Mitsubishi Lancer 9 will not start: a complete diagnostic guide

The situation when Mitsubishi Lancer 9 refuses to start, can take the owner by surprise at the most inopportune moment. Unlike modern cars with an abundance of electronics, the ninth Lancer has a fairly simple and reliable design, where most problems can be diagnosed visually or aurally. Understanding of basic operating principles engine 1.6 or 1.3 will help you quickly determine the troubleshooting vector without wasting time on chaotic checks.

The first step is to classify the nature of the failure: does it twist? starterwhether there is a spark and whether fuel is entering the cylinders. Often the problem lies in a banal battery discharge or oxidized contacts, which can be solved in 10 minutes. However, if the starter is silent or rotates the crankshaft, but the engine does not catch, the reasons may be more serious, including a broken timing belt or failure fuel pump.

In this article we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions for various launch failure scenarios. You will learn how to check the main life support systems of the engine and what components Mitsubishi Lancer IX most susceptible to typical “diseases” of age. Competent diagnostics will save you money on service station services and avoid unnecessary replacement of serviceable parts.

Starter diagnostics: silent or idling

If you do not hear a characteristic click or hum when you turn the key, it means that the starter electrical circuit is broken. In 90% of cases the culprit is himself battery. Check the voltage at the terminals: if it is below 11.5 Volts, the starter simply does not have enough power to turn the crankshaft. Also, the “mass” wires running from the body to the engine often become oxidized—cleaning them works wonders.

A more difficult case is when the starter clicks but does not turn, or makes a nasty squeal. This indicates wear on the bendix or solenoid relay. On Lancer 9 Access to the starter is relatively easy, but to remove it you will need to remove the air filter and, possibly, the battery plate. If the starter turns vigorously, but the engine is silent, the problem lies in the ignition or fuel supply system.

⚠️ Attention: If the starter makes a loud metallic grinding noise when you try to start, stop trying immediately! This is a sign that the Bendix is ​​“gnawing” on the flywheel, and further rotation will lead to costly repairs to the flywheel crown.

• 🔋 Check the electrolyte density and battery charge level with a multimeter.
• ⚡ Inspect the terminals for white deposits and tightness.
• 🔨 Gently tap on the starter housing (sometimes the brushes stick).

Problems with the fuel system and fuel pump

When the starter works properly, but the engine seizes and stalls or shows no signs of life at all, lack of fuel is often to blame. On Lancer 9 An electric fuel pump is installed, immersed in the tank. When you turn the ignition on, before the starter starts cranking, you should hear a quiet whirring noise coming from under the rear seat. If there is silence, the pump is not working.

The cause of the failure could be a blown fuse, fuel pump relay, or the motor itself. Also don't forget about fuel pump mesh: if it is clogged with rust or paraffin (in winter), fuel simply does not flow into the ramp. The pressure in the system should be about 3 atmospheres; You can check this by connecting a pressure gauge to the fuel rail fitting.

Another important element is the fuel pressure regulator. If it leaks, the mixture becomes too rich and floods the spark plugs, and if it doesn’t hold pressure, the car will only start after a long cranking. Owners often forget that a clogged fuel filter (located under the bottom of the car) is also capable of completely shutting off the gasoline supply.

• ⛽ Listen to the operation of the pump in the first seconds after turning on the ignition.
• 🔌 Check the FUEL PUMP fuse in the mounting block under the hood.
• 💧 Measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge.

⚠️ Attention: Before removing the fuel module, be sure to relieve pressure in the system by removing the pump fuse and running the engine until it stops. Otherwise, a stream of gasoline under pressure may splash you and the interior.

Ignition system: spark plugs, coils and distributor

The ninth Lancer is equipped with an ignition system with individual coils (on engines 1.6 and higher) or a distributor (on 1.3). If the engine stalls or does not start at all, the first thing you need to do is remove the spark plugs. Their condition will tell a lot: black soot will indicate a rich mixture, white soot will indicate a poor mixture, and oil deposits will indicate problems with the CPG.

A common problem is breakdown high voltage wires or cracks in the ignition coils. In wet weather, the spark may go to ground, which is why the car will not start. You can check for the presence of a spark by placing the unscrewed spark plug against the engine ground (just don’t hold it with your hands!). If the spark is weak or absent, check the coil and wiring.

It is also worth paying attention to the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV). If it is faulty or contaminated with chips, the ECU does not see the rotation of the motor and does not give the command to spark. On Mitsubishi Lancer 9 This sensor is located on the gearbox housing, and contamination with metal dust is common.

The influence of timing and compression on startup

The most unpleasant scenario for the owner is a belt break or jump timing belt. If the belt breaks, the camshaft stops rotating, the valves freeze, and the engine will not start. On series motors 4G1 When the belt breaks, the valves often bend, which requires a major overhaul of the cylinder head.

You can check the integrity of the timing belt by removing the top plastic protection and inspecting the belt. If the belt is intact, but the car does not start, the camshaft gear may have sheared or the crankshaft pulley has turned. In this case, the timing marks will be knocked off and the valve timing will be disrupted.

Low compression will also prevent the engine from starting. Worn piston rings, burnt-out valves or a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket lead to the fact that the necessary pressure is not created in the cylinders to ignite the mixture. Compression measurement is a mandatory procedure for engines with mileage over 200 thousand km.

⚠️ Attention: If you suspect a timing belt break, under no circumstances try to turn the starter for a long time! This can lead to the fact that the pistons will finish off the remaining intact valves, turning the repair into a full-fledged capital project.

• 📏 Visually check the tension and condition of the timing belt teeth.
• 🔧 Measure the compression in all cylinders (the norm for 1.6 is 12-14 bar).
• 👀 Make sure the marks on the pulleys line up when turning by hand.

Electronics: immobilizer and sensors

Modern cars including Lancer 9, tightly tied to electronic protection. If, when you turn the key, the immobilizer indicator on the dashboard flashes (usually a red key or car), and the starter does not turn, the system does not see the chip in the key. This can happen after the battery in the key fob is discharged or there is a failure in the control unit.

It's also worth checking out the main starter relay, which often fails. It is located in the mounting block under the hood. Simply replacing that little black cube often brings the car back to life. It would be a good idea to “ring” the engine ground, since oxidation of the main ground wire can block the operation of all electronics.

ECU errors can be read via the diagnostic connector OBD-II, located under the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. The presence of errors in the oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor or throttle valve may not prevent starting, but an error in the crankshaft position or phase sensor is critical.

Seasonal problems and quality of fuels and lubricants

in winter Mitsubishi Lancer 9 may not start due to condensation in the gas tank or frozen condensation in the exhaust system. Water that gets into the fuel sinks to the bottom of the tank and freezes in the fuel intake, cutting off the gasoline supply. The use of high-quality dehydrator additives helps solve this problem.

In summer, on the contrary, overheating is possible fuel pump or a vapor lock in the fuel line, especially if the car has been standing in the sun for a long time. In this case, briefly turning on the ignition without starting (so that the pump bleeds the system) several times in a row helps.

Low-quality fuel is the scourge of all cars. If, after refueling at a questionable gas station, the car begins to stall or stops starting, most likely the octane number does not meet the standard, or there is a lot of water and dirt in the gasoline. In such cases, only draining the fuel and flushing the system helps.