The car makes “kyt-kyt” and won’t start: 7 reasons and what to do

You turned the key in the ignition, but instead of the usual growl of the starter, you hear only a rhythmic "kyt-kyt" (or “clack-clack”), but the engine is stubbornly silent? This problem is familiar to many car owners - from the owners VAZ-2109 up to Toyota Camry last generations. The sound indicates that the starter circuit is opens and closes, but there is not enough energy to fully rotate the crankshaft.

In 80% of cases it is to blame dead battery or a malfunction in the starter circuit, but there are also less obvious reasons - from oxidized terminals to jammed solenoid relay, which can burn out after 3-4 unsuccessful starting attempts. In this article we will analyze all possible scenarios and learn to distinguish between “kyt” broken starter from "kyt" dead battery, and we’ll give you a checklist for self-diagnosis - without visiting a service station.

1. Why does the car make a “kyt-kyt” sound instead of starting normally?

The “kyt-kyt” sound (or a series of clicks) is made by starter solenoid relay - it tries to work, but there is not enough strength to hold the bendix gear and rotate the armature. This is similar to the situation when you try to turn a nut with a rusty wrench: there is a click, but there is no movement. The reasons are divided into three groups:

• 🔋 Eating problems: discharged battery, oxidized terminals, open ground.
• ⚙️ Starter malfunctions: worn brushes, burnt contacts of the solenoid relay, jammed bendix.
• 🔌 Circuit breaks: damaged wires, burnt fuses, problems with the ignition switch.

The simplest test: turn on high beam or alarm. If the lamps burn dimly or flash to the rhythm of the “kytu” - it’s your fault battery. If the light is bright and stable, the problem is starter or wiring.

2. Battery diagnostics: when is the battery to blame?

A dead battery is the most common cause of “kyt-kyt”. Even if yesterday the car started normally, today battery could be discharged due to:

• 🔌 Headlights, radio or heated glass left on (overnight battery 60 Ah will discharge to 0%).
• 🌡️ Frost: at −20°C, the battery capacity drops by 30–40%, and the starting current by 50%.
• 🔄 Aging: after 4–5 years of service battery loses up to 60% of capacity.
• 🚗 A faulty generator that does not recharge the battery while driving.

How to check:

1. Measure the voltage at the terminals multimeter:
   • 🔴 12.6–12.7 V - the battery is charged.
   • 🟡 12.0–12.5 V — partial discharge (may not be enough to start).
   • 🔴 Below 11.8 V - deep discharge, requires charging.

Try to “light” from another car. If the car starts after this, it’s your fault. battery.

Check the terminals: oxides (white deposits) increase the resistance of the circuit. Clean them up sandpaper or soda solution.

⚠️ Attention: If, when you try to start, there is a smell of sulfur or acid coming from under the hood, this is a sign electrolyte boiling in banks battery. Immediately disconnect the battery and check the fluid level (on serviced models).

3. Solenoid relay: why does the starter click but not turn?

If the battery is in order, but the “kyt-kyt” continues, the next one in line is solenoid relay. Its task is to push the Bendix gear towards the flywheel and close the contacts to supply current to the starter. When the relay clicks but doesn't hold, the same sound is heard.

Causes of malfunction:

• 🔥 Burnt contacts (“nickels”) inside the relay - due to sparking during frequent starts.
• 🧲 Weak electromagnet: the relay coil has lost power (often happens in older Bosch starters or Denso).
• 🛠️ Mechanical wear: the spring has weakened, the anchor is jammed.

How to check:

1. Remove the starter (or get to the solenoid relay).
2. Connect positive wire from battery to the control contact of the relay, and minus - on the body. A working relay should click and move the gear out.
3. If there is a click, but the gear does not move out, the relay must be replaced.

Symptom	Probable Cause	Solution
Single click, then silence	The retractor contacts are burnt	Clean or replace relay
Repeated "kyt-kyt"	Weak battery or open circuit	Charge the battery, check the wires
There is a click, but the starter does not turn	Anchor or bendix jammed	Disassemble the starter, lubricate or replace parts
There is no click at all	Relay winding is broken or there is no power	Check fuses, ignition switch

4. Starter: wear of brushes, armature and bendix

If the solenoid relay is working properly, but the starter still does not turn, the problem lies in its internals. Most often they fail:

• 🖌️ Brushes: they wear off over time and stop pressing against the collector. Symptom - the starter turns “without force” or does not turn at all.
• 🌀 Anchor: May jam due to worn bushings or dirt. Symptom - the starter “barely” rotates even when charged battery.
• 🔗 Bendix: the overrunning clutch wears out, the gear does not cling to the flywheel. A grinding or crunching sound is heard when starting up.

For diagnostics, the starter must be removed. Take it apart and inspect:

• Brushes: if their length is shorter 5 mm, replacement is required.
• Armature commutator: should not be blackening or production.
• Bushings: armature play more 0.5 mm indicates the need for replacement.

⚠️ Attention: If, when disassembling the starter, you find melted wires or a burning smell is a sign turn-to-turn short circuit in the winding. This starter cannot be repaired, only replaced!

How to check bendix without removing the starter?

Try turning the engine manually (for example, by the crankshaft pulley with a 19mm wrench). If a metallic grinding noise is heard, the bendix does not move away from the flywheel and requires replacement.

5. Problems with wiring and ground: where to look for a break?

Even a working starter will not work if no current is supplied to it. Frequent problems:

• 🔌 Oxidized or loose terminals on battery or starter.
• 🔗 Break of "mass": Check the wire from the negative terminal to the body and engine.
• 🔥 Burnt fuses: the starter circuit usually has a fuse at 30–50 A (see diagram for your model).
• 🔑 Faulty ignition switch: the contact group could burn out.

How to check:

1. Take control lamp or multimeter.
2. With the ignition on, check the voltage at control wire solenoid relay (thin wire). Must be 12 V.
3. If there is no voltage, the problem is ignition switch or fuse.

To check the "mass":

1. Disconnect the negative terminal battery.
2. Clean the places where the ground wire is attached to the body and engine.
3. Reconnect the terminal and try to start the car.

6. Other reasons: from alarm to engine wedge

If all previous checks fail, consider less obvious reasons:

• 🚨 Immobilizer or alarm: Some systems block startup on failure (for example, StarLine or Pandora). Try disabling the alarm or using a spare key.
• 🔧 Jammed engine: if the crankshaft does not rotate (for example, due to water hammer or a broken timing belt), the starter will click, but will not be able to crank the engine.
• ⚡ Faulty generator: if it doesn't charge battery, the battery drains quickly. Check the voltage at the terminals with the engine running - there should be 13.8–14.4 V.

How to eliminate engine wedge:

1. Put the car in neutral.
2. Try to manually turn the crankshaft by turning the pulley with a key or (on front-wheel drive cars) by hanging one wheel and engaging 5th gear.
3. If the crankshaft does not rotate - do not try to start the car any further! This can lead to serious damage (for example, the timing belt breaks and the pistons hit the valves).

7. What to do right now: step-by-step algorithm

If you need to start your car urgently, follow this plan:

If all else fails:

1. Remove the starter and take it for inspection (in most services this is free).
2. Check battery loading fork - perhaps one of the cans is “dead”.
3. Please note starter fuse (usually F10 or F20 in the block under the hood).

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about “kyt-kyt” at startup

Is it possible to drive if the starter clicks, but the car starts after 5–10 attempts?

No, it's dangerous! Each click of the solenoid relay is contact sparking, which accelerates their wear. In addition, repeated startup attempts drain the battery and can lead to starter overheating. If the problem recurs, diagnose and correct the cause immediately.

The starter only clicks when cold. What's the matter?

This is a typical sign brush wear or thickened oil in the engine. When the starter is cold, it requires more effort to crank the crankshaft. Try:

1. Fill synthetic oil with low temperature viscosity (for example, 5W-30).
2. Check the starter brushes - their wear increases at low temperatures.

After replacing the battery, the starter still clicks. What to do?

Probably a new battery doesn't have time to charge from the generator or is leakage current. Check:

• The voltage at the terminals when the engine is running (should be 13.8–14.4 V).
• Leakage current: disconnect all consumers, remove the terminal and connect ammeter between the terminal and the wire. Norm - up to 50 mA.

Can I repair the starter myself?

Yes if you have screwdriver set, soldering iron and multimeter. Most common repairs:

• Replacing brushes (cost 200–500 ₽).
• Cleaning the solenoid relay contacts.
• Replacing bendix (800–1500 ₽).

Things are more complicated with rewinding the armature or replacing bushings — you can’t do without experience here. In such cases it is cheaper to buy contract starter (from 3000 ₽).

How much does it cost to repair a starter?

Prices depend on the malfunction and car model:

Service	Cost (₽)
Starter diagnostics	500–1000
Replacing the solenoid relay	1500–2500
Replacing brushes	1000–2000
Anchor repair (replacement of bushings)	2500–4000
Complete starter replacement (used)	3000–8000

For foreign cars (Toyota, VW, Ford) prices are 20–30% higher due to the high cost of spare parts.