Raising a car with a jack is a seemingly simple task. But a mistake in choosing a support point can result in a bent threshold, a broken weld, or, worse, the car falling on a person. Even experienced car owners sometimes neglect checking standard places for jack, relying on the “eye” or advice from dubious sources. Meanwhile, manufacturers clearly indicate these points in the operating instructions - and it is dangerous to ignore them.
In this article we will look at how to correctly determine jacking points for different types of bodies, what errors lead to breakdowns, and what to do if standard parts are damaged or missing. Let us separately dwell on the nuances for SUVs, sports cars and cars with non-standard suspension. And at the end - answers to frequently asked questions that will help you avoid common mistakes.
Why you can’t place a jack anywhere
The car body is not a monolithic structure, but a complex system of power elements and thin-walled panels. If you place the jack in an unprepared place (for example, on a plastic body kit or a rusty threshold), the consequences can be critical:
- 🔧 Deformation of the threshold or spar - thin metal will simply bend under the weight of the car, and restoring its geometry will then be expensive.
- 💥 Jack failure - If the support slips in a wet or dirty area, the vehicle may fall, damaging parts or injuring a person.
- ⚡ Damage to electrical wiring — in modern cars, wiring harnesses often pass under the thresholds (for example, to parking sensors).
- 🔥 Fire — if the jack hits the fuel tank or exhaust system (important for cars with non-standard tuning).
Manufacturers are counting jacking points taking into account load distribution. For example, in most sedans and hatchbacks these places are located behind the front wheel and in front of the rear - where the body is reinforced with cross members. SUVs and pickup trucks often have additional points under the frame. Ignoring these recommendations is like trying to lift a cabinet by its legs: sooner or later something will break.
⚠️ Attention: If you bought a used car with rusty sills, never lift it by its original points without first checking it. Corrosion weakens the metal, and the jack may simply fall inward.
Where to look for standard places for a jack
First rule: always start with the instruction manual. It has a diagram with the lifting points marked (usually they are indicated by triangles or arrows). If you don’t have a manual, inspect the car’s sills—manufacturers often apply special tags:
- 🔺 Notches or protrusions — small recesses or “pockets” under the plastic sill trims.
- 🟥 Colored marks - red, yellow or orange triangles on welds.
- 📏 Inscriptions - on some models (for example, Toyota or Volkswagen) words are knocked out
JACKorLIFT.
If there are no labels, use the universal rule:
| Body type | Front points | Back points |
|---|---|---|
| Sedan/hatchback | Behind the front wheel, threshold booster | In front of the rear wheel, next to the C-pillar |
| Station wagon/crossover | Same as sedan | Under the rear beam, closer to the wheel |
| SUV/pickup | On a frame or reinforced subframe | On the rear cross member or side member |
| Sports car | Special recesses under the thresholds (often hidden) | Points on subframe or monocoque |
On machines with independent multi-link suspension (for example, Audi A4 or BMW 5-series) rear points can be hidden under plastic panels. In this case, you will have to remove the protection to get to the metal amplifier.
How to prepare your car before lifting
Even if you have found the correct points, it is not enough to simply install the jack and start turning the handle. Climbing unprepared is a risk:
Turn off the engine and put the handbrake on|Make sure that the car is on a level surface|Put chocks under the wheels (on the opposite side of the lift)|Check that the jack is strictly vertical|Clear the jacking points from dirt and ice-->
Pay special attention wheel chocks. Even on smooth asphalt, the car can move if the jack begins to sag. Suitable stops:
- 🪨 Special "shoes" (sold in auto stores).
- 🧱 Bricks or heavy boards (if there is nothing at hand).
- 🚗 Spare wheel - it can be placed under the wheel diagonally opposite to the one being lifted.
If you have to lift the car soil or gravel, place a wide board or metal plate under the jack. This will prevent it from sinking into the ground. But on slope It is better not to lift at all - even with stops, the risk of capsizing is too high.
⚠️ Attention: Never lift the car if it is standing on automatic car wash or on slippery surface (for example, after rain). Water and soapy water reduce traction and the jack may slip.
What to do if the standard points are damaged
Rust, accidents or unskilled repairs can render standard jacking points unusable. In this case, you will have to look for alternative options. Main rule: the load should be distributed on the power element of the body, and not on thin metal or plastic.
Here are some proven methods:
- 🔧 Subframe or cross member - if it is metal and has no traces of corrosion. Suitable for most front wheel drive cars.
- 🚗 Spars - only if they are not deformed. On some machines (for example, Nissan Patrol) the spars are specially reinforced for lifting.
- 🔩 Suspension bolts - can be used special adapters for jacks that cling to the bolts of levers or shock absorbers.
If damaged everything standard points, there are two options left:
- Contact a car servicewhere there is a lift. This is the safest way, but not always possible (for example, if the tire gets flat on the road).
- Use two jacks — lift the machine simultaneously on both sides, distributing the load to less damaged areas. This method requires experience and strict control of the lifting height so that the body does not warp.
What are the dangers of lifting by the suspension arms?
It is strictly forbidden to lift the car by the suspension elements (levers, balls, stabilizers). This leads to:
- Deformation of silent blocks and bushings (they will have to be replaced).
- Damage to CV joint boots or ball joints.
- Breakage of bolted connections (if the jack slips).
The exception is special adapters that evenly distribute the load.
Features for different types of cars
There are no universal solutions - the design of the body and suspension dictates its own rules. Let's look at the nuances for the most common types of machines.
Sedans and hatchbacks
In most cases, the points are located behind the front wheel (on the threshold amplifier) and in front of the rear (next to the counter). However there are exceptions:
- 🚗 Volkswagen Golf and Audi A3 — the rear point is hidden under a plastic cover that needs to be removed.
- 🚗 Toyota Corolla (E170) - the front point is shifted closer to the door rather than to the wheel.
- 🚗 Renault Logan — on models before 2015, the rear point is located not on the threshold, but on the side member.
SUVs and crossovers
Here the jack is most often placed on frame or subframe. But it is important to consider:
- 🏔️ On Toyota Land Cruiser 200 and Nissan Patrol there are special “ears” for towing - they can be used for lifting.
- 🏔️ Kia Sorento and Hyundai Santa Fe have points on the sill reinforcements, but they often rust - check before lifting.
- 🏔️ On UAZ Patriot The jack is placed only on the side members - the sills are too weak for the load.
Sports and low cars
Cars like Porsche 911 or BMW M3 have low ground clearance and often - carbon fiber body elements. Here the rules are:
- 🏎️ Use only special jacks with low lift (for example, QuickJack).
- 🏎️Jacking points can be hidden under
aerodynamic body kit- it will have to be dismantled. - 🏎️ Never lift by diffuser or splitter - they are not designed for vertical loads.
If you have a car with air suspension (for example, Mercedes S-Class or Range Rover), before lifting, be sure to switch it to the “Body Lifting” mode (Lift Mode). This will prevent damage to the air springs.
Electric cars and hybrids
The main danger here is high voltage batteries, which are often located at the bottom of the body. Rules:
- ⚡ On Tesla Model 3 and Model Y Jacking points are marked with orange marks under the sills.
- ⚡ Never lift by
battery protection- this may damage the battery cells. - ⚡ On hybrids (for example, Toyota Prius) Avoid the area under the rear seat - that's where the battery is located.
Which jacks are suitable for different tasks?
No less important what jack do you use. There are no universal solutions - each task requires its own tool.
| Jack type | For which cars | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rhombic (helical) | Passenger cars (up to 2 tons) | Compact, cheap, easy to use | Low stability, low lift height |
| Bottle (hydraulic) | SUVs, trucks (up to 5 tons) | High load capacity, reliability | Requires a flat surface, dear |
| Roll-up | Car services, frequent work | Convenient, fast, stable | Bulky, not suitable for off-road use |
| Scissor (for spare wheel) | Emergency repairs on the way | Lightweight, included in car kit | Unreliable, low lift height |
For low sports cars it is better to choose a jack with minimum pick-up height (for example, QuickJack BL-5000SLX). And for SUVs suitable with high ground clearance hydraulic bottle jack with an extended rod (for example, Torin Big Red).
⚠️ Attention: Never use a jack with an excessive load. For example, if your Toyota RAV4 weighs 1.8 tons, and the jack is designed for 1.5 tons, the risk of collapse increases significantly. Always take the tool with carrying capacity reserve at least 20%.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced car owners sometimes make mistakes. Here are the most common:
- 🚫 Climbing on soft ground - the jack fails, the car falls. Solution: use wide support platforms.
- 🚫 Using wooden blocks instead of stops - they can split. Solution: metal or rubber stops.
- 🚫 Lifting by plastic body kit — it breaks and the jack slips. Solution: remove the body kit or look for metal points.
- 🚫 Working under a machine without safety stands - if the jack breaks, the consequences will be fatal. Solution: Always use stops.
Another common mistake is Incorrect jack installation angle. It must stand strictly vertically, without tilting. If the jack is positioned crookedly, when lifting it may:
- 🔧 Bend the threshold (if tilted towards the body).
- 💥 Slip out (if tilted outward).
- ⚡ Damage the hydraulics (at bottle jacks).
If you need to change a tire on the side of the road, never lift your car on an incline. It’s better to call a tow truck or tow the car to a flat area. The risk of capsizing on a slope outweighs the savings from having a technician visit.
FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions
Is it possible to lift a car by the suspension arm?
No, this is one of the most dangerous mistakes. The arms, ball joints and stabilizers are not designed to withstand vertical loads. Lifting by them will lead to deformation of the silent blocks, rupture of the anthers, or even breakage of the fasteners. The exception is special adapters that evenly distribute the weight.
What to do if the jack starts to sag?
If the jack lowers slowly under load, stop working immediately and:
- Check whether it is level (perhaps the ground has subsided).
- Make sure that the load does not exceed the rated load (weight of the machine + weight of the parts).
- If the jack is hydraulic, check the oil level and seals for leaks.
- Protect yourself with stands or stops, even if the jack is still holding.
If the subsidence continues, immediately lower the car and replace the jack.
How to lift a car if all the sills are rusty?
In this case:
- Try to find solid areas spars or subframe.
- Use two jacks from different sides, distributing the load.
- If all else fails, call a tow truck. plateau (not with a winch, as that also requires solid mounting points).
Remember: rusty sills are not only a problem for the jack, but also serious security issue. Such a car may not withstand even a small accident.
Can the jack be used for long-term work (for example, suspension repairs)?
No, the jack is only for short-term recovery. If you need to work under the machine for longer than 10-15 minutes, be sure to use safety racks or goats. Even the most reliable jack can suddenly break due to:
- Oil leaks (hydraulic models).
- Rod deformations (in screw jacks).
- Support displacements (if the soil has subsided).
The racks must be designed to support the weight of the vehicle and be installed on flat hard surface.
What is the difference between the points for a jack and for a lift?
These are two different concepts:
- Jack points - designed for local load (lifting one side). Usually these are reinforced sections of the thresholds or frame.
- Lift points - intended for uniform weight distribution (for example, at a service station). They may coincide with the jack points, but are often located symmetrically at the front and rear.
For example, on Volkswagen Passat B6 The jack points are behind the wheels, and the lift points are under the front and rear cross members.