Manufacturing a stationary furnace for the cauldron from old car discs begins with an accurate calculation of the height of the structure to ensure proper traction and uniform heating of the boiler. Optimal altitude The heating chamber is determined by the diameter of the disks used, since the efficiency of firewood combustion and the speed of boiling water directly depends on this parameter. If you make the furnace too low, the fuel will not burn completely, creating smoke, and too high a chamber will require an excess amount of firewood to achieve the desired temperature of the boiler walls.
Before starting the work, you need to make sure that the ones you choose are steel-stamped They do not have deep corrosion or cracks that can deform when heated. The best fit products from cars with a diameter of R13-R15, as their geometry is ideally correlated with standard volumes of casings from 12 to 22 liters. It is important to immediately decide on the type of fuel, since coal requires a different design of bellows than for dry firewood or gas burners.
In the assembly process, the key will be to create a stable base that will withstand the weight of a full boiler with water and meat, as well as the own weight of the metal structure. load-bearing capacity The feet of the furnace should be designed with a margin to avoid tipping during cooking when the contents are in a boiling state. A properly assembled unit serves for decades, without requiring complex maintenance, except for periodic cleaning from soda.
Preparation of materials and tools for assembly
To create a quality product, you will need to find two identical car discs, which will become the basis of the furnace and smokestack. The metal from which they are made has sufficient heat resistance and thickness to withstand cyclic heating and cooling without losing shape. Additionally, you need to prepare segments of the profile pipe for the legs, a metal strip for strengthening the structure and sheet metal 3-4 mm thick for the bottom of the furnace and door.
The bulk of the work will have to be done using a welding machine, so the presence of welding Skills in working with an electrode or semi-automatic machine are a prerequisite. Also, you will need a corner grinding machine with metal discs for cutting and cleaning seams, a drill with metal drills and a set of metalworking tools. Do not forget about personal protective equipment, as working with metal involves the risk of injuries and sparks.
- ๐ ๏ธ The two R13-R15 wheels are in good condition.
- ๐ ๏ธ Profile pipe 40x40 mm or corner for the wall.
- ๐ ๏ธ Sheet metal 3-5 mm for bottom and flap.
- ๐ ๏ธ Metal handle and hinges for the furnace door.
- ๐ ๏ธ Printing and heat-resistant paint for finishing.
When choosing discs, pay attention to their central opening: if you plan to install inside gas-burnerThe diameter should correspond to its dimensions, or you will need to cut the bottom. For a wood-burning version, the central hole will serve as a blower, providing air flow to the fireplace. Think in advance whether the furnace will be stationary or mobile, as the choice of metal thickness for the legs depends on this.
Technical requirements and design drawings
Before cutting metal, you need to make at least an approximate drawing future furnace, indicating the main dimensions of height, width and diameter of the seat under the casing. The standard height of the furnace chamber is usually 35-45 cm, which allows you to lay logs up to 30 cm long and ensure good heat exchange. The diameter of the upper ring should be less than the diameter of the equator of the cauldron, so that the boiler is immersed in the furnace by about one-third or half of its volume.
The most important element of efficiency is the organization of traction, which depends on the height of the smokestack and the size of the inlets for air. If you do blow-in Too big, firewood will burn too quickly, not having time to give heat to the walls, and if too small - the fire will constantly go out. The optimal solution is the presence of an adjustable flap, which allows you to control the intensity of combustion depending on weather conditions and the required temperature.
โ ๏ธ Note: When designing, keep in mind that the cauldron should be installed tightly, but not tightly, so that smoke can escape through the gaps, rather than going into the room or into the face of the cook.
For the gas version of the design, the requirements for the internal volume change: here it is not the length of the log, but the free space around the flame for the circulation of gases. Heat transfer in gas furnaces higher, but requires more accurate adjustment of the position of the nozzles relative to the bottom of the boiler. Often in such models make a removable bottom or use special flame dissecters for uniform heating.
Step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of a furnace
The assembly process begins with the preparation of the discs: it is necessary to remove all unnecessary elements, such as tire residues, balancing loaders and decorative caps. If the discs have strong rust, they should be cleaned to metal to ensure a quality welded connection. The upper disc, which will serve as a seat, is often deprived of the bottom, leaving only the rim and spokes, or cut a hole of the desired diameter in the center.
Connection of two discs between each other is carried out together or with a small overlap, for which the edges are carefully cleaned and boiled with a continuous seam in a circle. The tightness of the furnace is a critical parameter, since heat and smoke will go through the cracks, reducing the temperature. Efficiency of the device. At the junction, you can lay a metal strip 3-5 cm wide, which will simultaneously strengthen the structure and close possible gaps.
โ๏ธ Check-list of welding works
Next, it is necessary to make and weld the bottom of the furnace chamber, if it is not provided by the design of the lower disc. In the bottom, a hole for ash and primary air is cut, and stops are attached for installing a spike bar. Pillars can be made from thick reinforcements welded parallel to each other, or use a ready-made cast iron grille of a suitable size.
To load fuel in the side of the furnace is cut a rectangular hole, to which welded frame from the corner. This frame is hung on the hinges. metal-door with a valve to adjust the air supply. The door should be closed tightly, but without distortion, and have a comfortable handle that will not heat up to a burning temperature during operation.
| Parameter | Recommended value | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Fireplace height | 350-450 mm | Depends on the length of the logs. |
| Diameter of the Kazan | It's consistent with volume. | 12l - 30cm, 22l - 38cm |
| Metal thickness | 3-5 mm | For the durability of the structure |
| Leg height | 600-800 mm | Convenient for standing cooking |
Manufacture of the wall and installation of legs
Stability of the furnace is the key to safety, so the manufacture of the wall should be paid special attention, using a profile pipe with a cross section of at least 40x40 mm. The legs should be placed wide enough that the center of gravity of the full casing is inside the perimeter of the support, eliminating the risk of overturning. Often the legs are made adjustable in height or welded to them pentacles for installation on soft ground.
Mounting the furnace to the wall can be carried out in different ways: welding directly to the pipes, through an intermediate platform of sheet metal or using bolt connections. The latter option allows you to remove the furnace for cleaning or transportation, if necessary, which makes the design more complex. universal. When welding, it is important to observe geometry so that the furnace does not stagger and stands strictly vertical.
- ๐ Cut off four segments of the pipe 70-80 cm long.
- ๐ Weld the upper frame according to the size of the disc diameter.
- ๐ Weld the legs at an angle or vertically with slants.
- ๐ Set crossbars for the rigidity of the structure at the bottom.
For the convenience of moving the heavy structure along the site to the bottom of the legs, you can weld small wheels from garden equipment or carts. However, it is worth remembering that in working condition, with a full boiler, the stove becomes very heavy, and it should be rolled with caution. Mobility This is especially important if you plan to use the stove in different areas of the yard or take it with you to outdoor events.
โ ๏ธ Warning: When installing on wooden flooring or grass, be sure to use a metal sheet under the legs so that sparks from the underflated do not cause a fire.
Modernization: gas burner and wood-burning regime
Many craftsmen strive to make the oven universal, providing the possibility of using both firewood and gas, which requires a special design of the inner chamber. For this purpose, a removable platform or brackets are installed inside the furnace on which it is put. gas-burnerIt is easily removed for wood. This flexibility allows you not to depend on the presence of dry firewood and to kindle the fire instantly in any weather.
When installing gas equipment, it is necessary to ensure free access of air to the burner and free exit of combustion products, for which additional holes are drilled in the side walls. gas pipeline It should be connected through a gearbox and reliable hoses that withstand high temperature, with mandatory checking of all connections for leakage with soap solution. Safety in this case is more important than convenience, so you can not save on fittings and cranes.
If you are betting on firewood, then you should think about a system of secondary afterburning of gases, which will significantly increase the temperature and reduce the amount of smoke. To do this, in the upper part of the furnace, just below the level of the installation of the casing, holes are made through which air is supplied to burn the released gases. This decision makes the stove more eco-friendly It is also economical, allowing less fuel to be used to achieve the same result.
Finishing and corrosion protection
After completion of all welding work and checking the structure for stability, it is necessary to clean all seams and cover the metal with protective compositions. Ordinary paint will burn at the first use, so special heat-resistant enamel can be used for the external parts of the furnace that do not come into contact with an open flame. The inner part of the furnace does not need to be painted - it will burn and temper during the first heat, forming a natural protective layer.
To give the product an aesthetic appearance, you can use the technique of roaring or simply coat metal. graphite-lubricant And warm it up, which will create a matte black hue. The legs and external elements of the wall should be primed with anticorrosive soil, as they will constantly come into contact with moist soil and grass. Regular inspection and coloring chips will prolong the life of your homemade for many years.
The first grout should be carried out out outdoors with a load of a small amount of fuel to burn out the remnants of oil, paint and welding fluxes. In the process of this process-burn You may have an unpleasant smell and smoke, so be near the oven at this time you need to be careful. After cooling, check if there are new cracks in the seams, and if necessary, brew them.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use cast discs instead of stamped ones?
It is not recommended to use cast discs, since when heated, the aluminum from which they are made loses strength and can melt or deform. Stamped steel discs are ideal for these purposes due to their heat resistance.
What thickness of metal is needed for the bottom of the furnace?
For the bottom of the furnace chamber, it is best to use sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4-5 mm, so that the bottom does not burn quickly from the heat of coals. The thin metal is rapidly deformed and will require replacement after several seasons of active use.
Do I need to make a chimney for such a stove?
For a street stove under the Kazan high chimney is not required, since the thrust is provided by the height of the furnace itself. However, a short tube (10-20 cm) on top will help to divert smoke away from the cook in the side wind.
How often should you clean such a stove?
Cleaning from ash is carried out after each use, and major cleaning from soot and soot - as needed, usually 1-2 times a season. Metal brush and scraper perfectly cope with the removal of deposits.