How to properly treat the underbody of a car with cannon lard: a complete guide

Cannon lard is one of the most time-tested means for protecting a car body from corrosion. Despite the emergence of modern anti-corrosion compounds, this material remains popular among car owners due to its reliability, low price and ease of use. However, treating the bottom with gun lard requires adherence to technology: improper application can not only reduce the effectiveness of protection, but also worsen the condition of the metal.

In this article we will look at why cannon lard is still relevant, how to properly prepare a car for processing, what tools you will need, and what mistakes beginners most often make. We will pay special attention to the nuances of working with different types of bodies (for example, galvanized or with factory anti-corrosion treatment) and compare cannon lard with alternative means - from Movilya to liquid fender liners.

If you plan to carry out the procedure yourself, please note: the result depends not only on the quality of the material, but also on the thoroughness of surface preparation. Even the most expensive gun lard will not save you from rust if traces of dirt, oil or old anticorrosive remain on the bottom.

What is gun lard and why is it effective against corrosion?

Gun lard is a thick preservative lubricant based on petroleum oils with the addition of thickeners (for example, ceresin or paraffin) and anti-corrosion additives. It was originally developed to protect artillery pieces from rust in high humidity environments, but later became widely used in the automotive industry.

Main advantages of the material:

• 🔹 Long-term protection — forms a dense film that is not washed off with water and is not destroyed by reagents.
• 🔹 Low price - cheaper than most specialized anticorrosion agents (for example, Tectyl or Dinitrol).
• 🔹 Versatility - Suitable for processing the underbody, wheel arches, sills and hidden cavities.
• 🔹 Easy to apply — does not require professional equipment (you can use a brush or spray).

However, cannon lard also has disadvantages. For example, it does not dry completely, but remains sticky, attracting dust and dirt. This can lead to the formation of an abrasive layer that will damage the paintwork over time. In addition, lard thickens at low temperatures, making it difficult to apply in winter.

The composition of cannon fat is regulated by GOST 19537-83. A quality product must contain at least 90% petroleum oils and no more than 10% thickeners. When purchasing, pay attention to the labeling: for example, PSG-150 (cannon fat is thick) or PSS-80 (cannon fat is average). Optimal use for cars PSS-80 - it is less thick and penetrates microcracks more easily.

Preparing the car for processing: step by step

The quality of anti-corrosion protection depends 70% on surface preparation. If you skip this step, the gun fat will lie unevenly, and under its layer there will be pockets of rust that will continue to destroy the metal.

First step - bottom washing. Use high pressure cleaners (eg Kärcher K5) with a nozzle for hard-to-reach places. Pay special attention to:

• 🚗 Thresholds and side members - This is where the most dirt accumulates.
• 🚗 Wheel arches — remove old layers of anticorrosion and bitumen mastic.
• 🚗 Welds and drainage holes — they need to be cleaned with wire or compressed air.

After washing, the car must be completely dry. In the warm season, 2-3 hours in the sun is enough; in winter or in damp weather, use a heat gun or blow with compressed air. Metal humidity should not exceed 10% - otherwise the fat will not be able to penetrate the pores.

The next stage is removal of rust and old anticorrosion. To do this use:

• 🔧 Metal brushes or drill attachments (for example, brush).
• 🔧 Sandblasting machine — for deep cleaning (optimal for garage conditions).
• 🔧 Chemical rust converters (for example, Tsinkor-Auto).

⚠️ Attention: Do not use solvents based on acetone or white spirit to clean the bottom - they can damage rubber seals and plastic parts. Suitable for degreasing only gasoline solvent (for example, Nefras-S2-80/120).

After mechanical cleaning, apply to bare metal. primer for rust (for example, Body 930 from NOVOL). This will prevent further oxidation. The primer must dry for 1-2 hours before applying the gun fat.

Washing the bottom with a high pressure washer

Drying (metal humidity ≤10%)

Removing rust mechanically or chemically

Degreasing with gasoline solvent

Applying a rust primer (if necessary) -->

Tools and materials: what you need for work

Treating the bottom with cannon tallow does not require professional equipment, but some tools will make the process much easier. Here is a complete list of everything you need:

Category	Tool/material	Purpose
Basic materials	Cannon fat (PSS-80 or PSG-150)	Anti-corrosion protection of the bottom
Consumables	Solvent gasoline (Nefras-S2-80/120)	Surface degreasing
Cleaning Tools	Brush or sandblasting gun	Removing rust and old anticorrosion
Applying lard	Stiff bristle brush or low pressure spray gun	Uniform distribution of composition
Additionally	Respirator, gloves, safety glasses	Protected against solvent vapors and splashes

To apply cannon fat you can use:

• 🖌️ Brush — suitable for processing small areas (thresholds, welds). Optimal bristles made from natural hair.
• 🔫 Low pressure sprayer — speeds up the process, but requires diluting the lard with a solvent (1:1 ratio).
• 🧤 Gloves with napkin — for processing hidden cavities (for example, the internal surfaces of doors).

If you use a sprayer, please note: the lard must be heated to 40–50°Cso that it becomes less viscous. A water bath or a hair dryer is suitable for this. Do not heat lard with open fire - this may cause a fire!

⚠️ Attention: When working with gun lard in the garage, ensure there is good ventilation. Petroleum oil vapors are toxic and may cause dizziness. Use a respirator with a class filter A1 (for example, 3M 6001).

To process hidden cavities (spars, struts), you will additionally need extension nozzle onto a spray gun or flexible hose. In these areas, lard is applied in a thin layer so as not to clog the drainage holes.

Technology for applying cannon lard: step-by-step instructions

The process of treating the bottom with cannon fat can be divided into three stages: composition preparation, applied layer and drying. Let's look at each of them in detail.

1. Preparing cannon fat

If the lard is too thick (especially in cold weather), it needs to be thinned. To do this:

1. Heat a jar of lard in a water bath until 40–50°C.
2. Add solvent (Nefras-S2-80/120 or white spirit) in a ratio of 1:1 for a spray or 3:1 for a brush.
3. Mix until smooth (you can use a drill with a mixing attachment).

2. Application of the composition

Start treatment from the most vulnerable areas:

• 🔧 Thresholds and lower edges of doors This is where rust most often appears.
• 🔧 Wheel arches — susceptible to gravel impacts and reagents.
• 🔧 Spars and cross members — bear the main load and come into contact with moisture.

Application technology:

• Apply lard from top to bottomto avoid drips.
• For open surfaces use brush or spray, for hidden cavities - extension nozzle.
• The layer thickness should be 0.3–0.5 mm. A layer that is thinner will not provide protection, and a layer that is too thick will collect dirt.

3. Drying and final check

After application, the lard should “set” within 24 hours. At this time:

• Do not operate the vehicle.
• Avoid contact with treated surfaces with water.
• Check for drips - if necessary, remove excess with a cloth soaked in solvent.

After a day, inspect the bottom for missing areas. If necessary, apply a second coat, but not before 12 o'clock after the first one. A two-coat treatment is recommended for vehicles older than 10 years or showing signs of corrosion.

Common processing errors and how to avoid them

Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes that negate all the benefits of anti-corrosion treatment. Here are the most common of them:

1. Applying lard to wet or dirty metal

If you do not dry the bottom after washing, moisture will remain under the layer of grease, which will accelerate corrosion. Cannon fat does not displace water - it only preserves it inside.

2. Using low-quality or expired lard

The shelf life of cannon lard is 3 years from the date of production. An expired product loses its protective properties and may contain sediment that clogs the sprayer. Check the date on the jar and only buy lard from trusted suppliers (for example, Lukoil, Rosneft).

3. Uneven application

Thick layers of fat in some places and thin layers in others lead to:

• 🔴 Accumulation of dirt in thickened areas.
• 🔴 Corrosion on thin or missed areas.

4. Ignoring hidden cavities

Many people process only the visible parts of the bottom, forgetting about the side members, pillars and inner surfaces of the doors. To protect them, use extension nozzle or special aerosols (for example, Movil in cans).

5. Operating the car immediately after treatment

If you start driving earlier than through 24 hours, the lard will not have time to be evenly distributed and may drain from vertical surfaces (for example, from thresholds).

⚠️ Attention: Do not use lard for processing aluminum or magnesium parts (for example, suspension or some body elements Audi or Jaguar). It can cause electrochemical corrosion of these metals. Only specialized wax-based compounds are suitable for them.

Comparison of cannon lard with other anticorrosion agents: which is better

Gun lard is not the only means of protecting the bottom. There are alternatives on the market with different properties and prices. Let's look at the pros and cons of each option:

Means	Benefits	Disadvantages	Protection period
Cannon fat	Low price, high penetration, versatility	Sticky, attracts dirt, difficult to apply in cold weather	2–3 years
Movil	Easy to apply (aerosol), contains corrosion inhibitors	Less resistant to mechanical damage, requires frequent updating	1–2 years
Tectyl (bitumen mastic)	High impact resistance, non-stick, suitable for arches	Expensive, difficult to apply without equipment, cracks over time	3–5 years
Liquid fenders (Noxudol, Dinitrol)	Penetrate into hidden cavities and form an elastic film	High price, requires professional application	4–6 years
Wax compounds (Sonax)	Non-stick, easy to renew, suitable for aluminum	Weak protection against mechanical damage, short validity period	6–12 months

The choice of product depends on:

• 📌 Budget — cannon lard is 3–5 times cheaper Tectyl or Dinitrol.
• 📌 Operating conditions - For off-road driving, bitumen mastic is better, for the city - liquid fender liners.
• 📌 Duration of protection — if you need a long-term effect (5+ years), you should consider professional formulations.

Cannon lard is optimal for:

• 🚘 Budget cars (for example, VAZ, Renault Logan).
• 🚘 Cars older than 10 years with initial corrosion.
• 🚘 Self-processing without special equipment.

Is it possible to mix cannon lard with other anticorrosives?

Yes, but with caution. For example, it is often combined with Movilem for processing hidden cavities (lard - on open surfaces, Movil - in side members). However, do not mix it with water-based formulations (such as Noxudol 750) - this will lead to delamination and loss of protective properties.

Car care after treatment: how to prolong the effect

To make cannon lard last longer, follow a few rules:

1. Car wash

For the first time 2 weeks After processing, avoid high-pressure washing - a jet of water may wash away the unhardened layer of lard. In the future:

• 🚿 Use contactless washing or hand washing with a soft sponge.
• 🚿 Avoid harsh shampoos with solvents (e.g. alkali-based auto chemicals).
• 🚿 After washing, dry the thresholds and arches with compressed air.

2. Inspection and updating of protection

Check the condition of the anticorrosive:

• 🔍 Every 6 months — inspect the bottom on a lift or overpass.
• 🔍 After severe mechanical damage (eg gravel impacts).
• 🔍 When rust appears - remove it and apply lard precisely.

3. Car storage

If the car is parked in the garage in winter, treat the lard silicone grease (for example, WD-40 Specialist) - this will prevent it from drying out. Use in a damp garage desiccants (for example, Silica Gel).

4. Operation in winter

Reagents on the roads destroy any anticorrosive agent, but cannon fat can be protected:

• ❄️ Apply an additional layer to thresholds and arches before winter.
• ❄️ After driving on salty roads, wash the bottom with warm water.
• ❄️ In spring, remove the old layer of lard and apply a new one.

⚠️ Attention: If traces of grease remain on the paintwork after treatment, do not use solvents to remove them - they will damage the paint. Apply to the stain instead. vegetable oil, wait 10 minutes and wipe with microfiber.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about treating the bottom with cannon tallow

Is it possible to apply gun lard to a galvanized body?

Yes, but with reservations. The zinc coating itself protects against corrosion, but in areas of chips or scratches (for example, on thresholds), gun fat will be useful. However, do not apply it to solid galvanized panels - this may compromise electrochemical protection. For galvanizing, it is better to use wax compounds (for example, Turtle Wax).

How much gun fat does it take to process one car?

Consumption depends on machine size and layer thickness:

• 🚗 Passenger car (for example, Toyota Corolla) — 1.5–2 l.
• 🚙 Crossover (for example, Nissan Qashqai) — 2–3 l.
• 🚐 SUV (for example, UAZ Patriot) — 3–4 l.

With two-layer processing, consumption increases by 30–40%.

How to remove old gun fat before new treatment?

Old lard must be removed, as it loses its protective properties and accumulates dirt. To do this:

1. Apply to surface solvent (Nefras-S2-80/120 or white spirit).
2. Wait 10–15 minutesuntil the lard softens.
3. Remove it with a plastic spatula or stiff brush.
4. Wash the surface with water and car shampoo.

For hidden cavities use steam generator — hot steam will dissolve the lard, after which it can be blown out with compressed air.

Is it possible to paint over gun fat?

No. Gun lard is incompatible with paints and varnishes - the paint will not adhere to a greasy surface. If you need to paint the treated area:

1. Remove grease with solvent.
2. Degrease the surface.
3. Apply primer (eg Body 960).
4. Paint only after complete drying (after 24–48 hours) apply a new layer of lard.

Is gun lard harmful to rubber seals?

High-quality gun lard (corresponding to GOST 19537-83) does not harm rubber, but cheap fakes may contain aggressive additives. To avoid risk:

• Seal the seals before processing masking tape.
• Use lard from trusted brands (Lukoil, Rosneft).
• After application, remove excess oil from the rubber with a dry cloth.