Self-painting is a challenge that many motorists who want to save money or get a result in which they are sure. However, before buying the first can of paint, you need to clearly understand: the quality of the final coating 80% depends on the preparation of the surface and only 20% on the technique of application. Minimum set for painting a car It is not just a spray gun and compressor, it is a whole ecosystem of tools, without which it is impossible to achieve factory gloss.
Many beginners make the mistake of focusing solely on the coloring composition, forgetting what is underneath it. grunt, putty right solvent They play an equally important role. If you plan to work in a garage rather than a sterile chamber, the requirements for clean air and tool preparation are many times higher. In this article, we will discuss what exactly you need to buy to avoid wasting money on the wind.
⚠️ Warning: Never start painting if the room temperature is below +18°C or the humidity is above 70%. This will lead to clouding of the varnish (the effect of "blush") and long drying, which will spoil the work.
Heart of the system: compressor and air preparation
The basis of any paint system is a source of compressed air. For garage use piston-compressor It is the most accessible and common solution. However, it is important to understand the difference between incoming and outgoing performance. If the passport is 300 liters per minute, then at the actual output at a pressure of 6 atmospheres you will get much less.
To work with spray guns such as HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure), which are most popular among beginners due to the savings of material, requires a stable air supply. Receiver With a volume of 50 liters or more, it will smooth out pressure pulsations, which is critical for a smooth torch. Less voluminous variants can lead to compressor spitting and defects on the surface.
Equally important is the stage of cleaning the air from moisture and oil. Even microscopic droplets of compressor oil that fall on the body can create craters that cannot be polished. Therefore water-separator This is not an option, but a mandatory element of the system.
- 🔹 Compressor with a receiver of 50 liters and a real volume of air at the output of 250 l / min.
- 🔹 Moisture separator with a pressure gauge for regulating the pressure at the entrance to the spray gun.
- 🔹 Hose air supply with a diameter of at least 9 mm (internal), so that there is no pressure drop.
- 🔹 Fine cleaning filter installed immediately before the spray gun.
⚠️ Note: The characteristics of compressors may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Always check the actual performance (liters per minute) at a certain pressure, not just the power of the motor.
For stable operation of the system, it is important to correctly calculate the length of the hose. Too long a hose will create resistance, and the pressure on the gun will drop, which will change the spray torch. The optimal length for garage conditions is considered to be a distance of up to 10 meters.
Selection of a spray gun: instrumental result
Choosing a spray gun is perhaps the most important moment. There are many models on the market, but for a beginner, the best choice will be the system. HVLP. It allows you to transfer to the surface up to 65-70% of the paint, minimizing fog and overconsumption of the material. An alternative is the Low Volume Low Pressure (LVLP), which requires less air but allows for fewer errors in the technique.
The key parameter of the spray gun is the size of the duse (nozzle). For applying the base enamel (metallic, mother of pearl, monotony) is ideal for dusa 1.3-1.4 mm. If you plan to apply a liquid putty or a filler soil, you will need a kit with a duse of 1.6-1.8 mm or even 2.0 mm.
Why can't you save on the spray gun?
Cheap Chinese handguns often have poorly treated needles and saddles, leading to an unstable torch and spitting paint. This makes it impossible to obtain a flat layer, especially on large planes.
The quality of the metal from which the tank and needle are made directly affects the durability of the tool. Stainless steel It is resistant to aggressive solvents, whereas cheap alloys can corrode, contaminating the paint.
- 🔹 The upper tank with a volume of 0.6-0.8 liters is convenient for working with small parts and hard-to-reach places.
- 🔹 The bottom tank (2 liters) is necessary for painting large areas such as the hood or roof so as not to interrupt the process.
- 🔹 Adjustment of the torch and the feeding of the material shall be smooth and fixed in the predetermined position.
After each work, the tool requires careful washing. Remains of paint, frozen in the channels, can fall off at the next work and spoil the fresh coating. Use special washing liquids or the same solvent as for the paint dilution.
Surface preparation: abrasives and grinding
No, not even the most expensive paint, will not hide the defects of preparation. Grinding This is a process that takes up to 70% of the total time. To remove old paint, rust and align the geometry of the body, a set of abrasive materials of different grains is necessary.
They usually start with rough abrasives (P60-R80) to remove deep defects, then move to the middle (P120-P180) and finish (P240-P320) before priming. It is important to remember the rule: each next layer is grinded with an abrasive in increments of no more than 100 units to remove risks from the previous one.
To work with putty and ground Often used grinding machine, but for hard-to-reach places and finishing indispensable hand bars. They allow you to control the plane and not create "pots" when pressed.
Particular attention should be paid to the dusting. After each step of grinding, the surface must be blown with compressed air and wiped. degreaser. The use of poor-quality wipes or rags can leave villi that will appear under the varnish.
Consumables: chemistry and protection
In addition to the basic equipment, you will need a wide range of supplies. Paint scotch It should be of high quality, with clear edges, so as not to leave a “step” when pasting. Cheap Scotch can skip the solvent under itself or leave a sticky mark after removal.
A cover film is used to protect the glass, rubber bands and elements that are not subject to painting. It is perforated (with duct tape) and ordinary. Camouflage caps for headlights and handles are also needed.
| Materials | Appointment | Important nuances |
|---|---|---|
| Degreaser | Removal of silicones, oils, dust | Use the lilac-free wipes |
| Antisilicone | Deep cleaning before painting | Do not touch the surface with your hands after treatment |
| Sticky napkin. | Collecting microdust before application | Make easy movements before the spraying |
| Solvent | Paint dilution and washing | Select strictly for the type of paint (646, 647, 470, etc.) |
Don’t forget about personal protective equipment. Solvent vapors are toxic, and fine dust of paint settles in the lungs. Respirator. with carbon filters and protective jumpsuits are mandatory elements of equipment.
Use nitrile gloves when working with a degreaser. Latex gloves can dissolve under the influence of aggressive chemistry and stick to the details.
Application technology: soils and varnishes
The painting process is multilayered. First one goes. acidic (phosphate) on bare metal for protection against corrosion. Then acrylic soil-filler is applied, which levelles the surface and hides the risks from grinding. Only after that, the basic enamel and varnish follow.
To work with soils, a separate spray gun or the most thorough washing of the main one is often required. The residues of soil in the channels can dry and create problems when painting with color. Lacquer is applied in 2-3 layers with interlayer exposure specified by the manufacturer.
☑️ Layering procedure
It is important to observe the time intervals between layers (interlayer drying). If you hurry, the solvent can boil under the top layer, creating bubbles. If you hold it, the adhesion between the layers will be broken.
Polishing and finishing
Even with perfect painting in garage conditions, small dust particles or “shagrain skin” (orange peel) can remain on the surface. To give a mirror shine is necessary polishing. This step is performed after the varnish has been cured completely, usually after 3-4 weeks, but quick repair systems exist.
For polishing, a polishing machine will be required (preferably with speed adjustment), a set of circles (hard, medium and soft) and polishing pastes of different abrasiveness. Start with a rougher paste to remove the defect and finish the finish for the gloss effect.
⚠️ Note: Only completely dry lacquer can be polished. If the paste starts to smear or warm too much, stop - the varnish is still soft and you can wipe it to the base.
Hand polishing is possible, but it is extremely time-consuming and does not give such a result as machine polishing. For a beginner, a machine with the right circles is the only rational solution for obtaining a professional appearance.
The quality of polishing depends not so much on the force of pressing, as on the purity of the surface and the correct selection of a circle-paste pair.
Budget and savings: what you can not save
When making a budget, many people try to save on everything. However, there are some things that cannot be saved. It's solvent and paintwork. Cheap solvents can contain aggressive impurities that destroy the paint structure or leave greasy stains.
Also, you should not buy the cheapest spray gun "nouneim". A good tool lasts for years and pays off for 2-3 machines. Cheap can flow at the most inopportune moment or start to “spit” paint.
At the same time, you can save on the compressor, taking it used, or on a grinder, performing some of the work manually. But the basic set of chemistry and protective equipment should be of high quality.
Which compressor to choose for painting the entire car?
To paint the whole car in one sitting (or with minimal interruptions) a compressor with a receiver of at least 100 liters and output capacity from 350-400 liters per minute is required. This will provide stable pressure without pause on the air set.
Can I paint my car in the winter in an unheated garage?
It's not recommended. The low temperature prevents the normal spreading of the paint and the evaporation of the solvent. The polish may become cloudy, and the adhesion will be disturbed. The minimum temperature for most materials is +18°C.
How many layers of varnish do you need to apply?
The application of 2 full layers and one control (light) layer is considered optimal. This provides color depth, protection from UV radiation and the possibility of subsequent polishing without the risk of rubbing the layer to the base.
Do I need to remove the doors for painting?
For a beginner, removing the doors, hood and trunk lid is the best option. This will allow you to qualitatively paint the ends and avoid getting paint on rubber seals, which then have to be cleaned for a long time.