Metallic is one of the most popular and striking types of car paint, which gives the car depth of color and iridescent shine. However, the services of professional painters are expensive: complete painting of a sedan will cost 80–150 thousand rubles, and local repairs will cost from 15 thousand. At the same time high-quality metallic can be applied independently, saving up to 70% of the budget. The main thing is to properly prepare the surface, choose materials and follow the technology.

In this article we will analyze the entire process from A to Z: from choosing paint and tools to final polishing. You will learn what mistakes beginners most often make (and how to avoid them), how to color metallic colors correctly so that there is no difference in tone, and what brands of paints and varnishes give the best results when painting at home. The instructions are suitable for completely repainting a car, restoring individual elements (hood, bumper, fender) or eliminating chips and scratches.

1. What you need for metallic painting: tools and materials

Before you start work, prepare everything you need. There is no need to skimp on materials - cheap paint or primer can ruin all your efforts. Here's a basic list:

  • 🔧 Grinder (orbital or vibrating) with a set of abrasive wheels (P80–P2000)
  • 🎨 Spray gun (optimally - HVLP with a 1.3–1.4 mm nozzle for metallics)
  • 🧴 Degreaser (for example, APP W900 or Body 700)
  • 🖌️ Soil (epoxy or acid for metal, acrylic for plastic)
  • 🎨 Metallic base paint (choose according to the color code of your car)
  • 💎 Varnish (two-component acrylic, e.g. Mobihel HS or Sikkens Autoclear)
  • 🧽 Masking tape, covering film, paper for pasting
  • 🛠️ Sandpaper (P400–P1000 for wet sanding, P1500–P2000 for polishing)
  • 🧴 Polishing pastes (abrasive and non-abrasive, for example, 3M Perfect-It)
  • 🔥 Infrared lamp or a hair dryer for drying (optional)

If you are painting for the first time, rent a spray gun - good models (for example, SATAjet RP or Iwata W-400) cost from 20 thousand rubles. This is not practical for a one-time job. An alternative is middle-class air pistols (DeVilbiss FLG-5 or Anest Iwata LPH-400), which can be bought for 5–8 thousand.

⚠️ Attention: Do not use spray guns with plastic nozzles for metallic paints! Metallized particles quickly wear out the nozzle, resulting in uneven spray. The optimal nozzle material is stainless steel or ceramic.

In terms of material consumption: to completely paint a sedan it will take ~2.5–3 liters of base paint, 3–4 liters of varnish and 1–1.5 liters of primer. For local repairs (for example, bumper + hood), 0.5 liters of paint, 0.7 liters of varnish and 0.3 liters of primer will be enough. Always take the material with a margin of 10–15% - when tinting, the shade may differ slightly from the standard.

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2. Preparing the car: removing old paint and rust

80% of the final result depends on the quality of preparation. Even the most expensive paint will not hide body defects. At this stage you need:

  1. Remove all plastic and chrome elements (headlights, grille, handles, moldings). If the part cannot be removed, cover it with masking tape.
  2. Remove old paint and rust. To do this, use a sander with a P80–P120 attachment. In hard-to-reach places (bends, welds), work manually with P80 sandpaper.
  3. Treat the surface rust converter (for example, Tsinkar or Kerrystar), if the corrosion has penetrated deeply.
  4. Fill dents and scratches. For deep defects, use fiberglass putty (Novol Plus Fiber), for small ones - universal (Body 9000).
  5. Sand the putty to a perfectly smooth surface (start with P180, finish with P400).

Key Point: After sanding, the body should be absolutely smooth. You can check this tactilely (move your hand - there should be no changes) or visually under oblique light. Any irregularities will be visible under the metallic paint, especially in the sun.

Abrasive Purpose Directions for use
P80–P120 Removing old paint and rust Grinder, dry method
P180–P240 Leveling after putty Hand sander or sander
P320–P400 Finishing before priming Wet sanding (with water)
P500–P600 Sanding the primer before painting Wet sanding
P1500–P2000 Polishing varnish Hand or machine polishing
⚠️ Attention: If there is one on the body aluminum parts (for example, the hood on BMW or Audi), use a separate sandpaper - abrasive from ordinary steel can clog aluminum and cause corrosion. For aluminum, aluminum oxide or silicon carbide (green sandpaper) is suitable.

After sanding, thoroughly blow off the body with compressed air (you can use a compressor or a can of compressed air to clean equipment) and wipe degreaser. Even fine dust or greasy stains will cause the paint to peel off.

3. Primer: choice of material and application technique

The primer performs three functions: it protects the metal from corrosion, evens out micro-irregularities and ensures paint adhesion. For metallics, two types of primer are used:

  • 🔹 Epoxy primer - the best choice for rust protection. It is applied in a thin layer (20–30 microns) and does not require sanding. Suitable for new or perfectly cleaned parts.
  • 🔹 Acrylic filler - used to level the surface. Apply in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying (10-15 minutes between layers). After drying, sand with P400–P500 sandpaper.

Step-by-step instructions for priming:

  1. Dilute the primer with hardener and solvent in the proportions indicated on the can (usually 4:1:1). Mix with a mixer on low speed to avoid bubbles.
  2. Adjust the pressure on the spray gun: 2.0–2.5 bar for epoxy primer, 2.5–3.0 bar for acrylic.
  3. Apply the first layer ("fog") - hold the gun 25-30 cm from the surface and move in parallel stripes with a 50% overlap.
  4. After 5-10 minutes, apply a second layer (for acrylic primer - 2-3 layers).
  5. Allow the primer to dry (1–2 hours at +20°C or 20–30 minutes with IR lamps).
  6. Wet sand the acrylic primer with P400-P500 sandpaper until matte.

To check the quality of the primer, use the “rule of the palm”: place your hand on the surface. If you feel unevenness, grind further. The ideal soil should be smooth as glass.

The primer is completely dry (check stickiness with your hand)

Surface matte and smooth (no shine)

No dust or lint (wipe with a tack cloth)

The pressure in the spray gun is adjusted (2.0–2.5 bar)

The paint is diluted according to the instructions (viscometer shows 18–20 sec) -->

4. Tinting and preparing metallic paint

Metallic is a two-component paint consisting of base pigment (responsible for color) and aluminum powder (gives a metallic effect). The main difficulty when tinting is to achieve an exact match of the shade with the original, especially if you are painting a separate part (for example, a bumper after an accident).

Here's how to properly prepare the paint:

  1. Find your car's color code. It is indicated on a plate (usually under the hood or on the door pillar) or on the vehicle title. For example, for Toyota Corolla 2020 popular color "Silver metallic" has a code 1G3.
  2. Buy base paint using this code. Best Brands for Metallics: Mobihel, Sikkens, PPG, DuPont. From budget - Vika or Reoflex.
  3. Check the shade on a test plate. Apply 2-3 layers of paint to a metal or plastic piece and compare it with the original color of the car in daylight.
  4. If the shade does not match, add a correction pigment (for example, to “warm” the color - a little yellow, to “cool” the color - blue). It is better to entrust tinting to a professional in the store.
  5. Dilute the paint with solvent (usually 2:1) and hardener (5–10% by volume). Stir and strain through a 120-190 micron filter.

A critical nuance: metallic always looks darker on the can than on the body. The final shade will appear only after applying the varnish. Therefore, be sure to varnish the test sample!

The temperature of the paint and the environment should be 18–22°C. If the garage is colder, use a heater (but don't point it directly at the bodywork - this will cause uneven drying).

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If you are painting a separate part (for example, a wing), first apply 1-2 layers of paint at the joints with adjacent elements, let it dry, and then cover the borders with masking tape. This will help avoid sudden color transitions.

5. Metallic painting technology: layers and drying

Metallic is applied in 2-3 thin layers with intermediate drying. Main rule: less is better, but more often. A thick layer will lead to drips and uneven distribution of metal particles.

Step by step process:

  1. Adjust the spray gun:
    • Pressure: 2.0–2.2 bar
    • Torch size: medium (10–12 cm)
    • Material consumption: 1.5–2 turns on the regulator
  • Apply the first layer (“fog”) - hold the gun at a distance of 20–25 cm, move at a speed of ~30 cm/sec. The layer should be translucent.
  • Let the paint dry for 5-10 minutes (until matte).
  • Apply a second layer - it should be more saturated, but without drips. Move in cross motions: first horizontally, then vertically.
  • If necessary, apply a third coat (if the color is not bright enough).
  • Let the paint dry for 30-60 minutes (or 15-20 minutes with IR lamps).

    • After metallic painting, be sure to apply varnish. It protects the paint from external influences and enhances shine. Varnish application technology:

    • Dilute the varnish with the hardener (see proportions on the can).
    • Adjust the spray gun: pressure 2.2–2.5 bar, spray 12–15 cm.
    • Apply 2-3 layers of varnish with intermediate drying for 5-10 minutes. The first layer is thin, the subsequent ones are denser.
    • Let the varnish dry for 24 hours at +20°C (or 12 hours with IR drying).
    ⚠️ Attention: If you paint plastic parts (bumper, spoiler), first apply to them adhesive primer (for example, Plastic Primer from 3M). Without it, the paint will peel off in 1-2 months.

    To avoid defects, watch out for:

    • 🌡️ Temperature — if the garage is hotter than +25°C, dilute the paint with a slow solvent.
    • 💨 Humidity — at humidity above 60% the paint will become cloudy (“orange peel effect”).
    • 🌀 Pistol movements - Start and end spraying outside the part.
    What to do if the metallic paint is applied unevenly?

    If, after drying, “spotting” (uneven distribution of metal particles) is visible, the reasons may be:

    1. Paint is too thick - add 5-10% thinner and mix.

    2. Incorrect distance of the gun - keep it exactly 20-25 cm from the surface.

    3. Uneven drying - use an IR lamp to ensure even heating.

    The defect can only be corrected by repainting or polishing with an abrasive paste (but this will reduce the thickness of the layer).

    6. Polishing and finishing

    After the varnish has completely dried (after 24–48 hours), begin polishing. It removes micro-irregularities, enhances shine and protects paint from UV rays. For metallics use two-stage polishing:

    1. Abrasive polishing — removes “orange peel” and minor defects. Use a paste with P1500–P2000 abrasive (e.g. 3M 05973) and a foam attachment for the sander. Mode: 1200–1500 rpm.
    2. Protective polishing - Applies a protective layer and adds depth to the color. Use a non-abrasive paste (eg 3M 05974) and a soft nozzle. Mode: 800–1000 rpm.

    Polishing technique:

    • Divide the body into zones (for example, hood, fender, door).
    • Apply a small amount of paste to the nozzle.
    • Polish in a criss-cross motion without staying in one place (2-3 seconds maximum).
    • After polishing, remove any remaining paste with microfiber.

    For long-term protection can be applied ceramic coating (for example, Ceramic Pro or Gyeon Quartz). It is expensive (from 5 thousand for 50 ml), but it extends the life of the paint to 3–5 years.

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    Metallic polishing can only begin after the varnish has completely dried (at least 48 hours at +20°C). If you polish earlier, the varnish will “tighten” and lose its shine.

    7. Common mistakes and how to avoid them

    Even experienced painters sometimes make mistakes when working with metallic paints. Here are the most common problems and their solutions:

    Defect Reason How to fix
    Mottled (uneven metallic) Incorrect gun distance or thick paint Repaint with correct thinning or polish
    Drips Layer too thick or gun movement slow Sand with P1200 then repaint
    Matte areas Moisture ingress or drying out too quickly Polish or repaint with proper drying
    Peeling paint Poor surface preparation or incorrect primer Remove paint down to metal and repaint
    Color doesn't match Wrong coloring or not enough layers Add corrective pigment or apply an additional layer

    To minimize risks, follow these tips:

    • 🔍 Always do a test spray on a separate piece or cardboard.
    • 🌡️ Control the temperature in the garage - ideally + 20–22°C.
    • 🕒 Take your time: maintain the recommended drying time between layers.
    • 🎨 Use a spray gun with a pressure gauge - the pressure should be stable.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Can I paint metallic without varnish?

    Technically possible, but not recommended. The varnish protects the paint from fading, scratches and adds depth to the color. Without varnish, metallic will quickly fade and begin to peel. If you want to save money, use one-component varnish (for example, Mobihel 1K), but its durability is lower than that of a two-component one.

    How many coats of metallic should I apply?

    Optimal - 2-3 layers. The first layer should be translucent ("fog"), the second - saturated, the third (if necessary) - corrective. The main thing is that each layer is thin and even. The thickness of the dry metallic layer should be 15–25 microns.

    How to avoid different colors when painting locally?

    Variation in tone occurs due to different thicknesses of paint or mismatch of shade. To avoid this:

    1. Tint the paint according to the original code, taking into account fading (for older cars, take a shade 1-2 shades lighter).
    2. Apply paint overlapping onto adjacent parts (by 5–10 cm).
    3. Use transition varnish (for example, Sikkens Autoclear Blending) for a smooth color transition.
    What is the difference between metallic and pearl?

    Both types of paint contain special pigments, but work differently:

    • Metallic — contains aluminum powder, which reflects light, creating a “sparkling” effect. The color looks cooler and more technical.
    • Mother of pearl - contains microscopic mica crystals that refract light, creating a rainbow effect. The color seems deeper and more “alive”, but is more difficult to tinting.

    The application technology is similar, but mother-of-pearl requires more precise tinting and is often applied in 3-4 layers.

    Is it possible to paint metallic in an unheated garage in winter?

    It is not recommended to paint at temperatures below +10°C - the paint will not flow well and will take a long time to dry. If there is no other option:

    • Use fast hardener (for example, PPG D8115).
    • Thin the paint slow solvent (for example, PPG DX330).
    • Heat your garage infrared lamps (do not point them directly at the body!).
    • Increase drying time between coats by 1.5–2 times.

    The best option is to postpone painting until the warmer months or rent a heated box.