Modern technologies allow you to turn your fantasies into reality right in your hands, and 3D pen has become one of the most accessible tools for this. Many beginners encounter difficulties when starting up for the first time, not knowing which side to approach the device from and how to avoid common mistakes. The video instructions in this article will help you visually master the process, and the text description will reinforce your theoretical knowledge.
Before you start creating, you need to understand the basic principles of how the device works. Miniature 3D printer melts the plastic and squeezes it through a thin nozzle, where the material instantly hardens. Understanding the physics of the process is the key to creating clean lines and strong structures that won't fall apart after five minutes.
It is important to immediately set yourself up in an experimental mood, since ideal forms are rarely obtained the first time. The melting point of ABS plastic is 210-240°C, which is significantly higher than that of PLA (180-210°C), and ignoring these parameters may damage the instrument. Let's look at all the stages of work in detail so that your journey into the world of 3D graphics begins successfully.
Selection of material and preparation for work
The first step before turning on the device is choosing the right type of plastic. Two main types dominate the market: ABS and PLA, each of which has its own unique properties and operating requirements. ABS plastic stronger and more durable, but when heated it emits an unpleasant odor and requires good ventilation of the room.
Unlike him, PLA plastic Made from corn or sugar cane, which makes it environmentally friendly and safe for children. It hardens faster and has almost no odor, but products made from it are more fragile and are susceptible to high temperatures, for example, when left in the sun in a car.
⚠️ Warning: Never load plastic into a cold nozzle or try to force it through. This will cause the feed mechanism to jam and require complex repairs to the extruder.
It is also worth mentioning the existence PCL plastic, which melts at low temperatures (about 60°C) and is often used in children's pen models. It is very soft and flexible, which is ideal for making keychains or jewelry, but not at all suitable for engineering tasks.
When preparing your workspace, make sure that the table surface is protected from dripping molten material. You can use a special silicone mat, cardboard or even regular office paper, which can then be easily removed. The cleanliness of the workplace directly affects the quality of the final product.
First start and temperature setting
The process of turning on the device seems simple, but has its own nuances that affect the service life of the tool. After connecting the power supply to the network, you must press the power button and wait until the indicator shows readiness for operation. This usually takes from 30 seconds to 2 minutes depending on the model.
It is critical to set the correct temperature for the type of filament loaded. If you are using ABS, set the value to around 220°C, and for PLA the optimal range is 190-200°C. Too low a temperature will cause the plastic to be squeezed out jerkily or stop coming out of the nozzle altogether.
On the other hand, excessive heat will make the plastic too liquid and it will spread out without holding its shape. In such cases, the lines turn out to be sluggish, and the design itself may “float” during the drawing process. Adjusting the feed speed also plays a role: for small parts the speed is reduced, and for filling large volumes it is increased.
Before you start drawing, squeeze 10-15 cm of plastic onto a napkin to clear the nozzle of any remaining old material and make sure the flow is even.
Some advanced models such as MyRiwell or PenUp, are equipped with LCD displays where you can accurately control the parameters. In simpler versions, the setting is done using a mechanical wheel, where the temperature has to be selected experimentally, focusing on the behavior of the material.
Techniques for drawing in the air and on the surface
There are two main ways to create objects: drawing on a flat surface and creating elements in the air. Training should always begin with drawing on a plane, as this gives support to the hand and allows you to control the thickness of the line. Take a stencil or draw an outline by hand on paper and simply move the tip of the pen along the lines.
The technique of drawing in the air requires the ability to maintain the balance of the structure. The principle works here layer-by-layer application: You create a base element, give it a second to cool down, and continue building. If you hurry, the whole structure will collapse like a house of cards.
- 🎨 Hold the pen perpendicular to the surface to obtain smooth lines of equal thickness.
- 🎨 Move your hand smoothly, without jerking, synchronizing the speed of movement with the speed of plastic feed.
- 🎨 Use your free hand (gloved or fingertip) to hold the elements you are creating.
Particular attention should be paid to connecting parts. The junction of the two lines needs to be heated a little longer or a drop of plastic should be applied to ensure adhesion (clutch). If you simply put a cold part next to another, they may separate over time.
☑️ Ready to draw
To create three-dimensional figures, the “frame” method is often used. First, a model skeleton is created from thin lines, which is then overgrown with “muscles” and “skin” from denser layers of plastic. This allows you to save material and maintain the lightness of the structure.
Creating simple shapes: step-by-step algorithm
To reinforce your skills, try creating a simple geometric shape, such as a cube or pyramid. Start by drawing a square on the surface, then lift the four vertical edges up. It is important to observe here geometric accuracy, otherwise the top cover will not lie flat.
After the walls are erected, you can begin filling in the edges. Move the handle from side to side, creating a kind of “hatching” with plastic. Don't try to make the layer too thick - it's better to apply two thin layers than one greasy one, which will take a long time to dry.
| Figure | Difficulty | Lead time | Required Skill |
|---|---|---|---|
| Square/Circle | Low | 1-2 min | Basic |
| Cube | Average | 5-7 min | Confident grip |
| Pyramid | Average | 6-8 min | Working in the air |
| Ball | High | 15+ min | Pro |
When creating the roof of a pyramid or the face of a cube, you may need the help of a second hand. Carefully hold the corner of the structure until the plastic hardens completely. Patience - the main tool at this moment, since haste often leads to deformation.
The secret to perfect angles
To keep the corners of the cube square, use a square or any solid object with a right angle as a temporary support, pressing fresh plastic against it.
After completing the figure, inspect it from all sides. If you notice any gaps or irregularities, they can be easily corrected by applying another thin layer of plastic over the top. This is called "finishing" and helps hide minor imperfections.
Typical beginner mistakes and their solutions
Even experienced craftsmen once started with lumps of plastic and crooked lines. One of the most common mistakes is the incorrect angle of the handle. If you hold it at too sharp an angle, the plastic will smear and not lay down as an even thread. The optimal angle is close to 90 degrees relative to the drawing surface.
Another problem is “hair” or thin strands of plastic trailing behind the handle. This happens if you do not stop the flow of material before removing your hand from the part. Train yourself to take a micro-pause or a slight backward movement before putting the tool away.
⚠️ Attention: Never blow on plastic to speed up its hardening. Rapid cooling makes the material brittle and can lead to delamination of the structure in the future.
Often, beginners try to draw objects that are too complex without internal support. Remember the law of physics: no one has canceled gravity. If you are drawing an overhanging element, there must be support underneath it, otherwise it will sag. Use temporary supports made of the same plastic, which can then be removed.
Problems with extrusion (extrusion) are often associated with a dirty nozzle. If the plastic stops flowing evenly, try cleaning the needle (if it is included) or warming the handle to maximum temperature and blowing through the plastic.
The main mistake is the desire to immediately create a complex masterpiece. Start with simple lines and cubes to get a feel for how the plastic behaves and how fast it hardens.
Instrument care and safety
A 3D pen is an electrical device with a heating element that requires careful handling. After finishing work, be sure to wait until the device has cooled down before putting it back in the box. Storing a hot pen in a closed area may damage internal components.
Clean the nozzle regularly to remove carbon deposits. For this, there are special thin needles or paper clips that come with the kit. A clogged nozzle is the number one cause of uneven feed and ragged lines. Also keep the feed mechanism clean by removing dust and plastic crumbs.
- 🔌 Always unplug the device after use to prevent the transformer from overheating.
- 🔌 Do not leave the handle on unattended, especially if there are children or pets in the house.
- 🔌 Store filament in a dry place as moisture can degrade print quality (especially for PLA).
Eye safety is also important: flying pieces of hot plastic can cause burns or damage the mucous membranes. Although this is rare, it is a good idea to be careful, especially when working with high temperatures. ABS plastic.
Is it possible to refill the pen while it is working?
Yes, most models allow you to add plastic as you go. Simply insert a new rod into the feed hole when the old one reaches its end. However, this must be done carefully so as not to get burned on the heated nozzle.
What to do if the plastic is stuck inside?
Don't try to pull it out by force. Preheat the handle to the maximum temperature for this type of plastic and gently pull the rest of the rod. If it doesn’t help, use tweezers, but only after turning off the power and cooling slightly, so as not to damage the Teflon tube.
Why does plastic change color when heated?
Some types of plastic (especially white or light shades) may yellow slightly when exposed to prolonged heat or excessive temperature. This is normal for thermally active materials, but indicates that the temperature should be reduced a little.
How long does the heating element last?
With proper operation and no overload (working at maximum 24/7), the heating element will last for years. The main enemy is sudden temperature changes and mechanical shocks to the body in a hot state.
Can you mix colors in one pen?
Yes, you can create gradients. To do this, wait until the previous color has completely come out of the nozzle and insert a rod of a new color. The first few centimeters will be mixed, which can be used to create color transition effects.