DIY barbecue made from wheel rims: 5 steps to the perfect design

A homemade barbecue made from wheel rims is not only a way to save money on purchasing a finished product, but also an opportunity to create a unique item that is ideally suited to your needs. Old cast or stamped wheels, which many throw away after replacement, become excellent raw materials for a durable and functional barbecue. The main advantage of this design is high heat transfer thanks to the metal and original design that makes your grill stand out from its factory counterparts.

In this article we will analyze all the stages - from selecting disks to final processing, and will pay attention to the nuances of welding and corrosion protection. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes, for example, why some barbecues burn out within a season, as well as how to modify the design for different types of frying. We will pay special attention to safety: proper fastening of the legs, choice of paint and organization of traction.

If you already have old disks from R14 up to R17, you are halfway to success. Even a novice craftsman can cope with the task in a weekend, having at hand an angle grinder, a welding machine and a minimal set of tools. And if you don’t have any wheels, it doesn’t matter: you can buy them at scrap shops for pennies or negotiate at a tire shop to get “scrap” for free.

But before you start, answer yourself a key question: what kind of grill do you need? Compact for trips to nature, stationary for a summer house with a roof and chimney, or universal with an adjustable grate height? The choice of disks, their number and design features depend on this.

1. Selecting rims: which ones are best?

Not all discs are equally good for barbecuing. Main selection criteria: metal thickness, diameter and material. The best option is alloy wheels from cars (R15-R17), since they are thicker than stamped ones and retain their shape longer when heated. Stamped discs (R13-R14) are also suitable, but they will have to be reinforced with additional stiffening ribs or used in a double layer.

Pay attention to the disk status:

• 🔹 No cracks — even minor damage under heat can lead to deformation.
• 🔹 Minimal corrosion — rust weakens the metal, and it is difficult to clean it before welding.
• 🔹 Rim plane — if the disk is a figure eight, it will have to be straightened.

The best donors for the barbecue - discs from VAZ 2108-2115, Toyota Corolla, Ford Focus or Renault Logan. They are common, often found in sales at a price of 200–500 rubles apiece. Avoid truck or SUV rims - they are too heavy and difficult to transport.

If you are planning a grill with a lid, you will need two disks of the same diameter. For an open structure, one will be enough, but then you will have to make a separate grid from reinforcement or buy a ready-made one.

2. Tools and materials: complete checklist

To avoid being distracted by searching while working, prepare everything in advance. Here is the minimum set:

If you have no experience in welding, you can do without it by using bolts and nuts, but this design will be less durable. A hacksaw is also suitable for cutting metal, but a grinder will save hours of work. Choose heat-resistant paint based on silicone resins - it will not burn or release toxic substances when heated.

For legs, it is better to take square pipes - they are more stable than round ones. The length depends on height: the optimal height of the barbecue is 70–90 cm. If you are planning a portable version, weld handles from the same fittings to the legs.

⚠️ Attention: Do not use galvanized pipes or bars for gratings! When heated, zinc releases toxic fumes that can get into food.

3. Preparation of discs: cutting and cleaning

The first stage is removing everything unnecessary. Using a grinder, cut off the central part of the disk (hub), leaving only the rim. If the disc is cast, first mark the cutting line with a marker. For stamped rims, you can use a chisel and hammer to separate the rim from the spider.

Next, clean the places of cuts and future seams:

1. Remove old paint and rust with a wire brush or flap wheel.
2. Sand the edges with sandpaper (P80–P120) for better penetration.
3. Degrease the surface with acetone or solvent.

If you are making a grill with a lid, leave the central part on one of the disks - it will serve as the basis for attaching the loop. For an open design, you can cut out “windows” in the rim for better traction (but not more than 30% of the area, otherwise the heat will go away too quickly).

How to cut a disc without sparks and noise?

If you are working in an apartment or garage with adjacent boxes, wrap the disc with a wet cloth around the cutting line. This will reduce sparks by 70%. You can also use special silent cutting wheels for an angle grinder - they cut more slowly, but with almost no sparks.

4. Assembling the structure: welding and fastening the legs

The most important stage is connecting the parts. If you have two disks (for a barbecue with a lid), first tack them together at 3-4 points, then weld the seam completely. For an open grill, one disk is enough, but then you need to weld a grid of rods to it (fittings A3 Ø8–10 mm) in increments of 2–3 cm.

The legs are attached as follows:

• 🔧 Weld “heels” from pieces of metal to the square pipes for stability.
• 🔧 Attach the legs to the disc at an angle of 5-10° outward - this will prevent it from tipping over.
• 🔧 To adjust the height, make holes in the legs and use cotter pins.

If there is no welding machine, the legs can be bolted M8–M10, but then the grill will be less stable. In this case, use bushings and locknuts to prevent the mount from loosening due to vibration.

Grill type	Number of disks	Leg metal thickness	Build time
Open (without cover)	1	3–4 mm	2–3 hours
With lid	2	4–5 mm	4–5 hours
With adjustable grid	1 + fittings	4 mm	5–6 hours
Stationary with chimney	2 + pipe Ø100 mm	5 mm	6–8 hours

⚠️ Attention: When welding alloy wheels, use rutile-coated electrodes (MR-3 or OZS-12). They produce less splashes and cook aluminum alloys better. Make the seam with short stitches so as not to overheat the metal.

5. Corrosion protection and finishing

Bare metal will quickly rust, especially if the grill is placed outside. For protection use heat resistant paint based on organosilicon (for example, Certa, Bosny or Kudo). She stands up to 800°C and does not crack due to temperature changes.

Painting order:

1. Apply a primer suitable for ferrous metals (e.g. GF-021).
2. After drying, paint the grill in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 15-20 minutes.
3. The interior can be treated for added protection heat-resistant varnish (for example, KO-85).

If you want to give your barbecue an aesthetic look, use paint with a “hammer metal” or “black matte” effect. For ease of transportation, weld handles made of steel tape or chains to the legs.

6. Modifications and improvements: making the grill universal

The basic disc design is functional, but it can be modified to suit your needs. Here are some upgrade ideas:

Adjustable grid. Weld the guides from the corner to the inner walls of the disk, and the hooks to the grille. This will allow you to change the height above the coal depending on the type of meat (for barbecue - higher, for steaks - lower).

Chimney. If the grill will be under a canopy, weld a pipe to the lid Ø100–120 mm and bring it up. This will increase draft and reduce smoke.

Ash tray. Attach a removable galvanized box to the bottom - it will be easy to clean after use.

Cover-frying pan. Make a convex lid from the second disk, and secure a cast-iron frying pan inside. It turns out to be a universal device for frying, stewing and smoking.

For smoked meat lovers, you can add smoking chamber: weld a vertical pipe with hooks to the grill, and install a sawdust tray at the bottom. This design allows you to cook “cold smoked” fish or sausages at a temperature of 40–60°C.

7. Rules for operation and care of the barbecue

To ensure your grill lasts for many years, follow these simple recommendations:

• 🔥 Light the coals only with special liquids or dry alcohol. Gasoline and kerosene produce harmful fumes.
• 🧹 Clean the grill after each use with a wire brush. Do not use detergents - they burn through and spoil the taste of food.
• 🌧️ Store the grill in a dry place or cover with a tarp. heat-resistant paint, constant moisture shortens service life.
• 🔧 Check welds once a season. If cracks appear, clean them and weld them again.

If the grill is rarely used, treat it before long-term storage preservative oil (for example, WD-40) or lubricate the inside with vegetable oil - this will protect against rust.

⚠️ Attention: Never extinguish coals with water directly in the grill! A sharp temperature change deforms the metal, and steam can burn. Use sand or close the lid, cutting off oxygen access.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it possible to make a barbecue from aluminum disks?

No, aluminum melts at a temperature of 660°C, and the coals in a barbecue heat up to 800–1000°C. Even if the disc does not melt, it will become deformed and become unusable. The exception is discs from aluminum alloys with high silicon content (for example, AK12), but they are difficult to distinguish visually, and they are still less durable than steel.

What disc diameter is best to choose for a barbecue for 6–8 people?

The best option is disks R16–R17 (diameter 40–43 cm). They provide enough surface area to cook 10-12 skewers evenly. Discs R14–R15 suitable for a company of 4 people, and R18 and above - for large picnics (but they are more difficult to transport).

Should the grill be sealed or leave gaps?

Gaps are required! A completely sealed grill will have difficulty igniting due to lack of oxygen, and the food may taste burnt. It is optimal to leave 2–3 mm gaps between the lid and the base or drill holes in the bottom Ø5–10 mm for traction. If the grill smokes too much, reduce the gaps to 1 mm.

What is the difference between a grill made from a cast and a stamped disc?

Cast wheels are stronger and hold their shape longer, but are more difficult to cut and weld due to the thick metal. Stamped ones are easier to process, but burn out faster (service life - 2-3 seasons versus 5-7 for cast ones). If you choose stamping, take discs with double rim - they are thicker than standard ones.

Is it possible to paint a barbecue with regular spray paint?

Absolutely not! When heated, ordinary paint releases toxic substances (formaldehyde, benzene) and burns, spoiling the taste of food. Use only heat-resistant compounds marked "up to 600°C and above". To save money, you can paint only the outer part of the grill, and treat the inside heat-resistant varnish.