Restoration of the shine of the body is not just an aesthetic procedure, but an important stage in protecting the paint coating (LAC) from the aggressive effects of the external environment. Car polishing with your own hands It saves you significant money on the services of child-centering, provided that you clearly follow the technology and use the right materials. Many owners are afraid to start this procedure, fearing to wipe the varnish, but a competent approach minimizes the risks.
The process returns the car to the “just out of the cabin” view, removing the so-called “web,” small scratches and oxide film. Depth of scratches It plays a crucial role: if the nail clings to the defect, polishing may not help and more serious repairs will be needed. However, in 90% of cases, manual or machine processing works wonders.
Diagnosis of the state of LCP and the choice of method
Before buying abrasives, it is necessary to objectively assess the current state of the body. Approach the car in bright daylight or use a powerful LED lamp to see the real picture of damage. Deep risks, reaching the ground or metal, polishing can not be eliminated - here only local painting will help. Your goal is microscopic damage to the top layer of the varnish.
There are two main methods: restorative and protective polishing. The first involves removing a micron layer of varnish to level the surface, the second - applying wax or ceramics to create a protective film. Removing more than 5 microns of varnish in one procedure is considered dangerous for the durability of the coating.
⚠️ Attention: If there are chips to metal on the body, before polishing them, you must necessarily paint them with a corrective pencil, otherwise moisture will get there during the work and corrosion will begin.
The choice of method also depends on the type of paint. Metallics and pearls are more resistant to abrasive, while soft acrylic enamel (often found on red and black cars) require an extremely delicate approach. For beginners, it is better to start with the use of DA-cars (eccentric), since the risk of overheating and wiping the varnish on it is minimal.
Required tools and materials
The quality of the result depends on the equipment used. Buying a professional rotary machine for a one-time home procedure does not make sense - it requires skills. For work in the garage, an eccentric polishing machine with an eccentric course of 8-15 mm is ideal.
In addition to power tools, you will need a set of circles of different rigidity and polishing pastes. It is important to understand the difference between squirt (for removal of defects) and finishing (for gloss effect). Also, don’t forget about degreasing, microfiber and paint tape to protect plastic elements.
Below is a table of compatibility of circles and pastes for different stages of work:
| Type of circle | Color (standard) | Type of pasta | Purpose of use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tough (Cutting) | Orange/Red | Rough abrasive | Removal of deep scratches, shashashares |
| Medium (Polishing) | White/Blue | Medium-abrasive | Removing holograms, preparing for the finish |
| Soft (Finishing) | Black/Green | Finished/Anti-Hologram | Imposing mirror shine |
⚠️ Note: Never use the same circle for different pastes. The remains of a large abrasive on a soft circle can create new deep scratches.
Additional requirements clay bar Clean the surface before starting work. It removes ingrained contaminants that are not washed away by a regular sink. Without this stage, polishing will be difficult, and the result will be unsatisfactory.
Preparation of the body for polishing
Ignoring the preparatory stage is the main mistake of beginners. If you start polishing a dirty machine, the dust particles under the circle will turn into sandpaper. First, the car must be thoroughly washed in a two-phase way, paying attention to the arches and lower parts of the sills.
After washing, the decontamination stage follows. Treat the body with a special asphalt cleaner and clay bar. Movements of clay should be progressive, on the surface abundantly lubricated with lubricant. If the hand is not moving, the surface is clean.
☑️ Checklist of preparations
The final touch of preparation is degreasing. Use it. antisilicone or a special degreaser to remove the residue of oils and polishes. This will ensure an honest assessment of the condition of the LCP and the uniform operation of the paste. All rubber seals and black plastic around the glass be sure to seal with paint tape.
Technology of polishing: step-by-step process
The process itself is divided into stages similar to preparation: from rough abrasive to finish. Apply the paste not on the body itself, but on the polishing circle (literally 3-4 peas in size). Distribute the paste to the part on the switched off machine so that it does not fly at start.
Turn on the machine at minimum speeds, press the circle to the surface and only then smoothly increase the speed. The movements should be cross-sectional: first vertically, then horizontally. Do not stay in one place for a long time so as not to overheat the varnish. The optimal speed of passage is about 50 cm per second.
Work in small areas, about 50 by 50 cm. After passing the area immediately wipe it with a clean microfiber and examine the result in lateral light. If there are defects, repeat the passage. If everything is clean, move on to the next step or the next section.
⚠️ Note: Pressure on the machine is minimal. The weight of the polishing machine itself (about 2-3 kg) already creates enough downforce for effective operation.
Keep a water sprayer on hand. If the paste began to dry and dust, slightly moisten the surface or the circle itself, but do not overdo it.
Finishing and protection
After the abrasive polishing is completed, the body looks perfect, but it is devoid of protection. The polish is now open to ultraviolet light and reagents. A protective layer must be applied. It can be carnauba wax, synthetic silant or liquid glass.
Apply protection only on a perfectly clean and low-fat surface. For waxes, use a soft applicator, rubbing the composition with circular movements. Let the composition dry until whitish plaque appears (time is indicated on the package, usually 5-10 minutes).
Removal of wax is also done with a pure microfiber. It is important to use high-quality rags that do not leave a pile. After rubbing, the machine will acquire a deep, rich color and hydrophobic effect, when water will roll off the body in large drops.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common mistake is to use too much pasta. Excess material is scattered throughout the garage and reduce the efficiency of the abrasive. It is better to add a little in the process than to overdo it at the beginning.
The second mistake is polishing in the sun or hot body. The polish becomes soft, and the risk of leaving “holograms” or rubbing the coating increases many times over. Work in the shade or in the garage at a body temperature not higher than 20-25 degrees.
What are holograms?
Holograms are the sun-seen divorces and micro-risks left by the polished circle. They usually occur due to using too rough a lap at the finish line or working at high turnovers. Cleaning up with finishing polish.
The third mistake is saving on microfiber. Cheap rags can have a hard pile that will leave new micro-scratches on the newly polished varnish. Use only specialized towels for high GSM decking.
The secret to success is not to rush. Polishing one car for the first time can take 6-8 hours of clean time.
Care for a polished car
To make the result please you as long as possible, you need to properly wash the car after polishing. For the first two weeks, it is best to avoid using active chemicals and autoshampoos with aggressive surfactants to give the protective layer a permanent fix (especially if it is ceramics or liquid glass).
Use the two-bucket method when washing to minimize the risk of a new "web spider." Regularly update the protective layer with spray-quick detailer after every third wash. This will extend the life of the main cover.
Remember that even the best quality polishing is not eternal. Depending on the operating conditions and the quality of the materials used, the effect will last from 3 months (for waxes) to 2 years (for ceramics). Regular examination of the LCP will help to notice the need for a second procedure in time.
Can you polish your car with a conventional drill?
Technically, you can use a drill nozzle, but this is highly discouraged. The drill has no eccentric course, works only on rotation, which creates a high risk of overheating of the varnish and the appearance of holograms. It is also difficult to control the uniformity of the pressure.
How often can you polish your car?
Abrasive polishing with removal of the layer of varnish is not recommended to do more than 2-3 times for the entire life of the car. Protective (wax) polishing can be done every 2-3 months depending on the strength of the composition.
Do I need to wash my car after polishing?
Immediately after the work is finished, you do not need to wash the car, since you have just cleaned and protected the body. However, before the start of polishing, the washing is mandatory. After polishing, you can immediately leave, but the first couple of days it is better to avoid rain if wax was used.
What is the difference between polishing and waxing?
Pollination is a mechanical process of leveling a surface with abrasives. Wax (or other protective coating) is the chemical process of creating a protective film on top of the varnish. These procedures often go hand in hand, but are different stages.