Well-designed power-cloth It is the heart of the entire power supply system of any building, whether it is a modern apartment or a country cottage. It is here that the distribution of electric current, protection of wiring from overloads and accounting of energy consumed occurs. Errors at the stage of equipment selection or installation can lead to a fire or failure of expensive household appliances.
In this article, we will discuss in detail how to choose the right one. boxing the required size, calculate the number of modules and comply with all the requirements of regulatory documents. You will learn about the differences between interior and exterior installation, and understand why saving on quality materials is unacceptable.
Before you go to the store for components, you need to clearly understand what functions will perform your board. Will it be a simple wiring for several machines or a complex system with an ultrasound, voltage relay and protection against jumps?
The main task is to ensure not only functionality, but also safety of operation. Modern. cupboard They allow us to build a system that will last decades without human intervention, if we approach the issue responsibly.
There are two main types of designs that differ in the way they are installed and in their appearance. The choice of a specific option depends on the material of the walls, the layout of the room and the aesthetic preferences of the owner.
Overhead (outer) panels They are mounted directly on the surface of the wall. They are ideal for wooden houses, garages, country buildings, as well as for cases where wiring is done in an open way or in cable channels. Their advantage is the ease of installation and the ability to upgrade without violating the integrity of the walls.
Embedded (internal) models Preparation of the niche in the wall is required. This solution looks more aesthetically pleasing, since the body is hidden in the thickness of the partition, and only the door remains on the surface. Such structures are often chosen for brick and concrete walls in apartments and private houses with interior decoration.
⚠️ Attention: When installing the built-in shield in the plasterboard partition, it is necessary to provide for the strengthening of the structure with a wooden bar or a metal profile in advance to withstand the weight of the equipment.
The housings are made of plastic or metal. Plastic boxing lighter, cheaper and no current conduction, which reduces the risk of damage when accidentally touched. Metallic cupboard They are stronger, better protected from mechanical damage and often have a higher class of dust protection.
One of the key parameters when choosing is the IP protection class. For dry heated premises (living rooms, corridors) is enough indicator IP31 or IP40. If the shield is installed in the garage, on the street or in the basement, a class at least lower is required. IP54 or IP65.
The size of the shield is determined by the number of modules that need to be placed in it. The standard size of the module is the width of a single-pole automatic switch - 18 mm (1 DIN module). However, in the calculation always need to leave a reserve.
To make a build plan, you will need to list all the necessary elements. Typical. board For a private house or a large apartment may include:
- 🔌 Introductory circuit breaker (2 or 3 poles)
- 📊 Electricity meter (single-phase or three-phase)
- ⚡ Protective shutdown device (RCD) or difavtomats
- 🛡️ Voltage control relay (VCR)
- 🔋 Power limiter or modular contactors
The number of seats on the DIN-rail is calculated taking into account the dimensions of each device. For example, a three-phase meter can take from 6 to 8 modules, and a RCD - 2-4 modules, depending on the manufacturer. Always add 15-20% of the available space for a possible upgrade.
It is important to consider not only the width, but also the depth of the body. If you plan to use combs to connect the machines or twist the wires behind the meter, the depth should be sufficient to close the lid without tension.
⚠️ Warning: Never place the "back-to-back" panel by number of seats. The lack of free space will make it difficult to cool the appliances and make it impossible to add new lines in the future.
For convenience of comparison, consider the popular sizes of the shields and their approximate capacity:
| Typical size (series x seats) | Total number of modules | Recommended application | Depth (roughly) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 x 8 | 8 | Studio apartment, small office | 80-100 mm |
| 2 x 12 | 24 | 1-2 room apartment | 100-120 mm |
| 3 x 18 | 54 | Big apartment, house. | 120-150 mm |
| 4 x 24 | 96 | Cottage, complex system | 150-200 mm |
When choosing a specific model, pay attention to the quality of the plastic. Cheap. boxing From secondary raw materials can have an unpleasant odor, be fragile and turn yellow over time. Quality corpus It must be made of ABS plastic that does not support combustion.
When buying a shield, check the presence of a transparent window on the door - this will allow you to take the meter readings without opening the case, which increases security.
Assembling a shield is a process that requires accuracy and compliance with the sequence of actions. Before starting work, it is necessary to turn off the introductory machine and make sure that there is no voltage on the wires using an indicator screwdriver.
The first step is always to install DIN racks. They are attached to special mounting panels inside the body. If there are several slats, observe the gap between them specified in the instructions to the shield, usually it is a few millimeters for ease of installation.
Then the modular equipment is placed. The devices are fixed on the rack with the help of special latches. The order of placement is usually the following: introductory automatic, counter, voltage relay, RCD / difautomats, group automatic machines.
☑️ Checklist for assembling the shield
Pay special attention to connecting ground and zero. For this purpose, brass tires are used, which are attached to insulators or directly to the metal panel (for grounding). Zero tyre It should be isolated from the body.
Connection of automatic machines is most convenient to perform using a copper comb. This provides reliable contact and a neat look. If there is no comb, use wire segments of the same cross section as the inlet cable, connecting them with jumpers.
When tightening the contacts, use a dynamometer screwdriver or strictly observe the force recommended by the manufacturer. Intractable contact will warm, and the overstretched can damage the wire vein or the body of the machine.
⚠️ Warning: Aluminum wires cannot be directly connected to the copper tires of automatic machines. Use bimetallic adapters or replace the input with copper cable.
After the installation is completed, a visual inspection and a multimeter “recall” of the chain is carried out for short circuit. Only after making sure the assembly is correct, you can supply voltage and check the system under load.
Nuances of comb use
There are different standards (Pin, Fork). Make sure that the profile of the comb matches the contact group of your machines. There are no universal solutions, and incompatibility will lead to poor contact and heat.
The modern market offers many brands, from budget to premium. The choice of the manufacturer affects the reliability, dimensions and durability of the equipment.
The premium segment includes brands such as ABB, Schneider Electric, Legrand. Their products are compact, high quality plastic and reliable mechanics. However, the cost of such flap And the machines are well above average.
The average price segment is represented by brands IEK, EKF, DEKraft. It is a popular choice for mass construction and private homes. With proper installation and observance of denominations, they serve a long time, but may have slightly larger dimensions of modules.
When buying, pay attention to certificates of conformity. The market is full of counterfeit products that may not work at a critical moment. Buy electrical products only in specialized stores.
The optimal solution for the ratio of price / quality for a private house is often a bundle: a shield of a domestic manufacturer and vending machines of a proven European or Russian brand of the middle segment.
Properly selected and assembled shield is a guarantee of the safety of your home. Do not skimp on the space inside the enclosure and the quality of the insulation, and the power supply system will work faultlessly for many years.
Can I install an electric shield in the bathroom?
According to the rules of the PUE, the installation of switchboards in bathrooms, saunas and showers is prohibited. These are rooms with high humidity, where the risk of electric shock is critically high. The shield shall be outside the "wet zone".
What height should the shield be installed?
The recommended height of the center of the shield is 150-170 cm from the floor. This provides convenient access to metering devices and automatic machines. The lower part of the panel should not be lower than 20-30 cm from the level of the clean floor to avoid dust and moisture during cleaning.
Do I need to fill the counter shield?
Yes, if the shield is installed metering device, access to the input machine and terminals of the meter must be sealed by a representative of the energy sales company. For this purpose, there are special boxes for a seal or filling stickers.
What to do if the shield is very warm?
Heating the case or machines indicates poor contact in the connections or network overload. It is necessary to immediately turn off the power, check the tightening of all screws and the correspondence of the wire cross section to the nominal value of the machines. The operation of the burning shield is prohibited.