Comfort in a modern car consists of many small things that often go unnoticed until they are not enough. One of these systems is automatic door closing, or as they are often called, closers. Installation of the closers on the car door Turns a normal slamming sound into a smooth, almost silent flap movement, creating a premium feel even in budget models.
Many drivers are faced with a situation where the door appears closed, but the lock has not actually snapped to the end due to weak effort. This can lead to the door opening on the go or an alarm about an open opening. Pointer drive solves this problem by gently and confidently bringing the door to a complete closing at the last minute before the lock is triggered.
In this article, we will discuss in detail the process of selecting, installing and configuring the system. You will learn what types of drives exist, how to integrate them properly into the regular wiring and what to look for when you are in the process of doing so. fitterSo the system can run for years without failure.
Principle of operation and types of automatic closing systems
The essence of any closer is to create an additional effort in the final stage of closing the door. When the user slams the door, but does not apply sufficient force to completely snap the lock, the case comes into play. electric. It pulls the lock mechanism inwards, imitating a strong movement of the human hand.
There are two main types of systems that differ in operation principle and installation location. The first type is retracting mechanisms that are mounted directly at the end of the door or in the space behind the skin. They physically pull the back of the lock on the body rack or the door itself.
The second type is the system that is integrated into the lock itself. In this case, the standard mechanism is replaced by a reinforced one with a built-in motor. This option is often found in the factory configurations of luxury cars, but there are universal aftermarket solutions.
- 🚗 Mechanical closers: work from the closing energy, require strong cotton, now rare.
- ⚡ Electric actuators: use a motor, are controlled by a comfort unit, provide a smooth ride.
- 🔌 Combined systems: combine the functions of the closer and the electric opening drive.
⚠️ Attention: The use of cheap mechanical closers can lead to premature wear of the door hinges and deformation of the body due to sharp impact loads.
The choice of the type of system depends on the design of the doors of your car. For most modern cars, the best solution is wind-finder with a separate control unit that can be configured for yourself.
Necessary tools and preparation for installation
Quality fitting It requires careful preparation. Before starting to dismantle the skins, you need to make sure that all the necessary equipment is available. The absence of even one special tool can delay the process for several hours or lead to the breakdown of plastic clips.
First of all, you will need a set to remove the skins. Plastic in modern cars is very delicate, and the use of a regular screwdriver is guaranteed to leave scratches or chips. Use special plastic blades and pistons removers.
It is also critical to prepare tools for working with electricity. You will need a multimeter to search for control signals and check the voltage. Without it, the connection to the comfort unit will be made by the pump method, which is unacceptable.
☑️ Checklist for installation
Don’t forget about the material for fixing the wiring. Wires laid inside the door are subject to vibration and temperature changes. Cable products It should be securely fixed so as not to rub against the sharp edges of the metal.
- 🔧 Toolkit: screwdrivers, keys, tenants.
- 🔌 Electric: multimeter, soldering iron or crimping mites.
- 🛡️ Consumers: tape, screeds, lubricant for hinges.
Dismantling of door lining and access to machinery
The process begins with a careful removal of the door map. This is the most important stage, where mistakes are often made by beginners. Door lining It is mounted on latches and screws hidden under decorative plugs.
Unscrew all visible screws first: they are usually in the opening handle, in the speaker niche, and sometimes under the windowstop button. Then you can start removing the map itself.
Insert a plastic blade at the junction between the card and the metal of the door. Movements should be confident, but not sharp. The characteristic click of a clicking clip is a normal phenomenon. Move around the perimeter of the door, gradually releasing the locks.
⚠️ Warning: Never pull the door map sharply upwards or on yourself without making sure all screws are twisted. This can break the plastic guide sled window lifter.
After removing the card, disconnect the speaker connectors, windows and backlights buttons. Now you have access to the interior of the door, where it will take place. finisher.
Nuances of removing the skin on different cars
On some models (e.g. BMW or VAG) after the card is removed, it may be necessary to unscrew an additional metal frame or remove the moisture shield film. Be prepared to carefully remove the film and then glue it back to maintain the sealed door.
Selection of location of the finisher drive
Determining the anchor point is a key point. The pointer It should be set so that its thrust acts as efficiently as possible without creating distortions. Most often, installation is made at the bottom of the door, closer to the lock.
There are several installation schemes. The first is the attachment to the inner metal frame of the door. In this case, the motor body is fixed on the metal, and the cable or thrust goes to the lock mechanism. This is the most common option for universal sets.
The second scheme involves integration into the space behind the lock. It is important not to disrupt the windows and the mechanism of adjusting the mirrors, if they pass in this area. Engine dimensions They can be very important, so fitting before drilling is mandatory.
When choosing a place, note that the drive should not interfere with the lowering of the glass to the lowest position. Also avoid areas where moisture accumulates, although most modern actuators have protection. IP54 Or higher.
- 📍 Lower part of the door: classic place, minimal interference with the structure.
- 🔩 Amplifier fastening: Provides rigid fixation but requires drilling.
- 🔗 Integration into the lock: requires the selection of a closer model for a specific type of lock.
Before the final fixation of the engine "deadly", lay temporary wires and check the mechanism when the door is closed. Make sure the thrust does not snag and the door closes the first time.
Connection scheme and electrical part
The electrical circuit of the closers is usually quite simple, but requires care. The main components: motor gearbox, control unit and end (or use of the standard door end). The power is most often taken from the battery through a fuse.
The most important aspect is the control of the closing signal. The system must know when the door is already closed so that the engine is turned off and not burned. This is done by using a signal from the end of the door or from the lock itself.
Connection to the standard wiring is better performed by soldering with subsequent isolation or using high-quality crimping connectors. The twists in the door are evils that will sooner or later oxidize and lead to system failure.
Typical connection scheme:1. Red wire -> Plus battery (via safety 10A)
2. Black wire -> Mass (body of car)
3. Blue wire -> Signal of the end of the door (minus when opening)
4. Yellow wire -> Lock control (optional)
If you install a system with a central comfort unit, the connection can be made via a CAN bus. In this case, you need to program the block for a specific brand of car, which is done through a laptop.
| Parameter | Meaning | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Power tension | 12 volts. | Races up to 14.5V are allowed |
| Current consumption | up to 10 Amps | At the moment of operation of the engine |
| Time to work. | 3-5 seconds | The refinement cycle |
| Traction force | 30-50 kg | Depends on the model. |
After connecting, be sure to check the polarity. An error in polarity can instantly disable the control unit or the motor itself.
Adjustment, configuration and testing of the system
The final stage is to adjust the sensitivity and working time. Control unit often has adjustable screws or the ability to configure through software. Do not put the maximum effort immediately, it will lead to a loud pop.
Optimal setting assumes that the closer starts working only at the last moment, when the door is almost closed. If the system works too early, it will interfere with the normal hand closing.
Conduct a series of test closings. The door should close gently, without jerking. If a grinding or hum is heard, check the rope tension and the absence of friction against the metal parts.
⚠️ Note: When setting up, make sure that the system does not attempt to bring an already closed and locked door. This can lead to a break in the lock mechanism or a break in the thrust.
A properly tuned closer should be almost invisible in the work: it only slightly helps the hand at the last minute, eliminating the need to slam the door.
Don’t forget to assemble the door in reverse order, checking the windows and speakers. No extra parts should remain after assembly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is it difficult to install the scoring machines without experience?
The basic installation of a universal kit requires tool skills and an understanding of the basics of electrics. If you can set an alarm or music, you can do it. If you have never taken off the door cards, it is better to start with the study of theory or contact a pro.
Does the installation of the finishers affect the warranty of the car?
Formally, any interference with the regular wiring can be a reason to deny the warranty for electricians. However, if the connection is made competently, without "screws" and damage to the regular harnesses, dealers can rarely prove the involvement of the closers to the breakdown.
Can I install all 4 doors at once?
Yes, most control units support 4-drive connection. However, this will require more complex wiring around the cabin and possibly installing a more powerful power supply.
What happens if the battery goes down?
The clerk will stop working because they require electricity. The doors can be closed manually as usual, without the effect of soft bringing. The mechanics of the castle will remain fully functional.