Introduction: Why the Standard Audio System Disappoints You
Have you ever noticed how the factory stereo in your car distorts the bass at high volumes? Or how the singerβs vocals drown in a noisy stream of βmidβ frequencies? This is not an accident - 90% of serial audio systems in cars are optimized for low cost, and not for high-quality sound. Manufacturers save on speakers by installing cheap full-range models with paper diffusers, which begin to βwheezeβ already at 60% volume.
But the problem is not only the quality of the components. Even premium cars are often equipped with acoustics designed for "average" listener - without taking into account individual preferences. Do you like powerful bass? You can't do without a subwoofer. Prefer clean vocals and detailed highs? We'll have to change tweeters. And if you want both, welcome to the world component systems, where each speaker is responsible for its own range. In this article we will look at all types of car speakers, their pros/cons and critical errors that spoil the sound even in expensive acoustics.
1. Coaxial speakers: a universal solution for most
Coaxial (or "two-way") speakers are the most popular choice for upgrading factory speakers. Their main advantage: everything in one building. A woofer (responsible for low/medium frequencies) and a tweeter (high frequencies) are combined inside one speaker, which simplifies installation - no need to lay separate wires for tweeters.
Such models are ideal for those who want to improve the sound without major modifications to the interior. For example, Pioneer TS-A1670F or JBL Club 6520 replace standard door speakers in 20-30 minutes. But there are also pitfalls:
- π Limited sound stage. Due to the combined design, high and low frequencies come from one point, which reduces the βthree-dimensionalityβ of the sound.
- π Compromise on frequencies. The woofer and tweeter compete for space, so the bass often drowns out the high frequencies at high volumes.
- π οΈ Difficulties with setup. Without an external crossover (frequency filter), it is almost impossible to achieve a balanced sound.
Coaxial speakers are divided into two- and three-way. The latter add a mid-bass speaker for better transmission of mid-range frequencies, but cost 30-50% more. For example, Alpine SPS-610C β a three-way speaker with a separate midrange, which significantly improves vocals.
β οΈ Attention: When installing coaxial speakers in doors, check the depth of the mounting space. Many models (eg Kicker 43DSC67304) have a magnet 70+ mm deep and can rest against the window lifter. Use cardboard templateto avoid embarrassing situations.
2. Component systems: concert hall sound
If you're willing to spend time and money on perfect sound, component speakers are your choice. Here each speaker is responsible for its own range:
- π΅ Woofer (6-9 inches) - low and mid frequencies (from 40 Hz to 3-5 kHz).
- πΆ Twitter (1-2 inches) - high frequencies (from 2-5 kHz and above).
- π Crossover - an electronic filter that separates the signal between the speakers.
Advantages of component systems:
- π§ Accurate sound stage. Tweeters are installed at ear level (for example, in windshield pillars), and woofers are installed in the doors. This creates the effect of βliveβ sound.
- π Great power. Component woofers can withstand up to 150-200 W RMS (versus 50-80 W for coaxial ones).
- ποΈ Flexible setup. You can adjust the treble/bass level separately.
Of the minuses - installation difficulty. You need to run separate wires to the tweeters, install crossovers (usually behind the dashboard) and adjust the phasing. Popular kits: Focal PS 165 (France), Morel Tempo Ultra 602 (Israel), Hertz Dieci DSK 165 (Italy).
What is phasing and why is it important?
Phasing is the synchronization of the movement of speaker cones. If the woofer "pulls" air in and the tweeter "pushes" air out, the sound waves cancel each other out and the bass disappears. You can check the phasing with a simple test: connect the speakers to the radio in mono mode and listen to the bass at minimum volume. If you can hardly hear it, change the polarity of the wires on one of the speakers.
| Parameter | Coaxial | Component |
|---|---|---|
| Sound quality | Average (3/5) | High (5/5) |
| Difficulty of installation | Low (1/5) | High (4/5) |
| Cost (set 2+2) | 5 000β15 000 β½ | 15 000β50 000 β½ |
| Power (RMS) | 30β80 W | 50β200 W |
| Top brands | Pioneer, JBL, Alpine | Focal, Morel, Hertz, Rainbow |
3. Wideband speakers: cheap and cheerful
Full-range (or "single-way") speakers are what you'll find in 99% of budget cars from the factory. One speaker is trying to play entire frequency range - from 80 Hz to 20 kHz. Result? "Porridge" of sounds, where the bass drowns out the vocals and the highs become distorted.
So why are they still used? It's simple:
- π° Cheapness. The cost of one speaker is from 500 β½.
- π§ Easy to install. One wire, one seat.
- π Compactness. Suitable for rear parcel shelf or doors in small cars (e.g. Daewoo Matiz or Kia Picanto).
If you still decide to use them, choose models with polypropylene diffuser (for example, Sony XS-FB1630) - they are less susceptible to deformation from moisture than paper. But remember: full-range speakers are physically incapable of reproducing both bass and high frequencies at the same time. Their only justification is a temporary replacement for a burnt-out speaker or βbackgroundβ speaker in a work car.
To slightly improve the sound of full-range speakers, apply vibration-absorbing material (such as StP Vibro). This will reduce resonance and make the bass a little clearer.
4. Subwoofers: when there is never too much bass
A subwoofer is a separate speaker that specializes exclusively at low frequencies (usually 20β200 Hz). Without it, even the most expensive component system will sound flat, especially if you listen to hip-hop, electronic music or rock.
Subwoofers are divided into two types:
- π Active. Built-in amplifier + speaker in one housing. Easier to install (you only need a signal from the radio and power), but they take up more space. Examples: JBL BassPro SL, Pioneer TS-WX130DA.
- π§ Passive. Only the speaker in the case, requires an external amplifier. They sound better, but are more expensive and more difficult to set up. Popular: Alpine SWR-12D4, Kicker CompVR 12".
Key parameters when choosing:
- π Size. 8" - for compact cars, 10"β12" - for sedans/SUVs.
- π Housing type.
Closed- clear bassBass reflex- louder, but less accurate. - ποΈ Sensitivity. Optimally 85β90 dB - the higher, the less power needed from the amplifier.
β οΈ Attention: Installing a subwoofer in the trunk without soundproofing will turn your car into a βtambourine.β Be sure to cover the trunk with vibration absorber (Bitumast, Shumoff) and use sealed boxes, otherwise the bass will βboomβ in the body and not sound clear.
5. Midbass speakers: the audiophile's secret weapon
Midwoofers (or "midwoofers") are a hybrid between a woofer and a subwoofer. They reproduce mids and lower mids (80β500 Hz), which are responsible for the βbodyβ of sound: drums, bass guitars, male vocals. In component systems, the midbass is often integrated into the woofers, but for true audiophiles, there are separate models.
Where are they installed?
- πͺ At the door (replacing standard speakers).
- πͺ In the rear shelf (if there is space).
- π§ On the catwalks (homemade boxes under the seats).
Best midbass speakers:
- π΅ Focal Access 165 AS β clear mid frequencies, polykevlar diffuser.
- π΅ Rainbow SL 165 - aluminum housing, can withstand up to 120 W RMS.
- π΅ Morel MW 6 - premium sound, but the price starts from 20,000 β½ per pair.
The main advantage of midbass is that they unload the subwoofer, allowing it to focus on ultra-low frequencies (below 80 Hz). This makes the sound more detailed. The downside is that they require proper crossover settings, otherwise they will conflict with the woofer.
Make sure the radio supports 3-way output|Check the seat depth (60mm minimum needed)|Buy a crossover with an adjustable crossover point (100-300Hz)|Use sound-absorbing material in the doors-->
6. Which type of speakers to choose: step-by-step guide
The choice of speakers depends on three factors: budget, musical preferences and readiness to modify the car. Here's the algorithm:
- Define your goal:
- π§ βI want clear sound without extra costsβ β coaxial speakers.
- π΅ βI love rock/jazz, detail is importantβ β component system.
- π βIt needs to be bassyβ β coaxial + subwoofer.
- ποΈ βI want the best, the budget is unlimitedβ β component system + subwoofer + amplifier.
- Check compatibility:
- Measure the diameter of the stock speakers (usually 13β16 cm).
- Estimate the depth of the seat (minimum 50 mm for most models).
- Make sure that the radio supports external amplifiers (if you are planning a subwoofer).
- π° Budget (up to 10,000 β½): Pioneer, JBL, Sony.
- π΅ Medium (10,000β30,000 RUR): Alpine, Kenwood, Rainbow.
- π Premium (30,000 β½+): Focal, Morel, Hertz, Audison.
Example of optimal combinations:
- π For city hatchback: Coaxial JBL Club 6520 (front) + subwoofer Pioneer TS-WX1210A (active, in the trunk).
- π For business class sedan: Component Focal PS 165 (front) + subwoofer Alpine SWR-10D4 (passive, with amplifier).
- ποΈ For SUV: Component Morel Tempo Ultra 602 (front) + midbass Rainbow SL 165 (rear) + subwoofer Kicker CompVR 12".
Don't skimp on wires! Cheap Chinese cables with thin cores lead to power losses of up to 30%. Use at least 4 AWG copper cable for the subwoofer and 16 AWG for the speakers.
7. TOP 5 mistakes when choosing and installing speakers
Even expensive acoustics can sound bad if you make these mistakes:
- Ignoring Impedance. Speakers come in 2, 4 and 8 ohms. If you connect a 2 ohm speaker to a 4 ohm radio, it will overheat. Check compatibility!
- Lack of sound insulation. Without a vibration absorber in the doors, 50% of the bass goes to shaking the metal. Minimum set: StP Vibro + Splen.
- Wrong phasing. If the speakers are connected out of phase, the bass disappears. You can check it with a test in mono mode (see spoiler above).
- Saving on amplifier. A 500 W subwoofer connected to a 50 W radio will sound quieter than a 100 W subwoofer with a normal amplifier.
- Failure to take into account interior acoustics. In a small car (for example, Hyundai Solaris) A 12-inch subwoofer will create hum, but in a large SUV, an 8-inch subwoofer will drown.
Another common problem is speaker overload. If you feed a 50-watt speaker 100 watts, it won't get louder, it'll just burn out. Always look at the parameter RMS (rated power), not at peak.
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions
π Is it possible to install larger speakers than standard ones?
Yes, but with reservations. For example, instead of 13-centimeter (5.25"), you can install 16-centimeter (6.5") if:
- The depth of the magnet does not exceed 60 mm.
- A hole in the metal of the door allows you to expand the seat (sometimes a grinder is required).
- Are you using
spacers-adaptersfor fastening.
In some cars (for example, Toyota Corolla E150) the front speakers can be upgraded from 16 cm to 18 cm (7"), but the rear speakers can only be upgraded to 13 cm due to limited space.
π΅ Do I need to change the radio when installing new speakers?
Not always. If the new acoustics have sensitivity above 90 dB (for example, Alpine SPS-610C - 91 dB), it can be connected to the standard radio. But:
- The bass will be weak (standard radio amplifiers usually output 15β20 W per channel).
- High frequencies can be distorted due to a poor DAC in cheap radios.
For full sound, it is better to install an external amplifier or replace the radio with a model with 4 Volt output (for example, Pioneer DEH-S4200BT).
π§ How to check if the speakers are working after installation?
Turn the radio on Test Tone (available on most models) or play a test tone (you can download sweep signal from YouTube). Check:
- All speakers produce sound (no breaks in the wires).
- No wheezing/distortion at maximum volume.
- The bass is heard equally on both sides (correct phasing).
If one speaker sounds quieter, check:
- Polarity of wires.
- Quality of contacts (oxidation or poor soldering).
- Balance/feeder settings on the radio.
π° How much does it cost to completely replace the acoustics in a car?
The cost depends on the system level:
| Level | Equipment | Cost (β½) |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | Coaxial speakers 6.5" (4 pcs.) + active subwoofer 8" | 15 000β25 000 |
| Medium | Component system (front) + coaxial (rear) + 10" subwoofer + 4-channel amplifier | 40 000β80 000 |
| Premium | Component system (Focal/Morel) + midbass + 12" subwoofer + mono amplifier + soundproofing | 100 000β200 000+ |
The price does not include labor (from RUB 5,000 for installing speakers to RUB 30,000 for complete system assembly with wiring).
π Is it possible to install the speakers yourself?
Yes, if you have:
- Set of screwdrivers and keys.
- Soldering iron + solder (for reliable connections).
- Multimeter (to check polarity).
- Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape.
Difficulties you will encounter:
- Removing door trim (sometimes a special tool for clips is required).
- Laying wires from the radio to the speakers (you will have to remove the thresholds).
- Crossover setting (if using a component system).
For a subwoofer, it is better to turn to professionals - errors in connecting the amplifier can lead to fire (short circuit) or failure of the radio.