Gun lard is one of the most proven and inexpensive preservatives for protecting metal from corrosion, but in its pure form it is too thick and difficult to apply. Properly selected additives will not only simplify the work, but also improve the protective properties of the composition. In this article we will analyze 7 proven mixture recipes based on cannon lard, their advantages and disadvantages, as well as common mistakes that shorten the service life of the treatment.
The secret of the effectiveness of gun lard is in its composition: it is a mixture of petroleum oils, paraffins and fatty acids, which create on the surface of the metal semi-permeable film. It repels water, but allows air to pass through, preventing the “greenhouse effect” under the protective layer. However, without dilution, lard crystallizes at low temperatures and flows off when heated. Therefore, it is mixed with solvents, oils or waxes, depending on the task.
Important: not all additives are compatible with each other. For example, mixing gun lard with silicone lubricants leads to delamination of the composition after 3–6 months, and the use of gasoline instead of kerosene accelerates the evaporation of the protective layer by 2–3 times. Below are detailed recipes with explanations of when and how to use them.
1. Classic mixture: cannon fat + kerosene (or diesel fuel)
The most common and versatile option for processing bottoms, arches and hidden cavities. Kerosene (or diesel fuel) acts as a solvent, reducing the viscosity of grease and improving its penetration into microcracks in the metal.
Proportions:
- 🔧 For thick consistency (bottom, side members): 70% cannon fat + 30% kerosene.
- 💧 For liquid consistency (hidden cavities, thresholds): 50% lard + 50% kerosene.
- ❄️ For winter use: 60% lard + 40% kerosene (does not freeze down to –30°C).
Benefits of the mixture:
- ✅ Cheapness and availability of components.
- ✅ Good adhesion to rust (can be applied to light areas of corrosion without cleaning).
- ✅ Protection period: 1.5–2 years in temperate climates.
Disadvantages:
- ⚠️ Strong smell of kerosene (dissipates in 2-3 days).
- ⚠️ Doesn’t stick well on vertical surfaces (drains at +25°C and above).
⚠️ Attention: Do not use gasoline instead of kerosene! Gasoline evaporates faster, leaving the lard too thick, which leads to cracking of the protective layer after 6-8 months.
2. Gun lard + used motor oil: for suspension and threaded connections
Spray is a free and effective thinner that is often used for processing ball joints, silent blocks, bolts and nuts. The oil penetrates the thread, preventing “sticking”, and the lard creates an outer protective layer.
Proportions and application:
| Lard/oil ratio | Scope of application | Protection period |
|---|---|---|
| 80% / 20% | Threaded connections, fasteners | 1–1.5 years |
| 60% / 40% | Ball joints, silent blocks | 8–12 months |
| 50% / 50% | Suspension (levers, rods) | 6–9 months |
Pros of the mixture:
- 🔄 Processing contains additives that additionally protect the metal from oxidation.
- 🛠️ Ideal for processing mechanisms: it is not washed off with water, but does not interfere with the mobility of parts.
- 💰 Zero cost (if you have access to mining).
Cons:
- ⚠️ Not suitable for bodywork - can penetrate through microcracks in paintwork and cause paint swelling.
- ⚠️ When heated (for example, in brake mechanisms), it can emit an unpleasant odor.
Before mixing, the waste must be filtered through a fine sieve or cheesecloth to remove metal shavings and abrasive particles.
3. Lard + wax (paraffin or bees): for open surfaces of the body
Wax is added to create hard protective film, which does not stick to dust and lasts longer on vertical surfaces (for example, on thresholds or fenders). Paraffin is cheaper, but beeswax gives a more flexible coating.
Cooking recipe:
- Melt the cannon fat in a water bath (temperature no higher than +80°C).
- Add wax in the proportion of 80% lard / 20% wax (for a hard coating) or 70% / 30% (for an elastic one).
- Stir until smooth and let cool.
Benefits of the wax mixture:
- 🌟 Shiny surface (can be used on visible parts of the body).
- 🛡️ Resistant to washing off with shampoo (withstands 3-5 washes).
- 🧊 Does not crack in the cold (withstands up to –40°C).
⚠️ Attention: Do not apply the wax mixture to the rubber seals of doors and windows - the wax makes the rubber hard, which leads to cracking after 1-2 years.
Clean the metal from dirt and oil|Remove rust with a brush or sandpaper|Degrease the surface with white spirit|Dry with a hairdryer or in the sun|Apply a thin layer of anti-corrosion primer (optional)-->
4. Gun lard + solvent 646: for hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places
Solvent 646 makes the mixture as liquid as water, allowing it to be processed cavities inside doors, side members and body reinforcements through technological holes. The composition dries quickly, leaving an elastic film.
Proportions and nuances:
- 🔬 For spraying with a brush: 60% lard + 40% solvent.
- 💨 For spraying with a gun: 40% lard + 60% solvent (must be filtered through a filter).
- ⏳ Drying time: 1–2 hours at +20°C.
Pros:
- 🎯 Penetrates into the narrowest crevices (for example, welds).
- 🔄 Does not require heating before application.
- 📉 Consumption: 1 liter of mixture is enough to treat hidden cavities of the entire body.
Cons:
- ⚠️ Solvent 646 is toxic - work only with a respirator and gloves!
- ⚠️ Not suitable for open surfaces (quickly washed off by rain).
What happens if you overdo it with solvent?
If you add more than 70% solvent 646, the mixture will become too thin and will not form a protective film. After the solvent evaporates, a thin layer of grease will remain, which will not protect against corrosion and will quickly be washed off. Optimal viscosity - like thick paint.
5. Gun lard + graphite lubricant: for threads and rubbing parts
Graphite grease (e.g. Litol-24 with graphite or Uniol-1) is added for processing bolts, nuts, hinges and hinges. Graphite reduces friction and prevents threads from sticking, and lard protects against rust.
Proportions and application:
- 🔩 For threaded connections: 70% gun fat + 30% graphite lubricant.
- ⚙️ For hinges (for example, hood hinges): 50% / 50%.
- 🚗 For seat guides: 60% lard + 40% graphite (does not stick to fabric).
Benefits:
- 🔧 Prevents thread “sticking” even after 5+ years of operation.
- 🔄 Resistant to high temperatures (up to +120°C).
- 🛡️ Protects against corrosion better than pure graphite.
Disadvantages:
- ⚠️ Cannot be used on plastic parts - graphite stains them.
- ⚠️ Requires regular updating (every 1-2 years).
Graphite mixture is the only option for processing threaded connections that does not require pre-cleaning of old lubricant. It is enough to apply the composition over the rust, and it will “dissolve” it in 2–3 days.
6. Gun lard + gear oil: to protect the suspension and driveshafts
Gear oil (eg. TAD-17 or Castrol Syntrax) contains sulfur additives that form on the metal chemical resistant film. This mixture is ideal for processing cardan shafts, CV joints and gearboxes.
Recommended proportions:
- 🚙 For cardan shafts: 70% lard + 30% transmission oil.
- 🔗 For CV joints: 60% / 40% (does not interfere with the operation of the hinges).
- 🔧 For gearboxes: 50% / 50% (protects against water and dirt).
Pros:
- 🔥 Resistant to high temperatures (up to +150°C).
- 🛡️ Protects against corrosion even in an aggressive environment (salt, reagents).
- 🔄 Does not wash off with water under pressure.
Cons:
- ⚠️ Not suitable for aluminum parts (may cause oxidation).
- ⚠️ More expensive than other options (transmission oil costs from 500 rubles/l).
7. Gun lard + bitumen mastic: for the bottom and wheel arches
Bituminous mastic (for example, Body 930 or Dinitrol 479) gives the mixture water repellent properties and increases resistance to mechanical damage. This composition is often used for processing bottoms, arches and sills in regions with aggressive winters.
How to mix:
- 🔧 For thick consistency: 60% cannon fat + 40% bitumen mastic.
- 💦 For liquid consistency (spraying): 50% / 50% + 10% solvent 646.
Benefits:
- 🌧️ Withstands direct impacts from gravel and sand.
- ❄️ Does not crack at -50°C.
- 🛡️ Service life: up to 3 years.
Disadvantages:
- ⚠️ It is difficult to remove when re-processing (a special remover is needed).
- ⚠️ Darkens in the sun (not suitable for visible parts of the body).
Common mistakes when mixing cannon lard
Even experienced car owners make mistakes that ruin all anti-corrosion treatment efforts. Here TOP-5 misses and how to avoid them:
- Using gasoline instead of kerosene.
Gasoline evaporates 3 times faster, leaving the lard too thick. After 6 months the protection cracks.
- Heating lard over an open fire.
At temperatures above +100°C, cannon lard loses some of its protective properties. Heat only in a water bath.
- Mixing with silicone lubricants.
Silicone and petroleum products are incompatible - the mixture separates after 3-6 months.
- Application on wet or rusty metal.
Moisture under a layer of grease accelerates corrosion by 2 times. Be sure to dry and clean the surface.
- Using one mixture for the entire car.
The body, suspension and hidden cavities require different proportions (see table above).
Before mixing, check the compatibility of the components: apply a drop of the mixture to a piece of metal and leave for 24 hours. If no separation or stains appear, you can use it.
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions
Is it possible to mix cannon lard with grease?
Yes, but only for processing hangers and threaded connections. Proportions: 60% cannon fat + 40% grease. This mixture is not suitable for the body - grease does not adhere well to vertical surfaces and is quickly washed off.
How to store the finished mixture?
Store the finished mixture in airtight container (tin cans or plastic canisters) at temperatures from –10°C to +25°C. Shelf life:
- With kerosene/diesel: up to 2 years.
- With solvent 646: up to 1 year (solvent evaporates).
- With wax or mastic: up to 3 years.
Stir before use - stratification (stratification) is possible.
How to wash gun grease off the body?
To remove use:
- White spirit or solvent 646 - for fresh stains.
- Special washes (for example, ABRO CARB-CLEANER) - for old layers.
- Hot water + dish soap - for rubber seals.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use acetone or gasoline - they damage paintwork and rubber!
Is it possible to apply gun lard to galvanized metal?
Yes, but with reservations:
- ✅ You can: on hot-dip galvanized parts (for example, bodies Volkswagen or Skoda).
- ⚠️ Undesirable: for galvanic galvanization (a thin layer of zinc can react with acids in lard).
- 🔧 Recommendation: Before application, wipe the surface with a soda solution (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) to neutralize possible reactions.
How often should processing be updated?
The service life of the protection depends on the composition of the mixture and operating conditions:
| Mixture type | Temperate climate | Aggressive environment (salt, reagents) |
|---|---|---|
| Lard + kerosene | 1.5–2 years | 1 year |
| Lard + processing | 1 year | 6 months |
| Lard + wax | 2–3 years | 1.5 years |
| Lard + bitumen mastic | 3 years | 2 years |
Signs that it's time to update your processing:
- 🔍 The appearance of rusty spots under a layer of lard.
- 💧 The mixture began to crumble or crack.
- 🚗 After washing, wet spots remain on the metal (which means the protection has stopped repelling water).