves without gaps. Now you can move on to testing. Be sure to check that all tools have been removed and that there are no foreign objects left in the drum.
Lubricate the rubber seal of the new heating element with a small amount of soap solution or silicone grease before installation. This will make installation easier and provide a more airtight seal to the tank.
Testing and first launch
The first start after replacing the heating element is a critical moment. Plug in the machine, open the water tap and select a cotton washing program at 60 or 90 degrees. It is important to run a cycle without laundry in order to control the process and notice possible leaks or malfunctions in time.
During the first 5-10 minutes of operation, the machine will draw water. Carefully inspect the installation location of the new heater at the rear. If water appears, the nut needs to be tightened. If it's dry, watch the heating process. Touch the glass of the hatch (carefully so as not to get burned) after 15-20 minutes: it should become warm.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a crackling sound, see sparks or smell the wiring, immediately interrupt the wash with the reset button and unplug the machine! This is a sign of an incorrect connection or a defective part.
Make sure the machine reaches the correct temperature and proceeds to the next washing steps (wash, rinse, spin). If no error appears on the display and the water becomes hot, it means replacing the heating element was successful. You can end the cycle and check the quality of the wash.
Successful replacement is confirmed by the absence of leaks, heating of the water to the set temperature and the absence of error codes on the display after a full wash cycle.
Common mistakes and tips for extending service life
A common mistake during installation is poor tightening of the nut or damage to the rubber seal during installation. This leads to leaks that can flood the floor and even reach electronic modules. Also, users often forget to reset the thermostat, wondering why the machine does not heat the water.
To ensure that the new heating element lasts a long time, it is recommended to use special anti-scale products or install magnetic filters on the water supply hose. Regular preventative cleaning of the machine with citric acid (no more than once every 3-4 months) helps keep the heating element clean.
- 🧼 Use water softeners or tableted salt for dishwashers (in small doses).
- 🌡️ Do not abuse high temperatures (90°C) unless absolutely necessary.
- 🚿 Wipe the rubber seal hatch after each wash to avoid mold and corrosion of nearby parts.
Remember that the quality of the powder also plays a role. Cheap products with a high content of aggressive chemicals can quickly destroy the protective coating of the heating element. Choose trusted brands and follow the dosages specified by the manufacturer Siemens.
Which heating element is better to choose: original or analogue?
Original spare parts Siemens guarantee a perfect fit and durability, but they are more expensive. High-quality analogues (for example, Thermowatt, Irca) are often not inferior in reliability and are cheaper. The main thing is to avoid the cheapest “no-name” options with thin metal and weak contacts that can burn out in a month.
Is it possible to wash if the heating element is burnt out?
Technically the machine will work, but will only wash with cold water. This is acceptable for delicate fabrics, but is absolutely not suitable for washing greasy stains, children's clothing or bed linen, where hygienic treatment at 60-90 degrees is required. In addition, some programs may not complete due to the temperature-dependent timer.
Why did the new heating element burn out immediately after installation?
The most likely causes: a power surge in the network, incorrect connection (short circuit of contacts), a manufacturing defect of a part, or a malfunction of the control module that sent the wrong signal. Another reason may be turning on the machine without water (“dry”), which leads to instant overheating of the coil.