Why does the car start the second (third) time: reasons and solutions

The situation is familiar to many: you turn the key, the starter turns vigorously, but the engine does not catch. A second attempt and the engine comes to life. Sometimes a third one is required. Such starting instability is not just annoying, but also signals hidden problems. The symptom cannot be ignored: Over time, “second time” can turn into “never.”

In 80% of cases they are to blame fuel system, ignition or electrician, but there are also less obvious reasons - from dirty injectors to ECU errors. In this article we will analyze all possible reasons (including rare ones), diagnostic methods without a service station and step-by-step instructions for elimination. We will pay special attention to models with injector and carburetor, as well as diesel engines, where the fault logic is different.

⚠️ Critical Warning: If the car starts the second time only for hot, the problem may be related to temperature sensor malfunction or air leak through cracks in the manifold. In this case, further operation without repair leads to overheating of the catalyst and its destruction (replacement cost from 30,000 ₽).

1. Weak battery or electrical problems

Let's start with the most obvious: battery. If the voltage is lower 11.8 V, the starter turns sluggishly, and the ECU and fuel pump may not receive enough energy to operate correctly. But even with normal voltage, the problem may lie in:

• 🔋 Oxidized terminals — create parasitic resistance, which causes the voltage to “sag” during startup.
• 🔌 Poor ground contact — the attachment point to the body or engine often oxidizes.
• ⚡ Faulty starter — worn brushes or bearings cause it to “dull” when first started.

How to check:

1. Measure the voltage at the terminals with the ignition off (must be 12.6–12.7 V).
2. Ask a helper to turn the starter and measure the voltage again - if it drops below 10 V, the battery is low or faulty.
3. Check voltage at the positive terminal of the starter during start-up (must be at least 9 V).

⚠️ Attention: If, after parking at night, the car starts the first time, and during the day - the second time, it’s your fault generator, which undercharges the battery. Check its output voltage at idle speed (13.8–14.4 V).

2. Problems with the fuel system

If the battery is fine, but the engine doesn't "catch" the first time, the fuel system is to blame. Let's look at typical scenarios:

Symptom	Probable Cause	How to check
The starter turns, but the engine does not start for 3–5 seconds, then it seizes	Low fuel rail pressure	Measure the pressure with a pressure gauge (standard: 2.8–3.2 bar for injector)
Starts the second time, idles rough	Dirty injectors	Testing on a bench or adding a cleaner to the fuel
The problem appears after refueling	Bad fuel (low octane, water)	Drain fuel, wash tank

Vehicles with direct injection system (GDI, TSI, EcoBoost), where the injectors clog faster. For example, on Volkswagen Passat B6 with engine 1.8 TSI the problem is often related to air leaks through cracks in the intake manifold.

🔧 Self-diagnosis:

1. After an unsuccessful start, unscrew the spark plug - if it is dry, gasoline will not flow.
2. Listen to the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition (it should hum for 2-3 seconds).
3. On carburetor cars, check the gasoline level in the float chamber.

3. Ignition system malfunctions

If fuel is supplied, but the engine does not start the first time, the problem may be:

• 🔥 Spark plugs - worn or dirty spark plugs produce a weak spark.
• 📶 High voltage wires — breakdowns or increased resistance.
• 🔧 Ignition coil(s) - especially relevant for engines with individual coils (Renault 1.6 16V, Kia/Hyundai G4FC).
• 📊 Crankshaft position sensor (CPS) — if he “lies”, the ECU incorrectly calculates the ignition timing.

💡 How to quickly check:

1. In the dark, open the hood and start the engine - if visible sparks or flashes on the wires, they are broken.
2. Swap the high-voltage wires - if the problem “moves” to another cylinder, the wire is to blame.
3. On engines with individual coils (for example VAG 2.0 TFSI) swap the coils - if the misfire has moved, the coil is faulty.

⚠️ Attention: On machines with DIS ignition system (for example, Opel Astra H 1.6) a faulty coil can lead to catalyst overheating due to misfire. If you ignore the problem, repairs will cost 50 000+ ₽.

How to check DPKV without a scanner?

Disconnect the sensor connector and measure the resistance with a multimeter (standard: 550–750 Ohms). Also check for metal shavings at the end of the sensor - this indicates wear on the flywheel ring.

4. Sensors and electronic faults

Modern cars depend on sensors. If at least one of them is lying, the ECU may incorrectly calculate the mixture composition or ignition timing. Most often the culprits are:

• 🌡️ Coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH) - if it shows -40°C when the engine is warm, the ECU enriches the mixture, and the car “floods” the spark plugs.
• 💨 Mass air flow sensor (MAF) — a dirty sensor underestimates the readings, causing the mixture to become lean.
• 🔄 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - if it is “buggy”, the idle speed floats and the engine stalls when starting.

🔧 Diagnostics:

1. Read errors by scanner (ELM327 or ScanTool). Codes P0115–P0119 will indicate problems with DTOZH, P0100–P0104 - with DMRV.
2. Check sensor readings in real time. For example, the mass air flow sensor at idle should show 8–12 kg/h for a 1.6-liter engine.
3. On carburetor cars (for example, VAZ 2107) check forced idle economizer (EFHH) — its malfunction often leads to starting problems.

📌 Case study: On Toyota Corolla E150 with engine 1ZR-FE the car started the second time due to faulty absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor). Symptoms: error P0106, floating speed, increased fuel consumption.

5. Problems with diesel engines

On diesel engines, the logic of faults is different. If the car starts the second time, check:

• ⛽ Glow plugs - even one non-working spark plug makes starting difficult, especially in winter.
• 🔥 Fuel injectors - worn injectors do not spray fuel well, which is why the mixture does not ignite immediately.
• 💨 EGR valve - if it is stuck in the open position, too much exhaust gas enters the intake manifold, and the engine “chokes”.
• 🔧 Fuel injection pump (high pressure fuel pump) — wear of the plunger pairs leads to a drop in pressure.

🔍 Diesel diagnostics:

1. Check the glow plugs - they should heat up to red in 5-10 seconds (use a tester or visual inspection).
2. Measure the compression - normal for a diesel engine 28–32 kg/cm² (on gasoline - 10–12 kg/cm²).
3. Inspect the fuel lines for air leak - even a microcrack can cause starting problems.

⚠️ Attention: On diesels Common Rail (for example, Mercedes OM642 or BMW M57) low-quality fuel can destroy injectors in 1–2 refuelings. If after refueling the car becomes difficult to start, drain the fuel and flush the system.

6. Mechanical problems

Sometimes the problem lies in the mechanics:

• 🔗 Timing belt/chain - if it jumps 1-2 teeth, the valve timing is off and the engine doesn’t start well.
• 🔄 Worn rings or cylinders - low compression leads to poor compression of the mixture.
• 💨 Air leak through cracks in the manifold or gaskets.
• 🛢️ Position of piston rings - especially relevant for used cars > 200,000 km.

🔧 How to check:

1. Remove the cylinder head cover and check that the timing marks match.
2. Measure the compression - the spread between the cylinders should not exceed 10%.
3. Inspect the intake manifold for cracks (especially important for plastic manifolds on VW, Audi, Skoda).

📌 Example: On Ford Focus 2 with engine 1.6 Ti-VCT the car started the second time due to cracks in the intake manifold after 180,000 km. Symptoms: error P0171 (lean mixture), floating speed.

7. External factors: weather, fuel, driving style

Sometimes the problem is not in the car, but in external conditions:

• ❄️ Cold weather — the oil thickens, the battery loses capacity, and the fuel evaporates worse.
• ⛽ Bad fuel - low octane number or water in gasoline impairs ignition.
• 🚗 Short trips — if you drive only short distances, the battery does not have time to charge, and the fuel does not warm up to operating temperature.
• 🔥 Engine overheating - if the car starts the second time hot, check temperature sensor and thermostat.

🔹 What to do:

1. In winter, use oil with a viscosity 0W-20 or 5W-30.
2. Refuel at trusted gas stations (avoid “no-name” chains).
3. If you don't travel much, go once a month 30–50 km on the highway to warm up the engine and charge the battery.

8. Diagnostics and troubleshooting

Problem search algorithm:

1. Check the battery and electrical (voltage, terminals, ground).
2. Diagnose the fuel system (pressure, filter, pump).
3. Inspect the ignition system (spark plugs, wires, coils).
4. Read ECU errors scanner.
5. Check the mechanics (timing, compression, air leaks).

🔧 Quick solutions (if there is no time for diagnostics):

• 🔋 Replace the battery (if it is > 4 years old).
• ⛽ Add injector cleaner to the tank (Liqui Moly, Wynns).
• 🔥 Change the spark plugs (recommended interval is 30,000 km for ordinary 100,000 km for iridium).
• 💻 Reset the ECU adaptations (by removing the battery terminal for 10 minutes).

⚠️ Attention: If the problem remains after replacing the spark plugs or cleaning the injectors, don't continue the experiments - consult a diagnostician. For example, on Audi A4 B7 with engine 2.0 TFSI Replacing coils on your own without checking the ECU can lead to damage to transistors in the control unit (repair from 20 000 ₽).

❓ Why does the car start the second time only when it’s cold?

This is a typical symptom faulty temperature sensor (DTOZH) or air leak. When cold, the ECU enriches the mixture, but if the sensor is lying, the fuel does not burn completely and the spark plugs are flooded. Also check idle air control - When cold it can jam.

❓ Could bad oil be the cause?

Yes, if the oil is too thick (eg 15W-40 in winter) or has lost its properties. It is harder for the starter to turn the crankshaft, and viscous oil creates additional resistance. Also, old oil can clog oil channels, impairing the performance of hydraulic compensators (on machines with VVT-i, Vanos).

❓ Why does diesel start the second time, but gasoline doesn’t?

Diesels are more sensitive to compression and fuel quality. If the compression is lower 25 kg/cm² or the fuel is poorly atomized (due to worn injectors), the mixture does not ignite the first time. Gasoline engines are more tolerant of compression loss (the norm 10–12 kg/cm²).

❓ How does driving style affect startup?

If you frequently drive short distances, the engine does not warm up to operating temperature, and condensation accumulates in the system. This leads to:

• Corrosion of injectors and fuel lines.
• Contamination of spark plugs with soot.
• Deterioration of the properties of the oil (it does not have time to heat up and “flush” the engine).

Recommendation: Drive once a week 20–30 km on the highway at revs 2500–3000 rpm.

❓ Is it possible to drive if the car starts the second time?

In the short term - yes, but this is fraught with:

• Increased wear on the starter (resource ~ 80,000–100,000 starts).
• Catalyst overheating due to misfires (especially on injection cars).
• Complete startup failure at the most inopportune moment.

If the problem appears suddenly, check battery and terminals. If it progresses, seek immediate diagnosis.