Sharp impacts of the drum on the body and the unit moving from its place when the rotation speed is increased are a direct signal of imbalance or failure of vibration damping units. Most often washing machine bounces due to trivially forgotten shipping bolts that rigidly fix the tank and prevent it from moving, turning vibration into destructive shaking of the entire body. If you have just installed the appliance and it is “jumping” around the bathroom, immediately check the back wall of the appliance for the presence of four bolts that need to be unscrewed before the first start.
However, if the equipment has been in use for a long time, the reason lies deeper: worn out shock absorbers, the suspension springs have weakened or the counterweights have become misaligned. Ignoring the problem leads to the unit hitting the communications, damaging the floor covering and ultimately destroying its own bearing assembly. In this article we will analyze in detail all the technical reasons why SM behaves aggressively, and we will provide a diagnostic algorithm for the models Bosch, LG, Samsung and other popular brands.
Shipping bolts: the most common installation mistakeThe first thing to check if your new washing machine vibrates and moves a lot is that there are fasteners that hold the tub in place during transport. The manufacturer fixes the tank with four bolts at the back (less often on the side or top) so that when shaking in the truck it does not damage the internal components. If they are not removed, the tank will not be able to absorb rotations, and all the spin energy will be transferred to the body, causing the device to literally jump around the room.
Removing these bolts is a simple procedure, but requires care. You will need a wrench (usually included) and the help of a second person to tilt the heavy unit. After removing the bolts, the plastic plugs included in the kit are inserted into the holes to maintain the tightness and aesthetics of the rear panel.
- 🔧 Find 4 bolts on the back wall of the case.
- 🔧 Loosen them with a key and unscrew them completely.
- 🔧 Save the bolts in case of repeated transportation.
- 🔧 Install decorative plugs into the holes.
⚠️ Attention: Operating the washing machine with the transport bolts screwed in leads to rapid destruction of the bearings and rupture of the tank. In this case the warranty does not apply.
Uneven installation and body misalignmentEven a working mechanism will shake if it is installed on an uneven base. Vibration during spin cycle often caused by the fact that one of the legs does not touch the floor or, on the contrary, raises the corner of the body. As a result, the center of gravity shifts, and at high speeds resonance occurs, increasing the beating significantly.
The horizontal level is checked using a building level, which is placed first on the top cover along the front panel, then across it. If the “bubble” deviates from the center, it is necessary to adjust the height of the legs. Most modern models have front legs with threaded adjustment that can be turned by hand or with a key, and the rear legs are often fixed, but also adjustable.
☑️ Diagnostics of stability
After leveling, be sure to tighten the locknuts on the adjustable feet. This will fix their position and prevent spontaneous unwinding due to vibration. If the floor is slippery (for example, smooth tiles), it is recommended to use special anti-vibration mats or pads under the feet, which will increase traction with the surface.
Wear of shock absorbers and suspension springsOver time, the parts responsible for damping vibrations lose their properties. Shock absorbers in washing machines work on the principle of automobile ones, but in miniature: they compress and expand, absorbing the rotational energy of wet laundry. When their rods wear out or damper fluid leaks out, they stop resisting movement, and the tank begins to dangle freely, hitting the walls of the housing.
Diagnostics of shock absorbers is simple: open the hatch, grab the edge of the drum and try to sharply press it from top to bottom, releasing it at the lowest point. If the tank jumped and immediately stopped, the shock absorbers are working properly. If he began to make pendulum movements (2-3 or more swings), it means shock absorbers have exhausted their resource and require replacement.
How to change shock absorbers
To replace, you need to remove the top cover and the front panel (or back, depending on the model). Shock absorbers are attached to the tank and the bottom of the body with plastic or metal clips. Remove the old parts and install the new ones by snapping the clips into place.
The suspension springs on which the tank hangs can also stretch or burst. Visually inspect them through the top hatch (removing the cover). If the coils of the spring are stretched unevenly or metal without paint is visible (a sign of overstress), the part needs to be replaced. Often the entire set is replaced: both shock absorbers and both springs to ensure uniform suspension operation.
Problems with counterweights and their fasteningThe concrete or cast iron blocks attached to the tank are called counterweights. Their task is to make the structure heavier in order to dampen the inertia during spinning. If the counterweight fastening is loose (a bolt bursts, concrete crumbles, a screw comes out), a severe imbalance occurs. In this case, the machine not only trembles, but emits a characteristic dull knock and can “run away” a few centimeters from the wall.
You can identify the problem by a characteristic sound: the ringing of metal on concrete or the dull impacts of a heavy load on the body. To check, you will need to remove the top and possibly the front panel to gain access to the weight securing areas. Visually inspect the integrity of the concrete blocks and the tightness of the bolts.
Critical: If the concrete counterweight shows deep cracks or is split in half, it cannot simply be glued back together. A complete replacement of the part is required, since the geometry of the weight distribution is disrupted, which will lead to repeated failure.Wear of the bearing unit and oil sealWhen the washing machine hums like a plane and shakes violently, the problem may lie in the bearings. This is one of the most serious faults. Water with detergent gradually washes away the lubricant, the oil seal (cuff) loses elasticity and allows water to pass to the bearing. Corrosion begins, the bearing breaks, the shaft warps, and the drum begins to play.
The play is checked manually: open the door, grab the top edge of the drum and rock it up and down. If a gap is noticeable between the tank and the hatch body or a crunching sound is heard when turning it by hand, the bearing assembly requires replacement. In modern models, the entire tank assembly is often replaced, since the bearings are pressed in and cannot be replaced separately without special equipment.
| Symptom | Probable Cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Strong shaking, hum | Bearing failure | High (tank disassembly) |
| Jumping, shifting | Shock absorber wear | Medium (parts replacement) |
| Knocking, beating | Loosening the counterweight | Medium (tightening/replacement) |
| Vibration at start | Transport bolts | Low (unscrew the bolts) |
Linen imbalance and overloadThe reason does not always lie in a breakdown. Often users themselves provoke jumps by violating the operating rules. Linen imbalance occurs when there is one heavy, wet item in the drum (such as jeans or a robe) that sticks to one side and is not distributed evenly. Centrifugal force throws this mass towards one point, causing a sharp impact.
Overload also has a negative impact. If you load the machine above the norm specified in the instructions, the mechanism will not be able to distribute the weight correctly and the balancing system will not cope. In modern models with electron