Finding the exact shade to paint chips or paint the item fully is a task that requires maximum care, especially when it comes to popular color. silver-colored. This shade remains one of the most popular in the automotive market for more than two decades, which creates a paradoxical situation: it is easy to find a car of this color, but it is extremely difficult to find the perfect paint for repair due to the huge number of variations.
The problem is that different manufacturers have the same visual shade can be called differently and have completely different numerical designations. Moreover, even within the model range of one brand, the code can vary depending on the year of production and the manufacturer. Owners need to understand that just buy a can with the inscription "silver" - it is to guarantee the result that will differ from the main body, creating the effect of "battle".
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to find the right one. paint-number For your car, consider the tables of compliance for the world's leading brands and discuss the technical nuances of working with metallized enamel. You will learn why visual comparison is often wrong and how professionals approach the question of coloring.
Where to find the color code of the car
The first action that the owner must take before going to the auto-enamell store is to find a factory plate or sticker with a VIN code and color data. The location of these (signatures) is strictly regulated by manufacturers, but varies depending on the brand and model. Most often, the information is duplicated in the technical passport, but for accurate selection it is better to focus on physical marks on the body.
Most European manufacturers, such as Volkswagen, Audi and BMWThe code plate is usually located in the opening of the driver's door, on the central pillar of the body or under the hood, next to the spanger. The color code is often denoted by abbreviations such as LA7Z, LY7C Or just a digital index. It is important not to confuse the body color code with the interior color code, which may be nearby.
Japanese and Korean cars, for example Toyota, Honda or HyundaiOften have a color code sticker directly on the door counter or in the hood space, sometimes next to the shock absorber cup. American brands, such as Ford or Chevrolet, data can be embossed on a metal plate in the doorway where you want to look for the field EXT PNT (Exterior Paint) If the sticker is erased or missing, the code can be found by the VIN code through specialized online directories, although this method is less reliable due to possible factory changes in the manufacturing process.
Popular codes of light silver metallic by brand
Light silver metallic is not one specific color, but a whole range of shades that can go into cold blue, warm yellow or neutral gray spectrum. Below is a table with the most common codes that are often confused or searched for restoration.
| Brand | The name of the shade | Paint code. | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Toyota | Classic Silver Metallic | 1F7 | Neutral silver, very popular |
| Volkswagen | Reflex Silver Metallic | LY7C | Bright, cold silvery gloss |
| BMW | Titansilver Metallic | 354 | Deep, dark silvery tide |
| Honda | Nighthawk Black Pearl | NH731P | Black with silver metal (for comparison) |
| Ford | Ingot Silver Metallic | U3 | Classic light metallic |
Please note that the code 1F7 Toyota is one of the most popular in the world, but even it has its own modifications depending on the year. Similarly, the code LY7C Volkswagen may have visual differences on different models due to its lacquer technology and metal particle size. That is why when buying paint in the store, always dictate the code in its entirety, including letters and numbers.
There are also rare shades that can be withdrawn from production. In such cases, it is almost impossible to find a finished spray spray paint, and the only solution is computer selection. In this case, the colorist will focus not only on the code, but also on the current state of the burned out car body to minimize the difference.
Why doesn’t the code guarantee 100% hit?
Factory paint is applied by robots in ideal conditions with observance of temperature and humidity. When repairing in a service or garage, conditions may differ, and the paint itself, even of one code, but of different batches of release, may have microscopic differences in tone. In addition, the factory paint fades under the influence of ultraviolet light over the years of operation, and the new enamel will look brighter.
Nuances of computer selection of paint
When the exact code of the paint is found, but there is no ready-made solution in the can, or the car has gone through repainting earlier, computer selection comes to the rescue. This is the process by which a colorist mixes different formulation-based pigments to recreate the original hue. For light silver metallic, this process is one of the most difficult.
The main difficulty of working with metallized paints is the presence of aluminum powder (metallic) in the composition. Metal particles reflect light at different angles, creating a transfusion effect. When selecting a computer, it is important to take into account not only the color of the base, but also the size of the metal particles, their shape and concentration. An error in proportion even 1-2 grams can lead to the fact that in the sun the part will look lighter or darker than the main body.
Professional selection always includes the procedure of "painting" and drying of the control sample. The colorist applies the selected paint to the metal plate, dries it and compares it with the car body in different lighting. Only after the approval of the sample by the client is mixed the required volume of enamel. This ensures that you get the material as close to reality as possible, not just a theoretical color catalog.
Always ask the colorist to encase paint with a small margin (10-15%). This will avoid a situation where the material is not enough for the last layer, and to dokoloryat exactly in the same shade "by eye" or on the remains in the cup is extremely difficult.
Technology of application and drying of metal
Repair of light silver metallic requires strict adherence to the application technology, as this color ruthlessly reveals any defects in preparation and painting. The process is usually divided into several stages: surface preparation, application of the base layer (base) and coating with varnish.
The base layer is applied by the method of "wet-wet" in several stages. The first layer is binder and is applied thinly to avoid undercurrents. The second and third layers (if necessary) are applied taking into account the overlap of the previous one. The critical point is the size of the spray torch and the distance to the surface. Too close application can "lift" the metal, making the spot dark, and too far - lead to dry spraying, when the metal does not lie correctly and will differ in hue.
Between the layers of the base it is necessary to withstand interlayer drying, the time of which depends on the air temperature and the solvent used. It's usually 10-15 minutes. After drying the base (it becomes matte), acrylic lacquer is necessarily applied. Lacquer protects the metal from oxidation and gives depth to the color. Drying of the varnish can occur naturally or in the drying chamber at a temperature of 60 ° C.
☑️ Quality control of painting
Problems of transitions and differences in shades
Even with the right code and quality matching, local repairs (such as painting a door or wing) often have the problem of a visible transition. Light silver metallic is particularly sensitive to the direction of stacking of aluminum particles. If the particles lie differently on the next part, it will look different.
To minimize this effect, the masters use a technique called "stuffing" or "transition". The essence of the method is that the new layer of paint does not break off abruptly at the border of the part, but is gradually reduced to nothing on the neighboring element using a special solvent-transmitter. This makes the boundary between old and new paint invisible to the human eye.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to paint only the center of the scratch or chip on a large plane without staining. On metallic, such a spot will be visible as a "bald spot" or, conversely, as a dark spot, since the direction of metal particles in the repair area will differ from the general direction on the body.
Another reason for the difference may be the age of the car. For 5-7 years of operation, the body burns out by 10-15%. The new paint, even selected by code, will look fresh and brighter. In such cases, a complex coloring is required, taking into account the degree of burnout, or a complete repainting of adjacent elements to equalize the tone.
Care for light silver metallic
Light shades, despite popular opinion, require no less, and sometimes more care than dark. On silver metallic perfectly visible bitumen crumb, traces of insects and road dirt, which over time can eat into the varnish. In addition, the oxidation of metal powder can lead to the appearance of matteness and loss of shine.
To maintain the color saturation and depth of the overflow, it is recommended to use specialized shampoos with a wax component and (regularly) apply protective polishes or ceramic coatings. Polishing with abrasive compositions should be carried out with caution so as not to remove too much varnish, especially on the ribs and sharp edges of the body, where the layer of the LCD is thinner.
The use of automatic washers with aggressive chemistry can lead to rapid clouding of the lacquer layer. For light silver metallic, hand washing or self-service washing using soft water and high-quality chemistry intended for cars with metallic coating is preferable.
Regular treatment of the body with protective wax or “liquid glass” not only improves the appearance, but also creates a barrier that prevents dirt from sticking and simplifies subsequent washings.
Can you mix paint from different manufacturers if the color code is the same?
It's not recommended. The chemical composition of the base (alkyd, acrylic, urethane) and solvents in different brands may differ. Mixing can lead to paint curling, changing drying time, loss of adhesion, or change in hue. Use the products of one system or strictly follow the recommendations of the colorist.
How long does light silver metallic dry?
The base layer dries to a stick for 15-30 minutes at a temperature of +20 ° C. The varnish gains primary strength in 2-4 hours, but full polymerization (drying to the possibility of washing) takes from 7 to 14 days in vivo. In a chamber at 60°C, the process is accelerated to 40-60 minutes.
Why can metal “surface” or “sink” after painting?
This depends on the viscosity of the paint, the pressure in the spray gun and the amount of solvent. If you add too much solvent, the metal particles will sink deep into the layer and the color will become darker. If a little - the metal will float to the surface, making the color lighter and coarser. Strict control of proportions is required.