Bayonet from Simonov self-loading carbine (SKS) - this is not just an element of a historical weapon, but an excellent preparation for creating a full-fledged handmade knife. Its high carbon steel 50HGFA (or similar 65G in later modifications) after proper heat treatment, it surpasses many modern stainless alloys in hardness. However, before you take up the grinder, it is worth understanding three key aspects: technical feasibility, legal restrictions and practicality such a project.

Many self-taught craftsmen start with the idea “what if we turn a bayonet into a hunting knife?”, but are faced with unexpected difficulties: from uneven hardening of the factory blade (hardness 48-52 HRC versus optimal 56-58 HRC for knives) before problems with alignment after shortening the blade. In this article we will look at step by step process taking into account typical errors, and also clarify won't you break the law, remaking military property. Spoiler: if the bayonet is not listed on the balance sheet of a museum or collection, its alteration not prohibited - but there are nuances with wearing the finished product.

Who is this article for?

  • 🔧 Handicraftsmenthose looking for an inexpensive blank for their first knife;
  • 🏞️ Hunters and touristswho need a reliable tool;
  • ⚖️ Owners of SKS bayonets, doubting the legality of the alteration;
  • 💡 Collectors, assessing the feasibility of modification.
📊 Why do you want to make a knife from an SKS bayonet?
For hunting/fishing
As a souvenir/gift
Sell handmade
Just curious to try
Another option

The main question that slows down many enthusiasts is: won't I be included in the article? for the conversion of military property? The answer depends on the status of your bayonet and purpose of using the finished knife.

According to Federal Law No. 150-FZ “On Weapons”** (Article 1, clause 3), SKS bayonet is not a melee weapon, if:

  • 📜 He not listed in public collections or museums;
  • 🔫 Not part ammunition or active weapon;
  • ⚔️ Doesn't have special sharpening (factory sharpening of the bayonet is single sided blade with blunt back).

However, there are two critical points:

⚠️ Attention: If you shorten the blade to less than 90 mm and you will do double-sided sharpening, the finished product can be recognized cold steel according to Art. 6 gun law. Carrying such a knife without permission will result in a fine of up to 200 000 ₽ or correctional labor.

What to do?

  • 📋 Save purchase documents bayonet (checks, sales contracts);
  • 📏 Leave the length of the blade more than 9 cm;
  • ⚖️ Avoid aggressive design (Balisong or Karambit type blades).
💡

If you doubt the legality, contact your local branch of the Russian Guard with a photo of the bayonet and a sketch of the future knife. A written response will be your insurance.

2. Choosing a bayonet: which SKS modifications are suitable for a knife?

Not all SKS bayonets are equally good for conversion. For 50 years of production (1945–1995) they were produced at different factories with varying quality of steel. Here's what to consider:

Bayonet modification Years of manufacture Steel grade Knife Suitability Features
Type 1 (early) 1945–1950 50HGFA ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Best steel, high hardness after heat treatment
Type 2 (transitional) 1950–1955 65G ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Less wear resistant, but holds edge well
Type 3 (late) 1955–1995 U8/U10 ⭐⭐⭐ Requires mandatory re-hardening

How to determine the type of bayonet you have?

  • 🔍 Look at factory mark (for example, “Tula” or “Izhevsk”);
  • 📐 Measure blade thickness: early models - 4.5–5 mm, late - 3.5–4 mm;
  • 🧲 Check with a magnet: 50HGFA weakly magnetized U8/U10 - strongly.

If you get a bayonet late release (after 1970), be prepared for additional costs for normalization and hardening - without this, the knife will quickly become dull.

How to distinguish a fake SKS bayonet?

Fake bayonets are often made from low carbon steel (type St3), which is not suitable for a knife. Signs of a fake:

- The mark is too clear (on the originals it is often blurred);

- The blade bends from the force of the hand;

- No traces of oxidation (originals are often covered with black phosphating).

3. Tools and materials: what you need for work

Converting a bayonet into a knife requires minimum set of tools, but some operations (for example, heat treatment) are better left to professionals. Here's the full list:

☑️ Necessary tool

Done: 0 / 7

Step-by-step preparation:

  1. Cleaning: Remove rust and old coating with solvent (e.g. WD-40) and a metal brush;
  2. Marking: Draw the outline of the future knife with a marker using drawings;
  3. Trimming: Carefully cut off the excess part of the blade with a grinder, leaving an allowance 1–2 mm;
  4. Forming the cutting edge: File the chamfers at an angle 20–25°.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting with a grinder do not overheat the steel - this will ruin its structure. Take breaks every 10–15 seconds, cooling the blade in water.

Suitable for the handle:

  • 🌲 Wood (birch, walnut, rosewood);
  • 🖤 Micarta or textolite;
  • 🦌 Horn or bone (for decorative knives).
💡

If you do not have experience in heat treatment, take the blade to a workshop for hardening. The cost of the service is about 500–1000 rubles, but this guarantees a hardness of 56–58 HRC.

4. Step-by-step instructions: from bayonet to knife

Now let's move on to the most interesting part - turning a bayonet into a full-fledged knife. Let's look at the process using the example of creating hunting knife with blade length 120 mm.

Step 1. Shortening the blade

Using a grinder, cut off the shank of the bayonet, leaving 10–12 cm for the future handle. Important: you need to cut at an angle 5–10° down, so that later it will be convenient to form the heel of the blade.

Step 2: Forming the back and cutting edge

Using a file or grinder, remove the metal from the back, giving the blade wedge-shaped. The thickness of the butt at the tip should be 1.5–2 mm. To sharpen, use the following abrasive sequence: 80 → 120 → 240 → 400 → 1000.

Step 3. Heat treatment

This is the most critical stage. Algorithm:

  1. Heat the blade to 800–850°C (cherry red color);
  2. Cool in warm oil (not in the water!);
  3. Heat in the oven at 200°C within 1.5–2 hours.

Step 4. Making the handle

Cut two caps from your chosen material (such as micarta), drill holes for the rivets, and epoxy glue them to the shank. Once dry, grind the handle to the shape of your palm.

Step 5. Final polishing

Polish the blade with paste GOI or diamond paste to a mirror shine. Apply a thin layer to protect against corrosion. wax for metal.

💡

To check the quality of sharpening, try cutting a piece of paper “on the fly”. A good knife should cut effortlessly without catching on the edge.

5. Drawings and dimensions: ready-made diagrams for a knife from SKS

Below are 3 proven schemes knives from SKS bayonet indicating critical dimensions. You can print them out in full size (1:1 scale) and use them as a template.

Option 1: Hunting knife

  • 📏 Blade length: 120 mm;
  • 📐 Blade width: 25 mm;
  • 🔺 Sharpening angle: 22°;
  • 🖐️Handle length: 110 mm.

Option 2: Tactical knife

  • 📏 Blade length: 100 mm;
  • 📐 Butt thickness: 3.5 mm;
  • 🔺 Sharpening angle: 18° (for better cutting);
  • 🖐️ Handle with finger grooves.

Option 3: Kitchen knife (cleaver)

  • 📏 Blade length: 150 mm;
  • 📐 Width at heel: 35 mm;
  • 🔺 Sharpening angle: 25° (for strength);
  • 🖐️Hardwood handle (beech, oak).

When marking, keep in mind that The SKS bayonet has an asymmetric sharpening — the left side of the blade needs to be sharpened more strongly to get a smooth cutting edge.

6. Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when remaking bayonets. Here TOP-5 misses and ways to prevent them:

  1. Overheating of steel during cutting

    Symptoms: the blade becomes blue or purple and loses hardness.

    Solution: cut with water-cooled grinders at low speeds.

  2. Incorrect sharpening angle

    Symptoms: the knife does not cut or quickly becomes dull.

    Solution: For a utility knife, maintain an angle 20–22°.

  3. Weak handle fixation

    Symptoms: The pads become loose when impacted.

    Solution: Use epoxy + brass rivets.

  4. No heat treatment

    Symptoms: the blade bends or crumbles.

    Solution: mandatory hardening and tempering!

  5. Ignoring alignment

    Symptoms: the knife “falls” into the hand.

    Solution: check the balance on your finger - the balance point should be at.

⚠️ Attention: If after hardening the blade appears microcracks (visible under a magnifying glass), do not use such a knife - it may break under load!

7. Alternative ideas: what else can be made from an SKS bayonet

Don't want to make a knife? Other useful things can be obtained from the SKS bayonet:

  • 🪓 Kukuri ax: shorten the blade to 15 cm and expand the butt;
  • 🔪 Skinner for hunting: bend the tip of the blade upward;
  • ⚔️ Interior decor: polish and fix on a wooden stand;
  • 🛠️ Cutter for lathe: regrind to the desired profile;
  • 🎁 Souvenir dagger: Add engraving and horn handle.

If you have any left several bayonets, can be done knife set: large for meat, medium for vegetables and small for cleaning fish.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about SKS bayonet knives

❓ Do I need to register a knife made from an SKS bayonet?

No, if the blade length more than 90 mm and there is no double-sided sharpening. Otherwise, the knife is equated to a bladed weapon and is subject to registration with the Russian National Guard.

❓ Is it possible to make a knife from an SKS bayonet without heat treatment?

Technically yes, but there will be such a knife soft (hardness ~40 HRC) and will quickly become dull. Without hardening, steel will not reach its potential.

❓ How much does it cost to convert a bayonet into a knife from a professional?

The price depends on the complexity:

  • 🔹 Simple hunting knife: 3000–5000 ₽;
  • 🔹 Tactical knife with micarta handle: 6000–10 000 ₽;
  • 🔹 Art knife with engraving: 15 000 ₽+.
❓ Where to buy an SKS bayonet for conversion?

Legal options:

  • 🛒 Voentorg or militaria stores;
  • 🌍 Auctions (for example, Molnija or Gunsmith);
  • 🤝 Private advertisements (Avito, Yula) - but check the documents!

Price: from 1500 ₽ for a bayonet in poor condition 5000 ₽ for a collector's item.

❓ Which knife is better: SKS bayonet or spring?

Comparison:

Parameter SKS bayonet Spring
Hardness after hardening 56–58 HRC 52–54 HRC
Difficulty of processing Average High (requires powerful equipment)
Corrosion resistance Low (needs coverage) Average

Conclusion: the SKS bayonet is easier to process and gives a sharper blade, but the spring is cheaper and more accessible.