Doesn't start from the pushrod and doesn't turn the starter: 12 reasons and what the driver should do

Introduction: why the car refuses to start

The car does not respond to turning the ignition key, and attempts to start the engine “from a pusher” or in tow are also unsuccessful? Such symptoms are a sign of a malfunction in the starter circuit, a discharged battery, a broken solenoid relay or a broken ground wire, but it is dangerous to ignore them: incorrect actions (for example, repeated attempts to crank the crankshaft by force) can damage the flywheel crowns or the starter itself. Before sinning with an electrician, check the voltage at the battery terminals, the condition of the fuses and the reliability of the contacts - this will help narrow down the range of possible causes and avoid costly repairs.

In 80% of cases, three systems are to blame: battery, starter with retractor relay or electrical wiring. Less often, the problem lies in mechanical malfunctions of the engine (jammed crankshaft, broken timing belt) or control unit. It is important to understand: if the car does not start either with the key or with the pushrod, it is almost always electric or mechanical locking, and not “the battery just ran out.”

In this article we will look at step-by-step diagnostics - from checking the battery terminals to testing the starter windings. You will also find out what driver mistakes lead to complete failure of the retractor relay after several unsuccessful attempts to start the car from the pushrod.

1. Battery: low or faulty?

The first thing that comes to mind is a dead battery. But if the car does not start even with a pushrod (when the starter is not needed), the problem is deeper than just a discharge. Possible scenarios:

• 🔋 Deep battery discharge (voltage below 10.5 V) - the control unit refuses to start the engine, even if you turn it manually.
• ⚡ Open circuit in internal circuit — the battery shows voltage, but does not supply current (often after severe frosts).
• 🔌 Oxidized or loose terminals — there is contact, but it is not enough for the starter or ECU to operate.

How to check? Take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the ignition off:

• 12.6–12.8 V - the battery is charged.
• 12.0–12.5 V - partial discharge, you can try to “light a cigarette”.
• Below 11.8 V - deep discharge, the pusher will not help.

If the voltage is normal, but when you turn the key lights on the dashboard go out - the problem is in the terminals or internal break. Try cleaning the contacts with sandpaper and tightening them tightly. Never hit the terminals with a hammer - this will destroy the lead plates inside the battery..

2. Starter: why it doesn’t turn and how to check the solenoid relay

If you hear when you turn the key clicks, but the starter does not turn, the solenoid relay is at fault. If there's not even a click - the problem is in the power circuit or the starter itself. Let's look at both cases.

2.1. Solenoid relay diagnostics

The retractor relay is responsible for connecting the starter to ground and extending the bendix. Its malfunction manifests itself as follows:

• 🔊 Single click — the relay is triggered, but the contacts are burnt and do not allow current to pass through.
• 🔊 Multiple clicks — low voltage on the relay (battery is discharged or contacts are oxidized).
• 🔇 Silence - no power on the control wire (check the fuse F3 or F10 in the block).

How to check the relay without removing the starter? Apply voltage directly from the battery to the control contact (thin wire on the retractor) - if the starter starts working, the ignition circuit or lock is at fault.

How to find the control contact on the solenoid relay

Usually this is a connector with one thin wire (usually red or yellow) that comes from the ignition switch. On some models (for example, VAZ 2110 or Renault Logan) it is hidden under a rubber cap.

2.2. Checking the starter

If the solenoid relay is working properly, but the starter does not turn, the following are possible:

• 🔧 Brush wear — the starter motor does not receive power.
• 🔗 Armature winding break - checked with a multimeter in dial mode.
• 🛑 Seized bearing — the starter does not rotate even when directly connected to the battery.

For diagnostics, remove the starter and connect it directly to the battery (plus to the power bolt, minus to the housing). If it doesn't turn, it needs replacement or repair. Attention: Do not keep the connection longer than 3-5 seconds, otherwise the winding will burn out!

3. Wiring and fuses: where to look for a break

If the starter and battery are working, but the current does not reach the engine, the wiring is to blame. Start by checking:

• 🔌 Starter fuse (usually F10 or F20 in the block, but check according to the diagram of your model).
• 🔗 Power wire from the battery to the starter (thick cable, often red or black).
• 🔧 Ground wire from the body/engine to the battery (oxidation here is a common cause of “deafness” of the starter).

How to ring a chain? Take a 12V light bulb or multimeter and check:

1. The presence of +12 V on the control wire of the retractor when turning the key.
2. Ground integrity between engine and body (resistance should be close to 0 ohms).
3. Voltage on the starter power bolt when the retractor contacts are closed.

Breaks often occur in places where the wires are bent (for example, near the exhaust manifold, where they melt from the heat). If you find a damaged area, do not twist the wires - use soldering or terminal blocks.

4. Engine control unit (ECU) and immobilizer

Modern cars can be blocked from starting due to a failure in ECU or immobilizer. Signs:

• 🚨 The immobilizer light is on or flashing (the key is not recognized).
• 🔧 The starter turns, but the engine does not catch (no spark or fuel).
• 💻 Errors on the dashboard (for example, P1614 — communication failure with the immobilizer).

What to do:

1. Try the second key (if available).
2. Reset the battery terminals for 5-10 minutes (sometimes helps with ECU failure).
3. Check the immobilizer fuse (usually F1 or F5).

If the problem is in the immobilizer, you may need to flashing the chip in the key or replacing the antenna around the ignition switch. On some models (for example, Ford Focus 2 or Opel Astra H) the immobilizer blocks the starter completely - even with a pusher the car will not start.

5. Mechanical faults: when the engine is at fault

If the starter turns, but the engine does not start even with the pusher, it is possible mechanical breakdowns:

Sign	Possible reason	What to do
The starter turns, but is very slow	The crankshaft or camshaft is stuck	Try to turn the engine manually (by the pulley bolt)
Timing belt is torn or slipped	The valves meet the pistons	Remove the timing cover and inspect the belt
Gasoline comes out of the exhaust pipe	Ignition system does not work	Check the spark at the spark plugs
The starter turns, but the engine does not catch on	No compression in cylinders	Measure compression with a compression gauge

The most dangerous situation is broken timing belt. On most modern engines (for example, VW 1.4 TSI or Renault K4M) this leads to bending of the valves. If you heard before the breakdown cotton from under the hood, immediately stop trying to start the car and call a tow truck.

⚠️ Attention: If you hear a metallic grinding sound when cranking the starter, it may be damaged crankshaft bearing or broken tooth on the flywheel ring. Further attempts to start the engine will lead to expensive repairs!

6. Algorithm of actions: what to do right now

If the car does not start either with the key or with the pushrod, follow these steps:

1. Check the battery:
   • Terminal voltage (must be ≥12.4 V).
   • Cleanliness and density of contacts.
2. Test the starter:
   • Is there a clicking sound from the solenoid relay?
   • Does the starter turn when connected directly to the battery?
3. Ring the wiring:
   • Integrity of fuses.
   • Voltage on the pull-in control wire.

Eliminate mechanics:

• Try cranking the engine by hand.
• Check the timing belt (if accessible).

If at any stage you find a problem (for example, oxidized terminals or a blown fuse), fix it and try to start the car. If the diagnostics are unsuccessful, call a tow truck or an auto electrician.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to push start the car if the starter turns, but the engine does not catch. It could be broken timing belt, and every revolution of the crankshaft aggravates the breakdown!

FAQ: Frequently asked questions

Is it possible to burn out the starter if you turn the key for too long?

Yes, if the starter is faulty (for example, it is jammed or the brushes are worn out), prolonged cranking (more than 10–15 seconds) leads to overheating of the windings and their failure. Optimal mode: 3-5 seconds of scrolling, then a pause of 30 seconds.

Why doesn't the car start automatically when pushed?

Automatic transmissions (automatic transmission, variator) do not have a rigid connection between the wheels and the engine, so it is impossible to start them from a pusher. An exception is some models with a mode N (neutral), but this requires a speed of ≥50 km/h and risks breaking the box.

What to do if the starter turns, but the car does not start and shoots into the exhaust?

This is a sign over-enriched mixture (too much fuel, not enough air) or incorrect ignition timing. Check:

• Mass air flow sensor (MAF).
• Spark plugs (can be filled with gasoline).
• Integrity of high-voltage wires.

Try pressing the gas pedal all the way while cranking the starter - this may help “blow out” the cylinders.

How to understand that the immobilizer is to blame?

Signs:

• A light in the form of a car with a key flashes or lights up on the dashboard.
• The starter does not respond to turning the key or turns jerkily.
• The engine may seize for 1-2 seconds and stall.

Solution: try a second key, reset the battery terminals, or contact an auto electrician to retrain the keys.

Can a car not start due to a faulty alternator?

No, the generator is responsible for charging the battery while driving. If the battery is charged, but the car does not start, the generator has nothing to do with it. The exception is if you completely discharged the battery while trying to start, and then got behind the wheel with a faulty generator (the car will stall after a few kilometers).