Organizing a parking space in a suburban area is a matter of paramount importance for every car owner. Open parking exposes the vehicle to the aggressive effects of precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and hail, which over time leads to fading of the paintwork and corrosion of the body. The most rational and economical solution in this situation is lean-to carport for 2 cars, which provides reliable protection and at the same time occupies a minimum of usable space.

The design with one slope is not chosen by chance: it is easier to install, requires less materials and has excellent wind resistance when the angle of inclination is correctly calculated. Unlike complex gable systems, there is no ridge, which simplifies the sealing of the roof and reduces the risk of leaks. Smartly designed frame garage The open type will allow you to place two cars side by side, leaving enough space for the doors to open freely and people to move around.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to clearly determine the dimensions of the future structure. The standard width of a parking space is 2.5–3 meters, so for two cars the total width of the structure should be at least 6 meters, and taking into account overhangs and supports - up to 7 meters. The depth of the canopy usually varies from 5 to 6 meters, so that cars can be completely placed under the roof, even with an open trunk or hood.

Selection of materials for frame and roof

The durability of the entire structure directly depends on the quality of the materials used. For racks, a square-section profile pipe is most often used, since it has a high load-bearing capacity and is easy to weld. The optimal choice for the main supports would be a pipe with a cross-section of 100Γ—100 mm or 120Γ—120 mm, and for purlins and trusses you can use a profile of 60Γ—60 mm or 80Γ—80 mm. The metal frame requires mandatory anti-corrosion treatment with primer and enamel.

An alternative to metal is wood, which gives the site a more aesthetic and natural look. However wooden canopy requires careful preparation: the timber must be treated with antiseptics against rotting and fire-retardant compounds. For racks, timber with a cross-section of at least 150Γ—150 mm is used, and for the rafter system - 100Γ—150 mm. Despite its beauty, wood is less durable in high humidity conditions without constant maintenance.

Polycarbonate or profiled sheets are ideal as a roofing covering for a single-pitch structure. Polycarbonate allows light to pass through, creating partial shade, which prevents the car interior from overheating in summer. Corrugated sheeting, in turn, provides complete protection from the sun and is characterized by high mechanical strength. The choice depends on personal preferences and the budget allocated for construction.

πŸ“Š What material for the frame will you choose?
Profile pipe (metal)
Wooden beam
Combined option
Brick columns

⚠️ Attention: When choosing polycarbonate for roofing, make sure that it has a UV protective coating. Ordinary material without protection will quickly become cloudy and brittle when exposed to the sun, losing its properties within 2-3 years.

Design and sizing

Design begins with determining the exact dimensions of the site. To comfortably accommodate two class C or D cars, the minimum width of usable space should be 5.5–6 meters. However, to prevent rainwater from flowing under the canopy during an oblique downpour, the roof overhangs should protrude beyond the perimeter of the parking lot by at least 0.5–0.8 meters on each side. Thus, the total width of the structure along the outer edge of the racks will be about 7 meters.

The slope angle is a critical parameter that affects the roof's ability to withstand snow loads and effectively drain water. For polycarbonate sheds, the minimum angle is 5–10 degrees, but in regions with heavy snowfall it is recommended to increase the angle to 20–30 degrees. A roof that is too low will accumulate snow, creating dangerous pressure on the load-bearing beams, and an excessively steep one will increase the windage of the structure.

The height of the front and rear facades is calculated based on the angle of inclination and the length of the slope. Typically, the height difference between the front and rear walls is from 40 to 70 cm for every 4–5 meters of length. This allows water to flow naturally without the need for a complex gutter system, although installing a drain along the bottom edge of the slope is still desirable to maintain a tidy appearance of the site.

Necessary tools and site preparation

Construction begins with the preparation of the foundation, which will bear the weight of the structure and vehicles. The most reliable option is a monolithic concrete slab 10–15 cm thick with mesh reinforcement. An alternative is to lay paving slabs or use ready-made road slabs, which is faster, but requires perfectly level ground. Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to remove the top fertile layer of soil and make a cushion of sand and crushed stone.

To perform the work, you will need a standard set of tools, the presence of which is mandatory to comply with the installation technology. The lack of special tools can lead to disruption of the geometry of the frame and a decrease in the strength of the joints.

  • πŸ› οΈ Welding machine and electrodes (for a metal frame) or a screwdriver with bits (for wood).
  • πŸ“ Construction level, tape measure, square and lace for marking.
  • 🚜 Concrete mixer (if you plan to fill the foundation with your own hands).
  • πŸ”¨ Grinder with discs for metal and wood for cutting materials.

Marking the territory is done using pegs and rope. It is important to strictly observe right angles, checking the diagonals of the rectangle - they must be equal. The installation points of the support pillars are clearly marked, taking into account that the foundation pits should be wider than the cross section of the pillar for ease of concreting.

Installation of the foundation and installation of supports

The foundation for a canopy can be point or strip. For a structure for two cars, a columnar foundation is most often chosen, since it is less material-intensive. Under each support post, a hole is drilled or dug to a depth below the freezing point of the soil (usually 80–120 cm). Sand is poured into the bottom, a reinforcement frame is installed, and concrete is poured.

Installing racks is the most critical stage, requiring constant checking of the vertical. Metal pipes or wooden beams are immersed in concrete solution or welded to pre-concrete embedded parts. It is important to ensure the same height of all supports, taking into account the future slope. To do this, use a laser level or a hydraulic level.

Support type Diameter/Section Burying depth Installation step
Metal pipe 100Γ—100 mm 100–120 cm 3–4 meters
Wooden beam 150Γ—150 mm 100–120 cm 2–3 meters
Brick pillar 2Γ—2 bricks 80–100 cm According to the project

After the concrete has hardened (usually 5–7 days), you can begin tying. A horizontal beam is welded or attached to the upper ends of the racks, which will connect the structure into a single whole. It is on this beam that the rafter system will rest. All welds are cleaned of slag and carefully painted.

⚠️ Attention: When installing wooden poles, the part that goes into the ground must be treated with bitumen mastic or wrapped with roofing material. This will prevent the wood from rotting at the point of contact with wet concrete and soil.

Assembling the rafter system and sheathing

The rafter system of a lean-to canopy is simple: it consists of a series of parallel beams laid at a certain pitch and resting on the front and rear walls. The pitch of the rafters depends on the type of roofing material: for corrugated sheeting it can be 1–1.5 meters, and for polycarbonate it can be 0.7–1 meter. The beams are laid at an angle, providing the required slope of the slope.

To strengthen the structure, diagonal braces or triangular trusses are often installed between the supports and rafters. This is especially true for spans more than 4 meters wide, where the deflection of beams under snow load can be critical. Profile pipe trusses allow you to cover long distances without installing additional intermediate supports, which is convenient for the passage of equipment.

The sheathing is mounted on top of the rafters. If polycarbonate is used, the sheathing pitch must correspond to the width of the sheet or be calculated so that the joint of the sheets falls on the axis of the profile. For corrugated sheeting, the sheathing may be more sparse. All frame elements must lie in the same plane so that the roofing material lies evenly, without waves or gaps.

Fastening the roof covering

Installation of the roof begins from the bottom row if corrugated sheeting is used, or from one of the edges for polycarbonate. The sheets are laid with an overlap in one or two waves (for metal) or end-to-end using a special connecting profile (for plastic). Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws with a rubber EPDM gasket, which seals the puncture site.

When working with polycarbonate, it is important not to overtighten the screws. Excessive force will lead to deformation of the sheet and destruction of the cells, which will reduce the thermal insulation properties and strength. It is also necessary to leave micro-gaps at the junctions with walls or other structures for thermal expansion of the material, which can reach 2–3 mm per linear meter.

The final stage is the installation of the end strips and drainage system. The drain will protect the area under the canopy from the formation of puddles and soil erosion. The gutter is attached to the lower edge of the slope, and the water is discharged through a storm drain or into a drainage well located outside the parking area.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

What is the minimum slope required for a polycarbonate canopy?

The minimum recommended slope for cellular polycarbonate is 5–10 degrees (approximately 10–20 cm of height difference per 1 meter of length). Smaller angle of water stagnation and dust accumulation, which reduces light transmission and aesthetic appearance.

Is it necessary to make a separate foundation for the canopy if there is a blind area?

Yes, you cannot make supports directly on the blind area. The blind area is a thin concrete strip that is not designed for point loads from the weight of the roof and snow. The supports must stand on their own foundation, buried below the freezing level, regardless of the presence of a blind area around the house.

What is better to cover a canopy: polycarbonate or corrugated sheeting?

Polycarbonate creates a light but hot β€œgreenhouse” underneath, which can be uncomfortable in the summer, but it is more beautiful and lighter. Corrugated sheeting provides complete shade and better protection from hail, but underneath it is darker and noisier when it rains. The choice depends on priorities: light or complete sun protection.

How do I calculate the snow load for my region?

Snow load is determined using SNiP maps (SP 20.13330). For central Russia this is usually 180 kg/sq.m, for the northern regions - up to 320 kg/sq.m. When calculating the cross-section of pipes or beams, it is necessary to multiply the roof projection area by the standard value of the snow load for your area.