The situation when the car push start, but the starter is silent when you turn the key or makes only clicking sounds, familiar to many drivers. This is a classic symptom indicating that the internal combustion engine itself is working properly, the fuel and ignition systems are working correctly, but the forced cranking mechanism is not functioning. Ignoring the problem can lead to the fact that in cold weather or in a parking lot with a slope there will simply be no one to start the car.
Unlike a completely discharged battery, when there is not enough electricity to even operate the dashboard, here we are dealing with more specific malfunctions. Most often the problem lies in the starter, its electrical circuit or, less commonly, in the mechanical part of the engine that creates excess resistance. Understanding the nature of the failure will help you quickly diagnose the failure and avoid costly repairs in the service.
Next we will look in detail why starter may not turn over if there is a charged battery, how to distinguish a problem with the retractor relay from wear on the brushes, and what to do if the car starts with a pusher, but the starter shows no signs of life. It is important to proceed consistently, checking for simple causes before removing the unit from the vehicle.
Diagnostics of the battery and terminals
The first thing that comes to mind for any startup problems is battery. Even if the starter makes sounds, but does not turn the crankshaft, or is completely silent, power problems cannot be ruled out. When starting from a pusher, the energy to ignite the mixture is taken from the generator, which starts working immediately as soon as the engine spins up from the wheels, so a weak battery charge in this case is not an obstacle.
However, for work starter a colossal current is required, which can reach 200-300 Amperes at the time of start-up. If the battery is old or has one “dead” cell, the voltage may be enough to light the lights and operate the fuel pump, but it is no longer enough to fire the starter. Also often the cause is oxidation of the terminals: a thin film of oxides creates high resistance, not allowing the required current to pass through.
☑️ Power check
Check that the terminals are securely fastened. If they dangle on the terminals, the contact will be unstable. Try lightly shaking the terminals by hand with the ignition off - if the instrument lights spark or flash, the problem has been found. It is also worth measuring the voltage at the battery terminals: if it is below 12 volts, the battery must be charged, even if the car is started from a pusher.
⚠️ Attention: When trying to “light” a car from another car or starting device, make sure that the cables have a sufficient cross-section. Thin wires may melt or fail to transmit the required starting current, giving the false impression that the battery is in good condition.
Malfunction of the starter retractor relay
If you turn the key to the "Starter" position, a loud click is heard, but the crankshaft does not rotate, in 80% of cases the culprit is solenoid relay. This electromagnetic mechanism performs two functions: it extends the bendix (gear) to engage the engine flywheel and closes powerful gears that supply current to the starter motor.
It often happens that the relay winding burns out or the contact coins burn out inside. In this case, there is a click (the armature is retracted), but the electrical circuit is not closed to the motor itself. Sometimes several restart attempts help when the spark breaks through the carbon deposits on the contacts, but this is a temporary solution. If the car starts from the pushrod, then everything is fine with the engine, and you need to look in the starter control circuit.
You can try gently tapping the solenoid relay housing with the handle of a hammer. This may temporarily restore contact between moving parts. If after this the starter starts working, know: the relay needs to be changed, since the situation will repeat itself at the most inopportune moment.
How to test the solenoid relay directly?
For diagnostics, you can apply voltage from the battery directly to the relay control contact (thin wire), bypassing the ignition switch. If the click becomes loud and the starter starts to turn, there is a problem in the control circuit or the ignition switch. If it clicks but does not turn, the relay or the starter itself is faulty.
Problems with bendix and mechanical parts
A rarer, but more unpleasant case is slippage bendix (overrunning clutch). In this situation, the starter spins merrily, a characteristic rotation sound is heard, but the engine remains motionless. The Bendix gear meshes with the flywheel, but due to wear on the rollers or springs, it cannot transmit torque.
When starting from a pusher, this unit is not involved, since rotation is transmitted directly from the wheels through the transmission to the crankshaft, bypassing the starter. This is why the car starts easily when you push it, but is absolutely powerless when you try to start it electrically. Diagnostics requires removing the starter and visually inspecting the drive gear.
It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the flywheel teeth. If they are licked or damaged, the bendix may rest against the teeth and not engage, producing an unpleasant grinding noise. In this case, the starter may idle properly, but is unable to start the engine.
Electrical circuit and ignition switch
Do not forget that the starter is the final actuator, which is controlled by an electrical signal. If there is silence in the ignition switch when you turn the key (there is not even a click of the relay), perhaps the problem lies in the ignition switch or a break in the control circuit. The contacts inside the lock burn out over time and stop passing current to the solenoid relay.
Check the fuse for the starting circuit. Its burnout will completely de-energize the starter control system. Also inspect the wires going to the starter: these are often located at the bottom of the engine and are susceptible to corrosion, oxidation, or mechanical damage from vibration and heat.
In some modern cars, starting is blocked by the electronic control unit (ECU) if the brake pedal position sensors or automatic transmission selector are faulty. If the system does not “see” that you have pressed the brake or moved the lever to “neutral”, the start command will simply not be sent, although the starter and battery are fully operational.
Effect of temperature and oil viscosity
In winter, the situation when the car starts from the pushrod, but not from the starter, can be caused by simple freezing. At low temperatures motor oil thickens, increasing the resistance to turning the crankshaft. The starter requires significantly more force to move the pistons, and if the battery is even slightly weak, it will not have enough current to overcome this resistance.
When starting from a pushrod, the vehicle's inertia and direct mechanical connection allow the engine to crank even in thick oil, after which it quickly warms up and runs normally. In this case, the starter is formally serviceable, but the operating conditions exceed its current capabilities.
Using oils with the wrong viscosity index (for example, too thick for winter) exacerbates the problem. If in the summer the car starts easily, but in the winter the starter barely turns, think about seasonally changing the oil to a thinner one.
| Symptom | Probable Cause | Actions |
|---|---|---|
| Loud click, silence | Solenoid relay, dimes | Replacing the relay or cleaning the contacts |
| The starter turns, but the engine doesn't | Bendix (overrunning clutch) | Bendix replacement |
| Silence when turning the key | Ignition switch, open circuit | Checking fuses and wires |
| Quiet buzzing or crackling noise | Starter brush wear | Replacing the brush assembly |
Specifics of launching manual and automatic
The ability to push start a car directly depends on the type of transmission. On vehicles with manual transmission (Manual transmission) this method is a standard emergency procedure. You squeeze out the clutch, accelerate the car, drop the clutch in gear, and the engine starts.
C automatic transmission (automatic transmission) the situation is different. A classic torque converter does not transmit rotation from the wheels to the engine when the pump (which is driven by the engine) is not running. Therefore, it is impossible to start the machine from a pusher in the traditional way - the wheels will simply turn the shafts of the box, but not the crankshaft of the engine.
Owners of cars with automatic transmissions and CVTs are strongly advised not to try to start the car by towing. This can lead to expensive transmission failure due to lack of pressurized lubrication.
If a car automatically starts with a pushrod (which happens on some older models or when special fluids are used in the transmission), but the starter is silent, this only confirms the serviceability of the internal combustion engine. However, you cannot rely on this starting method for automatic transmissions - this is an extreme measure, not a solution to the problem.
Temporary start-up and repair methods
If the problem catches you on the road and the starter does not turn, you can try to start the engine by closing the contacts of the solenoid relay directly. It's dangerous, but effective. You will need a wrench or a heavy-duty screwdriver with an insulated handle. It is necessary to close two thick contacts on the relay body (where the wires from the battery come and go to the starter motor).
ATTENTION: The car must be in neutral gear!
When the contacts close, a strong spark will occur.
This method will allow you to start the engine to get to the service station or garage. However, remember that this is not a repair, but an emergency measure. Once started, the engine will run until you turn it off, but the starter will not turn on again unless the fault is corrected.
⚠️ Attention: When closing contacts with a screwdriver, make sure that the tool does not touch metal parts of the body. A short circuit may cause fire or damage to the wiring. Perform this procedure only as a last resort.
For a complete repair, removal of the starter is most often required. In a garage, you can replace the solenoid relay, clean the commutator and replace the brushes. If the bendix or bushings are worn out, it is better to contact specialists or replace the assembly, since a high-quality overhaul requires skills and tools.
If the starter clicks but does not turn, most often the culprit is the solenoid relay or a dead battery. If it idles, the problem is in the bendix.
Why does the starter click but not turn?
A click means that the solenoid relay is working properly and is trying to move the bendix, but the main contacts inside the relay (nickels) are burnt and do not allow current to flow to the electric motor. The cause may also be poor ground contact or a dead battery that does not have enough strength to crank the engine.
Is it possible to drive if the car can only be started with a pushrod?
You can ride, but it is inconvenient and risky. If you stall in a traffic jam or at a traffic light, there will be no one to start the car. In addition, a faulty starter can jam at any time, which will lead to more serious damage or the inability to start the engine even with a pushrod.
How much does it cost to replace a starter?
The cost depends on the make of the car and the type of starter (new or reconditioned). Replacement work usually takes 1-2 hours. The price for the unit itself can vary from 3 to 15 thousand rubles and higher for premium cars.
How to extend the life of a starter?
Do not keep the key in the start position for more than 10 seconds. Let the starter cool down between tries. Monitor the condition of the battery and cleanliness of the terminals. Avoid getting water and dirt on the starter housing when washing the engine.