A modern car is hard to imagine without a remote access control system that provides a basic level of comfort and safety. Installation of a central lock (CD) on a vehicle that is not initially equipped with this option is one of the most popular tasks in the field of retrofitting. This is not just a convenience that allows you not to pull the handles of the doors at each parking lot, but also an important element of protection against theft, blocking access to the cabin when driving.
The installation process requires accuracy, basic knowledge of electrical engineering and an understanding of the principles of body electrics. Errors at the stage of laying wires or setting up actuators can lead to a discharged battery or failure of standard control modules. In this article, we will discuss in detail how to choose the right components, wiring and configure the system so that it works faultlessly for many years.
Selection of equipment and preparation for installation
The first step is the competent selection of components, since the durability of the entire system directly depends on their quality. There are many sets on the market, differing in drive type, power and functionality. The main element is actuators (actuators) which may be electromagnetic, pneumatic or electromotor. For most passenger cars, the best choice will be drives with an electric motor, which have sufficient force and reliability.
In addition to the drives themselves, you will need a control unit that will process signals from the remote or key. It is important to pay attention to the number of wires leaving the block: additional wiring is often required to connect to the regular wiring. relay Or diodes. It is also necessary to purchase corrugated wires in advance, high-quality insulation materials (insulating, thermal shrinkage) and copper wire with a cross section of at least 1.5 mm2 for the power unit.
- 🔹 A set of 4 or 5 actuators (actuators) with tractors and fasteners.
- 🔹 Control unit of the central lock with key fobs or remote control.
- 🔹 A set of wires, fuses, relays and terminals for switching.
- 🔹 Tools for dismantling the skin of the doors and interior.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice of cross-section of wires. Using a cable that is too thin can cause it to overheat and melt the insulation at the time of actuation, when the current consumption is maximum. Section 1.5 mm2 It is considered the standard for actuators, whereas 0.5 mm2 is sufficient for signal lines.
Necessary tool and security measures
Quality installation is impossible without a properly selected tool. You will need not only a standard set of screwdrivers and keys, but also specialized equipment for working with electricity. Multimeter It will be your main assistant for finding contacts, checking voltage and circuit integrity. Without it, work at random is fraught with short circuit.
To clean the wires, use a special knife or stripper to avoid damaging the veins, which can lead to their breaking when vibrating. A soldering iron with flux and solder is necessary to create reliable twists that will not oxidize over time. The coiling of wires "on twists" without soldering or using connecting sleeves in the car is unacceptable due to high humidity and temperature changes.
⚠️ Attention! Before starting any work with electricity, be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery. This will prevent accidental short circuits and save your vehicle’s onboard electronics from burning.
Also prepare a set of plastic blades for removing door cards. Using metal tools for these purposes often results in damage to plastic and scratches on interior elements. For pulling wires in hard-to-reach places, hard wire or a special cable will be useful.
Dismantling of door cards and placement of drives
The installation process begins with the careful dismantling of the door lining. Each car has its own nuances of attachment: somewhere screws are used under plugs, and somewhere - only plastic clips. Act carefully, consistently clicking the locks around the perimeter of the card. After removing the skin, you will have access to the inner cavity of the door and the lock mechanism.
The choice of location for the actuator installation depends on the design of the door. The drive should be mounted on a rigid base, parallel to the vector of motion of the thrust of the standard lock. Plunge It should move freely, without distortions and jamming. The wrong angle of installation will lead to the fact that the drive will work with overload and quickly fail.
☑️ Checklist of dismantling and preparation
Secure the actuator using standard holes or drilling new ones (if the design permits), be sure to use growers or counternuts to prevent self-unwinding. Connect the drive thrust to the lock lever so that when the rod is extended, opening or closing occurs. The length of the thrust should be chosen precisely: too short will not allow the lock to close to the end, and too long will create tension in the mechanism.
Nuances of mounting in different doors
In the front doors, it is often more convenient to fasten the drive on the inner panel, using standard holes. In the rear doors or on older models, it may be necessary to make an individual bracket from a metal plate. The main rule is the rigidity of the attachment: the backlash of the actuator itself is unacceptable.
Connection schemes and electrical part
The most difficult step is to connect the electrical circuit correctly. There are several basic control schemes for the central lock: with positive or negative polarity, as well as control through power wires. To connect to a normal system (if any) or to implement the closed/open function, you need to accurately determine the type of signal.
If you install the system from scratch, most often the scheme with tip-off Or mass control. The control unit gives a signal on the relay, which, in turn, supply voltage to the actuators. It is important to observe the polarity of the motors connection, otherwise, when commanded to "open", they will close the door.
| Signal type | Description | Where applicable |
|---|---|---|
| Positive (+) | The signal appears when the +12V is applied | Old cars, simple alarms |
| Negative (-) | The signal appears when connected to the mass | Most modern cars |
| Variable | Another polarity shift | Electrically powered glass systems |
| CAN bus | Digital data signal | Modern cars (requires a decoder) |
For switching power circuits, use high-quality relays with a margin of current. All connections must be soldered and isolated with thermal shrinkage. Wiring is laid under the mats or in the regular channels, avoiding places where it can be rubbed by moving mechanisms of windows.
Use colored Cambrians or marking tags on the ends of the wires immediately after cleaning. This will save you hours of assembly time when the beam will have a dozen identical black wires, and you will need to quickly figure out which one is going where.
Laying wiring and installation of the control unit
Laying the wires from the doors to the cabin is a critical moment that requires attention. The wires pass through rubber corrugated in the doorways. gufras It protects the stains from moisture and dirt, but also makes it difficult to pull. Use copper wire as a stretcher, tied to it a bundle of wires, and gently drag them, lubricating with a soapy solution for slipping.
The control unit of the central lock is best placed in a hidden but accessible place, for example, behind the dashboard or under a torpedo. The place should be dry and protected from direct sunlight, which can overheat electronic components. Secure the block on double-sided scotch or clamps so it doesn't rattle when riding.
⚠️ Attention! It is strictly forbidden to lay wires in the immediate vicinity of the gas and brake pedals, as well as the steering column. A wire that falls under the pedal can block the control of the car on the go, which is deadly.
Be sure to protect all the wiring. In places of exit from corrugated or passing through metal, use rubber bushings so that the sharp edge of the metal does not cut the insulation over time. All points of entry and exit of wires should be hermetic.
Setup, testing and troubleshooting
After the entire system is assembled, a thorough testing is required. Connect the battery and check the operation of each door separately. Actuators should be triggered clearly, without delay and extraneous sounds. If the motor hum is heard, but the thrust is not moving, then the mechanism is jammed or the thrust is configured incorrectly.
Check the closed-in-movement function (if implemented) and the door-opening response. The system shall not discharge the battery in parking mode. To do this, use a multimeter in ammeter mode connected in series with the battery: the leakage current should not exceed the permissible norms (usually up to 50-70 mA for modern electronics).
The main criterion for successful installation is the same response time of all drives and the absence of a “lack of income” of thrusts to the final positions. If one door slams later than the others, you need to adjust the length of the thrust or check the voltage on a particular drive.
In case of problems, such as spontaneous opening or failure of work, check the weight of the body. Poor contact of the "minus" wire is often the cause of unstable operation of the entire system. Also make sure that the wires are not broken at the places of bending of the door hinges.
What if one of the drives is weaker?
If one of the actuators is running sluggishly or with a delay, check the voltage directly at its terminals at the time of operation. A voltage drop of more than 1-2 volts compared to other drives will indicate poor contact in the wiring, oxidation of the terminals or too thin wire in this area.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I install a central lock without drilling the doors?
In most cases, it will not be possible to completely avoid drilling, since the regular holes may not coincide with the fasteners of new actuators. However, there are universal sets with adaptive mounts that allow the drive to be fixed on the internal elements of the door without damaging the metal using existing bolts of the window lifter or lock mechanism.
How long does it take to install the CZ with your own hands?
For a beginner with a basic set of tools, the process will take 4 to 8 hours, including time for neat dismantling and installation. Experienced masters cope in 2-3 hours. Time depends heavily on the design of the car and the need to remove the torpedo for laying wires.
Do I need to register the installation of a central lock in the traffic police?
No, the installation of additional equipment, such as a central lock, does not constitute a change in the design of the vehicle requiring changes to the PTS or registration certificate, as this does not affect the safety and technical characteristics of the vehicle.
Why did the central castle stop working in the winter?
A common cause is freezing of the lock mechanism or thickening of the lubricant in actuators. It is also possible to oxidize the contacts in the corrugated door due to moisture. It is recommended to use non-freezing lubricant for locks and check the tightness of door seals.