The aggressive environment in which a modern car is operated dictates its strict conditions of care for the appearance of the car. Wheel drives take the brunt of the blow: calipers hot from braking, dirt flying from under the wheels, reagents from the roads and, of course, brake dust. It is the latter factor that is the main enemy of aesthetics, since metal dust from the wearable pads is eaten into the lacquer coating and metal pores.
Specialized disk-cleaner It is not just a βchemistryβ but a necessary tool to maintain the integrity of the coating and extend the life of the wheels. Conventional car shampoo is often powerless before thermal soda and metal oxides, so the use of specialized formulations becomes an alternative solution for a high-quality result. In this article, we will discuss what types of cleaners are and how to use them.
The modern market offers a huge number of options, from budget aerosols to professional concentrates that are diluted with water. The choice depends on the material of your discs (cast, forged, stamped) and the degree of contamination. Properly selected chemistry is able to work wonders, returning the factory shine even dark alloys from time to time.
Types of pollution and principles of their removal
Before you grab the can, you need to understand the nature of pollution. Brake dust is microscopic metal particles from pads and discs that are sintered and oxidized under the influence of high temperature. They are stuck bitumen, road dust and rubber residues. Disc cleaner It must be able to break down these complex compounds without damaging the lacquer coating or the metal itself.
Most effective means work on the principle of pH neutrality or a weakly acid reaction, which allows you to dissolve iron oxides. However, there are alkaline formulations that do a great job with oil film and bitumen, but can be dangerous for some types of coatings. It is important to know the composition of your wheel so as not to make the situation worse.
There are several types of pollution that must be dealt with:
- π Brake dust: The main enemy, giving the discs a dark, rusty plaque.
- π’οΈ Oil stains and bitumen: Sticky contaminants that are not washed away by water.
- π§ Road reagents: salt deposits that cause corrosion of stamped disks.
Before applying any chemistry, be sure to cool the discs. The hit of the active composition on the hot metal can cause instant drying and the formation of difficult spots.
Using inappropriate chemicals can lead to clouding of the varnish or even chemical burn of the surface. Always read the instructions on the package and test in an inconspicuous area.
Classification of means for cleaning disks
All funds can be divided into two large groups: acid and alkaline (or neutral). Acid cleaners have a high penetrating ability and perfectly remove rust and old brake dust. They often change color when reacting with iron, which visually demonstrates the cleaning process.
Alkaline and neutral compositions are softer. They are designed to regularly care for and remove fresh contaminants. Such means are safe for chrome elements, polished aluminum and rubber tires. Concentrates They are often of this type, allowing you to save money with large volumes of work.
Comparison of the main characteristics of different types of cleaners:
| Type of instrument | Basis | Efficiency | Security |
|---|---|---|---|
| acidic | Acids | High (for rust) | It requires caution. |
| Alkaline. | Alkalis/surfactants | Medium (for mud) | Safe for rubber |
| Neutral. | PAV | Low (for dust) | Maximum |
For complex cleaning, a two-phase method is often used: first, an acid cleaner is applied to remove metal particles, wash it off, and then an alkaline shampoo is used for finishing and degreasing.
Technology of proper cleaning of wheels
The process of washing wheels requires consistency. First, it is necessary to knock down the main dirt with water under pressure so that the abrasive particles of sand do not scratch the surface during further processing. Then applied. brake-drive cleaner Or the wheels in general.
It's important to let the chemistry work. Exposure time is usually 2 to 5 minutes, but do not allow the product to dry on the surface. If the composition dries, it can leave the divorces, which will have to be removed mechanically. For hard-to-reach places, such as the inside of the disc, it is convenient to use special brushes with a long handle.
βοΈ Disk washing algorithm
After flushing the chemistry, it is recommended to wipe the disc with a microfibre dry. Moisture residues may contain residues of reagents that will continue to destroy the metal even after washing. This is especially true for the winter period of operation.
Protecting Discs After Cleaning
A clean disk is half the battle. To keep the result longer, and the next wash was easier, it is necessary to apply a protective coating. Ceramic coatings For discs, a strong hydrophobic layer is created that repels dirt and brake dust. Thanks to this, the nagar does not have time to penetrate deeply into the pores of the varnish.
There are also special waxes and sealants. They are less durable than ceramics, but easier to apply and are cheaper. Regular use of such means (every 1-2 months) allows you to maintain a neat appearance of the wheels without aggressive chemistry.
β οΈ Warning: Do not apply protective compounds to hot disks or direct sunlight. This will lead to an uneven distribution of the layer and the appearance of rainbow spots.
If there are chipped varnish on the discs, before applying protection, it is desirable to preserve them with a transparent varnish or a special pencil to stop the development of corrosion under the protective layer.
Mistakes in the selection and use of chemistry
The most common mistake is the use of aggressive acidic agents to clean discs with a decorative coating "under chromium" or polished aluminum without varnish. Acid can instantly blacken aluminum, and it will be extremely difficult and expensive to restore it.
The second mistake is ignoring the internal part of the disk. Many owners wash only the front part, forgetting that from the inside brake dust accumulates in even larger quantities. This leads to uneven heating and possible disk beat in the future.
- β Use of abrasive sponges and metal brushes.
- β The use of solvents (acetone, gasoline) to remove bitumen on lacquered disks.
- β Applying wax on a dirty surface (there will be no effect).
What happens if you use acid on chromium?
Chromium is a thin layer of metal. The acid penetrates through the microcracks and begins to erode the base, causing chromium detachment ("crawling"). Restore such a disk can only be a complete repainting.
Always check the compatibility of the tool with the type of your drives. If the package says "not suitable for polished aluminum", it is better not to risk.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an engine cleaner for disks?
Technically possible, since both products often have an alkaline base and remove fat well. However, engine cleaners may be too aggressive to lacquer the discs and tire sidewall rubber. It is better to use specialized tools.
How often should I wash the disks?
Ideally, at every car wash. Brake dust contains metal salts, which, in the presence of moisture (rain, snow), trigger the corrosion process. The more often you wash off this plaque, the longer your drives will live.
How to clean disks if there are no special tools?
You can use a car shampoo with a high content of surfactants and a soft brush. To remove bitumen stains, a special bitumen remover (antisilicone) is suitable, but it must be quickly washed off. Folk methods with vinegar or citric acid are risky due to the complexity of the dosage.
Is chemistry bad for rubber?
Specialized disc cleaners are usually safe for modern rubber. However, prolonged exposure to aggressive acids or alkalis can lead to microcracks and a change in the color of the sidewall of the tire ("whitening"). After washing the discs, it is advisable to rinse with water along with the tire.