Designations of Japanese auction sheets: complete decoding and analysis

Buying a car from Japan is always a lottery, the chances of which can be significantly increased if you learn to read between the lines. Unlike the usual advertisements with photographs and emotional descriptions, Japanese auction sheets are a dry, concise document, rich in codes and symbols. It is this document, called auctioneer, is the main source of truthful information about the technical and external condition of the machine.

To an unprepared buyer, this piece of paper may look like an abstract painting with strange numbers, letters and squiggles on it. However, behind each symbol there is a specific fact from the life of the car: whether the door was repainted, whether the windshield was replaced, whether there are dents on the sills or signs of frame repair. Understanding these notation critically important, since photographs often do not convey nuances, and the auction seller is required to indicate all defects in this particular card.

In this article we will analyze in detail the structure of the auction list, the scoring system, graphic designations of external defects and internal interior condition codes. You will learn how to distinguish a perfect car from one that has been restored after an accident and why some symbols should make you refuse to buy, even if the price seems attractive.

Grading system: how the Japanese evaluate the condition of the body

The Japanese car rating system is considered one of the most strict and objective in the world. It is based on an alphanumeric scale, where each rating is assigned by an independent auction expert. Grade (score) consists of the sum of points for the external condition of the body and the internal assessment of the condition of the interior and equipment.

External assessment is indicated by a number and sometimes a letter. The number 5 or 6 indicates excellent condition, close to new, or a new car, respectively. The number 4 means that the car is in good condition, but may have minor scratches or abrasions that do not require major attention. If you see a rating of 3, 3.5 or 3A, this indicates that the body has noticeable defects that require cosmetic repairs or repainting of individual elements.

Scores below 3, such as 2, 1 or R, signal serious problems. A two means there is corrosion, deep dents or poor quality repairs. A unit indicates the need for complete recovery. The letter stands apart R or RA, which is assigned to cars that have been in an accident with replacement or major repairs of load-bearing body elements. Buying such a car is always a risk that requires careful checking.

⚠️ Attention: An "R" rating does not always mean that the car was "total". Sometimes a car with a replaced bumper or fender is marked this way after minor contact. However, it is impossible to check the actual scope of work without defect detection on site, so treat such lots with extreme caution.

The internal rating of the interior is designated by letters from A to D. Category A is assigned to interiors in perfect condition, without odors, stains and scuffs. B - good interior with minimal signs of use. C — dry cleaning or minor repairs are required (cracks in the plastic, scuffs on the steering wheel). D - the interior is in good condition and requires investment.

Graphic body diagram: reading the defect map

The central part of the auction sheet is occupied by a schematic image of the car in a centerfold. This is not just a picture, but an exact map on which the expert marks all the defects found. Each spot, line or letter on the diagram has its own meaning and location. The ability to “read” this diagram allows you to get a complete picture of the geometry and appearance of the machine even before inspecting it.

The marks are divided into several types: scratches, dents, corrosion, repairs and replacements. For example, code W (Wave) indicates waviness in the paint, which is often a sign of poor auto body repairs in the past. Code U (Umi) means a dent, and the number next to it (1, 2, 3) indicates the severity of the defect. Number 1 is a barely noticeable dent, 3 is a deep one that requires straightening.

Special attention should be paid to the markings on the pillars and sills. If you see the code XX or W2/W3 on the B-pillar or side member, this is a direct indication that the body geometry has been compromised and restored. For frame SUVs such as Toyota Land Cruiser or Nissan Patrol, the presence of marks on the frame (Frame) is a critical factor in reducing the price.

• 🚗 Lines and strokes: Short lines indicate scratches (A), long and deep lines indicate cracks or chips (S). The number of lines often corresponds to the depth or length of the damage.
• 🎨 Color codes: Sometimes an expert can use different marker colors to highlight areas of repainting, although this is lost in black and white copies of sheets, so rely on letter codes.
• 🔢 Numbers next to the codes: Always indicate the degree of damage. 1 - minimal, 2 - medium, 3 - strong. For example, U3 is a serious dent, and U1 is a light dent.

It is important to understand that the diagram is drawn up by an expert on the move, in a couple of minutes. He will not polish every inch, so minor scratches may not be indicated, but large defects will definitely be marked. If the diagram is clean, this does not guarantee the absence of small “cobwebs”, but it confirms the absence of serious problems.

Table of basic symbols and their decoding

For ease of perception of information, we present the main symbols that you will find in 90% of auction sheets. Memorizing these codes will save you time and help you quickly filter out unsuitable options.

Symbol	Japanese reading/English.	Meaning	Degree (1-3)
A	Atari	Scratch	1 - light, 3 - deep
U	Umi	Dent	1 - barely noticeable, 3 - deep
W	Wave	Wave (putty)	Indicates paint quality
S	Share	Crack/Chip	Often touches glass or plastic
C	Corrosion	Corrosion (rust)	1 - superficial, 3 - through
XX	-	Replacing an element	Usually placed on fenders, bumpers

The code is worth mentioning separately XX. It is installed if a body element has been replaced with a contract one. This is not always bad: if an original new one was installed instead of a broken wing, it is better than a crookedly repaired old one. However, replacing the hood or doors often indicates frontal or side impacts.

Also found code E (Exchange), which is similar in meaning to replacement, but is more often applied to small parts or in the context of exchange during repairs. Code Rep or Repair indicates that the item has been repaired but not completely replaced.

Technical condition and internal assessment

In addition to appearance, the auction book contains information about the technical condition of the car. This is the section where the most important data for future operation is hidden. The mileage, condition of the engine, gearbox and the presence of additional options are indicated here.

Particular attention is paid to mileage. If the mileage is confirmed by a service book or auction history, a mark is placed Auction or corresponding stamp. If the mileage is not confirmed or there is a suspicion of twisting, the expert puts an asterisk (*) next to the mileage numbers or writes “Unknown”. Buying a car with low mileage is risky, since the actual service life of the components is unknown.

The technical assessment section also includes:

• 🔧 Engine and gearbox: They are assessed by the state of operation, the presence of leaks and extraneous noise. Usually designated by the letters A-D, similar to the salon.
• ❄️ Air conditioning: The presence of the A/C code confirms the functionality of the climate system. The absence of a code or the mark "Junk" means a malfunction.
• 🍺 Smoking: Code Smoke or a picture of a cigarette indicates that there was smoking in the cabin. It is extremely difficult to remove this smell, which is why such lots are often cheaper.

⚠️ Attention: The presence of a “Water Leak” mark (water leakage) or traces of rust in the trunk and under the floor mats may indicate that the car has been in water or has been parked in the open air for a long time with seal problems. This can lead to electrical problems.

For hybrid vehicles such as Toyota Prius or Nissan Note e-POWER, the presence of a hybrid battery status mark is critical. Sometimes experts write "Battery OK" or put a corresponding stamp. The absence of such information requires a mandatory check with a multimeter before purchase.

What does the code "Float" mean?

The code "Float" or the image of a cloud indicates that odors are floating in the cabin. It could be the smell of tobacco, animals, flavorings or, worse, rot. Be careful, as removing such odors requires deep dry cleaning and disassembly of the interior.

Special marks and vehicle history

Japanese auctions keep a thorough history of each lot. At the top or bottom of the sheet there may be additional stamps and marks that tell about the past of the car. This data is often ignored by beginners, but for professionals it is key.

One of the most important marks is Chusajo (customer). This means that the car was purchased by a dealer for a specific customer, but the deal fell through. Such cars are usually in perfect condition, as they have been carefully selected. There is also a note that the car was leased or in a corporate fleet.

If the car has previously been put up for auction and was not sold, a stamp may appear on the sheet Last or an instruction for re-export. This is a signal to the buyer: if the car was not accepted the first time, perhaps the price is high or there is a hidden defect that the first expert did not notice.

In the section Remarks (Notes) The most interesting information is often written in text. There may be oil change dates, availability of winter tires, navigation (which in Japan is often useless outside the country), or export restrictions to certain regions.

Typical mistakes when deciphering auctioneers

Despite the apparent simplicity of the system, beginners often make fatal mistakes when interpreting data. The most common one is ignoring context. The number “4” on the body of an old car made in 1998 and on a new one from 2020 are completely different things. On an older car, a "4" may mean no dents but faded paintwork that will require polishing or repainting.

The second mistake is underestimating the code R. Many people believe that if the car runs and looks normal, then repairs in the past are not important. However, in Japan, the code R is assigned even for replacing the bumper amplifier. But it can also be charged for replacing the spar. It is impossible to understand the difference without a visual inspection or photos of the seams, so the risk of the “designer” is great.

The third mistake is blind faith in the salon's "A" rating. In Japan, "A" often means "clean", but not necessarily "like new". Scuffs on the steering wheel Mazda or Honda 5-7 years old may not be indicated if they are not noticeable. Always request additional photos of the interior when purchasing.

And remember that the auction sheet is just one analysis tool. It provides structure, but does not replace live inspection. The right combination of reading the defect map, analyzing the history and actually assessing the condition will allow you to buy a car that will delight you for many years, and will not become a source of endless expenses.

What does the asterisk (*) next to mileage mean?

An asterisk indicates that the vehicle's mileage is not documented. This may mean that the service book has been lost, or there is a suspicion that the mileage was incorrect by previous owners. Purchasing such a car carries risks regarding the life of the engine and transmission.

Is it possible to buy a car with a body rating of 2?

You can buy it, but you need to be aware of the costs. A rating of 2 indicates corrosion, deep dents, or poor repairs. Restoring such a body to “4” condition can cost from $500 to $2,000 or more, depending on the model and amount of work. Savings on purchases can be completely eaten up by repairs.

How can you tell if your windshield has been replaced?

On the body diagram in the area of the windshield (indicated as Windshield or Front Glass) look for the code Rep (replacement/repair) or S (crack/chip). Also, replacing the glass often means that the mileage on the car has been reset (since the mileage is often printed on new glass in Japan), which is a reason for additional checking.