Every car owner is faced with a situation when the car door stops being fixed in intermediate positions or begins to creak unpleasantly when opening. Often the cause of such inconveniences is door-holder, which wears out over time. This small but critical element ensures the safety of landing and disembarkation, preventing the slam from gust of wind and fixing it in the right position.
Ignoring the first signs of malfunction can lead to more serious consequences, such as deformation of hinges or damage to the paint coating of the body. In this article, we will discuss in detail the mechanism, the causes of breakdowns and methods of their elimination.
Restoring the operability of the retainer often does not require expensive equipment and can be performed in garage conditions. The main thing is to understand the principle of operation of the unit and know what materials to use for lubrication.
Device and operation principle of the door locker
Constructively door check arm is a hinge-lever mechanism consisting of two main parts: a movable lever fixed to the door, and a reciprocating part with slots, which is attached to the body rack or integrated into the hinge. When opening the door, the lever moves inside the body, and a spring-loaded ball or roller falls into special notches, providing fixation.
There are several types of designs, the most common of which is the telescopic variant. It is used in plastic-sleeved Or a roller bearing that slides down a guide. It is this node that experiences maximum loads and is subject to rapid wear.
In more modern or premium models of cars, electronically controlled mechanisms or reinforced metal guides can be found. However, the principle of operation remains similar: mechanical friction and position fixation.
⚠️ Attention: When dismantling the mechanism, be careful with springs - they are under tension and can fly out, injuring the eyes or damaging the skin.
Why do plastic bushings break down?
Plastic used in factory bushes is often too soft for harsh climatic conditions. At low temperatures, it sank and cracked, and at high temperatures - "floats", increasing the gaps. Replacing products made of caprolone or fluoroplastic solves this problem forever, since these materials have high wear resistance and are not afraid of temperature changes.
The main signs of wear and diagnosis
Understand that door-lock requires intervention, can be on a number of characteristic signs. The first “bell” usually becomes the appearance of extraneous sounds. Screaming, grinding or thud knocking when opening and closing indicates a lack of lubrication or the production of rubbing surfaces.
If the car door began to “fall” under its own weight and is not held in an intermediate position, this is a direct sign of critical wear of the fixing element. In normal condition, the flap should be clearly fixed in three positions: closed, semi-open and fully open.
You should also pay attention to the backlash. Take the edge of the open door and swing it up and down. If there is a noticeable beat in the area of the loops, and the limiter itself walks too freely, then the gaps between the details of the mechanism exceeded the permissible norms.
- 🔊 Screaming and gnashing Lack of lubrication or getting dirt into the mechanism.
- 🚪 The door's not holding. - the edges on the plastic sleeve are slipped or the spring weakened.
- 📉 Luft and beat - deformation of the lever or wear of the seats.
- 💧 Corrosion - rust on metal elements, blocking the course.
Selection of materials for repair and replacement
For the qualitative restoration of the functionality of the node, it is necessary to choose the right components. Factory OEM-sleeves They are often made from ordinary polyethylene, which quickly fails. Experienced auto mechanics recommend using more resistant materials such as caprolone (polyamide) or fluoroplasty.
Particular attention should be paid to lubrication. The use of ordinary litol or solidol in this case is ineffective, since these lubricants are quickly washed out and thicken in the cold. For door check mechanism Lubricants based on molybdenum disulfide or special Teflon sprays are ideal.
If the mechanism has a non-collectible design or is badly damaged, the only way out is to completely replace the assembly. When buying a new limiter, it is important to check compatibility by catalog number, since even one model of the car in different years of release could be put different modifications.
| Hustle material | Wear resistance | Operating temperature | Term of service |
|---|---|---|---|
| Factory plastic | Low. | -20...+60°C | 3-5 years |
| caprol | Tall. | -40...+90°C | 10 years. |
| fluoroplasty | Medium | -200...+200°C | 7-8 years |
| Brass/Bronze | Very high. | -50...+100°C | 15+ years |
The use of bushings made of caprolone instead of regular plastic increases the resource of the mechanism by 3-4 times and completely eliminates creaks.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing bushings
The replacement process begins with the removal of the door card if access to the limiter is blocked by the skin. However, many cars can reach the mechanism without removing the skin, simply opening the door to the maximum angle. The first thing you need to fix the door in the open position so that it does not slam during the work.
Next, you should remove the lock pin or twist the bolt of the fixing of the limiter to the body. Be prepared for the fact that the bolt can boil – use penetrating lubricant WD-40 beforehand. After removing the mechanism, inspect it for cracks.
The most important step is to replace the sleeve. Old plastic is often crumbled, so it needs to be carefully removed. a new sleeve before installation is recommended to lubricate and press, slightly heated with a hairdryer for better shrinkage, if the material allows.
☑️ Checklist for replacement sleeve
When assembly, do not tighten the fastening bolts "to the point" immediately. First cash them, check the door, and only then make the final puff. This will help avoid distortions that can lead to a spell again.
Elimination of backlash and adjustment of the mechanism
Sometimes replacing the sleeve does not give the desired effect, and the backlash is maintained. In such cases, adjustment of the response part or the lever itself is required. If the design allows, you can bend the lever a little to increase the tension of the spring, but you need to do this extremely carefully.
A frequent cause of backlash is the development at the place of attachment of the limiter to the body. The hole could become an oval. To eliminate this defect, you can use repair sleeves of larger diameter or digest the mounting, which will require more serious intervention.
It is also worth checking the condition of the door hinges. Often drivers sin on the limiter, when the problem lies in the sank loops. If the backlash is felt in the area of the hinges when rocking the door, then you need to adjust them, not the fixer itself.
⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to eliminate backlash by placing washers under the mounting bolts, unless this is provided by the design. This can lead to a jamming of the door on the move.
Prevention and care of door mechanisms
So door-holder It has been in service for a long time and it is necessary to carry out regular preventive maintenance. It is enough once a year, preferably before the winter season, to lubricate the mechanism. This will wash away the accumulated dirt and create a protective film.
Use lubricants that do not thicken in the cold. A great choice will be sprays with Teflon or silicone. They penetrate into all hard-to-reach places and do not collect dust on themselves, like thick, consistent lubricants.
Keep the grooves clean in the body rack. Mud, sand and reagents, getting inside the mechanism, work like an abrasive, quickly destroying plastic and metal. Regular washing of the zone of hinges and limiters with a jet of water under pressure will help to avoid accelerated wear.
After washing the car, always purify with compressed air or thoroughly wipe the area of door hinges and limiters so that the water does not remain inside the mechanism and does not freeze in winter.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I remove the door limiter without removing it?
Yes, if the design allows access to the mechanism. You can use a lubricant with a long spray tube. However, for high-quality cleaning and replacement of the sleeve, removal will still be required.
What is the best way to remove the door limiters in winter?
The best suitable lubricants on a synthetic basis with a freezing point below -40 ° C, for example, lithium disulfide lubricants or Teflon sprays.
Why does the door shut itself on the move?
This is a sign that the fixator has completely stopped holding. Most likely, the plastic sleeve crumbled or the spring burst. Operating a car with such a malfunction is dangerous.
How much does it cost to replace the limiter in the service?
The cost of the work varies with the difficulty of access. On average, the replacement takes 30-60 minutes. The price is made up of the cost of the spare part and the normal hours of service.
Can I make a sleeve by myself?
Yes, if you have access to a lathe and a kaprolon workpiece. It is often cheaper and more reliable than buying an original plastic part.