Auction sheet of a Japanese car: decoding of all symbols and codes

What is an auction sheet and why do you need to know how to read it?

Buying a car from Japanese auctions is one of the most profitable ways to purchase a reliable used car. However, without knowledge auction sheet (auction sheet) you risk receiving a problematic car with hidden defects or inconsistencies. This document is a kind of “passport” of the car at auction, containing all the key information: from technical condition to repair history.

Japanese auctions such as USS Tokyo, AAA, JAA or TAA, use a unified rating system, but with nuances depending on the site. For example, assessment 4.5 at one auction may correspond 5 on the other. Without understanding these subtleties, it is easy to overpay for a car with a low estimate or, conversely, miss out on a good offer.

In this article we will look at all auction sheet designations - from basic parameters to hidden notes that sellers do not always advertise. You will learn to distinguish an honest assessment from veiled problems, understand damage codes and check the car's history before purchasing.

Auction sheet structure: main blocks of information

A typical auction sheet consists of 5-7 key blocks, each of which is responsible for a specific aspect of the car. Let's look at them in order:

• 📝 Basic information: make, model, year of manufacture, VIN, body number, transmission and drive type.
• 🔢 Condition assessment: numerical and letter rating (for example, 4.5B or 3.0R).
• 🔧 Technical Parameters: mileage, engine size, fuel type, power.
• 🚗 Exterior and interior: damage codes, condition of paintwork, interior, electronics.
• 📊 Additional Notes: history of accidents, repairs, replacement of parts, operating features.
• 💰 Financial information: starting price, auction step, commissions.

The most important blocks are: condition assessment and damage notes. This is where pitfalls often hide. For example, assessment 3.5 may seem acceptable, but if there is a note next to it W (water damage), it is better to refuse the purchase.

Decoding condition ratings: what the numbers and letters mean

The grading system at Japanese auctions is based on a combination numbers (general condition) and letters (additional details). The numbers range from 6 (perfect condition) up to 0 (for spare parts), and the letters specify the details. Here is the main table:

Evaluation	State Description	Example of letter marks
6, 6.5	New or almost new car, mileage up to 10,000 km, no defects.	A (accident-free) - without an accident
5, 5.5	Excellent condition, minimal traces of use, mileage up to 30,000 km.	B (minor scratches) - minor scratches
4, 4.5	Good condition, visible signs of use, mileage up to 80,000 km.	R (repaired) - repaired after an accident
3, 3.5	Satisfactory condition, requires cosmetic repairs, mileage up to 150,000 km.	W (water damage) - water damage
2, 1, 0	Poor condition, serious damage, must be scrapped or sold for spare parts.	S (salvage) - recovered after a serious accident

A critical note: letter marks can dramatically change the meaning of the grade. For example, assessment 4.0R means that the car was in an accident and was being restored, and 4.0A - that there was no accident, but there are other defects. Always check the combination of numbers and letters!

⚠️ Attention: At some auctions (for example, USS) assessment 3.5 may be considered acceptable for export, whereas JAA the same rating often means the car requires major repairs. Always check site-specific standards.

Damage codes and hidden problems: what professionals look for

The most dangerous marks on the auction sheet are codes indicating hidden defects, which are not visible in the photo. They can be divided into 3 categories:

• 🚨 Emergency damage:
  • R — repaired (repaired after an accident)
  • S — salvage (restored after a serious accident)
  • X — frame damage (damage to frame/body)
  • Y — replaced parts (replaced parts)
• 🌊 Elemental Damage:
  • W — water damage (flood, flood)
  • F — fire damage (fire)
  • H — hail damage (hail)
• ⚡ Technical problems:
  • E - engine issues
  • T — transmission issues (transmission problems)
  • O — odometer rolled back (mileage rolled up)

The code is especially dangerous O (twisted mileage), as it is difficult to identify without checking the car's history through Japanese databases. For example, the auction may indicate mileage 80,000 km, and the real one is 180,000 km. To avoid being scammed, always ask auction report (auction report) with photos of the odometer.

How to check real mileage?

To check your mileage, use services like CarVertical or JEVIC (Japanese database). They show the mileage history by maintenance dates. Also pay attention to the condition of the steering wheel, pedals and seats - with a mileage of 80,000 km, they should be in perfect condition if the car was used carefully.

Another alarming signal - marking RA (repaired accident). It means that the car has been in an accident, but has been restored to a condition close to the original. However, even high-quality repairs can hide problems with body geometry or electronics. Such a car requires mandatory diagnostics on a lift.

Examples of real auction sheets: analysis of typical cases

Let's look at some real examples of auction sheets with different ratings and markings so that you can quickly analyze the information.

Example 1: Toyota Crown 2018 with assessment 4.5B

• 📌 Rating: 4.5 — good condition, mileage 65,000 km.
• 📌 Note: B — minor scratches on the body.
• 📌Additionally: there are no notes about accidents or repairs.
• 📌 Conclusion: A suitable option for purchase, but the paintwork needs to be checked for hidden corrosion.

Example 2: Nissan Skyline R34 2002 with assessment 3.0RA

• 📌 Rating: 3.0 — satisfactory condition, mileage 120,000 km.
• 📌 Note: RA - restored after an accident.
• 📌Additionally: the history indicates repair of the front part of the body.
• 📌 Conclusion: Risky purchase. It is necessary to check the geometry of the body and the condition of the suspension.

Example 3: Honda Fit 2015 with assessment 5.0W

• 📌 Rating: 5.0 — excellent condition, mileage 25,000 km.
• 📌 Note: W - water damage.
• 📌 Additionally: there may be traces of mold or corrosion of electronics in the interior.
• 📌 Conclusion: It is better to refuse the purchase — the consequences of flooding may take months to appear.

How to Avoid Being Scammed: 5 Signs of a Fake Auction List

Unfortunately, scammers sometimes falsify auction listings in order to sell a problem vehicle. Here 5 key signs of a fake:

1. VIN mismatch: The number on the sheet does not match the one stamped on the body or in the documents.
2. Suspiciously high rating: For example, 5.5 for a 2005 car with 200,000 km mileage.
3. No accident notes with visible signs of repair in the photo.
4. Incorrect dates: For example, the date of the last maintenance is later than the auction date.
5. Blurred or edited photos in the report.

If you notice any of these signs, ask for original documents or refuse the deal. It's also helpful to check listings through official auction databases - many of them (e.g. USS or JAA) provide online verification by lot number.

⚠️ Attention: At some auctions (for example, TAA) sellers may indicate mileage in miles rather than kilometers. Always check the units of measurement! For example, 50 000 mi = 80,467 km.

Where and how to check the auction list before purchasing

Before buying a car from a Japanese auction necessarily Check the auction listing through several sources:

• 🔍 Official auction databases:
  • USS Tokyo — uss.co.jp
  • JAA — jaa.or.jp
  • AAA — aaa.or.jp
• 📊 History checking services:
  • CarVertical - to check mileage and accidents.
  • JEVIC — Japanese database with maintenance history.
  • Auction Export — aggregator of auction sheets.
• 📸 Additional photos and videos: Ask the seller for photos:
  • Odometer (mileage).
  • VIN numbers on the body.
  • Engine and engine compartment.
  • The lower part of the body (for corrosion).

If you buy a car through an intermediary (for example, through JDM Expo or Japanese Car Trade), require full package of documents, including:

• Original auction sheet (not a screenshot!).
• Export certificate (Export Certificate).
• Auction purchase and sale agreement.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about auction listings for Japanese cars

What should I do if there are no notes about an accident on the auction sheet, but repairs are visible in the photo?

This is a common situation. Possible reasons:

• The repairs were carried out before the sale at auction and did not go down in history.
• The seller hid the information (in which case the sheet may be fake).
• The damage was minor and was not included in the report.

Solution: Request additional photos of repaired areas and check the vehicle via JEVIC or CarVertical.

Can the assessment be trusted? 6.0 on a car older than 5 years?

Evaluation 6.0 on a car older than 5 years - this is extremely suspicious. Even with ideal care, natural wear and tear will not allow it to maintain this condition. Most likely:

• The mileage is twisted.
• The car has undergone a major overhaul with the replacement of most parts.
• This is a fake sheet.

Check the car's history and request an independent examination.

What does the mark mean? Y on the auction list?

Mark Y means that there were parts replaced. This can be either a planned replacement (for example, brake pads) or restoration after an accident. Check with the seller exactly which parts were changed and for what reason. If these are body parts (for example, a fender or bumper), the car requires additional inspection.

How to decipher the code 3.5R-W?

This assessment consists of three parts:

• 3.5 - satisfactory condition.
• R — the car was being restored after an accident.
• W — there is water damage (flooding, flooding).

Conclusion: The car is in poor condition, the purchase is extremely risky. Refuse or carefully check the electrical and body parts for corrosion.

Is it possible to buy a car with an appraisal? 2.0 and repair it?

Technically yes, but economically it is rarely justified. Evaluation 2.0 means that the car:

• Has serious damage to the body or frame.
• Requires major engine or transmission overhaul.
• Can only be restored for sale for parts.

The cost of repairs often exceeds the market price of the car. The exception is rare or collectible models (for example, Nissan Skyline GT-R or Toyota Supra) where restoration may be warranted.