Owning a car is inevitably associated with the appearance of small defects on the paint coating. Sand flying out from under the wheels ahead of the cars, tree branches on narrow country roads and even an insecure wash leave traces on the body, which eventually turn into a grid of “web spiders” or noticeable risks.
It is at this moment that the owner faces the question of choosing a means that can return the car to its original appearance. Polyryl to eliminate scratches - this is not just cosmetics, but a full-fledged tool for restoring the structure of the varnish, if you approach the process competently.
In the modern world of autochemistry, it is difficult to understand the first time, since manufacturers offer hundreds of items with different chemical composition and degree of abrasiveness. Some tools are designed for deep cleaning and removal of the microlayer of lacquer, others only mask defects, creating a temporary film.
The purpose of this article is to help you understand the types of polishes, understand the difference between abrasive and protective compositions, and master the technique of safe use so as not to damage the body instead of its restoration.
Classification of polyroles by type of impact
The first thing to understand before buying a bottle with a miracle remedy is the principle of its operation. All compositions are divided into two large groups: abrasive and non-abrasive (reconstructive or protective). Abrasive polishing They contain microscopic solid particles that literally cut off the thinnest layer of lacquer along with the scratch, leveling the surface.
Such tools are effective against deep risks, but require caution. If you overdo it, you can wipe the varnish to paint or even metal, which will require no more polishing, but full-fledged painting of the element. On the contrary, non-abrasive They work chemically or fill irregularities with polymers, hiding defects and giving shine, but not physically removing them.
There is also an intermediate class - polyroly with the content of nanoparticles or cerium oxide. They act softer than classical abrasive chemistry, reacting with the varnish when heated by friction. This allows you to remove scratches with less risk for the thickness of the LCP, but the cost of materials such as: Koch Chemie or Menzerna, usually higher.
The choice of type of polish directly depends on the depth of damage. For the “spider web” after washing, light cleaning polishing will be suitable, whereas for tangible scratches with a nail, serious abrasive and machine processing will be required.
Degrees of abrasiveness and choice of means
The key parameter when choosing is the graininess of the abrasive. Manufacturers often label packages with the terms “rough”, “medium”, “thin”, or use color coding. Understanding this gradation will save your body from unnecessary damage.
Rough (Heavy Cut) polishes are designed to remove serious defects, shaking after painting and deep tyres. They work aggressively and leave behind a mattage or holograms, which must be removed by the next, softer stage. Medium-sized (Medium Cut) formulations are versatile and are often used as a one-step solution for used cars.
Fine Cut and ultra-thin polishes serve for finishing. They give the surface a mirror gloss and remove traces of the work of coarser pastes.
Secrets of the professionals
Velcro test.
Professional decorators before polishing the whole body always make a test pass on an inconspicuous area, for example, on the bottom of the door or threshold. Apply polymer, pass the machine and evaluate the result. This allows you to understand how the varnish of a particular car will behave without risking spoiling the prominent elements.
Below is a table that helps to orient in the choice of polyroly depending on the state of the LCP:
| Type of polyrolyte | Size of abrasive | What scratches? | The need for a machine |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rough (Heavy Cut) | Big one. | Deep risks, shaking. | I'll be sure. |
| Medium (Medium Cut) | Medium. | "Webweb," scuffed. | Preferably. |
| Thin (Fine Cut) | Small-time | Microscopes, holograms | Preferably. |
| Protective (Wax/Sealant) | Absent. | No (for glitter) | No (manually) |
Manual polishing technology of the body
If you don’t have a polishing machine, it doesn’t mean that it’s impossible to restore shine. Hand polishing requires more time and physical effort, but with the right approach, it gives an excellent result for eliminating minor defects. The main rule is careful preparation of the surface.
The car must be washed in a two-phase way, removing bitumen and metal inclusions with special cleaners. After washing, the body should be degreased, for example, with antisilicone, so that the polymer works with varnish, not with dirt. Apply the product better on a special applicator made of microfiber or foam, and not directly on the body.
The movements should be circular, without strong pressure. Your task is not to rub the polymer with force, but to ensure the uniform distribution and operation of the abrasive due to friction. When the paste becomes transparent and begins to disappear (dry), it must be removed with a clean microfiber.
☑️ Hand-polished algorithm
⚠️ Attention: Never do polishing under direct sunlight or on a hot body. The polymer will dry too quickly, turning into a hard-to-remove crust, which can lead to new scratches when wiped off.
Machine-polishing
Using a rotary or orbital (DA) machine dramatically changes the efficiency of the process. Machine polishing allows you to remove the layer of varnish evenly and controlled, which is almost impossible to achieve with your hands. However, here the risks of damage to the body increase many times.
For beginners, it is strongly recommended to use orbital rotary machines with an eccentric. They are less aggressive and practically eliminate the risk of “breaking out” of the varnish or overheating of the surface. Rotary machines that rotate only on one axis require high skill and constant temperature control.
The process begins with the application of polish on a circle (usually foam). The circle is applied to the body before switch on the machine so that the paste does not fly. Movements should be slow, overlapping each other, with uniform pressure. It is important not to stay in one place, so as not to overheat the varnish.
The speed of rotation of the polishing machine for (beginners) should not exceed 1000-1200 revolutions per minute. Exceeding this threshold leads to rapid heating of the varnish and its clouding.
After passing the area with abrasive paste, be sure to wipe the surface with a degreasing agent to assess the real result. Often it seems that the scratch is gone, but the greasy film of polishing just hides the defects until the first wash.
Finishing and protection
Once the scratches are removed, the body remains "naked" and vulnerable. Abrasive polishing removes not only defects, but also the old layer of protection. If you do not apply the finishing coating, the "web" will return after the second or third wash.
To consolidate the result, waxes, silants (synthetic sealants) or ceramic compositions are used. Wax They give a deep warm shine, but do not last long (2-4 weeks). Silantes are more resistant to chemistry and last up to 6 months. Ceramics create a hard layer that protects against small scratches and facilitates washing.
To apply protection on a perfectly clean and low-fat surface with a thin layer. Excess that have not been absorbed or crystallized must be carefully removed with a clean microfiber, otherwise divorces will remain.
Use a few clean microfiber wipes for finishing. As soon as one side is contaminated with residues of polish or wax, immediately change it to a clean one, so as not to scratch the newly polished surface.
Frequent mistakes in polishing
The most common mistake is to remove all scratches in one pass with the most powerful abrasive. This leads to the fact that instead of a transparent varnish, you get a murky surface with holograms that shimmer in the sun even more noticeable than the original scratches.
The second mistake is the use of dirty circles or napkins. Caught between the circle and the varnish grain of sand will turn into a dangerous cutter, leaving deep furrows. Circles need to be cleaned with a special brush or blown with air during work.
The third mistake is ignoring the edges and edges of the body. On sharp edges, the layer of lacquer is always thinner. Walking with a machine or pressing your hand heavily on the ribs, you can easily wipe the varnish until paint. These areas should be polished carefully, with minimal pressure or bypass them.
⚠️ Attention: If the scratch goes deeper than the varnish and touches the colored layer of paint (base) or soil, polishing will not help. You will only make the spot more noticeable by thinning the varnish around. Such defects require local coloring or painting of the element.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Will the polymer remove the scratch if it feels like a nail?
Probably not. If the nail clings to a scratch, then the damage is deep and affects the base layer of paint. Polishing can make the edges of the scratch more gentle and less noticeable, but completely remove it without removing a large amount of varnish (which is dangerous) will not work. In such cases, retouching or painting is more effective.
How often can you polish your car?
Abrasive polishing can not be done often, as it reduces the thickness of the paint coating. With a competent approach, full polishing is enough for 2-3 years. Recovery (light) polishing can be done once a year, and protective compositions can be updated as necessary (once every few months).
What is the difference between polish and wax?
Polyrene (abrasive) is designed for mechanical removal of defects of the lacquer layer. Wax is a protective finishing coating that does not remove scratches, but hides micronervousness and protects the body from moisture and dirt. Often these concepts are confused due to the availability of “wax-polyroles” that contain a little abrasive.
Can I polish the matte paint?
Absolutely not. The use of abrasive polishes on a matt LCP will make glossy spots that cannot be removed. Uterine surfaces require special chemistry without abrasives and lusters, designed specifically for the "mat".