The situation when automatic washing machine Stops pumping out water correctly after a wash cycle, which is one of the most common and unpleasant problems in everyday life. The water can remain in the tank completely or leave extremely slowly, leaving the laundry wet and dirty, which is often accompanied by a characteristic hum or, conversely, complete silence of the equipment. Modern units from Bosch, LG or Indesit a malfunction is usually signaled by an error code on the display, but older models may simply stop.
Ignoring the problem can lead to more serious consequences, such as failure of the heating element or even combustion of the motor due to overload. Water that stagnates in the system promotes the growth of bacteria and the appearance of an unpleasant odor, which is subsequently difficult to remove from rubber seals and internal pipes. Therefore, it is important to quickly determine why pump does not cope with its task, and eliminate the cause.
In most cases, the problem lies in a simple clogged filter or a pinched drain hose, which the user can fix on his own without calling a technician. However, there are also more complex scenarios associated with electronic failure or mechanical wear of pump parts. Next, we will analyze in detail all the possible causes and methods for eliminating them, so that you can bring your equipment back to life.
Blocking the drain filter and garbage plug
The most common reason why washing machine does not drain the water, the drain filter located in the lower front part of the housing is clogged. During operation, coins, buttons, lint, threads and other small objects get there, which gradually accumulate and block the flow of liquid. If the filter is critically clogged, the water either stands still or flows out in a thin stream, unable to escape faster than the pump delivers it.
To clean, you need to open the technical hatch, place a low container for residual water and carefully unscrew the plug counterclockwise. Be prepared for dirty water to pour out of the hole, so it is better to lay a rag on the floor in advance. Inside you can find not only dirt, but also lost small items that miraculously passed through the drum.
⚠️ Attention: Before unscrewing the filter, be sure to disconnect the washing machine from the power supply to avoid electric shock, since water is a conductor.
After mechanical cleaning, it is important to check the filter cover itself for cracks and the condition of the threads. Sometimes the problem lies not in the filter itself, but in the fact that a large object, for example, a bra wire, is stuck directly in the pump impeller just behind the filter. In this case, you will need to carefully, using tweezers or thin wire, try to remove it by twisting the blades with your finger.
Carry out preventative cleaning of the drain filter once every 3-4 months, even if the machine is working properly, this will extend the life of the pump.
Clogged or pinched drain hose
If the filter is clean and there is still water in the tank, the next thing to check is drain hoseconnecting the pump to the sewer system. Over time, the corrugated inner surface of the hose becomes overgrown with soap deposits, which narrows the passage and impedes the flow of water. In addition, the hose may be accidentally pinched by the machine body, furniture or door if the unit is installed in a niche.
To diagnose, you need to disconnect the hose from the sewer tee and lower its end into a bucket, starting the “Drain” mode. If the water flows freely and with good pressure, then the problem is in the home’s sewerage system or siphon. If the pressure is weak or absent, the hose must be removed completely and washed under a strong stream of hot water using a pipe brush.
- 🔍 Inspect the hose along its entire length for kinks, especially in bends.
- 🧼 Soak the hose in a citric acid solution to dissolve fatty deposits inside.
- 🔌 Check the connection to the sewer: the sink siphon may also be clogged.
Often users are faced with a situation where the hose is connected to the sewer too deeply or, conversely, is leaky. If the end of the hose is placed too low in the drain, a siphon effect may occur, where water constantly leaks or, conversely, cannot be pushed out by the pump due to back pressure. The correct hose height (usually 60-90 cm from the floor) is critical for correct operation pumps.
Malfunctions of the drain pump (pump)
When mechanical obstacles are excluded, and the water still does not drain, there is a high probability of failure of the drain pump. This device creates the necessary pressure to push the water out, and its failure can be caused by both electrical and mechanical reasons. Pumps in modern machines such as Samsung or Electrolux, are consumables and last an average of 5-7 years.
One of the symptoms is a humming sound from the pump when the impeller does not rotate. This indicates that electricity is being supplied to the motor, but the mechanical part is jammed. Often a small object (a bra wire, a paper clip) gets there and blocks the shaft. In this case, the pump can sometimes be revived by disassembling it and removing the foreign body, but more often replacement is required.
If the pump is silent and does not make any sounds, the problem may be a break in the motor winding or a lack of voltage at the terminals. You can check the integrity of the winding with a multimeter: the resistance of a working motor is usually from 150 to 200 Ohms. If the device shows infinity or zero, the pump must be unconditionally replaced.
⚠️ Attention: Replacing the pump requires partial disassembly of the machine body, so if you are not confident in your skills, it is better to entrust this work to a specialist.
Problems with the electronic control module
In rare cases, when all mechanical components are in good working order, the reason for stopping the drainage is a malfunction electronic module (control boards). It is the “brains” of the machine that command the pump to start working at a certain point in the cycle. If the triac that controls the pump burns out or there is a software failure in the board, the command simply will not be executed.
Diagnosing the module at home is difficult and requires special knowledge and equipment. However, you can carry out a visual inspection of the board: it often shows traces of burning, swollen capacitors or oxidized contacts. Power surges are a leading cause of failure of sensitive electronics.
Sometimes the problem is solved by rebooting the system: unplug the machine for 15-20 minutes, and then turn it on again. If the drain cycle starts after this, there may be a temporary software glitch. Otherwise, professional repair or replacement of the control module will be required.
Clogged internal pipes and channels
Between the tank and the pump, as well as between the tank and the powder dispenser, there are rubber pipes, which can also become clogged. The pipe leading from the tank to the pump gets clogged especially often, since this is where all the debris that has bypassed the filter flows (if it has been removed or damaged). In these places, dense plugs of hair, threads and petrified powder often form.
To check these components, you will have to remove the top cover of the machine and, possibly, dismantle the front panel. Visually inspect all visible hoses: if a swollen “hump” is visible in some area, it means that a plug has formed inside. The pipe must be removed, cleaned with a brush and rinsed thoroughly.
How to remove the pipe?
Disconnect the clamps on both sides of the pipe and carefully pull it off the plastic fittings. Be careful, the plastic becomes brittle over time and may burst.
Pay special attention to the area where the pipe connects to the tank. Mucus and mold often accumulate there, which harden over time and block the lumen. Regular use of descaling products and preventive washing at high temperatures help prevent the formation of such deposits.
Table of error codes of popular brands
Modern washing machines are equipped with a self-diagnosis system that displays error codes when drainage problems are detected. Knowing these codes greatly simplifies troubleshooting. Below is a table with the most common designations for different manufacturers.
| Brand | Error code | Decoding | Probable Cause |
|---|---|---|---|
| LG | OE / E10 | Drain problem | Clogged filter or hose |
| Bosch | E18 / F18 | Drain time exceeded | Pump fault |
| Indesit | F05 | Water level sensor | Pressostat sticking |
| Samsung | 5E / E1 | Water drain error | Clogged or broken circuit |
| Electrolux | E20 | Drain problem | Filter/hose clogged |
It is worth remembering that codes may vary depending on the specific model and year of manufacture of the equipment. The exact decoding can always be found in the instruction manual or on the manufacturer’s official website by entering the full model number.
The error code is the first and most important step to diagnosis and cannot be ignored.
Failure of the water level sensor (pressure switch)
Pressostat is a sensor that tells the control module how much water is in the tank. If it is faulty or its tube is clogged, the machine may “think” that there is no water in the tank and simply will not start the pump. Or, on the contrary, consider that the water has already been drained, although it is still standing.
Often the problem lies not in the sensor itself, but in the thin tube connecting it to the tank. Condensation and dirt accumulate inside this tube, which distorts the transmission of air pressure. It is enough to remove the tube, blow it out and clean it to restore normal operation of the system.
If the tube is clean, but the car behaves inappropriately, the sensor itself may have failed or the contacts on its connector have oxidized. The pressure switch is checked with a multimeter in continuity mode: when air is supplied (simulating water level), the contacts should click and change resistance.
Prevention and proper care of the drain system
To ensure that the problem “the machine does not drain water well” occurs as rarely as possible, it is necessary to follow a number of preventive rules. Regular maintenance of equipment is the key to its longevity. You shouldn’t wait until the machine stops completely; it’s better to prevent blockages.
☑️ Prevention checklist
Always check the pockets of clothing before loading into the drum. Small change, keys, paper clips and pieces of paper are the main enemies of the drainage system. To wash delicate items with accessories, use special mesh bags that will retain the torn items.
Once every six months, it is recommended to run an empty wash at a temperature of 90-95°C with the addition of citric acid or a special detergent for cleaning washing machines. This will help dissolve fatty deposits and scale inside the pipes and on the heating element, improving the overall hydrodynamics of the unit.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use too much powder and be sure to use descalers if you live in an area with hard water, as lime deposits narrow the passageways.
Why does the machine hum when draining, but does not take water?
A humming sound indicates that the pump motor is trying to run but the impeller is blocked. Most likely, a foreign object (coin, bone) got into the pump or the pump bearing is jammed due to wear. It is necessary to remove the pump and check the free movement of the impeller.
Is it possible to operate the machine if it does not completely drain the water?
Highly not recommended. Remaining water leads to rapid oxidation of contacts, mold growth and corrosion of internal elements. In addition, during the next cycle, washing will take place in dirty water, which will negatively affect the quality of the laundry.
How can you tell if the control module has burned out and not the pump?
If the pump does not make any sounds when the drain mode is turned on, and at the same time voltage comes to it (checked by a tester), but it is silent, there may be a problem in the module that does not send a signal. However, most often silence means a break in the winding of the pump itself. An accurate diagnosis can only be made using a multimeter.
What to do if the drain hose is connected too low?
If the hose is lowered into the sewer below 50-60 cm from the floor, there may be a constant gravity flow of water from the machine or, conversely, difficult drainage due to back pressure. It is necessary to secure the hose on the back wall of the machine at the recommended height (usually there is a special hook) and only then lower it into the sewer.