The situation when the classic car VAZ, popularly called "Zhiguli", suddenly refuses to start, is familiar to many owners. This can happen at the most inopportune moment: on a frosty morning, in the rain or in the middle of a clean field. Panic in such a situation is not worth it, as the design of these cars is simple and logical, which allows you to conduct primary diagnostics even in the field without complex equipment. Understanding the internal combustion engine will help to localize the problem in minutes.
To successfully start the engine requires three key components: a good ignition system, uninterrupted fuel supply and normal compression in the cylinders. If one of these elements falls out of the equation, the motor stalls or simply scrolls the starter without grasping. Owners of good old "Kopek", "Treshek" and "Seven" often face this, especially if the car has stood without movement for a long time. We will then discuss in detail where to look for the reason for the refusal.
Primary diagnosis: is the starter spinning or silent?
The first step when trying to start a car is to evaluate the work. starter. If you hear the characteristic click of the retracting relay when you turn the key in the ignition lock, but the rotor does not rotate, or only a quiet crackle is heard, the problem lies in the electrical circuit of the start. This can be a discharged battery, oxidized terminals or a malfunction of the launcher itself. In this situation, the engine does not even try to start work, since there is no mechanical rotation of the crankshaft.
A completely different picture is observed when the starter cheerfully and quickly turns the engine flywheel, but flashes in the cylinders do not occur. This means that the mechanical part is in good working order and the crankshaft is rotating at a speed sufficient to start. In this case, VAZ 2106 or VAZ 2107 It does not start because of lack of spark or fuel. It is important to listen to the nature of the rotation: if the starter spins sluggishly, despite the charged battery, perhaps the oil in the engine is too thick or there is a mechanical jamming.
Owners of injection models, such as VAZ 21074It is worth paying attention to the work of the fuel pump. When the ignition is turned on, even before the starter is scrolled, a quiet buzzing should be heard from under the back seat. This is a gas pump that creates pressure in the ramp. If this sound is not present, the engine control system does not receive the signal or the pump is faulty and the fuel simply does not flow to the injectors. In carburetor versions, this stage is absent, since the fuel supply occurs by gravity or under dilution.
⚠️ Attention! If the starter emits a piercing screech after starting the engine, immediately turn off the engine. This means that the bendix did not come out of the grip with the flywheel, which can lead to the destruction of the starter gear or flywheel crown.
Ignition system: search for sparks on the classics
Lack of spark is one of the most common reasons why they don’t start jiguli. On classic models of VAZ with contact ignition system (CIZ) or contactless (CSZ) check begins with the central wire going from the coil to the trambler. It is necessary to remove the wire from the lid of the distributor, bring it to the metal part of the engine (mass) at a distance of 5-7 mm and spin the starter. A powerful blue spark, skipping with a characteristic crack, indicates the serviceability of the coil and switch (if any).
If there is a spark on the central wire, but the engine does not catch, the problem lies inside the ignition distributor. First of all, you should check. runner and trampoline. Often, a stain forms inside the lid, which conducts current past the electrodes, or penetrates the plastic itself, especially in wet weather. The corner in the center of the cover can become oxidized or clogged, disrupting contact. Visual inspection and dry rag wipe sometimes bring the system back to life.
When checking for sparks, hold the wire with passages with insulated handles or wear rubber gloves. Direct contact with a high-voltage wire while scrolling by a starter can lead to an unpleasant, though not fatal, shock.
Particular attention should be paid to the setting break-out (for CSZ) or serviceability of the Hall sensor (for HSV). Too large or small gap leads to a shift in the angle of ignition advance, because of which the mixture does not ignite at the right time. For the Hall sensor, the presence of a gap between it and the rotor magnetic conductor is critical. Also, we should not forget about switchboard, which on the "Zhiguli" often fails suddenly and for no apparent reason, completely breaking off spark formation.
- 🔌 Contact groupCheck the integrity of the low voltage wires going to the coil. They are often broken at the very outlet of the coil.
- ⚡ Switch: On the BSP, replacing the switch is the fastest way to check its performance, since it is difficult to call the multimeter.
- 🔋 CapacitorIn the contact ignition system, a burned capacitor leads to a strong sparking of the contacts and the disappearance of the spark on the candles.
How to check the ignition coil with a multimeter?
The resistance of the primary winding should be about 0.4-0.5 Ohms, and the secondary - 4.5-5.5 kOhms. If the readings are very different or show a cliff, the coil must be replaced. Also check the resistance between the terminals and the case - it should not be.
Problems with the fuel system of carburetor models
VAZ carburetor engines, such as the VAZ 2101 or VA 2105They are simple, but require regular adjustment. If there is a spark, the starter spins cheerfully, and the car does not start, most likely, gasoline does not enter the cylinders. The first thing you need to remove the air filter cover and look into the neck of the carburetor when the starter is working. If the gasoline does not splash from the accelerator pump when pressed on the gas pedal, then the fuel does not reach the carburetor.
A common cause is clogging of the mesh filter in the carburetor plug or valve needle. Garbage, rust from the tank or paraffin (in winter) block the access of fuel. Could have been out of order, too. fuel-pump ("frog"), which pumps gasoline due to the eccentric on the camshaft. If the pump pusher is worn or the diaphragm is broken, gasoline will not get into the float chamber. You can check the pump by disconnecting the feed hose and twisting the starter - gasoline should beat with a pulsating stream from the hole.
☑️ Fuel feed check
Another important aspect is the system sucker. With cold start it is necessary to fully pull the handle of the air valve drive. If you forget to do this, the mixture will be too poor for a cold engine, and it will not start. Conversely, if you overshoot the pump or "flip" the engine (pump the gas pedal many times with a idle engine), the candles will flood with fuel, and the spark will cease to break through. In the latter case, the cylinder purging mode will help: twist the candles, pinch the gas pedal into the floor and twist the starter for several seconds.
| Symptoms. | Probable cause | Elimination method |
|---|---|---|
| Gasoline doesn't come into the carburetor | Filter clogged or pump malfunctioned | Clean the filter, replace the diaphragm of the pump |
| The engine "sneezes" into the carburetor | Poor mixture or early ignition | Check the fuel level, set up the UHC |
| Black smoke from the exhaust | Re-enriched mixture | Check the needle valve, level in the float |
| Starts and dies right away. | The electromagnetic valve is not working. | Check the valve power or remove the chickler |
Injection Zhiguli: features of electronic control
With the transition to injection engine control systems (for example, January 5.1 or Bosch M1.5.4 on the engine). VAZ 2107 In recent years, the diagnosis has become more difficult, but more reliable. Here's where the lead role is played. EBOU (electronic control unit). If you do not start "Zhiguli" with an injector, the first thing you need to pay attention to the indicator "Check Engine". When the ignition is turned on, it shall light up. If the lamp is not burning, the ECU itself may not work or there is no power on the diagnostic connector.
A critical element for launching is crankshaft position sensor (DPKV). This is the only sensor without which the engine will not start at all. If it is faulty or the gap between it and the pulley is broken, the ECU "does not see" the engine rotation and does not give a command to spark and injection. Often the problem lies in the banal cliff wire or contamination of the sensor with metal shavings. The check is carried out by a multimeter: the resistance of the winding should be within 500-700 Ohms.
On injection Zhiguli, the lack of pressure in the fuel ramp (less than 2.8-3.2 atm) is most often caused by a malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator or the gasoline pump itself, rather than the injectors.
It's worth checking out. idler and air mass flow sensor (MADR). Although when their malfunction machine most often starts and stalls or works unstable, completely refuse to check them can not. System errors can be considered through the OBD-II diagnostic connector or a special VAZ connector using a laptop or a simple scanner. Error codes will indicate the direction of the search, such as a break in the nozzle chain or an incorrect signal from the temperature sensor.
- 🛢️ Pressure in the ramp.: The pressure gauge must be connected. If the pump is buzzing but there is no pressure, the gas pump net in the tank may be clogged.
- 🌡️ Temperature sensorIf the ECU “thinks” the engine is cold (-40°C), it pours a lot of fuel and the candles flood. If it is considered hot (+90 ° C) in real frost, the mixture will be poor.
- 🔒 Immobilizer: On newer models, the reason may be the desynchronization of the key and control unit. The immobilizer lamp will flash.
Compression and mechanical failures of the engine
If the ignition and power systems are serviceable, and the starter turns the engine at a normal speed, but there are no flashes, it is worth thinking about the mechanical part. Absence compression A sure sign of serious problems. The compression measurement is made by a compressometer through candle holes. For normal start of the VAZ gasoline engine, a pressure of at least 9-10 atmospheres is required. If the pressure in one or more cylinders is much lower, the engine will not be tripled, it will simply not start.
The causes of low compression can be different: from the occurrence of piston-ring before the valves burn. On the "Zhiguly" often occurs break of the belt timing (if the engine 2105 with a belt) or jumping the chain. In this case, the gas distribution phases are disrupted, and the valves open at the wrong times when they should. If the belt breaks on some VAZ engines bends the valve, then repairs will need capital. Checking GRM tags is a mandatory stage of deep diagnostics.
⚠️ Attention! If you hear strong claps when you scroll with a starter from the exhaust pipe or air filter, stop starting attempts immediately. This is a sign of a disruption of the gas distribution phases, and further scrolling can lead to collision of the pistons with the valves.
Another reason for the lack of compression can be the "hang" of the valves due to soak or breakage of the valve springs. It is also worth mentioning the possibility of water or antifreeze entering the cylinders through a pierced gasket of the HBC. In this case, from the exhaust pipe when trying to start will go thick white steam, and the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank will fall. The oil in this case acquires the color “coffee with milk”, which is also an alarming signal.
Can I start the car with a pusher if there is no compression?
No, launch from the pusher is possible only in the presence of compression, a serviceable spark and fuel. The lack of compression makes the start in any way impossible without engine repair.
The impact of weather and seasonal problems
In winter, the list of reasons why Zhiguli is not started is replenished with specific factors. Low temperature drastically reduces the return of the battery, increases the viscosity of the oil and changes the evaporation of the fuel. condensate In the fuel system can freeze in the form of an ice plug, blocking the path of gasoline. In carburetor models, condensate in the carburetor itself often freezes, blocking the jellyplates or throttle.
Wet weather (rain, fog) creates problems for the ignition system. High voltage seeks the path of least resistance, and if insulation is high-voltage or the tramblor lid is broken, the spark will punch through the mass, without reaching the candles. In such conditions, the treatment of contacts and wires with special aerosols-moisture suppressors (WD-40 and analogues) helps, as well as the content of the under-hood space in dryness.
In the summer, the main problem becomes steam-coop in the fuel system. In extreme heat, gasoline in hoses or pumps can boil, turning into gas. The gas plug blocks the supply of liquid fuel, and the engine stalls, refusing to start until cooling. Helps watering the gas pump and hoses with cold water or temporary shelter from direct sunlight and engine heat.
- ❄️ WinterUse winter oil, watch the battery charge, use essential sprays for start-up (caution!).
- 🌧️ RainDry the trampler, check the wires for a break in the dark (sparks are visible).
- ☀️ Heat.Protect fuel lines from heating, use gasoline with the correct octane number.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why do they get jiguli and immediately die?
Most often this is due to a malfunction of the electromagnetic valve of the carburetor (in the classic) or the regulator of idling (in the injector). Also, the reason may be in the sucking of excess air through the gaskets of the intake manifold or carburetor, which impoverishes the mixture to the limit.
Can I start Giguli if the battery is down?
Yes, if the car has a manual transmission. This requires a push (other cars or people) or a descent from the slide. You need to turn on the ignition, second or third gear, squeeze the clutch, accelerate and sharply drop the clutch. Carburetor models are often started even at a very weak charge, since the spark is needed only at the time of start-up, and injector models require minimal voltage for the operation of the ECU and the pump.
What to do if you put candles on the jiguli?
You need to twist candles, wipe them dry and calcinate them over the fire (to remove the stain and moisture). Then, inserting the candles back (without twisting to the end) or without them, squeeze the gas pedal into the floor (purge mode) and spin the starter 5-10 seconds. This will remove excess gasoline from the cylinders. Then, spin the dry candles and try to start the engine.
How to check if there is a spark without a high-voltage wire?
There is no safe way to “wireless” because you need to contact the central electrode. However, you can use a spare candle tip or simply insert a candle into the central wire, press it with a thread to the mass of the engine and spin the starter, watching the spark slip between the electrodes of the candle. You can't hold the candle with your hands!