Installing speakers in the rear parcel shelf is one of the most popular ways to improve the sound of a car audio system. This method allows not only to expand the range of reproduced frequencies, but also to create surround sound without radically altering the interior. However, improper installation can result in distortion, vibration, or even damage to the shelf. In this article we will analyze all the stages - from choosing speakers to final setup, taking into account the nuances of different types of cars and speaker systems.
The peculiarity of the rear shelf is that it often serves as a resonator, enhancing low frequencies. But without proper sound insulation and sealing, this advantage can result in βboomingβ and loss of clarity. We'll tell you how to avoid common mistakes: from the wrong speaker diameter to the wrong connection to the radio. Weβll also share life hacks for setting up an equalizer for specific genres of music.
The article will be useful for both beginners and experienced car enthusiasts. Beginners will find here step-by-step instructions with photo examples, and experienced ones will find tips on fine-tuning and choosing components for Hi-Fi systems. Don't miss the section with a comparison table of speakers from different brands and a checklist for preparing for installation!
Selecting speakers: which ones are suitable for the rear shelf
The first and most important step is choosing speakers. Here you need to take into account not only the budget, but also rear shelf design, audio system type (coaxial or component) and desired sound profile. For example, for bass music, speakers with a large diameter (16β18 cm) are better suited, and for classical or jazz, speakers with a wide frequency range and soft suspensions are better suited.
Leading among brands Focal, Alpine, Pioneer and JBL, but there are also budget options from Kicx or Mystery. Pay attention to the parameters:
- π Sensitivity (dB): the higher, the louder the sound at the same power. Optimal is 90β93 dB.
- π Diameter: standard sizes are 13, 16, 17 and 18 cm. Measure the seat before purchase!
- π Power (RMS): Must match the output power of the amplifier or radio. For example, 50W RMS speakers should not be connected to a 100W amplifier.
- π΅ Frequency range: For full sound, look for models with coverage from 50 Hz (low frequencies) to 20 kHz (high frequencies).
If your radio supports component acoustics (separate woofers and tweeters), consider this option - it gives cleaner sound. But for the rear shelf, coaxial speakers (all in one housing) are often chosen because of ease of installation. The exception is premium systems, where component acoustics are mounted even at the rear to create a stereo effect.
Preparing the rear shelf: marking and soundproofing
Before installing the speakers, the rear shelf needs to be prepared. Start with dismantling the casing - it is usually attached to plastic clips or screws (depending on the car model). Remove it carefully so as not to damage the latches. If the shelf is metal, check for rust - if necessary, clean and treat with anti-corrosion agent.
Next - markings for speakers. Use the template that comes with the kit, or make your own from cardboard. Important:
- π Step back at least 2-3 cm from the edges of the shelf to avoid vibrations.
- π Check whether structural elements (such as the fuel tank or rear pillars) are interfering with the speakers.
- βοΈ Symmetry is the key to the correct stereo effect. Measure the distance from the center of each speaker to the side walls.
Soundproofing is a critical stage. Without it, the sound will be βdullβ, and vibrations will be transmitted to the body. Use materials:
- π§² Bitoplast or Splen - for gluing metal surfaces.
- π§΅ Wilton or Accent - for covering plastic panels.
- π Damping mats (for example, StP) - to dampen vibrations.
Before gluing sound insulation, clean the surface of the shelf with alcohol - this will improve adhesion and prevent the materials from peeling off.
Tools and materials: what you will need for installation
To install speakers in the rear shelf, prepare the following set of tools:
| Category | Tools/materials | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basic Tools | Drill, metal/plastic drills, jigsaw, screwdrivers (phillips, flat), pliers | For cutting holes for speakers |
| Power tools | Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink tube, tester | To connect wires |
| Consumables | Self-tapping screws, sealant, electrical tape, terminals | For fastening and insulation |
| Soundproofing | Bitoplast, Splen, damping mats | Optional, but recommended |
| Additionally | Caliper, marker, ruler, knife | For precise marking |
If you are installing speakers for the first time, get a set of drill bits with a depth stop - this will help avoid damaging internal body parts. To connect wires, use copper multicore cables cross section of at least 1.5 mmΒ². Avoid twisting - it is better to solder or use crimp terminals.
βοΈ Preparation for installation
Step-by-step installation of speakers: from marking to mounting
Now we move on to the most important stage - installation. Follow this instruction:
Cutting holes. Drill starting holes according to the markings (2β3 mm in diameter), then widen them with a jigsaw. Clean the edges with sandpaper or a file. If the shelf is plastic, use wood drills - they will not crack the material.
Laying wires. Route the cables from the speakers to the radio or amplifier, avoiding kinks. Secure them with plastic clamps.
Rule: positive wire is red, negative wire is black.Installation of speakers. Insert the speaker into the hole and secure it using the included fasteners (usually metal brackets or screws). Do not overtighten the fasteners - this may deform the suspension.
Connection. Connect the wires to the speaker terminals, observing polarity. If you are using an amplifier, connect it according to the circuit (parallel or series, depending on the impedance).
Test run. Play music at medium volume and check the sound. The absence of wheezing and distortion is a sign of correct installation.
If the speakers βboomβ at low frequencies, check the tightness of the mount. Often the problem is solved by gluing the joints with sealant or installing rubber gaskets between the speaker and the shelf.
What to do if the speaker does not sound?
1. Check the polarity of the connection (plus to plus, minus to minus). 2. Make sure the wires are not damaged or shorted. 3. Check the radio settings: the rear channels may be disabled. 4. If you are using an amplifier, check its settings (gain level, crossover).
Connecting to a radio or amplifier: diagrams and nuances
The connection method depends on your audio system. Let's consider three options:
1. Connect directly to the radio. If your radio has outputs for rear speakers (usually marked as REAR LEFT/RIGHT), connect the wires according to the diagram:
- π΄ Red (+) - to the positive terminal of the speaker.
- β« Black (β) - to the negative terminal.
Use standard ISO connectors or solder the wires directly. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity, otherwise the sound will be βinside the headβ (the phase will shift).
2. Connection via amplifier. If the speakers are powerful (from 60 W RMS), it is better to connect them through an amplifier. Scheme:
- π Radio outputs (
RCA) β amplifier inputs. - π Power supply to the amplifier (+12V) β from the battery through a fuse.
- π Control wire (
REM) β from the antenna output of the radio. - π Amplifier outputs β to speakers.
3. Crossover connection (for component speakers). strong> If you have component speakers, use a crossover to separate the frequencies between the woofer and the tweeter. Connection:
- ποΈ Crossover input - from an amplifier or radio.
- π Exit
WOOFER- to the subwoofer. - π€ Exit
TWEETER- to the high-frequency speaker.
When connecting through an amplifier, always install a fuse on the positive power supply wire - this will protect the system from a short circuit.
If after connecting the sound is distorted at high volume, check:
- π Is the amplifier/radio power sufficient for the speakers.
- π Is it configured correctly?
LPF/HPF(low/high pass filters) on the amplifier. - π Are there any short circuits in the wires (use a tester).
Sound settings: equalizer, balance and phasing
Even perfectly installed speakers will sound bad without the correct setup. Start with balance and fader:
- ποΈ
Balance: Set to β0β to distribute sound evenly. - π
Fader: Adjust so that the sound from the rear does not drown out the front speakers (usually β2...β4).
Next - equalizer setting. There are no universal settings, but there are recommendations:
- π΅ Classical/jazz: Boost the mids (1-4kHz) and slightly reduce the bass (below 100Hz).
- πΈ Rock/metal: Boost bass (60-100Hz) and treble (10-16kHz).
- π€ Rap/hip-hop: Boost the low frequencies as much as possible (40-80Hz), but watch out for distortion.
For fine tuning, use test tracks with pure sine waves (for example, Sweep Tone). This will help identify peaks and valleys in the sound. If your speakers sound "wheezy" at certain frequencies, reduce the level of those frequencies on the equalizer.
Phasing - another important point. If the sound seems "flat", check the phase:
- Turn on mono mode on the radio (if available).
- Change the polarity of the rear speakers one by one.
- Choose the option that produces the clearest bass.
To check phasing, use a track with low frequencies (for example, 50 Hz). If the bass βdisappearsβ when the polarity is changed, the phase is selected correctly.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced installers sometimes make mistakes. Here are the most common:
β οΈ Attention: If the speakers are installed too close to metal parts of the body (such as fuel pipes), vibrations may damage them. Always check the gap is at least 1-2 cm.
1. Wrong choice of speakers. Installing powerful speakers (100+ W RMS) without an amplifier will lead to distortion - the radio will not be able to βdriveβ them. Solution: either use speakers that match the power of the radio, or install an amplifier.
2. Ignoring sound insulation. Without it, the sound will be βdullβ, and vibrations will be transmitted to the body. Minimum set - shelf gluing Bitoplast and installation of damper rings under the speakers.
3. Poor soldering of wires. The twists oxidize over time, leading to signal loss. Always solder connections or use crimp terminals.
4. Failure to comply with polarity. If you confuse β+β and βββ, the sound will be unclear and the bass will be βsmearedβ. Check the polarity with a tester.
5. Tightening the fasteners. This deforms the speaker surround and leads to distortion. Tighten the fasteners evenly, without excessive force.
β οΈ Attention: If, after installing the speakers, a whistle appears in the cabin at high speeds, check the tightness of the door seals. Rarefaction of air can create parasitic noise that masks sound.
FAQ: answers to frequently asked questions
Is it possible to install speakers in the rear parcel shelf without soundproofing?
Technically yes, but the sound will be much worse: low frequencies will be lost and vibrations will appear. Minimal sound insulation (for example, sizing Bitoplast) will improve quality by 30β40%. If you're on a budget, at least install rubber gaskets under the speakers.
What speaker diameter is best for the rear shelf?
Depends on the car model and the desired sound:
- π Small cars (for example, VW Polo, Hyundai Solaris): 13β16 cm.
- π Average (Toyota Camry, Skoda Octavia): 16β17 cm.
- π Large sedans/SUVs (BMW 5-series, Kia Sorento): 18 cm.
Measure your seat before purchasing! In some machines (for example, Lada Vesta) standard size is 13 cm, but the hole can be expanded to 16 cm.
Do I need to change the radio when installing new speakers?
Not required, but:
- If the radio is older than 5 years, it may not realize the potential of the new speakers (especially if their power is higher than 50 W RMS).
- Modern radios (for example, Pioneer DEH-S4200BT or Alpine UTE-73BT) support equalizer settings and crossovers, which is important for high-quality sound.
- If you have a standard radio without amplifier outputs, for powerful speakers you will need line output converter (LOC).
How to avoid rear shelf vibrations?
Vibrations occur due to resonance. Solutions:
- Set the speakers to damper rings (for example, from porous rubber).
- Glue the shelf vibration-absorbing material (for example, StP Gold).
- Reduce power at low frequencies (adjust
LPFamplifier or equalizer). - Check the rigidity of fastening the shelf to the body - sometimes additional fixation with self-tapping screws helps.
Is it possible to install a subwoofer instead of speakers in the rear parcel shelf?
Technically it's possible, but it's not an optimal solution:
- β Pros: saves space in the trunk, easy installation.
- β Cons:
- The rear shelf is not designed for low subwoofer frequencies - there will be strong vibration.
- The sound of the subwoofer should be directed into the cabin, and the shelf often βlooksβ into the trunk.
- For high-quality bass, you need a voluminous body that wonβt fit on a shelf.
It is better to install full-range speakers in the shelf, and place the subwoofer in the trunk or under the seat.