Making a functional and durable cauldron stove from old car wheels is the perfect way to give scrap metal a second life. This design does not require the purchase of expensive materials, since the basis is junk parts that often lie idle in the garage. Brazier under the cauldron made of discs has excellent heat resistance and wind protection, which makes it an indispensable attribute for a summer house or country house.
The creation process requires a minimum set of tools and basic skills in working with metal, and the result surpasses many store-bought analogues in reliability. Unlike thin-walled commercial roasters, thick steel discs do not burn out for years and hold the temperature perfectly. Let's look at all the stages of work so that you can assemble this useful tool yourself. auto accessory for culinary experiments.
Selecting suitable discs and preparing materials
The first and most important step is the correct choice of source material, since not all disks are equally suitable for creating a furnace. The ideal option is stamped steel wheels from passenger cars with a diameter of R13-R16, since their size is optimal for standard cauldrons with a volume of 5-12 liters. It is not recommended to use cast wheels, since with strong heating and subsequent sudden cooling (for example, when water gets in), the aluminum alloy can crack or deform.
To make a full-fledged structure, you will need two identical disks, which will serve as a combustion chamber and a wind shield. It is also necessary to prepare a metal pipe or profile for the legs to ensure a stable position of the stove on the ground. Metal thickness in stamped discs it is usually 3-5 mm, which is the optimal indicator for uniform heating and long-term heat retention.
Before starting work, the parts must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint, rust and remnants of balancing weights. This can be done using a grinder with a grinding wheel or sandblasting, which will provide better quality welds. It is important to check the geometry of the discs: if they are heavily dented or have deep cracks, they may be unsafe to use.
⚠️ Attention: Never use disks in which fuels and lubricants or chemicals were previously stored to make barbecues, without preliminary and thorough calcination, as the remaining substances can release toxic fumes when heated.
Required tools and design drawings
To implement the project, you will need a standard set of welder and mechanic, which can be found in most garages. The main tool will be an angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs, since you will have to make a lot of precise cuts and clean up edges. Also required welding machine (inverter or semi-automatic), since the connection of the elements requires a strong weld that can withstand thermal loads.
As auxiliary equipment, be sure to use clamps to secure parts during the welding process, as well as a tape measure, square and chalk for marking. The design drawing can be drawn by hand, but it is important to decide in advance on the height of the legs and the diameter of the hole for the cauldron. The standard height of the finished product is 70-80 cm, which is comfortable for working while standing.
Below is a table with an approximate list of materials and tools required to assemble one barbecue:
| Component | Characteristics | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Car disk | Stamped, R14-R15 | 2 pcs. |
| Leg tube | Profile 40x40 mm or round | 3-4 meters |
| Armature | Diameter 10-12 mm (for grate bars) | 3-4 meters |
| Electrodes | Diameter 3 mm (SSSI or analogues) | 1 pack |
Technology of cutting and preparation of parts
The preparation process begins by marking the cutting line on one of the disks, which will serve as the upper part (seat for the cauldron). It is necessary to step back from the top edge of about 10-12 cm and draw an even line around the circumference to cut off the upper part of the rim. This action will form a rim that will hold the cauldron and direct the heat.
When working with an angle grinder, it is important to follow safety precautions and use safety glasses, as sparks and metal shavings fly in all directions. You need to cut slowly, without putting too much pressure on the disc, so that the metal does not overheat and bite the tool. After cutting off the excess part, the edges should be thoroughly cleaned with a flap wheel to remove burrs and level the end.
The second disk, which will become the lower part of the firebox, is usually left intact or holes are cut in its lower part for air supply (blower). You can cut segments at the bottom of the rim or drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm around the circumference. Air circulation at the bottom is critical for burning wood and creating draft.
The nuances of cutting thick metal
When cutting thick stamped discs, the grinder disc may jam. To avoid this, do not make a through cut in one pass, but gradually go deeper, turning the part. You can also use the technique of "punching" the cutting line at a shallow depth around the entire circumference before making the final cut.
Welding the body and creating a combustion chamber
Assembling the case begins with connecting two disks to each other. To do this, the prepared disks are aligned with their ends and secured by welding at several points in a circle. After checking the verticality and absence of distortions, the seam is completely welded on both sides (outside and inside) to ensure the tightness of the firebox.
Inside the resulting structure, it is necessary to install a grate that will separate the combustion zone from the ash pan. To do this, rods of the required length are cut from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm and welded to the inner walls of the lower disk at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bottom. The gap between the rods should be 1.5-2 cm for free ash spillage.
The legs are welded to the bottom of the structure. If a profile pipe is used, it can be welded directly to the disc rim or additional reinforcement can be made in the form of a square. High legs make operation more convenient, allowing you to avoid bending too low while cooking. Welded joints The legs with the body must be especially strong, since they bear the weight of the entire structure and the dishes with food.
☑️ Welding quality control
Installation of the blower and firebox door
To adjust the burning intensity and ease of loading firewood, it is necessary to cut a rectangular hole in the front part of the combustion chamber. A door is made from a cut piece of metal and is attached to hinges. The size of the hole should be sufficient for free loading of logs, but not too large so as not to disrupt traction.
The door can be equipped with a simple latch or hook to secure it in the closed position. The presence of a door allows you to turn the grill into a full-fledged oven, where you can regulate the air flow and maintain the heat for simmering dishes. In the lower part, under the grate, you can also make a small hole-ash pit for removing coals.
Some craftsmen additionally weld a small chimney pipe on the side to divert smoke to the side, but for open installation on the street this is not always necessary. The main thing is to ensure a sufficient flow of oxygen from below and the release of combustion products from above, around the cauldron.
⚠️ Attention: When welding the door and hinges, use electrodes with a diameter of at least 3 mm and weld the seams with a margin of strength, since constant heating and cooling creates thermal stress in the metal.
Finishing and first use
After completing all welding work, the structure must be cleaned of slag, scale and rust. To give an aesthetic appearance and protect against corrosion, the grill should be painted with heat-resistant metal paint that can withstand temperatures up to 600-800 degrees. In this case, ordinary paint will quickly burn and begin to peel, so choose specialized compositions in aerosols or cans.
The first use (calcination) is best done outdoors, loading the firebox full of wood and letting it burn out completely. This will allow you to burn off any remaining oil, paint and process contaminants, and also test the strength of the seams in real heat. After cooling, a durable oxide layer forms on the metal, protecting it from rust.
To protect against rust without using chemical paint, you can use the bluing method: generously grease the heated grill with vegetable oil and let it burn out. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times to create a black protective layer.
The finished grill for a cauldron made from disks is ready for use. It has a high heat capacity: thick walls retain heat for a long time, which is ideal for preparing pilaf, shurpa or other oriental dishes. With proper care, such a stove will last for decades without requiring complex maintenance.
The key advantage of a disc grill is the use of a ready-made cylindrical shape, which is ideal for a cauldron and ensures uniform heat distribution on all sides.
What disk size is best for an 8-10 liter cauldron?
For a cauldron with a volume of 8-10 liters, discs with a diameter of R14 or R15 are optimal. They have a sufficient internal diameter for the cauldron to extend approximately two-thirds of its height, providing effective heating of the walls. The R13 disk may be too small, and the R16 will require a more careful selection of the installation height.
Do I need to cut off the inner center hole of the disc?
No, cutting off the central hole (hub) is not necessary and even harmful. This hole serves as a natural and very convenient ash pit, through which ash is poured out and primary combustion air enters. If the hole is too small, you can slightly widen it with a grinder, but you should not completely seal it or remove the center.
Can this grill be used as a barbecue with a grate?
Yes, the design is universal. To use it as a barbecue, it is enough to make or purchase a metal grate of a suitable diameter, which will be installed on the upper rim instead of the cauldron. The thick walls of the disc will create a tandoor effect, allowing you to fry meat with less smoke.
How often do you need to clean such a grill from ash?
It is advisable to remove the ash from the lower compartment (central hole) after each use so that it does not interfere with the air flow during the next ignition. However, if you are cooking for several days in a row, you can remove the ash as it accumulates, making sure that it does not completely block the vent.