Installation of the built-in electric shield in the wall: from marking to connection

An embedded electrical shield is not just a box for automatic machines, but a key security element of your home, garage or workshop. Its proper installation in the wall guarantees protection against short circuits, overloads and fires, especially if we are talking about rooms with high load (for example, garages with welding equipment or auto repair shops). However, errors in installation – from the wrong depth of the niche to the violation of the insulation of cables – can lead to serious consequences, up to electric shock or failure of the entire electrical wiring.

In this article, we will analyze the entire installation process by steps: from the selection of a place and tools to the final connection and verification. We'll pay special attention. concealed (relevant for brick and concrete walls), the nuances of working with drywall, as well as typical mistakes that even experienced craftsmen make. If you plan to install the shield in a garage or workshop, where powerful appliances are often used (for example, compressors or chargers), these recommendations will help to avoid overheating and failures in the network.

Important: Installation of the electrical shield requires basic knowledge of electrical safety. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the work to a certified electrician. In the article, we give practical adviceWe are not a substitute for professional advice.

1. Preparation: choice of place and tools

The first step is to determine the optimal location for the shield. Not only is it easy to access, but also PUE (Rules of electrical installations):

• 📏 Height of installation1.4-1.7 m from the floor (for ease of service). In garages, installation at a height of up to 2 m is allowed, if the shield does not interfere with the passage.
• 🚫 Prohibited areasDo not install the shield over the heating appliances, in damp corners or near gas pipes (minimum distance - 1 m).
• 🔌 Proximity to input: the shield should be placed as close as possible to the place of entry of the cable into the room to minimize the length of the input wire.
• 🔧 AvailabilityAvoid areas that are filled with furniture or equipment. In the garage, the shield is often mounted next to the front door.

The following tools and materials will be required for installation:

If the wall is sheathed with drywall, additionally prepare:

• 🔹 Reinforced dowels (e.g., "mole" or "butterfly") to attach the shield.
• 🔹 Metal frame (If the shield is heavy, it is more than 10 kg).
• 🔹 lobzik to cut holes in the GCL.

⚠️ Attention: If other communications (water, gas, ventilation) pass in the wall, use it before strobling. wiring detector. Damage to a pipe or cable can cause an accident!

2. Marking and preparation of niches

Accurate markings are the guarantee that the shield will stand flat and will not protrude above the surface of the wall. Follow the algorithm:

1. Put the shield on the wall. And circle it with a pencil. Make sure the top edge is at the selected height (e.g. 1.5m from the floor).
2. Check the level. The shield should be strictly vertical. Use a laser or bubble level.
3. Mark the holes' centers. (If the shield is fixed on the dowel) They are usually located in corners or on the back panel.
4. Put the markings on the slab. under the inlet cable and the outlet lines (if they go inside the wall). The width of the sling is at least 20 mm, the depth is 25-30 mm.

For concrete or brick walls:

• 🔨 With the help of a punch and crown, drill holes along the contour of the shield (depth = shield thickness + 10-15 mm for reserve).
• 🔨 Remove the residues of the material with a chisel or hammer.
• 🔨 For the strobes, use a Bulgarian with a diamond disc or a stroboret. The depth of the sling must be sufficient so that the cable does not protrude above the surface.

For drywall:

• 🔪 Cut the hole on the marking with a jigsaw or knife.
• 🔪 Strengthen the edges of the niche with a metal profile if the shield is heavy.
• 🔪 To fasten the shield, use butterflies or anchor bolts (if there is a load-bearing wall for the GCL).

If the shield is mounted in a wooden wall (relevant for frame garages), use rose-powder Or coat the niche with a sheet of asbestos 3-5 mm thick for fire safety. In this case, the introductory cable should be in metal-handle.

3. Electric shield anchorage in a niche

After preparing the niche, proceed to fix the shield. The method of fastening depends on the wall material and the type of shield (plastic or metal).

For concrete/brick walls:

1. Check that the shield freely enters the niche with a gap of 5-10 mm on the sides (for alignment).
2. Drill holes under the dowels in the back wall of the niche (if the shield is attached through) or on the sides (if spacer legs are used).
3. Secure the shield with dowel-nails or screws. For reliability, use 4-6 mounting points.
4. Fill the gaps between the shield and the wall foaming (fire resistant!) or alabaster. Cut the excess after drying.

For drywall:

• 🔧 Fix the shield on the dowels-"butterflies" or anchor bolts (if there is a capital wall for the GCL).
• 🔧 If the wall is thin, use it. hydraulic Or reinforced foaming.
• 🔧 For heavy shields (more than 15 kg), pre-installing mortgages made of plywood or metal.

For wood-wall:

• 🔥 Be sure to use it. rose-powder Or put asbestos on the niche.
• 🔥 Mount the shield on screws on wood (length at least 50 mm).
• 🔥 Put the introductory cable in metal-handle grounded.

⚠️ Attention: If the shield is installed in a garage or workshop where vibrations are possible (e.g. from working equipment), use the vibrating-dowel Or additionally fix the shield with mounting foam around the perimeter.

4. Laying and connection of cables

Before connecting, make sure the inlet cable is off! Use it to check. voltage or multimeter.

Procedure:

1. Put the cables in the shield.:
   • Input cable to the top or bottom (depending on the model of the shield).
   • Exit lines (on sockets, lighting, powerful devices) wind through separate inputs.
   • Use it. seal-inTo protect the wires from being rubbed.
2. Remove the insulation.:
   • Use for multi-core wires stripper (the length of the bare section is 10-12 mm).
   • If the veins are oxidized, clean them with a knife or sandpaper.
3. Get the introductory machine on.:
   • The phase wire (usually brown or red) is to the upper terminal of the machine.
   • Zero wire (blue) - to the zero bus.
   • The ground (yellow-green) is to the ground bus.

1. Introductory machine (40 A)
2. UZO (40 A, 30 mA)
3. Socket machine (16 A)
4. Lighting machine (10 A)
5. Welding machine (25 A)
6. Compressor machine (16 A)
7. Zero tyre (N)
8. Ground bus (PE)