Recovery of the paint coating of the car is a process that requires maximum accuracy. Even a slight difference in shade can spoil the appearance of the machine, turning quality repairs into a noticeable defect. That's why. code-painting It is the only reliable way to guarantee the perfect match of tone when local painting or complete repainting of body parts.

Many car owners mistakenly rely only on the name of the color in documents or catalogs, forgetting that the same shade can be called differently from different manufacturers. Moreover, the paint of one brand can have dozens of variations depending on the year of release. A color code is a unique identifier that ties a specific enamel chemical composition to your car model in a particular year of production.

In this article, we will discuss in detail where to look for markings on different brands of machines, how to properly decipher complex designations and why the use of factory code is more important than visual comparison of a faded part with a new sample.

Where to find the paint code on the car

Finding an ID is the first and most important step. Car manufacturers place information plates (plates) or stickers with technical data in strictly defined places, however, their location varies greatly depending on the make and model.

Most often, the plate with the code is in the underhood space. You need to look at the body counter (usually the driver's side), on the partition of the engine compartment, on the inside of the trunk lid or even under the mat in the luggage compartment. In some Japanese and American models, the sticker can be located on the end of the driver's door.

If there is no plate in visible places, it is worth checking the niche of the spare wheel or the space under the flooring.

  • πŸš— European cars: often have an alphanumeric code combination on an aluminum plate in the engine compartment or on the rack.
  • πŸ‡―πŸ‡΅ Japanese stamps: Usually used on the end of the door or in the hood space, the code is often denoted as "C/TR" (Color/Trim).
  • πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ American models: The paint code may have multiple plates, often listed under the abbreviation "EXT PNT" or "BC/CC".

⚠️ Attention: Never focus on the color of the label or sticker itself! Plastic and metal under the influence of ultraviolet light fade differently than the body. Trust only the numbers and letters in the column "Color", "Paint" or "C".

πŸ“Š Where do you usually look for the paint code?
On the body rack
In the under-hood
In the trunk.
In the car's ID.

Different carmakers use their own coding systems, which often causes confusion among beginners. Understanding the Logic of Marking Toyota, BMW or VAG It will help you to quickly navigate the catalogs of enamels suppliers.

German manufacturers, such as Volkswagen, Audi and SkodaThe code is usually 3-4 characters (e.g., LY7C or LC9X) and is often applied directly to the body next to the VIN number or on a separate sticker in the spare wheel niche. U BMW and Mini The code of 3-4 characters is on the body rack or under the hood, often at the bottom of the nameplate.

Japanese manufacturers often use longer combinations. For example, Mazda The code can be two-letter or three-digit, and Honda - contain letters and numbers separated by dash. It is important not to confuse the paint code with the trim code, which is often located nearby.

For accurate determination, the following code mapping table can be used:

Make of car Location of code Signature on the plate Example of code
Toyota / Lexus Body rack / Motor compartment C/TR 040 / FH14
Volkswagen / Audi Niche spare wheel / Book service Farb-Nr. / LA LY7C / LC9X
BMW Body stand / Under the hood Paint No. 475 / A96
Ford Body stand / Under the hood EXT PNT YZ / J7
Hyundai / Kia Body rack / Motor compartment Color Code WM / 7S
What to do if the code is not readable?

If the plate is damaged or erased, the code can be found in the service book of the car (section "Body" or "Painting"). Information can also be obtained from the official dealer, calling the VIN code of the car. In extreme cases, experienced colorists can pick up enamel by computer method from a sample taken from the car (for example, from the inside of the hatch of the gas tank).

Recruitment systems and computer coloring

Even if you know the exact code, it is important to understand that the finished spray paint may not match perfectly with your car, especially if the car is already several years old. Factory enamel eventually burns out, oxidizes and changes shade. This is where the help comes in. tin-tub.

The selection process in a specialized laboratory begins with the input of the paint code into the program. The system offers a basic formula, but an experienced technologist necessarily paints (a test sample) and compares it with a car under different lighting. If necessary, micro-pigment additives are added to the base recipe to eliminate the difference.

The use of finished aerosol cans with code marking is justified only for very fresh cars (up to 1 year of operation) or for painting hidden cavities where the accuracy of the shade is not critical. For visible body elements, professional selection in grams is the only correct solution.

  • 🎨 Basic enamel: the main color, requiring mandatory coating with varnish (metallic, pearl).
  • ✨ Luck: transparent layer, protecting the color and giving gloss; its hue and hardness also affect the final look.
  • πŸ§ͺ Solvent: It is selected depending on the temperature in the paint chamber (fast, medium, slow).

Factors that affect color matching

Why can the color of the code be different visually? There are many factors that change the perception of color in the human eye and appliances. The first and foremost enemy of perfect coincidence. ultraviolet.

Under the influence of the sun, the pigments in the paint coating gradually break down. Red and blue are the fastest to burn out. If you paint a wing on a 5-year-old car, the new code paint will look brighter and more saturated than the faded side of the car. In such cases, a special adjustment (recipe) is required in the direction of dimming or changing saturation.

The second factor is the application conditions. The thickness of the layer, the pressure in the spray gun, the temperature and humidity in the chamber affect the orientation of the metal particles (in metallic materials) and the depth of color. Incorrectly diluted paint can give a shade different from the standard, even if the formula is followed perfectly.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to paint the part with "sputter" or too thick a layer in the hope of changing the shade. This will lead to defects (shaking, underdrafting) and color changes only on the surface, which will catch the eye from different angles.

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Before painting the main part, be sure to make a test coloring on a metal plate or an old part. Let it dry and compare in daylight and under artificial light.

Instructions: How to order the paint correctly

To avoid mistakes and unnecessary costs, follow a clear algorithm when ordering materials. First, you need to find and photograph the code plate. The photo must be clear so that the seller or colorist can make out all the symbols.

Next, contact the supplier or visit the selection of colors. Report the make, model, year of issue and the paint code. If you order a selection service, bring a car or removable part (gas tank cover, hatch) to compare the color.

When receiving the material, check the integrity of the package and the compliance of the label with the ordered code. If you buy the components separately (enamel, hardener, solvent), make sure they are recommended by the paint manufacturer for sharing.

β˜‘οΈ Checklist before ordering paint

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Frequent mistakes in self-selection

Self-repairing is often marred by typical errors that result in double the cost. The main one is an attempt to save on volume. Buying materials "back-to-back", you risk a shortage of mixture at the most critical moment, and to dokolorover new portion exactly in tone is almost impossible.

The second mistake is to ignore the type of paint. Many confuse acrylic enamel (2K) and base metallics (1K), which require lacquer. Buying acrylic instead of base (or vice versa) will cause the paint to either not dry or to fall in a matte spot without gloss.

They often forget about the squirrels. Applying colored enamel directly to metal or old, damaged soil is a guarantee that the paint will begin to peel off or stains will appear after a short time. Each layer in the β€œpie” coating performs its function.

  • πŸ“‰ Wrong calculation: Buying less than required leads to the problem of color transition.
  • 🌑️ Ignoring the temperature regime: The use of "summer" solvent in winter will lead to clouding of the varnish and shaking.
  • 🧹 Poor training: insufficient degreasing of the surface before painting will negate all efforts to select color.
Can I mix paint from different manufacturers?

It is not recommended to mix the basic enamel of different brands. The chemical compositions of pigments and binders can react, leading to paint curling, color change, or loss of adhesion. Only components (enamel, hardener, solvent) of one line of one manufacturer can be mixed.

How much is the diluted paint stored?

Diluted paint (a mixture of enamel with hardener) retains its properties very short-term - from 30 minutes to 2-3 hours (lifetime of the mixture). After that, irreversible chemical reactions begin in it, and it becomes unsuitable for high-quality painting. Undiluted paint in a closed jar can be stored for years.

Why does the color code not match 100%?

The factory code indicates the recipe that was relevant at the time of production of the car. Over the years of operation, the body fades. In addition, different plants-adjacents in different years could use slightly different pigments for the same code. Therefore, the final color adjustment by the technologist is mandatory.

Do I need to take a detail to select color?

Ideally, yes, especially if it is a gas tank hatch or trunk lid that is easily removed. This allows the colorist to see the color in different lighting and make the painting right on the spot. If you can not remove, the master will work with the sample fan, which increases the risk of a small error.