Anticorrosive push fat: how to use and apply correctly

Corrosion of metal body elements is the main enemy of any car, which mercilessly destroys the structure of the metal, turning it into a loose mass. Hidden cavities, where moisture, salt and reagents from roads enter, are especially aggressive, causing irreversible rotting processes from the inside. To effectively protect these hard-to-reach areas, a time-tested preservative called push-fat.

This material is a viscous mass obtained by oxidation of petroleum oils and their subsequent processing by saponification. Unlike modern synthetic aerosols, push-fat has the unique ability to penetrate deeply into microcracks and reliably envelop the metal, displacing moisture. Correct use of this product allows you to extend the life of your car body for many years, if you know exactly how to apply it.

In this article we will analyze in detail all the nuances of working with this composition, from choosing the right tool to safety precautions. You will learn how to prepare the surface, what heating methods exist and why it is important to maintain temperature conditions during application. Proper use of anticorrosive is the key to ensuring that your car remains protected even in the harshest climatic conditions.

What is push fat and why is it effective?

Cannon lard, or simply lard, is a petroleum product that is a solid or semi-solid mass of yellowish-brown color. Its key feature is its high adhesion to metal and the ability to maintain elasticity over a wide temperature range. When applied to the surface, it creates a continuous film that does not crack in the cold and does not run off in the heat, providing long-term anti-corrosion protection.

The composition is based on oxidized petroleum oils thickened with higher fatty acids and inorganic alkalis. This chemical formula gives the material excellent water-repellent properties. Unlike bitumen mastics, which can dry out and crack over time, push lard remains plastic, independently healing minor damage to the coating. This makes it an ideal choice for treating sills, side members and other hidden cavities.

The effectiveness of the material has been confirmed by decades of vehicle operation in northern latitudes. It contains no volatile solvents that evaporate, leaving voids, but acts as a living barrier. It is important to understand that the protective effect is achieved only when the material is heated to a liquid state, which allows it to penetrate into the most secluded corners of the body structure.

• 🚗 Excellent penetrating ability into microcracks and metal joints.
• 💧 High water-repellent properties and the ability to displace moisture.
• 🌡️ Preservation of elasticity at temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
• 🛡️ Durable coating that does not require frequent updating.

It is worth noting that lard is not a panacea for all ills if applied over existing rust without prior cleaning. It preserves the process, but will not stop it completely if the source of corrosion is not treated mechanically or chemically beforehand. Therefore, surface preparation plays no less a role than the choice of protective composition itself.

Necessary tools and preparation for work

Before starting anti-corrosion treatment, it is necessary to prepare the workplace and all the required tools. Since the work will involve hot materials and chemicals, safety must be a priority. You will need not only the preservative itself, but also means to heat it, clean it and apply it to hard-to-reach places.

The key element of the equipment is the heating container, since the material cannot be applied in solid form. Often they use old saucepans or special metal tanks that can be heated on a stove or gas burner. Also an indispensable (irreplaceable) tool would be a large-volume syringe or a special gun for anticorrosion with a flexible hose and sprayer.

Don't forget about personal protective equipment. Vapors from heated petroleum products and splashes of hot composition can be dangerous. Be sure to use gloves, safety glasses and a respirator. The room should be well ventilated, since heating may release unpleasant odors and harmful fumes.

The list of required equipment is as follows:

• 🔥 Heat source (gas burner, electric stove or fire).
• 🥘 Metal container for melting the composition.
• 💉 A 20 cc syringe or a special sprayer with a long nozzle.
• 🧤 Rubber gloves, safety glasses and a respirator.
• 🧼 Rags, degreaser and brushes for cleaning metal.

Preparing the car involves thoroughly washing the underbody and cavities. It is necessary to remove all dirt, sand and remnants of old, peeling protection. It is better to pre-weld areas with through corrosion or treat them with a rust converter, although lard is often applied simply to cleaned metal for prevention.

Technology of heating and applying material

The most important stage in the processing process is the correct heating of the push fat. The material must be heated to a temperature of approximately 80-90 degrees Celsius. At this temperature it becomes liquid, like water, which allows it to easily flow into all the cracks. If the composition is not heated enough, it will be too thick and form clumps, not providing the necessary protection.

The mixture should be heated carefully, stirring constantly, to avoid local overheating and boiling. Open fire under the container should be minimal; it is better to use a water bath or adjust the burner flame. Once the composition has become completely liquid and homogeneous, it can be drawn into a syringe or poured into the spray tank.

⚠️ Attention: Never heat lard in a closed container or microwave, as this may cause an explosion due to vapor pressure. Use only open metal containers on fire.

Application is carried out through special technological holes in the body or through holes drilled with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm. A stream of hot composition is fed into the cavity, filling it from bottom to top. Due to its high temperature and fluidity, the material independently spreads over all surfaces, creating a uniform layer.

Do I need to drill the body?

Drilling technological holes is a standard practice for high-quality processing of hidden cavities. Holes are made in the least visible places or in places that are then covered with plugs. After processing, the holes must be closed with rubber plugs or welded so as not to violate the tightness of the body.

Particular attention should be paid to corners, welds and joints. This is where corrosion most often begins. When working with a sprayer, try to keep the nozzle at a distance of 10-15 cm from the surface so that the stream is not too strong and does not splash the material around.

After application, the composition cools and hardens, forming a durable film. Excess that gets on visible parts of the body or glass must be removed immediately while they are hot, using a rag and a degreaser. Cured material will be extremely difficult to remove.

Treatment of hidden cavities and car underbody

Machining hidden cavities such as sills, pillars and side members requires a special approach. These structural elements are most susceptible to moisture and salt, which gets inside through the ventilation holes. The application technology here is similar to the general one, but requires more careful control of the volume filling.

For thresholds, existing technological holes under plastic plugs are usually used. If there are not enough of them, you have to drill additional holes on the inside of the threshold to get to the lower corner. Jet of hot preservative is fed until a clean composition flows from the opposite hole, which indicates complete filling of the volume.

The underbody of the car is processed slightly differently. Here, fluff lard is often used in a mixture with other components or applied in a thicker layer using a brush or brush, if we are talking about smooth surfaces. However, for better penetration into the joints of metal sheets, it is preferable to use the hot spraying method.

Processing area	Application method	Material consumption	Features
Thresholds	Through technological holes	0.5 - 1 l per side	Additional holes required
Spars	Spraying with a flexible hose	1 - 1.5 l per spar	It is important to go all the way to the end
Doors	Through the holes in the ends	0.3 - 0.5 l per door	Be careful with window lift mechanisms
Bottom (arches)	Brush or spray	1 - 2 kg per arch	Requires thorough cleaning of dirt

When processing doors, it is important not to flood the window lift and lock mechanisms. Although fluff lard does not dry out, too much can disrupt electrical function or collect dust, turning into an abrasive mess. Therefore, the jet should be directed primarily at the inner walls of doors and reinforcements.

Safety precautions and common mistakes

Working with hot petroleum products carries certain risks that should not be forgotten for a second. The first and most common mistake is neglecting thermal protection. A drop of melted push fat that gets on the skin causes a serious burn that takes a very long time to heal. Therefore, the use of thick gloves and clothing that covers the hands is mandatory.

The second mistake is insufficient surface preparation. Many car enthusiasts are too lazy to wash the body of dirt and apply anti-corrosion coating “dry”. This is pointless: the material will lie on top of the dirt and quickly peel off, and rotting will continue underneath it. High-quality pressure washing and drying are mandatory steps.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly prohibited to smoke or use open fire in the immediate vicinity of a container with a heated composition. Vapors from petroleum products are highly flammable!

Another mistake is using too high temperatures when heating. If lard is overheated, it may lose its properties, begin to coke, or even catch fire. The optimal temperature is when the composition flows easily, but does not smoke or boil.

It's also worth mentioning the economy fallacy. Trying to save material, users often process only the visible parts or apply too thin a layer. As a result, the protection is ineffective. Push-fat is an inexpensive material, and its consumption is fully justified by the service life of the car.

• 🔥 Skin burns when a hot drop hits you - work with gloves.
• 💨 Vapor poisoning - ensure good ventilation of the room.
• 🧨 Fire hazard - keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
• 👓 Eye damage - use safety glasses when working with the sprayer.

Remember that safety is not just words, but concrete actions. Check the serviceability of the equipment before starting work, make sure that the hoses are intact and there are no leaks in the connections. Only if all precautions are taken will the anti-corrosion treatment process be successful.

Comparison with modern analogues and choice of composition

In the modern world of automotive chemistry, push lard is often compared with various mastics, bituminous compounds and synthetic anticorrosives on a paraffin or wax basis. Each material has its pros and cons, and the choice depends on the specific operating conditions of the vehicle and the owner’s budget.

The main advantage of push sal over bitumen mastics is its ability not to crack in the cold. Bitumen hardens over time and when vibrations or impacts from stones occur, the coating bursts, allowing moisture to reach the metal. Fluff fat always remains elastic, automatically “healing” minor damage.

However, synthetic formulations such as Rust Stop or Movix, have their trump cards. They often have better penetrating properties due to a thinner base and contain corrosion inhibitors that chemically stop rust. Push lard works more like a physical barrier, isolating the metal from the environment.

When choosing between a push-salon and modern analogues, it is worth considering the age of the car. For older cars, where low cost and time-tested reliability are important, push fat is an excellent choice. For new vehicles with complex electronics and thin metals, lighter, less sticky synthetic compounds that are easier to remove if necessary are sometimes preferred.

Ultimately, “how to use” push sal depends on your goals. If you need “bulletproof” underbody protection for off-road driving and reagents for pennies, this is your option. If you want to treat the difficult hidden cavities of your new SUV, you may want to consider a combination approach or modern sprays.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Is it possible to apply push lard to rust?

You can apply it, but it will be a temporary measure. Lard will preserve rust by stopping the access of oxygen, but will not remove it. Before application, it is advisable to mechanically clean large areas of corrosion and treat them with a rust converter for maximum effect.

At what temperature does lard freeze?

The material begins to harden already at temperatures below +40...+50 degrees Celsius, but gains full hardness when cooling to room temperature. That is why it is applied hot, so that it has time to spread before it hardens.

How to wash fluff from clothes or hands?

It does not wash off in cold water. Use hot water with plenty of laundry soap or laundry detergent. Organic solvents (Galosha gasoline, white spirit) also help effectively, but they dry the skin, so a cream is needed after them.

Do I need to dilute the lard with a solvent?

Classic push lard does not require dilution, it is simply heated. However, some craftsmen add a little diesel fuel or waste oil to improve fluidity at low application temperatures, but this may reduce the protective properties.

How often should the coating be renewed?

With the correct application technology and operation under average conditions, push fat lasts 3-5 years or more. It is recommended to check the state of protection annually, in the spring, after the winter season.