The idea of turning a used car wheel into a functional element of a summer cottage is not new, but barbecues made from wheel rims remain at the top of DIY projects due to their reliability and availability of materials. Unlike thin-walled store-bought analogues, a passenger car disk is made of stamped steel 2-3 mm thick, which ensures a long service life even with regular heating.
This hearth fits perfectly into the concept of garage aesthetics and requires minimal investment if you already have an unnecessary set of winter tires. The main advantage is that you do not need to find thick sheet metal and bend it, the shape is already set by the manufacturer.
However, despite its apparent simplicity, the design has its own characteristics, ignoring which can lead to rapid burning of the bottom or deformation of the sides. In this article we will analyze all the stages of creating a durable barbecue, starting from the selection of the workpiece and ending with the final painting with a heat-resistant composition.
Selection and preparation of starting material
The first step is to find a suitable donor. For the stationary option, stamped wheels from classic VAZs or old foreign cars with a diameter of R13-R15 are best suited. It is not recommended to use light-alloy wheels, since when exposed to strong heat, the aluminum alloy can lose strength or melt, and also emit harmful fumes.
You need to carefully inspect the workpiece for deep corrosion, especially in the area of the bore and rim. If rust has eaten through the metal, this material will not work - the bottom of the grill will simply fall out after the first three kindlings. Light surface deposits can be easily removed by sandblasting or metal brushing.
⚠️ Attention: Absolutely do not use truck wheels with tube tires for barbecues if you are not sure of the alloy composition, as some older models could be coated with toxic compounds that burn out at high temperatures.
Before starting welding work, be sure to remove any remaining old paint, bitumen mastics and rubber balancers. This can be done using a grinder with a petal disc or a chemical remover. Pure metal will ensure better weld penetration and the absence of acrid smoke during the initial heating of the product.
Necessary tools and consumables
To implement the project, you will need a standard DIY kit. The main tool will be an angle grinder (grinder) with metal discs 1-1.2 mm thick. The thin blade allows for smooth cuts with minimal material loss and less edge heating.
Welding work is best performed semi-automatically (MIG/MAG) in a shielding gas environment, as it gives a more accurate seam and is less likely to burn through the thin bottom of the disk. If only an inverter for manual arc welding (MMA) is available, use electrodes with a diameter of 2 mm or 2.5 mm at the lowest possible current.
- 🔨 Hammer and core for marking holes for legs and air ducts.
- 📏 Tape measure and metal ruler for precise positioning of elements.
- 🛡️ Protective glasses and gloves - sparks from grinding fly in all directions.
- 🎨 Heat-resistant paint (black or silver) for finishing.
Don't forget to prepare personal protective equipment. When cutting an old blade, metal dust often rises, which should not enter the lungs. A respirator or at least a thick gauze bandage is required when working in a closed garage.
⚠️ Attention: When cutting a disc with a grinder, be sure to remove the shafts from the wheel if they are still installed, as vibration can damage the threads or the tool itself.
Disc cutting and modification technology
The most time-consuming part of the process is shaping the disc into a barbecue shape. The standard disk has a convex bottom and a high side, which is inconvenient for placing skewers. Our task is to cut off the excess, leaving only a functional bowl.
First you need to cut off the top part of the disk (the mating plane that is attached to the hub). This is done in a circle, stepping back from the top edge of the side by about 3-4 cm. As a result, you will be left with a ring-rim and a central part that will need to be modified.
Next we work with the bottom. For good air draft, a hole with a diameter of 10-15 cm is cut in the center of the bottom. This will be the main oxygen supply channel. If you plan to use the grill as a fireplace for a cauldron, the central hole can be made larger or left as is by installing a tripod on top.
Sequence of cuts:1. Mark the cut line for the top (parallel to the top edge).
2. Make a neat cut in a circle.
3. Cut a central hole in the bottom (diameter 100-150 mm).
4. Cut additional holes around the perimeter of the bottom for drainage and traction.
Along the perimeter of the bottom, moving 2-3 cm from the edge, it is necessary to drill or cut a series of holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm. They serve to drain water after rain and create additional traction. You should not make holes that are too large, otherwise the coals will fall down.
Does the bottom need to be reinforced?
If the metal of the disk is very thin (less than 2 mm) or has traces of corrosion, the bottom can be strengthened. To do this, weld two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm crosswise on the inside. This will prevent deformation when heated.
Manufacturing and installation of legs
The height of the barbecue is a critical ergonomic parameter. The optimal height is 70-80 cm from the ground to the top edge of the side. This allows you to work without bending too low. The legs can be made from a profile pipe 20x20 mm or 25x25 mm, as well as from corners.
There are two main ways to attach supports. The first is to weld the legs directly to the outside of the disc rim. The second, more aesthetic, involves using the central part of the disk (which we cut off earlier) as a transition element to which the legs are already attached.
If you choose a rim-welded option, make sure the mounting points are symmetrical. Four legs provide better stability on uneven ground than three. It is better to equip the lower ends of the legs with nickels made of a metal plate so that the grill does not fall into soft ground or grass.
☑️ Checking the stability of the structure
To add rigidity to the structure, the legs can be connected to each other with jumpers from the same profile pipe at a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. This will not only stabilize the grill, but also create a shelf on which you can place a dish of meat or a bottle of oil.
Air supply system and draft
High-quality combustion of coals is impossible without proper airflow. Unlike simple iron boxes, a disc grill has a natural rounded shape, which promotes swirling air flow, but this may not be enough for quick ignition.
In the side of the rim, closer to the bottom, it is recommended to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 10 mm. They will work like a blower, regulating the intensity of combustion. By closing them with a damper (for example, a piece of metal on a bolt), you can simmer meat or, conversely, quickly light a fire.
| Hole type | Diameter (mm) | Location | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Central | 100-150 | Bottom center | Main draft / installation of the cauldron |
| Peripheral | 10-15 | In a circle at the edge of the bottom | Drainage and extra traction |
| Lateral | 10 | At the bottom of the side | Intensity adjustment (blower) |
Some craftsmen make a removable bottom. To do this, a corner is welded along the inner perimeter on which a metal sheet is placed. This simplifies cleaning the grill from ash, but complicates the design and requires more precise welding.
To improve draft in windy weather, you can weld a short pipe (10-15 cm) below the central hole, creating the effect of a chimney.
Finishing and painting
After completing all welding work and cleaning the seams, it is time to give the product a marketable appearance. Regular enamel will burn out in the first season, so the choice of coating is critical. Use specialized heat-resistant paints that can withstand heating up to 600-800 degrees.
Before painting, the surface must be degreased. Acetone or solvent 646 is ideal. It is better to apply the paint in 2-3 thin layers with intermediate drying to avoid drips and bubbles. Matte black color looks the most stylish and hides carbon marks.
If you want to give your barbecue a unique look, you can use the artificial aging technique or apply patterns with paints of a different color. Decorative elements, such as forged handles or curly patterns on the legs, will make your grill a source of pride.
High-quality surface preparation (cleaning and degreasing) is more important than the brand of paint - even the most expensive coating will not stick to dirty metal.
After painting, let the barbecue dry for 24 hours, and then carry out the “calcination” procedure. Light a small fire using dry branches. This will finally fix the coating and remove any remaining factory solvents.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long will a grill made from R13-R15 disk last?
Provided that steel with a thickness of 2 mm or more is used and used correctly (timely cleaning of ash, storage under a canopy), such a grill will last 5-7 years or more. Thin rims from small cars can burn out faster, in 2-3 seasons.
Is it possible to use alloy wheels for barbecue?
No, it's dangerous. Cast wheels are made of aluminum alloy, which at coal combustion temperatures (up to 900-1000°C) can soften, deform, or even ignite (if it is in the alloy), releasing toxic smoke.
Do I need to make holes in the sides for the skewers?
In the classic version of the disk, the skewers are placed on top of the side. It is possible to cut grooves (with a grinder) if the side is very wide, but for a standard R13-R15 disk this is not necessary, since the width allows standard skewers to be placed firmly.
How to properly clean the grill after use?
Wait until it cools down completely. Pour the cold ash through the center hole. If there is greasy carbon on the walls, you can heat the grill again to burn off the carbon and wipe it with a dry cloth. You cannot wash a hot grill with water - the metal will deform.