Determining the exact paint code on the body is the only sure way to avoid noticeable stains and discrepancies during local repairs. Without searching for the factory code located on a plate in the engine compartment or on the door pillar, it is impossible to order a can that will blend with the main coating. A visual determination “by eye” in an auto chemical store is guaranteed to lead to the purchase of an unsuitable shade, since even the same color from different manufacturers has its own nuances.
The process of restoring paintwork requires not only the correct color, but also an understanding of the type of enamel, whether acrylic, metallic or base enamel under varnish A mistake in choosing the type of binder will result in fresh paint not drying correctly or blistering on top of the old paint. That is why, before going to the store, you need to arm yourself with accurate data from the VIN plate and clearly know which component is required for your case.
Finding the factory paint code on a car
The first and most critical step is to find the identification plate on which the manufacturer indicates the body color code. The location of this plate varies depending on the make and model of the car: most often it is located on the B-pillar under the driver's door, on the inside of the trunk lid, or in the engine compartment on the mudguard. In some cases, especially on older European models, the code may be stamped directly on the body or contained in the service book.
On the plate itself, the color code is usually indicated by an alphanumeric combination next to the markings COLOR, PAINT or FARBE. It is important not to confuse this code with the trim number or upholstery code, which are often located nearby. For an accurate determination, you can use online catalogs based on the car’s VIN code, where the exact factory paint code will be indicated in the body parts section.
⚠️ Attention: On high mileage vehicles, the paint may have faded or been repainted previously, so the factory code may not match the current body color. In such cases, computer selection is required.
If the decal is missing or unreadable, your remaining option is to physically remove a sample of the paint from an inconspicuous location, such as under the seat belt cover or inside the gas filler flap. This sample is then transferred to the colorist to analyze the spectrum and create a unique formula for mixing the components. However, for standard cans, searching for the factory code remains the fastest and cheapest solution.
Types of aerosol paints and their features
Automotive chemicals are divided into several main types, and understanding the difference between them is necessary for quality repairs. Acrylic enamels They are one-component compositions that, after drying, form a glossy surface and do not require the application of additional varnish. They are easier to use, forgive mistakes for beginners and are often used for painting plastic elements, rims or interior parts.
Unlike acrylic, metallics and mother of pearl are two-component systems where a base layer with an effect is first applied, and then a coating is required car varnish. Without varnish, the base enamel will look matte, quickly lose color and be washed off in the first wash. Therefore, when choosing an aerosol for a metallic body, you should automatically plan to purchase a can of varnish and solvent for the transition.
Difference between 1K and 2K inks
1K (one-component) dries by solvent evaporation and does not require a hardener. 2K (two-component) contains a hardener that triggers a chemical reaction, making the coating harder and more resistant to chemicals, but such canned compounds have a limited shelf life after activation.
It is also worth mentioning primers and varnishes that are sold in aerosols. Acidic soil necessary to protect the metal from corrosion before applying the main layers, and acrylic primer filler allows you to hide minor scratches and risks from sanding. The right combination of primer, paint and varnish ensures the durability of the repair and protects the body from moisture.
- 🎨 Acrylic: ready-made enamel, dries itself, does not require varnish, suitable for plastics and discs.
- ✨ Metallic/Pearl: requires mandatory application of varnish, difficult to shade the borders.
- 🛡️ Soils: a mandatory base for adhesion and anti-corrosion protection before painting.
Compatibility table for materials and coatings
When planning work, it is important to take into account the compatibility of materials so as not to cause peeling or a chemical reaction at the junction of layers. Below is a chart to help you determine which materials can be applied to each other when using aerosol cans.
| Type of old coating | Recommended primer | Type of aerosol paint | Do I need varnish? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bare metal | Acid or Epoxy | Any (after acrylic primer) | By paint type |
| Old enamel (whole) | Acrylic filler | Acrylic or Metallic | Only for metallic |
| Plastic (bumper) | Primer for plastic (Adhesion Promoter) | Flexible acrylic or plastic compound | Preferably if paint allows |
| Rust (cleaned) | Converter + Acid soil | Acrylic enamel | Not necessary |
Using the wrong primer, such as applying paint directly to the rust without a converter, will cause corrosion to continue underneath the new enamel. Adhesion (adhesion) is a key parameter, and for smooth plastics the use of special primers is mandatory. Ignoring this step is the most common cause of paint chipping on bumpers after a few months.
Shade selection technology and computer analysis
Even knowing the exact paint code, you may encounter a situation where the color in the cylinder differs from the car body. This occurs due to the natural fading of the pigment under ultraviolet light, exposure to reagents and time. The factory code indicates the recipe that was relevant at the time of production of the machine, but over 5-10 years of operation the real color could shift to yellow or fade.
To get the perfect color match, a computer selection method is used, where a specialist reads the reflectance spectrum from the surface of the car with a special device - a spectrophotometer. Based on the data obtained, the program adjusts the factory formula, adding the necessary pigments to compensate for fading. The result is a unique formulation, which is then mixed and filled into a pressurized aerosol can.
⚠️ Attention: When ordering paint by code, always check with the manufacturer to ensure the code matches the year of your vehicle, as formulas may have changed during the model year.
If you buy a ready-made cylinder in a store, be sure to test spray it on a metal plate or an inconspicuous area of the body. Let the paint dry completely (usually 24 hours) and compare in different lighting conditions: daylight, under a lamp, and in the shade. This is the only way to be sure that metamerism (the effect of changing shade under different light) will not spoil the result of the repair.
Surface preparation before applying aerosol
The quality of the final coating depends 80% on surface preparation, and spray painting is no exception. The process begins with washing and degreasing the repair area to remove bitumen, silicone and dirt. Then the damaged area is mechanically cleaned: chips and scratches are expanded and ground with abrasive P320-P400 to create scratches for the soil to cling to.
☑️ Checklist for preparation for painting
After sanding, it is necessary to apply primer. If the damage is deep, use filler primer in several thin layers with intermediate drying. After drying, the soil is sanded with abrasive P500-P600 for painting. The final stage of preparation is repeated degreasing and removing dust with compressed air or a sticky cloth, since any speck of dust under the aerosol layer will become a noticeable defect.
It is important to organize the workplace correctly: the temperature should be in the range from +18 to +25°C, and the humidity should not exceed 65%. Drafts and direct sunlight are unacceptable, as they cause the solvent to dry out too quickly, which leads to shagreen (orange peel) or clouding of the varnish.
Application technique and defect elimination
When working with an aerosol can, maintaining distance and hand speed is critical. The optimal distance from the nozzle to the surface is 20-25 cm. The movements should be smooth, reciprocating, with the beginning of spraying outside the boundary of the part and ending also outside it. This avoids paint accumulation at the beginning and end of the pass, which creates an even layer without drips.
The paint should be applied in 2-3 thin layers (for acrylic) or 2 base layers plus 2-3 layers of varnish (for metallic). Between layers, it is necessary to withstand the interlayer drying indicated on the can (usually 10-15 minutes) so that the solvent has time to evaporate. Trying to fill everything at once will lead to the formation of drips and a long drying time inside the layer.
The main secret to an even layer: do not try to paint over everything the first time. Three thin “foggy” layers are better than one greasy one that will bleed.
Possible defects, such as shagreen, can be eliminated by polishing after complete drying (after 3-4 weeks for varnish). If a drip has formed, it should not be touched immediately: you need to let the varnish completely polymerize, carefully sand off the drip with an abrasive P1200-P1500 and polish. Compliance with the technology allows you to obtain a result that differs little from the factory coating.
Is it possible to completely spray paint a car?
Theoretically it is possible, but in practice it is extremely labor-intensive and rarely gives an ideal result on large planes. The aerosol is suitable for local repairs, thresholds, arches or plastics. To completely paint the body, it is better to use a spray gun, since it is almost impossible to achieve uniform pressure and torch from the cylinder over a large area.
How long does it take for spray paint to dry?
Touch drying time is 20-40 minutes at +20°C. However, complete polymerization and hardening occur within 24 hours for acrylic and up to 7-14 days for varnish. The car can only be washed or polished after it has completely cured.
Do I need to dilute the paint in the can?
No, aerosol cans already contain the required amount of solvent and a mixing ball. Adding third-party solvents will disrupt the proportions and may damage the sprayer or the paint itself. Before use, the container must be shaken vigorously for 2-3 minutes.
How to store an unused cylinder?
Cylinders should be stored in a cool, dry place, away from sources of fire and direct sunlight. Storage temperature should not exceed +50°C and fall below 0°C. After use, it is recommended to turn the nozzle (nozzle) over and blow it out so that the paint in the channel does not dry out.