Regular household sewing machine Janome or Brother with a straight stitch, stitches begin to skip or the knitted fabric begins to tear within the first centimeters of stitching - a problem familiar to 80% of beginners. The reason is not a malfunction of the equipment, but improper preparation: a standard No. 80 needle and No. 40 polyester thread, which are suitable for cotton, pierce the loops of knitwear, deforming them. To avoid wavy seams and puffs, just replace the needle with special for elastic fabrics (with a rounded end) and reduce the presser foot pressure by 20-30%. Next, we’ll look step by step at how to set up the machine to work with footer, interlok and a quilt without an overlocker.

Knitwear requires a special approach even on the simplest models of machines like Singer Start 1306 or Juki HZL-27Z>. The main mistake is trying to sew at high speed: elastic fabrics stretch under the needle, which leads to skipping stitches or “chewing” the material with a protractor. The solution is simple: use zigzag stitch 1–1.5 mm wide or elastic straight stitch (if your model has one), and be sure to test the setting on a patch before working with the product.

In this guide you will find:

  • 🔍 How to choose a needle and thread for knitwear (with compatibility table)
  • ⚙️ Step-by-step machine settings: presser foot pressure, thread tension, speed
  • 🧵 Techniques for processing edges without overlock (including zigzag and double needle)
  • ❌ Common mistakes and how to avoid them (with photo examples)
  • 📌 Tips for cutting and working with stretchable fabrics

1. Choosing a needle and thread: why the standard kit is not suitable

Needle universal No. 80/12, which comes in the basic set for most household machines, pierces knitwear fibers, rather than pushing them apart. This leads to:

  • 🧶 Formation of “holes” along the seam (especially noticeable on thin interlock)
  • 🔄 Skipped stitches due to deformation of fabric loops
  • 🧵 Thread breaks when stretching a seam

For knitwear, two types of needles are needed:

Needle type Marking For what fabrics Size
With a rounded end (ballpoint) SUK, SES Cooler, footer, interlock 70/10 or 75/11
With special coating (for elastic fabrics) H-S, H-J Thin knitwear, stretch 65/9 or 70/10
With reinforced point (for thick fabrics) H-M, H-L Double footer, thick interlock 90/14

Choose threads polyester elastic (for example, Gütermann Seraflex or Mettler Metrosene>) or textured (for particularly stretchable fabrics). Cotton threads break when the seam is pulled, and silk threads slip, resulting in uneven stitching. Optimal thickness - №40–50.

⚠️ Attention: Never use needles with a damaged point - they will tear the loops of the knitwear. Check the needle after each bobbin by running your finger from the eye to the point. If you feel burrs, replace them.

2. Sewing machine settings: presser foot pressure, stitch, speed

Even with the right needle, the machine can “chew” knitwear if three key parameters are not adjusted:

  1. Presser foot pressure: Reduce by 20-30% of standard (by Janome this is the regulator on the right, on Brother - lever on the side). For a thin interlock, 1.5–2 kg of pressure is enough, for a footer - 2.5 kg.
  2. Stitch type:
    • 🔹 Zigzag 1–1.5 mm wide and 2–2.5 mm long - a universal option.
    • 🔹 Stretch Straight Stitch (if included in your model) - imitates an overlock stitch.
    • 🔹 Triple stitch (for dense fabrics) - prevents seam stretching.
  • Sewing speed: Do not exceed 30–40% of maximum (at Singer this is 400–500 stitches/min). Knitwear requires smooth movement of the fabric.

    • On machines without a presser foot pressure regulator (for example, Chayka 2M>) use Teflon foot or place a strip of masking tape under the standard foot - this will reduce friction.

    Install a ballpoint or H-S needle|Reduce presser foot pressure by 20–30%|Select a zigzag stitch (1–1.5 mm wide)|Check the upper thread tension (should be looser than for cotton)|Test the stitch on a piece of fabric-->

    3. Techniques for processing edges without overlock

    The absence of an overlocker is not a hindrance: knitted edges can be processed in three ways that will prevent the fabric from stretching:

    • 🔧 Zigzag along the edge: Place a 2-3mm wide zigzag along the cut, pulling the fabric slightly taut. Suitable for footer and cooler.
    • 🧵 Double needle: Use a needle for stretch fabrics (distance between needles 2-4 mm) and a low tension upper thread. Gives a neat seam that imitates a cover stitch.
    • 📏 Bias tape: Cut the jersey trim at a 45° angle and sew with a zigzag stitch. The optimal width of the binding is 3–4 cm.

    To process the neckline or armholes, use elastic band - bias tape (sold in fabric stores). Stretch it when sewing, so that after compression it tightens the edge of the product. On typewriters Pfaff with function IDT (built-in fabric protractor) this is made easier - the system automatically equalizes the tension.

    How to sew elastic without deformation

    1. Mark marks on the elastic with a pencil (every 10 cm).

    2. Align the marks with the marks on the product (eg shoulder seams).

    3. Stitch in a zigzag manner, stretching the elastic 10–15% longer than the cut length.

    4. After stitching, steam the seam with an iron through a damp cloth (temperature: “silk”).

    4. Cutting and preparing knitwear: why the fabric “creeps”

    Knitwear is deformed when cutting due to two factors: incorrect direction of the lobe thread and the use of pins. To avoid distortions:

    • ✂️ Cut fabric only with a rotary knife (or sharp scissors) in the direction of the grain thread (usually along the edge).
    • 📍 Instead of pins, use adhesive tape for fabric or weights (for example, saucers).
    • 🧲 Before opening, iron the fabric with steam (silk mode) - this will stabilize the loops.

    For patterns with stretchable parts (such as cuffs or waistbands), add a 0.5-1cm shrinkage allowance. If you sew from double-sided knitwear (for example, fleece), place the pieces right side in and pin together glue spray (for example, Spray & Fix) to avoid displacement.

    ⚠️ Attention: Never stretch the fabric when cutting - this will lead to deformation of the finished product. If the pattern requires stretching (for example, for fitted items), do this only during the fitting, and not at the cutting stage.

    5. Common mistakes and how to fix them

    Even experienced seamstresses face problems when working with knitwear. Here are the top 5 errors and their solutions:

    Problem Reason Solution
    Wavy seam Upper thread tension too tight Loosen the tension 1–2 notches
    Skipping stitches Dull needle or wrong type Replace the ballpoint needle, check the installation
    The fabric “creeps” under the foot High presser foot pressure or slippery fabric Reduce pressure, use Teflon foot
    The seam breaks when stretched Stitch or cotton thread too long Reduce stitch length to 1.5–2 mm, use polyester thread

    If the machine begins to “chew” the fabric at the beginning of the stitch, check:

    1. Is the needle positioned correctly (the flat side should be at the back).
    2. Are there any burrs on the conveyor teeth (wipe them with alcohol).
    3. Is the thickness of the thread and needle appropriate (for example, for a dense footer you need a 90/14 needle).

    Wavy seams|Skipped stitches|Fabric stretches|Seam pops when worn|Others-->

    6. Practical advice for beginners: from simple to complex

    Start with simple projects to get a feel for knitwear:

    1. Scarf or snood — straight cut, minimal seams.
    2. Sleeveless T-shirt - neck treatment training.
    3. Leggings or shorts - work with elastic cuffs.

    For your first products, choose interlock - it is less stretchable than a cooler and does not curl. Avoid fabrics with a high elastane content (more than 5%) - they require professional equipment.

    💡

    To prevent the seam from stretching when worn, after sewing, iron it through damp gauze (“silk” mode). The steam will fix the threads, and the gauze will prevent the synthetics from melting.

    If the machine cannot handle thick knitwear (for example, double footer), use embroidery paper under the paw. It will prevent the fabric from sagging and make it easier to move. After sewing, the paper is carefully removed.

    7. Caring for knitwear: why seams come apart after washing

    Even a perfectly sewn product can become deformed after the first wash if you do not follow the rules:

    • 🧼 Wash by hand or on a delicate cycle (max. 30°C).
    • 🌀 Do not twist - gently squeeze, wrapped in a towel.
    • 🔥 Iron from the wrong side through an iron (temperature - no higher than 110°C).
    • 🧺 Dry flat on a horizontal surface.

    If the seams still come apart, hem them by hand. elastic seam "back needle" in increments of 2–3 mm. To do this, use a thread Gütermann Seraflex and a knitting needle.

    💡

    The main rule: knitwear should not be stretched when sewing, washing or ironing. Perform all manipulations smoothly, without jerking.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is it possible to sew knitwear on an old Podolsk or Chaika machine?

    Yes, but with reservations:

    • Use a needle ballpoint 75/11 (available at sewing machine stores).
    • Reduce the pressure of the presser foot by placing a 1 mm thick layer of cardboard underneath it.
    • Sew only with a zigzag - a straight stitch will skip loops.
    • Lubricate the machine mechanism after each bobbin (use sewing machine oil).

    It is difficult to process thin knitwear (knitwear) on these machines, but footer or interlock are sewn normally.

    What seam allowance should I use for knitwear?

    Depends on the type of seam:

    • Zigzag or overlock stitch: 0.5–0.7 cm (the fabric does not fray, so a large allowance is not needed).
    • Double needle: 1 cm (part of the allowance will go to the hem).
    • French seam (for thin knitwear): 1.5 cm.

    For stretchable parts (cuffs, waistband), add another 0.3–0.5 cm to the allowance.

    Why does the machine skip stitches only on knitwear, but sews normally on cotton?

    This problem occurs because:

    1. Unsuitable needle: The universal needle pierces the stitches of the knit fabric rather than pushing them apart. Replace with ballpoint.
    2. Speed too high: Knitwear requires slow sewing (max. 400 stitches/min).
    3. Incorrect thread tension: For knitwear, the upper thread should be weaker than for cotton.
    4. Blunt needle: knitting needles dull faster - change after 4-6 hours of use.

    Carry out a test: sew a piece of knitwear with a zigzag with a new needle ballpoint 75/11 at minimum speed. If the problem persists, check the conveyor (the teeth may be worn out).

    How to sew a knitted dress without an overlocker?

    Sequence of actions:

    1. Cut out the pieces with 1 cm allowances. Use glue spray for fixing the fabric.
    2. Sew shoulder and side seams zigzag (width 1.5 mm, length 2 mm).
    3. Treat the neck bias tape made of knitwear (width 3 cm). Stitch with a zigzag, stretching the binding.
    4. For sleeves use double needle (distance 3 mm) - this simulates a covering seam.
    5. Process the hem double fold (1 cm + 1 cm) with adhesive web.

    For a dress made of thin knitwear (knitwear), additionally glue the seams interlining from the wrong side.

    Which machines are best suited for knitwear on a budget of up to 20,000 rubles?

    Top 5 models in terms of price/quality ratio:

    Model Pros Cons Price (2026)
    Brother LS-14s 19 types of stitches, adjustable foot pressure No automatic thread cutter 12 000–14 000 ₽
    Janome 2200XT Metal body, 6 claws included Heavy (7 kg) 18 000–20 000 ₽
    Singer Start 1306 Lightweight, 6 stitches, budget No presser foot pressure regulator 8 000–10 000 ₽
    Juki HZL-27Z Automatic buttonhole, 23 stitches Plastic case 15 000–17 000 ₽
    Bernette 35 Speed adjustment, 23 stitches Difficult to find spare parts 16 000–18 000 ₽

    For knitwear, it is important to have presser foot pressure adjustment and zigzag stitch. In budget models (for example, Singer Start) these functions are missing - you will have to use a Teflon foot and sew at minimum speed.