The appearance of oily undertone on the body of the gasoline trimmer gearbox or a characteristic whistle when working often signals critical wear of the sealing elements. Ignoring these symptoms can lead to lubrication from the mechanism, jamming of gears and costly repairs to the entire knot. Timely plumbing allows you to extend the life of the unit and avoid failure of expensive metal friction pairs.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the process of diagnosis and replacement of seals, paying special attention to the nuances of disassembly of the gearbox. You will learn how to choose the right materials, clean the seats and assemble the mechanism so that it will serve for many years. Repair does not require complex special tools, but requires accuracy and understanding of the principles of the crank-shaking mechanism.
Diagnosis of malfunctions and signs of wear
The first sign that the tightness of the crankcase is broken is heavy smoke from the exhaust pipe when the engine is running. This is because it is a worn out plumber in the combustion chamber, an excess amount of fuel mixture is sucked from the crankcase, violating the proportions of the mixture. The engine begins to work unstable, losing power and thrust.
The second important symptom concerns the transmission part. If you notice that dark spots of oil appeared on the plastic casing of the gearbox or on the bar, then the sealing of the shaft of the knife or gear drive does not cope with its task. Oil leak It is especially noticeable after prolonged work, when the lubricant warms up and becomes more fluid. It is impossible to leave this without attention, since the loss of lubrication will lead to dry friction.
It is also worth listening to the sounds made by the mechanism. The appearance of an extraneous whistle, squeak or change in the tone of the engine often indicates the sucking of unaccounted air through the cuffs. For accurate diagnosis, you can use the method of spraying the joints of the crankcase with fuel: if the engine speed changes, then the tightness is broken in this place.
- 🔍 Excessive smoke and loss of engine power during the set of turns.
- 💧 The appearance of oil spots on the body of the gearbox or trimmer bar.
- 🔊 The appearance of whistling sounds or a change in the tone of the engine.
- 📉 Unstable idle speeds and difficulties with starting a hot engine.
⚠️ Attention: Operation of the trimmer with faulty crankshaft coils can lead to bullies of the piston group due to impoverishment of the mixture and overheating. At the first sign of air suction, stop working.
Required tools and materials
For high-quality work on the replacement of seals, you will need to prepare a certain set of tools. The basic kit includes a set of screwdrivers (cross and flat), wrenches of appropriate sizes and a removable for bearings or shafts. Without a specialized skipper, it will be extremely difficult to pull out pressed parts without damaging the seats.
Special attention should be paid to the choice of new seals. It is best to purchase original parts from the manufacturer of your trimmer, for example, Stihl, Husqvarna or Partner. If the original is impossible to find, choose analogues in size, indicated on the old oil oil, paying attention to the material of execution - it should be resistant to the effects of gasoline and oils.
You will also need a new gearbox lubricant, brake cleaner or carburetor spray to degrease surfaces, as well as a rag that leaves no pile. To press new cuffs may need a mandrel of the appropriate diameter or a head from a set of tools to evenly distribute the force.
| Tool. | Appointment | Importance |
|---|---|---|
| Bearing detachment | Dismantling old gums | Tall. |
| Screwdriver kit. | Disassembly of the hull | I'll be sure. |
| Cleaner | Surface degreasing | Tall. |
| Lubrication for gearbox | Lubrication gears | I'll be sure. |
Preparation for engine disassembly
Safe conditions must be ensured before any dismantling work begins. First of all, disconnect the spark plug to exclude accidental start of the engine. This is a basic safety rule that is often ignored, which can lead to injuries when scrolling the shaft.
Next, you should clean the outer surface of the crankcase from dirt, grass and oil deposits. Use a brush and solvent so that dust does not get inside during the disassembly process. Cleanliness in the working area is the key to successful repairs, as any grain of sand that falls under the omentum will lead to rapid wear and re-flow.
Remove the air filter, carburetor and silencer if they interfere with access to the crankcase cover. To do this, use the appropriate keys, carefully unscrewing the fasteners. It is recommended to photograph the location of rods and hoses so that there are no problems with connection during assembly.
- 🛑 Disconnect the high-voltage wire from the spark plug for safety.
- 🧹 Carefully clean the trimmer body of contaminants before opening.
- 📸 Take a photo of the connection of the gas thrust and air valve.
- 🔧 Remove the fuel tank if the trimmer design requires its dismantling for access.
☑️ Preparation for repairs
Dismantling and defective gearbox
If the problem is leaking from the lower node, then disassembly begins with the removal of the cutting element. Unscrew the lock bolt or use a special key to fix the shaft to remove the knife or coil. Then unscrew the gearbox bolts to the bar and remove the knot in the assembly.
When disassembling the gearbox itself, be careful about the location of the gears. In some models, the skirt-toothed gear may have a specific orientation. Remove the drive shaft, inspect the condition of the bearings and gears themselves. The presence of backshaft indicates the need to replace not only the oil seals, but also the bearings of slip or rolling.
Old gums are removed using a screwdriver or a special hook. You need to act carefully, trying not to scratch the inner surface of the gearbox body. Scratches on the shaft mirror or in the seat will pass the oil even through the new seal. If deep risks are found on the shaft, it must be replaced or traversed.
⚠️ Attention: When knocking out the gearbox shaft, do not apply direct hammer blows to the ends of the shaft. Use a soft metal or wood spacer to avoid cracking the carvings or seats.
After extracting all the details, thoroughly wash the gearbox body and shafts in gasoline or kerosene. Remove the remnants of the old lubricant and metal shavings that may have formed as a result of friction. Cleanliness of parts is a critical factor in the durability of repairs.
Replacement of crankshaft glands
Replacing the ossels on the engine is a more complex procedure that requires a complete disassembly of the crank-shaking mechanism. After removing the carburetor and silencer, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts of the crankcase mounting. In two-stroke engines, the halves of the crankcase are often sealed together, so neat disconnection may be required with a special detacher or light tapping.
After the separation of the crankcase, access to crankshaft. Old cuffs are carefully removed. Planting places in an aluminum crankcase must be perfectly cleaned and degreased. Check the condition of the shaft neck under the osteoil: it should be smooth, without corrosion and production. Any roughness will tear the edge of the new seal.
Nuances of the galls installation
When installing a new oil, it is important not to damage its working edge. It is recommended to lubricate the working surface of the osseal and the shaft with oil before pressing. Pressing must be strictly even, without distortion, using a mandrel on the outer metal ring. The distortion will lead to an instant loss of tightness.
New glands are installed in place by means of a mandrel. It is important to observe the direction of installation: the working edge of the osbium (often has a spring) should look towards the working environment, that is, inside the crankcase for the osblast from the exhaust side, and inside the crankcase for the osblast from the intake side to hold the oil and not let air in. Pressing is made by light blows of the hammer on the mandrel to the point.
- 🔨 Carefully disconnect the halves of the crankcase so as not to damage the gasket.
- 🧐 Check the neck of the crankshaft for bullies and corrosion.
- 🛢️ Lubricate the working edge of the new oil oil with engine oil before installation.
- 📏 Press the oment strictly perpendicularly, using a mandrel.
Before assembling the crankcase, apply a thin layer of heat-resistant sealant to the landfill planes, even if a paper pad is used. This ensures the absolute tightness of the joint.
Assembly of the mechanism and selection of lubricant
The assembly of the gearbox and the engine is carried out in reverse sequence. When installing the gearshaft, make sure that the gears are paired correctly. Do not put too much effort, if the details are not included – check the correct orientation. After installing the shaft, you can install new oils, observing the pressing technology described above.
Pay special attention to lubrication. Special adhesive lubricants are used for trimmer reducers, often with molybdenum disulfide or graphite. Ordinary litol or solidol at high revs can flow out or coke. The lubricant should tightly fill the space around the gears, but not be excessive, so as not to create excessive pressure when heated.
When assembling the crankcase of the engine, use a new set of gaskets. Old pads, as a rule, lose their properties after disassembly and do not provide the desired tightness. Bolts mount the crankcase tighten the cross, evenly pressing the halves to avoid distortion and snacking the shaft.
The quality of the assembly directly depends on the purity of the parts and the correctness of the choice of lubricant. Using an inappropriate lubricant will negate all efforts to replace gums.
| Node. | Type of lubricant | Replacement frequency |
|---|---|---|
| gearbox | Special lubricant for gearboxes (MoS2) | Every 10 motor hours. |
| Shaft bearings | High-temperature lubricant | During repairs |
| The barbells | Graphite lubrication | Every season. |
| Gas cable | Liquid oil | If necessary, |
Performance check and launch
After the final assembly of all nodes and setting the trimmer in the initial position, you can start testing. Pour the fuel mixture into the tank, observing the correct proportions of oil and gasoline specified in the instructions for your model. Check the reliability of all mounts, especially fuel hoses and air filters.
Start the engine and let it warm up at idle speeds. Carefully inspect the installation of new slabs. At the first minutes of work, a slight smell of burning oil or sealant is possible, but there should be no leakage of the liquid. Scroll the shaft manually (on a silenced engine) - it should rotate freely, without jamming and extraneous sounds.
Allow the engine to work under load for 10-15 minutes. Periodically stop and check the temperature of the gearbox and crankcase. Excessive heating may indicate improper assembly, overstretched bearings, or lack of lubrication. If all parameters are normal, the trimmer is ready for full operation.
⚠️ Attention: The first start after repairs is carried out in a well-ventilated room or outdoors. Make sure there are no flammable objects nearby, as short-term clapping in the muffler is possible due to fuel residues.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I change the trimmer?
The resource of the oil oil glands depends on the intensity of operation and the quality of the fuel mixture. On average, a preventive replacement is recommended every 2-3 seasons or after 100-150 hours. However, if there are signs of leakage or air sucking, replacement is required immediately, regardless of the operating time.
Can I use car oils for a trimmer?
It can be used only if the dimensions (internal diameter, outer diameter and height) coincide perfectly, and the cuff material is resistant to aggressive environments (gasoline, oil). However, car oils may not withstand high speeds (10-15 thousand). RPM), characteristic of two-stroke trimmer engines, so it is better to look for specialized analogues.
Why did the trimmer start to deafen after replacing the omentum?
The most likely reason is improper installation of the osteoil (the sides are confused) or damage to the working edge during installation, which sucks air. Also, the problem may be in poor-quality assembly of the crankcase, violation of gaps or lost settings of the carburetor, which went wrong in the process of disassembly.
Do I need to smear the shaft before installing a new oil?
Yes, it's a must. The working edge of the obull and the surface of the shaft must be smeared abundantly with oil, which will be used in the mechanism (or motor oil). Dry start of the osel is guaranteed to damage the edge in the first seconds of operation and loss of tightness.
How to clean the seat of the osseol from the old sealant?
For cleaning, it is best to use wooden or plastic scrapers so as not to damage the soft aluminum crankcase. Residues can be removed with rags soaked in gasoline or acetone. Metal tools (knives, stones) are not recommended to use to avoid scratches.