Mechanic's Brochure My Summer Car is a 24-page manual in Finnish that the player receives in the garage after purchase Satsuma. Without her understanding, car repair turns into a random method: from incorrect engine assembly to short circuits in electrical wiring. The main problem is the lack of an official Russian translation, and automatic services (like Google Translate) distort technical terms and connection diagrams. For example, the word "jakopää" (distributor) is often translated as “armature head,” which is misleading when setting the ignition.
This article contains a component-by-component translation of the brochure with explanations for key components Satsuma: from cylinder head bolt tightening order up to wire color coding in the ignition system. We will also look at typical mistakes that players make when blindly following patterns (for example, confusing kytkin — clutch — with kaasutin — carburetor), and we’ll give you a checklist to check the assembly before starting the engine for the first time.
Brochure structure: what to look for where
The brochure is divided into 5 logical blocks, each of which is dedicated to a separate vehicle system. The pages are numbered, but their order does not always correspond to the sequence of repairs. For example, wiring diagram (pages 18–19) will be needed before assembling the engine if you plan to test the ignition with a multimeter.
Key sections and their priority during repairs:
- 🔧 Page 2–5: General information about Satsuma — weight, dimensions, recommended oil (
10W-40). Here is a table of tightening torques for the crank mechanism. - ⚡ Page 6–9: Electrical diagram and fuse locations. Attention: on page 7 the polarization of the battery is indicated - plus is on the right!
- 🔥 Page 10–13: Ignition system and distributor settings. The most difficult section - mistakes here lead to detonation.
- 💨 Page 14–17: Carburetor Weber 32/34 DMTL — adjustment of jets and fuel level in the float chamber.
- 🛠️ Page 20–24: Clutch, gearbox and brake system. The brake bleeding diagram on page 22 is often ignored, resulting in a soft pedal.
Important: on page 3 below in small print it is indicated engine serial number your Satsuma (generated randomly when creating a world). It must be entered when ordering spare parts from Teimo’s Shop - otherwise they will sell you parts from another modification.
Translation of key terms: Finnish → Russian
The main pitfall of the brochure is the literal translation of technical terms, which does not coincide with generally accepted auto terminology. For example, moottori — this is not a “motor” (as online services translate), but engine in general. Below is a table of the most critical words with explanations:
| Finnish term | Incorrect translation | Correct translation | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
jakopää | "Anchor Head" | Distributor | Regulates ignition timing. On page 11 there is a wiring diagram for the coil. |
kaasutin | "Gasifier" | Carburetor | Model Weber 32/34 DMTL. On page 15 - setting the idle speed. |
kytkin | "Switch" | Clutch | On page 20 - the procedure for pumping hydraulics. |
vaihteisto | "Switch" | Gearbox | 4-speed manual transmission. Switching diagram - on page 21. |
jarrujärjestelmä | "Brake system" | Brakes (hydraulic, with vacuum booster) | On page 22 - bleeding order: right rear → left rear → right front → left front. |
Pay special attention to the term sytytystulppa - this is spark plug. The brochure shows the gap between the electrodes: 0.7–0.9 mm. If the gap is larger, the engine will “triple” at high speeds. Check with a dipstick!
To quickly find the term you need in a brochure, use the combination Ctrl+F in PDF version (it can be downloaded from the website My Summer Car Wiki). For example, searching by word öljy (oil) will display all references to lubricants.
Wiring diagrams: decoding colors and connectors
The wiring diagram on pages 18-19 is the most requested part of the brochure, but without knowing the color codes it is useless. B My Summer Car are used European wiring standards from the 1970s, where:
- 🔴 Red — positive from the battery to the ignition coil.
- 🟢 Green - minus (mass). All green wires must be securely fastened to the body!
- 🟡 Yellow — power supply for headlights and dimensions. Goes through the fuse
F3(5A). - 🔵 Blue — signal from the distributor to the coil. Attention: If mixed with red, the coil will burn out.
- ⚪ White — coolant temperature sensor. Connects to the dashboard.
Common mistake: players connect generator (page 19, designated as lataus) directly to the battery, bypassing the relay regulator. This leads to overcharging and boiling of the electrolyte. Correct diagram:
- Generator → relay regulator (black block under the hood).
- Relay-regulator → battery through fuse
F1(10A).
Where can I download a high quality wiring diagram?
On the website My Summer Car Wiki in the "Electrical Wiring" section there is an interactive diagram with the ability to enable/disable circuits. There is also a printable file in A3 format (recommended for clarity).
Setting up the ignition: step-by-step instructions from the brochure
Incorrect ignition timing is the main reason why Satsuma does not start or runs intermittently. The brochure (pages 10–11) shows the advance angle 10° ± 2°, but it needs to be adjusted depending on the fuel:
- 🟢 95 gasoline: angle
10°(standard). - 🟡 98 gasoline: angle
12°(for better dynamics). - 🔴 Moonshine or low octane fuel: angle
8°, otherwise there will be detonation.
Setting procedure:
- Align the piston of the 1st cylinder to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. To do this, remove the spark plug and insert a screwdriver into the spark plug hole - you will feel the moment of maximum lift.
- Loosen the distributor bolt (
jakopää) and turn its body counterclockwise to increase the angle (or clockwise to decrease it). - Connect strobe (can be purchased from Teimo for 150€) to the coil terminal and direct it to the crankshaft pulley. The mark on the pulley must match the mark
10°on the timing cover.
Is the advance angle set (page 11)?|Is the blue wire from the distributor connected to the coil?|Is the distributor bolt tightened (torque 1.5 Nm)?|Have the spark plugs been checked for clearance and carbon deposits?-->
Attention: If after tuning the engine “shoots” at the carburetor, it means the ignition is too early. Turn the distributor clockwise 2–3° and repeat the check.
Carburetor Weber 32/34 DMTL: adjustment according to the brochure
Carburetor in My Summer Car - simplified model Weber 32/34 DMTL, but with realistic settings. The brochure (pages 14–17) shows the factory parameters:
- 🔧 Idling: 800–900 rpm (adjustable by screw
sekoitusruuvi- mixture quality screw). - 💧 Fuel level in the float chamber: 18–20 mm from the top edge. Checked after removing the top cover.
- 🌀 Jets:
- Main fuel:
125 - Main air:
170 - Idling speed:
50
- Main fuel:
Setting algorithm:
- Warm up the engine to operating temperature (temperature gauge arrow in the middle of the scale).
- Screw
kaasuläppä(throttle) set the speed to 1000 rpm. - Screw
sekoitusruuvireach maximum speed, then return it to 800-900 rpm. - Check the response to a sharp throttle opening - the engine should not stall.
⚠️ Attention: If the carburetor “spits” gasoline when you press the gas, it means the float chamber is overflowing. Reasons:
- The needle valve is dirty.
- The float has a crack (needs to be replaced).
- The fuel level is above 20 mm (adjust the float tongue).
Common mistakes when following a brochure
Even with the translation of the brochure, players make critical mistakes that lead to breakdowns. Here are the top 5 mistakes and their consequences:
| Error | Consequence | How to fix |
|---|---|---|
| Ignition coil wires mixed up (red and blue) | The coil or distributor burns out | Swap places, check fuse F2 |
| Brakes not bled after assembly | "Soft" pedal, brake fluid leak | Bleed in the order: rear-right → rear-left → front-right → front-left |
| Tightening cylinder head bolts without a torque wrench | The cylinder head gasket burns out and antifreeze gets into the oil. | Tighten in 3 stages: 30 Nm → 60 Nm → 90 Nm (page 4) |
| Ignoring timing marks during assembly | The pistons hit the valves, the engine seizes | Place marks on the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket (page 5) |
| Refueling with low-octane fuel without ignition adjustment | Detonation, pistons burn out | Reduce the advance angle to 8° or use additives |
The most insidious mistake - incorrect flywheel assembly. On page 6 of the brochure there is a diagram that indicates that the mark on the flywheel should look up at TDC of the 1st cylinder. If you mix it up, the engine will vibrate at idle and the starter will jam.
Always refer to the brochure when assembling the crank mechanism. Even if you “remember everything”, in My Summer Car There are occasional bugs that may cause parts to not fall into place the first time.
Where to download the brochure in high quality
The original in-game brochure is low resolution, making small text (such as jet numbers or torque values) difficult to read. Here are verified sources for downloading:
- 🌍 Official website of the game: There is a PDF version (12 MB, 300 dpi) in the "Downloads" section.
- 📚 My Summer Car Wiki: manual page with interactive diagrams.
- 💾 Steam Community: the guides have modified versions with Russian notes (look for the tag "Russian Translation").
For easy reference, print out key pages (6-7, 10-11, 18-19) and hang them above your workbench in your garage. This will save time constantly flipping through PDFs.
How to convert PDF to a convenient format?
Use the service SmallPDFto convert the brochure to JPEG page by page. Then download the images to your phone - it's easier to view right in the garage.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about the mechanic's brochure
🔧 Why is there no generator connection diagram in the brochure?
The generator circuit is on page 19, but it is designated as lataus (charging). Players often confuse it with a relay regulator (jännitesäädin). The main thing is not to connect the generator directly to the battery, otherwise the diode bridge will burn out.
📏 How to use the tightening torque table on page 4?
The table indicates the moments in Nm (newton meters). For example, cylinder head bolts must be tightened in 3 stages: first 30 Nm, then 60 Nm, and finally 90 Nm. Without torque wrench (available from Teimo for 80€) you risk breaking the thread.
⚡ What to do if after assembling according to the brochure the car does not start?
Check:
- Is there a spark at the spark plugs (unscrew the spark plug, apply it to ground and turn it with the starter).
- Is gasoline flowing into the carburetor (disconnect the fuel hose and press the fuel pump bulb).
- Are the high-voltage wires on the coil reversed (order: 1–3–4–2).
If everything is in order, but the engine does not catch, check the compression (should be at least 8 atm).
🔍 Where in the brochure are the sizes of the pads indicated?
The dimensions of the gaskets are given in the table on page 23 Tiivisteet (gaskets). For example:
- Cylinder head gasket: thickness
1.5 mm. - Pan gasket:
3 mm(with cork covering).
If the gasket is thinner or thicker, the thermal gap will be disrupted, which will lead to overheating.
🛠️ Can I use the brochure for tuning?
Yes, but with reservations. For example:
- To install a turbocharger (mod Turbo Satsuma) you need to replace the carburetor jets with
140/190and reconfigure the ignition (angle8°). - When replacing the engine with D16 (mod) The wiring diagrams from the brochure will not work - you need a separate manual.