Finding the exact shade to restore your car's paintwork can often turn into a real detective story, especially when it comes to popular but difficult colors such as Milky Way. This iridescent white or light gray shade with a metallic sheen has become the hallmark of many models, but there is no single universal code for it. Each manufacturer uses its own marking system, and what is listed as “Milky Way” on one machine may be encrypted under a completely different alphanumeric set on another.

Making a mistake in choosing enamel during local repairs or complete repainting of the body means getting noticeable color transitions and “apple-colored” colors that will be noticeable in any sunlight. Milky Way Paint Code - this is not just a beautiful name, but a specific chemical formula that colorists recreate in the laboratory. In this article, we will look at how to find the serial number on your car, what analogues exist for different brands, and why computer selection is often more accurate than a catalog search.

Owners often underestimate the difficulty of restoring metallic and pearlescent structures, relying solely on visual similarities in a fan of colors. However pigmentation and the size of metal particles in the original factory paint may differ significantly from repair analogues. Understanding how to correctly read information from a body plate will save you time, money and nerves when contacting a service center or auto enamel store.

Where to look for the paint serial number on the body

The first and most important step before purchasing materials is to locate the nameplate or sticker with the VIN code and technical data. The location of this element depends on the make and model of the car, and you need to look for it carefully, since over the years of operation the information can be erased or lost during body repairs. Most often, manufacturers place this data in the engine compartment, on the driver's door pillar or in the spare wheel well.

On the plate you are interested in the column designated “Color”, “Paint”, “FarbNr” or containing the abbreviation “C/TR”. It is next to these designations that the desired one is hidden. color code. In some cases, especially with older European models, the number may be stamped directly on the metal of the body or duplicated in the service book, if it has been preserved in its original form. If you cannot find the marking, contact an authorized dealer, quoting your vehicle's VIN - the database will allow you to restore the exact specification.

⚠️ Attention: Never rely solely on a visual color comparison with a fan in the store. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and reagents, the original paint fades, and the new can may differ in code from the current state of the body.

An accurate identification often requires the use of a magnifying glass or good lighting, since the font on factory stickers can be very small. It is important to rewrite all numbers and letters without errors, since replacing even one character can lead to the purchase of enamel of a completely different shade, for example, instead of white mother-of-pearl you will get matte gray.

📊Where do you usually look for paint codes?
On the door pillar
In the engine compartment
In the trunk
I contact the dealer by VIN

Different automakers use their own coding systems, and the same visual shade “Milky Way” may have different designations. Below is a table to help you navigate the main markings that are found on the market. Remember that color names can be marketing, so the numeric or alphanumeric code always takes precedence.

Brand / Manufacturer Shade name Approximate paint code Coverage type
Toyota / Lexus Super White II / Milky Way 040 / 1C0 Basic / Mother of Pearl
Hyundai / Kia Creamy White / Milky Way WA6 / QG5 Metallic
Renault / Nissan Blanc Nacre / Galaxy White KHG / K51 Mother of pearl
BMW Alpine White / Milky Way 300 / A96 Basic / Metallic
VAG (VW, Audi) Candy White / Glacier White LY9B / LY9C Mother of Pearl / Metallic

It is worth noting that codes may vary depending on the model year. For example, at Toyota Code 040 may refer to a different chemical base depending on the decade of production. Therefore, when ordering paint from a laboratory, always check the year of manufacture of the car. This will allow the colorist to make the necessary adjustments to the recipe, taking into account possible changes in the production technology of the original materials.

Using a correspondence table is useful for initial orientation, but does not guarantee 100% match in tone without spectral analysis. Modern tinting systems allow you to create a mixture that is as close as possible to your specific specimen, taking into account the degree of burnout and operating conditions.

Why do codes change?

Manufacturers periodically update paint formulations due to environmental regulations or changes in pigment suppliers. Therefore, the same digital code in different years may give a slightly different shade. Always check compatibility based on the vehicle's year of manufacture.

Features of the selection of pearlescent shades

The “Milky Way” shade almost always implies the presence of complex pigments: mother-of-pearl, mica or special metal grain. These components create depth of color and the famous shimmering effect that is so valued by car enthusiasts. However, it is they who make the repair process the most difficult, since the direction in which metal particles are laid directly affects the final visual perception of color.

When applying repair paint, it is critical to follow the spray technique. If you change the pressure in the spray gun, the distance to the surface or the speed of passage, the metal particles will fall differently, and even paint that is perfectly matched to the spectrum will look darker or lighter than the original. This phenomenon is called metamerism, and can only be combated through careful adjustment of equipment and the use of the correct solvents.

  • 🎨 Layering: Pearlescent paints are often applied in multiple layers, with each layer adding depth but varying saturation.
  • 🔫 Pressure: Incorrect pressure will cause the “silver” to fall chaotically, creating spotting.
  • ☀️ Lighting: Always check color in daylight, as artificial lighting distorts the perception of mother-of-pearl.

In addition, such shades require the mandatory application of high-quality transparent varnish. The varnish not only protects the base, but also gives that deep gloss characteristic of the factory “Milky Way”. Without a good varnish, the color will look flat and dull, lacking its main attractive feature.

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Use only thinners recommended by the paint manufacturer. A solvent that is too fast or too slow can change the orientation of the metal particles when drying, ruining the entire result.

Application technology and necessary tools

For high-quality restoration of the Milky Way color coating, it is not enough just to buy a spray can. You will need to prepare the surface, degrease it, possibly apply primer, and only then begin painting. The process requires a compressor, a spray gun with a properly selected nozzle (usually 1.3–1.4 mm for the base) and a clean, well-ventilated room.

Before starting work, be sure to carry out a test spray on a test plate or hidden part of the body. This will allow you to evaluate the viscosity of the paint, the spray pattern and, most importantly, the consistency of the shade after drying. Wet samples always look darker and richer than dry ones, so don't jump to conclusions in the first few minutes.

☑️ Checklist before painting

Done: 0 / 5

An important step is drying. Pearlescent enamels require a certain amount of time for the solvent to evaporate between layers (interlayer drying). If you rush and apply the next layer on top of the previous one, which has not yet dried, defects such as clouding or swelling may occur, which will have to be eliminated by completely repainting the element.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to speed up drying with a hair dryer. Sudden heating can cause the solvent inside the paint layer to boil and form craters that cannot be removed by polishing.

Caring for the restored coating

After successful painting and curing of the varnish (which can take up to several weeks depending on conditions), the maintenance phase begins. Light pearlescent colors, such as Milky Way, tend to show dirt, tar stains and insect marks more clearly than darker tones. Regular washing with pH-neutral shampoos will help maintain shine.

To protect the restored area and the entire body, the use of ceramic coatings or high-quality waxes is recommended. They create a hydrophobic layer that prevents dirt from sticking and makes subsequent cleaning easier. In addition, additional protective layers help even out the microrelief, making the transition between old and new paint less noticeable.

Avoid using aggressive chemicals and abrasive sponges. Metallized paints are sensitive to mechanical stress, and improper washing can quickly lead to the appearance of microscratches (scratches), which will mat the surface and spoil the appearance of the overflow.

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The quality of surface preparation accounts for 80% of the success of painting. Even the most expensive paint will not hide putty defects or poor sanding.

Common mistakes when painting yourself

Restoring the Milky Way color on your own often leads to disappointment due to common mistakes made by beginners. One of the most common is ignoring adhesion. If you don't apply the correct primer or remove the gloss from the old coating, the new paint may simply peel off in chunks after a while.

Another mistake is saving on materials. Cheap solvents, low-quality degreasing wipes or cheap varnish can ruin all your color matching efforts. Low-quality varnish turns yellow over time, which will look especially depressing on a white or light gray background, giving away the place of repair.

  • 🚫 Bad disguise: Streaks on rubber bands and glass are difficult to remove without damaging the fresh paint.
  • 🌡️ Temperature: Painting in a room that is too cold or too hot will change the paint's behavior.
  • 🧹 Dust: Working in a dusty garage is guaranteed to introduce debris into the varnish, requiring sanding.

Waste disposal is also often forgotten. Remains of solvents and paint cans should not simply be thrown into household waste; this is harmful to the environment and may result in fines. Follow safety rules and dispose of chemicals at special collection points.

Is it possible to paint over the Milky Way with regular white enamel?

Technically it is possible, but visually the result will be different. Regular white acrylic will look flat and matte compared to the pearlescent original. In addition, over time it may turn yellow, while the original color will retain its shade.

How long does this type of paint take to dry?

The tack-free drying time is 15-30 minutes, but complete polymerization and strength gain take from 24 hours to 7-14 days. During this period, it is not recommended to wash the car with active chemicals or subject the body to heavy loads.

Do I need to remove the part for painting?

For an ideal result, especially with complex colors, it is better to remove the part. This will allow you to paint the ends and avoid paint getting on adjacent elements. However, experienced craftsmen make high-quality local repairs without removal, using complex shading techniques.

What to do if the paint code is not readable?

If the plate is destroyed by corrosion or erased, the only way out is computer selection. A professional will cut out a small sample of the paint (usually in a hidden place, such as under a cap or in a door frame) and recreate the formula using the spectrum.

Why is the new can different from the body?

This may be due to fading of the old coating, differences in factory batches, or tinting errors. Often additional tinting (mixing pigments) of ready-made repair paint for a specific car is required.