Creating a high-quality knitted product is not only a correctly selected yarn or a complex pattern, but also the ability to competently connect individual parts of the canvas. Even the most beautiful jacket will lose its appearance if the seams will tighten the fabric, lumpy or, conversely, gape holes. Many beginners underestimate the importance of the assembly stage, believing that knitted-stitch It's just a mechanical fastening of the edges.
In fact, the choice of the connection method directly affects how the product will sit on the figure, how elastic it will be and how long it will last. In this article, we will discuss the basic techniques that will turn your handmade into a professional job. You will learn to choose a needle, thread and method that matches the type of yarn and pattern of your product.
There are several fundamental approaches to connecting parts: machine-seam, loop, slug-in-the-loop seam and vertical-seam. Each of them has its own application features. For example, for shoulder seams, one method is often used, and for lateral seams - a completely different one. Understanding these nuances will help you avoid typical mistakes.
Preparation of tools and materials
Before starting the assembly of the product, it is necessary to prepare the workplace. You'll need quality. knitting-needle with a blunt tip so as not to split the yarn threads. Needles come in different sizes, and it is important to choose one that will pass freely through the loops, but will not be too wide for the chosen thread.
The color of the thread for crosslinking should perfectly coincide with the color of the main canvas. If you are knitting from natural wool, it is better to use the same yarn from which the product is related. However, for very thick yarn or textured threads (for example, a beech), it is better to take a thinner thread of the same color so that the seam is neat and not too voluminous.
You will also need a pin to pull the parts. This is a critical stage that cannot be ignored. Uneven distribution of tissue will lead to distortions that can then be impossible to correct.
If you use wool yarn, slightly moisten the edges of the parts before chipping - this will straighten the fibers and make the seam more even.
In some cases, especially when working with dark yarn, it is recommended to use a contrast thread for temporary sweeping, which is then easy to remove. This helps control the tension of the thread during the work.
Horizontal seam: open hinges connection
Horizontal connection is used when you need to sew two edges with open loops. Most often, this method is used for shoulder seams or when connecting parts connected across. The most common and elastic option is loop-in-the-nose seamwhich is the same structure as the silk.
To perform this seam, the parts are pinned with the front sides to each other or above each other, depending on the convenience. The thread is threaded into the needle, leaving a long tail. The movements of the needle should be strictly vertical, capturing the hinges of the front and rear spoke (or the edges of the parts) alternately.
☑️ Preparation for horizontal seam
It is important to observe the same tension of the thread. If you tighten the seam too much, a scar will form, which will interfere and spoil the appearance. If the thread is too loose, the seam will be fragile. The ideal seam should be slightly more elastic than the canvas itself.
⚠️ Warning: Never use knots to fasten the thread at the beginning and end of the seam on the front side. Hide the tails, prolapse the needle through several hinges of the back side of the finished connection.
There is also a variation of this method. slug-in-the-loop seam. It gives a slightly less noticeable result, since it connects only one half of the extreme loop. This makes the seam flatter, but a little less durable to break.
Vertical seam for the side sides
Connecting the side of the products, where the edge loops are closed or are edge, requires a special approach. Here's the most popular. knitted-stitch. Its essence is to capture the cross threads between the edge and the first loop, creating an invisible connection.
The parts are placed next to each other on a flat surface with the front side up. The needle is inserted under the first transverse thread of one canvas, then under the corresponding thread of another canvas. The movements resemble a snake or a stove. The tension of the thread is adjusted after each few stitches.
This method allows you to maintain maximum elasticity of the canvas, which is critical for oversize products or fitting silhouettes. The seam turns out to be flat and almost imperceptible to the touch.
The Secret of the Perfect Vertical Seam
Grab only one transverse thread. If you grab two or three, the seam will become rigid and form an ugly roller that will clatter.
If you knit with a pattern where the edge loop is not visible or is decorated differently (for example, with a nodule), the principle remains the same: look for a place where you can hook the thread without disturbing the pattern of the main canvas. The main thing is the symmetry of the grips on both sides.
Combination of rubber bands and slats
Cross-linking parts connected by a rubber band (1x1 or 2x2) is a separate task due to the high elasticity of the canvas. A common seam can deprive the rubber band of its properties, making the edge rigid. The method is often used here. joint-stitch Or a special elastic seam.
When stitching a cuff or collar, it is important not to stretch the part during the work. The pins are often followed, but carefully. The thread must be very elastic, sometimes masters add a thin spandex thread to the wool thread or use a special synthetic thread tone.
| Type of connection | Where applicable | Elasticity | Visibility of the seam |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loop in the loop | Shoulders, closed edges | Tall. | Minimum |
| Vertical seam | Boca, sleeves. | Very high. | Invisible. |
| Back the needle seam | Shoulders (for stiffness) | Low. | Notable. |
| Kettle seam | Throats, slats. | Medium | Decorative |
For golf collars or cuffs, which should fit tightly, sometimes use a seam "back needle", but perform it very freely, trying to simulate a knitting loop. For beginners, however, this can be difficult.
When working with 2x2 rubber, it is important to combine the front columns with the front, and the back with the back. Shifting even one loop will catch your eye and break the symmetry of the product.
Dragging sleeves: complex geometry
Dragging the sleeve is one of the most difficult stages in assembling a sweater or cardigan. Here it is necessary to combine the convex part of the sleeve peel with the concave part of the front and back opening. Errors at this stage lead to the fact that the sleeve is swaying or it hangs “bubble”.
The process begins with a thorough cracking. First, we combine the highest pellet point with the shoulder seam. Then distribute the volume of the sleeve evenly along the opening, pinching every 2-3 centimeters. The sleeve fabric may require a light fit (iron with steam) before sewing.
It's best for dragging in. knitted-stitchIt is done on the front side to control the process. The needle is inserted under the edge loops of the openings and the corresponding loops of the pellet. Movements should be smooth, without jerks.
If you knit a product made of very bulky yarn, a joint sleeve can create excess thickness in the shoulder area. In such cases, consider the option of a flat shoulder or sleeve reglan, where the seam goes diagonally and lies more flat.
Decorative seams and finishing touches
Sometimes the seam should not just be invisible, but part of the design. Decorative connections are made by contrast thread, thread of another textured type or using special techniques, such as: "over the edge" seam or cross-stitch.
Such techniques are often used in the boho style or when knitting children's things, where the bright seam adds playfulness. You can use a fluffy thread (mohair, alpaca) to connect parts from smooth wool, creating the effect of a soft scar.
After all the parts are sewn, the product must be steamed. This is the final step that "marries" the thread seam with the main canvas. The villi are straightened, intertwined, and the seam becomes almost indistinguishable.
Steaming the finished product is a mandatory step that masks the small flaws of stitching and gives the knitwear a professional look.
Don’t forget to check the side of the back. All tails of threads should be safely hidden and, preferably, additionally fixed with several stitches so that when wearing and washing they do not get out.
Frequent Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced knitters sometimes make mistakes when assembling products. One of the most common is the use of too long a strand for crosslinking. The thread from constant friction on the knitted canvas begins to rag and thin, which weakens the seam. The optimal length of the thread is 40-50 cm.
Another common problem is ignoring the direction of the shared thread. If you hide or connect the parts with a skewed thread, after the first washing, the product can deform. Always make sure that the vertical rows of loops go strictly vertical.
⚠️ Note: Do not try to sew parts if the edges are very twisted. Be sure to steam or moisten the details before starting work to level the edges.
It is also worth mentioning the mistake of choosing a needle. A sharp sewing needle can cut the yarn thread, especially if it consists of several twisted fibers (like wool or cotton). Use only dull knitted needles.
Which needle is better to choose for thick yarn?
For thick yarn (more than 300 m in 100 g), a special one is best suited plastic-needle with a wide ear and a blunt end. Metal needles may be too slippery for a thick thread, and it will slip out constantly. The size of the needle should correspond to the thickness of the thread so that it easily passes through the loops without stretching them excessively.
Can I sew knitted parts on a sewing machine?
Technically possible, but highly discouraged for hand-knitted products. The machine seam does not have the necessary elasticity and can damage the structure of the loops, making the seam rigid and brittle. The exception is the use of an overlock with an elastic stitch and a special leg for knitwear, but even in this case, the risk of spoiling the thing is high. Manual labor in this case guarantees quality and durability.
What if the thread for stitching is finished in the middle of the seam?
Never tie a knot in the middle of the seam - this will create an ugly thickening. To replace the thread, snip the end of the old thread and the beginning of the new one into the needle at the same time and tie them 2-3 stitches together. Then trim the old ends and continue the seam with a new thread. Hide the ends on the back side, passing them through several loops.