The question is what exactly is it called? anchor winch, often confuses beginners in water tourism, although professionals use clear terms. In the Russian-language segment of marine equipment, the most common and technically competent name is anchor windlass. This term comes from maritime practice and refers to a horizontal shaft mechanism used to retrieve the anchor chain or rope.
However, depending on the design and purpose, the device may be called differently, for example, capstan anchor or just anchor winch. The difference lies in the location of the shaft and the method of transmitting force, which is critical when designing deck equipment. Understanding these nuances will allow you not only to select equipment correctly, but also to correctly explain your requirements to the supplier.
The choice between different types of mechanisms depends on the size of the boat, the type of bottom and the owner's budget. Modern models are equipped with electric motors or hydraulic drives, ensuring reliability even in stormy conditions. Next, we will look in detail at how different types of these devices differ and what to look for when purchasing.
Terminology and classification of anchor mechanisms
The main difference lies in the shaft design. Windlass (from Dutch bras spil) has a horizontal shaft, and the chain sprocket and cable drum (if equipped) are located on either side of the engine. This design allows the chain to wrap around the sprocket at an angle of almost 180 degrees, which provides excellent traction and prevents slipping.
Unlike him, spire (or capstan anchor) has a vertical shaft. The chain or rope is wound onto a drum located on top, and the force is transmitted through a bevel gear. Capstans are often installed on larger boats or where height space needs to be saved since the engine is usually hidden below deck.
There is also a concept anchor winch as a general term that in everyday speech is often applied to all types of devices. However, if you are looking for a device for a small boat, you will most likely be offered a horizontal windlass with an electric drive.
- 🚢 Windlass — horizontal shaft, ideal for chains, compact in height.
- ⚓ Spire — vertical shaft, better suited for large diameter cables and heavy anchors.
- ⚙️ Combined mechanism - combines a sprocket for the chain and a smooth drum for the mooring end.
It is important to note that for marine pleasure boats it is most often used horizontal windlass. Its design is easier to maintain, and installation on the deck does not require a deep niche, as is the case with a capstan. This makes it the preferred choice for fiberglass enclosures.
⚠️ Attention: Never use the winch to lift people or loads not intended for the anchor system. The design of the sprockets is designed exclusively for a calibrated anchor chain or a special cable.
Design features and operating principle
The heart of any windlass is gearbox. It is he who converts the high speed of rotation of the electric motor into a powerful traction force necessary for lifting a heavy anchor from a depth. The quality of the gear drive directly affects the durability of the entire device and its ability to withstand jerky loads.
The key element in contact with the circuit is asterisk (or chain head). It should perfectly match the gauge of your anchor chain. Using the wrong size sprocket (for example, a metric chain on an inch sprocket) will cause rapid wear and, worse, the armature slipping or jamming at a critical moment.
In modern models it is often used friction brake, which holds the anchor suspended or when pickling. The brake is controlled manually or automatically, depending on the model. Some advanced systems are equipped with load sensors that prevent the motor from overheating.
How does the automatic stop system work?
Automatic stop (Auto-stop) is triggered when the anchor reaches the stop (the fairlead). A pressure sensor or limit switch opens the power circuit, preventing the anchor from wrapping around the windlass and breaking the circuit. This is a critical feature for solo sailing.
The materials used also play a role. Housings are made from marine aluminum or stainless steel, and gearbox gears are often made from bronze or high-strength coated steel. Electromagnetic contactor provides power to the motor, protecting the control button on the remote control from high currents.
| Parameter | Windlass (Horizontal) | Spire (Vertical) | Hand winch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shaft location | Horizontally | Vertical | Horizontal/Vertical |
| Installation | On deck (minimum depth) | Requires niche below deck | Removable or stationary |
| Application | Boats, yachts up to 20m | Large yachts, ships | Small boats, reserve |
| Sampling speed | High (20-30 m/min) | Medium/High | Low (depends on strength) |
Selection criteria: power and traction
The main parameter when choosing is workload (Working Load). It is calculated based on the weight of your anchor, the length of the chain and the depth of the water area where you plan to anchor. The rule says: the traction force of the winch should be at least 3-4 times the weight of the anchor in the air, but taking into account hydrodynamic resistance and dirt at the bottom, the reserve should be even greater.
The second important factor is sampling speed. For small boats, 15-20 meters per minute is sufficient. If you have a large boat and a long chain, the slow speed will make the anchoring process tedious. However, too high a speed can cause the anchor to hit the fairlead, so having a variable speed or soft start is a plus.
Don't forget about the on-board voltage. Most small and medium windlass are powered by 12 Volt, but powerful models (from 1000 Watts and above) often require 24 Volt. Installing a 24-volt motor on a 12-volt network without a converter is impossible, and running a 12-volt motor on 24 volts will instantly burn out the windings.
- ⚡ Starting current — keep in mind that at the moment of start the motor consumes current 3-5 times higher than the rated current. The wiring must be of the appropriate cross-section.
- 🔋 Battery capacity — the anchor winch quickly drains the battery. It is recommended to have a separate traction battery or a powerful starting battery.
- 🌊 IP protection - for an open deck, look for a rating of at least IP67 so that salt water does not destroy the electrics.
When calculating chain length, use the rule "1 in 5" or "1 in 7" from depth. The winch must have a drum capacity large enough to accommodate the entire length of your chain or cable.
Electrical and operational safety
Connection anchor winch - this is working with high currents. Basic rule: the control button (remote control) should not directly switch the motor current. Must be installed between the button and the motor power relay (contactor), which closes the power circuit. This protects the remote control from burning and ensures operator safety.
The cable cross-section is selected strictly according to the tables depending on the length of the route and the current consumed. If the cable is too thin, a voltage drop will occur, the motor will not produce its rated power and may burn out from overheating. All connections must be carefully sealed and protected from oxidation.
Pay special attention to overload protection. The power circuit must have a circuit breaker or fuse designed for the maximum motor current. This will save the ship from fire if the mechanism jams.
⚠️ Attention: Do not attempt to retrieve the anchor by motoring the boat forward if the anchor is stuck on the bottom. This creates an enormous load on the windlass and can lead to the destruction of the gearbox or shearing of the studs. Use winch pull only.
Regular electrical maintenance includes checking contacts, cleaning terminals, and lubricating moving parts with a special compound for marine use. Lithium grease not suitable here, as it is washed out with water; Use only specialized marine grease.
☑️ Pre-season check
Installation and deck mounting
Installation windlass requires preparation of the seat. The deck must be reinforced at the installation site to withstand the stresses of anchor jerks. Usually installed under the winch podium or a reinforced stainless steel or aluminum plate that distributes the load over a larger area.
It is important to ensure the correct angle of chain exit from the fairlead to the sprocket. The chain should lie on the sprocket smoothly, without distortion. If the chain entry angle is too sharp or blunt, the chain will chew, fly off, or get stuck. Additional ones are often used to adjust the angle. guide rollers.
Fastening is carried out using stainless steel bolts (A4/A316) using locking nuts or screws. A fixing sealant must be applied under the bolt head. After installation, it is necessary to carry out a test load, checking the operation of the mechanism at idle and under tension.
For hidden cable routing inside a mast or deck, use corrugated hoses or cable ducts. This will protect the wires from chafing and make future replacement easier. Do not forget to leave access hatches for access to the bottom of the mechanism.
Maintenance and common faults
Even the most reliable anchor winch requires care. The main problem is corrosion and sand getting into the gearbox. After each trip to the sea, especially in salt water, the mechanism must be rinsed with fresh water. Periodically (once a season) it is recommended to open the gearbox, rinse out the old lubricant and apply new one.
A common problem is chain slippage. This may be caused by worn sprocket teeth or stretching of the chain itself. If the chain has stretched more than 2-3%, it must be replaced as it will begin to destroy the new sprocket. The problem may also lie in a weakened clutch.
Electrical problems are often associated with oxidation of contacts or failure of electric motor brushes. If the winch hums but does not turn, check the voltage at the motor terminals when turned on. If there is voltage, but there is no rotation, the gearbox is probably jammed or the motor is burned out.
- 🔧 Replacing brushes - a planned procedure for electric motors, prolongs the life of the device.
- 🛢️ Lubrication - use only compounds recommended by the manufacturer (usually lithium-molybdenum or special marine ones).
- 🔩 Bolt inspection — vibration during operation can weaken the fasteners, check them regularly.
Regular washing with fresh water and seasonal replacement of lubricant in the gearbox increases the service life of the anchor winch by 2-3 times.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Can an anchor winch be used for mooring?
Use a windlass for mooring not recommended, if it is not designed for this purpose structurally. Chain sprockets are not designed to work with nylon or polypropylene mooring ends - they may damage the cable. However, there are combined models with a smooth drum (wildcat and gypsy), which allow you to use both chain and cable. In any case, the pulling force of the winch when mooring must be controlled so as not to damage the deck or cleat.
What chain gauge should I choose for my winch?
The chain gauge (eg 6mm, 8mm, 10mm) must strictly match the specifications of your sprocket. European (metric) and American (inch) standards differ in pitch and rod thickness. Dynamic chain preferable to static, as it dampens jerks better. Always check the chain markings with the windlass data sheet.
Why is the winch working slowly?
Slow performance is most often caused by low voltage in the on-board network (discharged battery) or using wires of insufficient cross-section. The cause may also be wear on the motor brushes or thickened lubricant in the gearbox at low temperatures. Check the voltage directly at the motor terminals while running.
Does the anchor chain need to be lubricated?
You can lubricate the chain itself with a special lubricant to protect it from corrosion during long-term storage, but before lowering it into the water, it is better to remove excess lubricant so as not to pollute the water area. Basic lubrication is required by the winch mechanism. For the chain, it is more important to regularly wash it to remove sand and salt, which acts as an abrasive.